Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia

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Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
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                                   WITH YOUR
                                   PARK PASS

                       Welcome to the

Visitor guide        Aboriginal lands of
                    Kakadu National Park,
                      a jointly managed
                       Commonwealth
                            reserve

kakadu.gov.au
© Parks Australia
Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
II

Our land has a big story. Sometimes
we tell a little bit at a time. Come and
hear our stories, see our land. A little
bit might stay in your hearts. If you
want more, you can come back.
Jacob Nayinggul, Manilakarr clan

CONTENTS
CULTURE
1        Welcome to Country
1        Park passes
2        Map of Kakadu National Park
4        A living cultural landscape
7        The Rainbow Serpent
8        Rock art                          REGIONS
                                           30 South Alligator region
ENVIRONMENT                                32 Jabiru region
11 Biodiversity                            34 East Alligator (Erre) region
12 Crocodiles                              36 Burrungkuy
                                              
14 Landscapes and habitats                    (Nourlangie) region
                                           38 Y
                                               ellow Water
SEASONS                                       (Ngurrungurrudjba) region
17 Six seasons of Kakadu                   40 Jim Jim / Twin Falls region
20 The role of fire                        42 Mary River region

ACTIVITIES                                 INFORMATION
23       Visitor information centres       44 Itineraries
23       Arts and crafts                   45 Cultural ways
24       Ranger talks and cultural tours   46 Visitor safety
26       Bushwalking
26       Camping
27       Boating and fishing

                                                                                 © Parks Australia
                                                                            Updated March 2021
                                                                        Cover: Looking over Ubirr
Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
1

Welcome                                        THE PARK

to Country
                                               Kakadu National Park covers an enormous
                                               20,000 square-kilometres, and is listed
                                               as a UNESCO World Heritage place in
                                               recognition of its outstanding natural
                                               values and as a living cultural landscape.
Aboriginal traditional                         Aboriginal people have inhabited Kakadu
                                               continuously for more than 65,000 years,
owners welcome you to                          tracing back in time to before the last
Kakadu National Park.                          ice age. Ancient rock art showcasing
                                               long-extinct animals is combined with
We are proud and happy to share this           abundant wildlife and spectacular
special place with you. Please take the        landscapes, to deliver visitors a profound
time to look, listen, and feel the country,    and visual spiritual experience. Kakadu’s
to experience the true essence of this land.   complex ecosystem is habitat for a wide
Take care and return safely to your family     range of plant and animal species with
and friends, and share the memories and        one-third of Australia’s bird species found
stories you will learn.                        within the park.
                                               ‘Kakadu’ comes from Gagudju language,
PARK PASSES                                    which is one of the languages spoken in
Visitors are required to purchase a park       the north of the park and was established
pass to enter Kakadu National Park.            at the beginning of the twentieth century.
                                               Other languages used in the park today
The pass includes entry to the park, ranger
                                               include Kunwinjku and Kundjeyhmi.
guided activities, and information. By
purchasing a park pass, you contribute
                                               1 Enjoy sunsets
to the management of Kakadu and this             at Nawurlandja.
helps us maintain tourism services               Credit: Tourism NT

and infrastructure. A large portion of
this money goes to Kakadu’s Bininj/                   1

Mungguy traditional owners, supporting
their homelands, training, and business
development. Northern Territory residents
with proof of residency do not require
a park pass, however checks take place
throughout the park penalties apply for
non-compliance.

  Purchase your park pass online, or
  from the Bowali Visitor Centre, and
  other locations on arrival.
  For more information visit kakadu.gov.au
Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
Darwin
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Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
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   NA T I O N AL P AR K                                                                                                          SPRING)                           Kakadu National Park                                                                                                                          KARNAMARR
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                                                                                                                                                                            NITMILUK (KATHERINE GORGE) NATIONAL PARK

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                                                                                                     Principal location                                                         Kakadu park pass sales                                               Camping (fees apply, box)
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                                                                                                     Sealed road                                                                Information                                                          Camping (free)
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                                                                                                     Unsealed 2WD (may only be 4WD accessible during wet season)
                                                                                                                                                                                Rock art site                                                        Caravan site
                                                                                                     Unsealed 2WD (closed during wet season)
                                                                                                     4WD (closed during wet season)                                             Bird watching                                                        Emergency call device
                                                                                                     Railway
                                                                                                                                Eleva on                                        Lookout                                                              Telephone
                                                                                                     Wetland                           High : 555 metres
                                                                                                     Waterbody                                                                  Boat ramp                                                            Fuel (Diesel & Opal fuel only)
                                                                                                                                       Low : 0 metres
                                                                                                                                                                                Scenic flights                                                       Toilets
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            3

                                                                                                                                                                                Commercial accomodation
                                                                                            Crocodiles inhabit Kakadu’s waterways.                                                                                                                   Sewage dump point
                                                                                                                                                                                (fees and facilities vary)
                                                                                            Stay alert near all bodies of water, and
                                                                                            obey all signs.                                                                     Camping (fees apply, collected)                                      Wheelchair access
Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
4    CULTURE

A living cultural
landscape
Kakadu is a living cultural landscape.
Generations of Bininj/Mungguy have
lived on and cared for this country for
tens of thousands of years. Their spiritual
connection with the land is globally
recognised in Kakadu’s World Heritage                                                          1

listing, which honours one of the oldest
living societies on earth.
Language, ceremonies, kinship and caring
for country are all aspects of cultural
responsibility that have passed from one                                            2

generation to the next since the creation
of time.
Bininj/Mungguy believe that during the
creation time important ancestral beings,
known as the first people or Nayuhyungki,
journeyed across the landscape creating
the features and landforms, plants,
animals, and generations of Bininj/           1 Modern art uses
                                                both acrylic and
Mungguy who are living here today.              ochre paints.
                                                Credit: Tourism NT
The land and its people have always           2 Ancient rock art
                                                tells the cultural
been linked. Discover more about the            stories such
local traditions and culture at the             as Namarrkon
                                                (Lightning man)
Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre          3 Traditional Owner
(see page 23).                                  Connie Nayinggul

The Aboriginal people of Kakadu are
known as Bininj/Mungguy. Bininj
(pronounced Bining) is a Kunwinjku and        People need to come here and relax, sit on
Kundjeyhmi word; Mungguy (pronounced          the country, feel the spirits of this country,
Moong-gooy) is a Jawoyn word. Both are        and go home and feel the same way.
similar to the English word 'man' and,        Natasha Nadji, Bunidj clan

depending on the context, can mean
man, male, person, or Aboriginal people.
Balanda means non-Aboriginal people.
Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
5

3
Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
6       CULTURE

4 Artwork
  by Abel
  Naborlhborlh
Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
7

Rainbow
Serpent
The Rainbow Serpent is a
major creator being.
She created passages through rocks
and formed waterholes in the Kakadu
landscape. She split rock faces and created
ranges of hills, helping form the habitat
for all beings.
Rainbow Serpent is a powerful ancestor,                                         1

known by many Aboriginal groups
throughout Australia. Rainbow Serpent
played an important role in the conception
of Bininj/Mungguy and their cultural
obligations to care for country. She is also                            2

part of the lifecycle of plants and animals,
and the seasonal changes.
The many stories and sites associated with
the Rainbow Serpent are often linked to
water and places where she travelled across
country, leaving behind features in the
landscape. Bininj/Mungguy believe she                                           3
is still present today, resting, and should
never be disturbed.                            1 Rainbow Serpent
                                                 rock art at Ubirr
Along with the Rainbow Serpent,                2 Artwork by Gershom
creation ancestors came in many                  Garingarr

different forms. Other important               3 Kakadu National Park
                                                 logo artwork by
beings include Bula (Jawoyn Ancestor),           Gabriel Maralngurra

Namarrkon (Lightning Man), and
Warramurrungundji (Earth Mother).
In Kakadu region alone, Rainbow Serpent
has many different language names. In
the north she is known in Kundjeyhmi as
Almudj, and in Kunwinjku she is Ngalyod.
In Gagudju, Rainbow Serpent is referred
to as Nama’rdeedjurr, while further south
Jawoyn speakers say Bolung. Go north-west,
Limilngan people say Rainbow Serpent is
Lulydjudjan.
Visitor guide - kakadu.gov.au - Parks Australia
8    CULTURE

Rock art
Mimih spirits were the first of the
creation ancestors to paint on rock.
They taught some Bininj how to paint,
and other Bininj learned by copying
Mimih art. At the end of their journeys,
some creation ancestors put themselves on
rock walls as paintings and became djang
                                                                                                1
(dreaming places). Some of these paintings
are andjamun (sacred and dangerous) and
can be seen only by senior men or women;
others can be seen by all people.
Bininj/Mungguy artists continue to paint                                          2
on bark, paper, canvas and fabric. In some
cases, the act of painting puts artists in
touch with their creation ancestors
— a powerful experience.
Kakadu’s rock art (kunbim) represents
one of the longest historical records of
any group of people in the world.
                                               1 First contact                                  3
More than 5000 art sites tell of the             painting at
                                                 Nanguluwurr
creation ancestors and the changes in          2 Traditional
the landscape over thousands of years.           x-ray art
                                                 painting
Look for naturalistic paintings of animals,      at Ubirr

for traditional x-ray art, and for paintings   3 A naturalistic
                                                 style painting
of the first European contact.                   of the thylacine

The act of painting is generally more
important than the painting itself, so
many older paintings are covered by
younger ones.
The best examples can be seen in the rock
art galleries at Ubirr and Burrungkuy          In Dreaming painting, use special paint,
(Nourlangie) (see pages 36 & 38).              ochre, blood. Come back with that feeling.
                                               Ceremony painting is not for everyone to see.
                                               Top business you can’t see it. Go through your
                                               body and give you knowledge, Dreaming.
                                               You might dream. Good one.
                                               Bill Neidjie, Bunidj clan
9

4

    4 While we don’t
      touch the
      paintings, you can
      still connect with
      ancient cultures
10   ENVIRONMENT

        4 Leichhardt's
          grasshopper
          survives in a
          small pocket of
          Kakadu, on one
          species of plant.
          Credit: Lords
          Safaris.com
11

Biodiversity
Biodiversity is the variety of life.
The plants, animals, insects, and
all other life forms are part of
vast ecosystems.
Kakadu’s stunning biodiversity is
internationally recognised in its
listing as a World Heritage area.
Covering nearly 20,000 square kilometres,
Kakadu is one of very few places World                                          1

Heritage listed for both its cultural and
natural values. Its enduring natural values
stem from its exceptional beauty, unique
biodiversity and variety of landforms,
habitats and wildlife.                                                 2

The protection and conservation of
biodiversity is an important part of the
management of this special place.
Kakadu is home to 68 mammals
(almost one-fifth of Australia’s mammals),
more than 120 reptiles, 26 frogs, more than
300 tidal and freshwater fish species,          1 Waterlilies of                3
more than 2,000 plants and more than              many colours
                                                  attract birds and
10,000 species of insects. It provides            insects. Credit:
habitat for 290 bird species – that's             Tourism Australia
                                                2 Dwarf tree frogs
roughly one-third of Australia’s birds. Its       are a common
internationally important wetlands are a          sight but only one
                                                  of many species
major staging point for migratory birds.          of amphibian.
                                                  Credit: Peter Eve,
Some species are threatened or endangered,        Tourism NT

and many are found nowhere else in the          3 Black-necked
                                                  storks use their
world with others still yet to be discovered.     long legs and
                                                  sharp beak to
The creation ancestors gave Bininj/               stab their prey.
                                                  Credit: Tourism
Mungguy a kinship system linking people           Australia

to all things and the cultural responsibility
to look after them all. They have always
understood the biodiversity of country
and their traditional ancestral knowledge
is a vital part of managing Kakadu’s rich
environment.
1

 12    ENVIRONMENT

Crocodiles
Crocodiles are the world’s largest living
reptiles. They are also one of the most
ancient, having existed unchanged for
nearly 200 million years.
                                          2

                                               1 Crocodile safety signs
                                                 provide detailed
                                                 information about
                                                 what you can and
                                                 cannot do in the area
                                               2 Kinga, estuarine
                                                 (saltwater) crocodile

                                               3 Modjarrki or goymarr,
                                                 freshwater crocodile

There are more than 20 species of
crocodilians in the world. Two species           3

occur in Australia: the freshwater crocodile
(crocodylus johnstonii) and the estuarine
(saltwater) crocodiles (crocodylus porosus).
(see crocodile safety information, page 46).
Please read the crocodile warning signs,
consider their information carefully and
obey all safety directions. The creation
ancestors gave Bininj/Mungguy a kinship
system linking people to all things and
the cultural responsibility to look after
them all. They have always understood
the biodiversity of country and their
traditional ancestral knowledge is a
vital part of managing Kakadu’s rich
environment.
4 Kinga,
           estuarine
           (saltwater)                                                                       13
           crocodile

                                                    We still hunt our turtle, goanna or
FRESHWATER CROCODILES                               file snake. We used to swim in the
Freshwater crocodiles – Modjarrkki,                 water, but not this time because
(crocodylus johnstonii) are only found in           the crocs everywhere, kinga.
                                                    Yvonne Margarula, Mirarr clan
Australia, where they live in freshwater rivers,
creeks and plunge pools, such as Maguk and
Gunlom. Freshwater crocodiles are usually           INCREASING CROCODILE NUMBERS
shy animals but can become aggressive if
                                                    Between the 1940s and 1960s, crocodiles
disturbed, so do not approach them.
                                                    were hunted to near extinction for their
                                                    skins. By 1971, both species were fully
ESTUARINE (SALTWATER) CROCODILES
                                                    protected. The estuarine (saltwater)
  Estuarine (saltwater) crocodiles – Kinga,         crocodiles population has recovered
  (crocodylus porosus) are also found in India,     dramatically and they continue to move
  South East Asia and Papua New Guinea.             further inland into freshwater rivers,
4
  Often called ‘salties’, they live in freshwater   billabongs and creeks in search of new
  and estuarine areas such as floodplains,          territory. This has changed how Bininj/
  billabongs, gorges, rivers and coastal            Mungguy live on country and has also
  waters. Estuarine (saltwater) crocodiles are      increased the risk of visitors interacting
  aggressive. They have attacked and killed         with a crocodile. In some visitor areas
  people in Kakadu. For your safety, please         access is only available after park staff
  obey all crocodile warning signs – do not         have trapped and removed any estuarine
  enter the water and keep away from the            (saltwater) crocodiles that have moved in
  water’s edge.                                     during the summer floods. These areas,
                                                    known as crocodile management zones,
                                                    are extensively surveyed at the start of each
                                                    dry season to ensure the risk for visitors
                                                    is reduced. Traps remain in place for the
                                                    entire dry season as estuarine (saltwater)
                                                    crocodiles may move in at any time.
14    ENVIRONMENT

Landscapes and habitats
Within the vast landscapes of Kakadu,
there are six main landforms.
Each landform and the habitat it contains     SOUTHERN HILLS AND RIDGES
has a range of plants and animals. As you     The hills and broken ridge lines in the
move through Kakadu, take the time to         south of Kakadu are the result of millions
explore and appreciate the diversity of the   of years of erosion, creating a diversity of
areas you visit - each one is truly unique.   habitats and the presence of plants and
                                              animals that do not occur anywhere else.
STONE COUNTRY                                 Head to the Mary River region to see these
The dominant sandstone escarpment             landscapes.
of the Arnhem Land plateau ranges from
30 to 300 metres high. In some areas the      TIDAL FLATS, MANGROVES AND COASTLINE
escarpment erodes by up to one metre          Almost 500 square kilometres of coastal
every thousand years. Visit the rock          and estuarine areas, most lined with
shelters and outliers around Ubirr and        mangroves, form important nurseries
Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) for spectacular       for many fish including barramundi.
stone country.                                These wetlands, including floodplains,
                                              billabongs, rivers, coasts and estuarine
SAVANNA WOODLANDS                             areas, are recognised internationally as
Woodlands make up nearly 80 per cent          being significant for migratory birds. The
of Kakadu. Appearing to consist mostly        South Alligator region is the best location
of eucalypts and tall grasses, they may       to see this habitat.
seem lifeless at first glance. However, the
woodlands support a greater variety of        FLOODPLAINS, RIVERS AND BILLABONGS
plants and animals than any other habitat     Floodplains undergo dramatic seasonal
in Kakadu. See the giant termite mounds       changes. After summer rains, a sea of
in the Jim Jim or Mary River regions.         shallow freshwater spreads out for
                                              hundreds of square kilometres. As the
MONSOON VINE FORESTS                          floodplains start to dry, waterbirds
Monsoon vine forests occur in small,          and crocodiles seek refuge in the
isolated patches such as the Manngarre        remaining wet areas such as Yellow Water
walk or Kubara. Fruit-eating birds and        (Ngurrungurrudjba) and Mamukala
flying foxes connect the plants in these      wetlands. A boat cruise is the best way
pockets by dispersing pollen and seeds        to experience these areas.
as they move from pocket to pocket.
15

                           6 Floodplains,
                             rivers and
                             billabongs

            1

6

    2

                    1 Stone country.
                      Credit: Oswald
                      Jacobs
        3
                    2 Savanna
                      woodlands.
                      Credit: Tourism
                      NT
                    3 Monsoon vine
                      forests
                    4 Southern hills
                      and ridges.
                      Credit: Tourism
                      Australia
                    5 Tidal flats,
                4     mangroves
                      and coastline

                                   5
16   SEASONS

                      1 Seasonal flooding
                        brings life to
                        the plains and
                        savanna
                      2 Kunumeleng, the
                        pre-monsoon,
                        brings storm
                        clouds and rains
                        from October to
                        December
                      3 Kapok flowers
                        and seeds
                        indicate different
                        bushtuckers
                        availability

                                             2

                                                 3

To experience the
real essence of Kakadu
please slow down,
take your time, absorb
our relationship with the land,
and embrace nature
the way we do.
17
1

    Six seasons
    of Kakadu
    Throughout the year, Kakadu’s
    landscapes undergo spectacular
    changes.
    Bininj/Mungguy recognise up
    to six different seasons, as well
    as subtle variations that signpost
    the transition from one season to
    another. This knowledge of nature
    is fundamental to the culture of
    Kakadu and its people. Bininj/
    Mungguy have lived with the
    changing landscape for tens of
    thousands of years, adapting and
    using the land for food, shelter
    and general well−being.
The six seasons

                                 BU          NA-MADDJAMOR
                                                            OM
                           KUM                 Last of mons
                         MA avy rain
                                                        oon
                                                                         NA
                                He                                         K
                                                                      t s UL
                                                                   Las
               IGU                                                       tor
              M                                                             m
          GA pells                                                           s
        R    ts
      AR e ho
                                                       BAN
  L

                                                           GKE
GU

    n
  Fi

                                                      Knoc      RR
                      K
                                                           k
                                                      storm ‘em
                                                         sea dow
                                                                  EN
                     W son                                  son n   G
               E

                            a
                          se
             DJ

                                                                                                      KU Start to lig
                    on
           KU

                                                                                                        NAK
                  so

                                                                                    YE
                on

                                                                          Co umid
               M

                                                                            ole
                                                                          h

                                                                                      KKE

                                                                                                            KARR
                                                                               r b eason
                                                                                  ut s
                                                                                   s
                                                                                      till

                                                                                                                     IWURLHKE
                                                                                                                     ht fires
                                                                                Cold weath

                                                                                          WURR
                                                                                          er se
                                                                                              KEN
                                                                                               aso
                                                                                                  n
                                                                                                 G
               EN eason
                 G
                     s

                                                                  Ho
                                        rm                          td
                                      to
                                    ns              KU ry wea
                          EL    nso
                                   o
                                                      RR ther sea
                         M    mo
                        U Pre-                           UN      son
                     KUN                                      G
19
    YEKKE
    Cool weather time, May to June
    The wetlands are carpeted with water
1   lilies. Drying winds and flowering
    Darwin woollybutt tell Bininj/Mungguy
    to patchwork burn the woodlands to
    encourage new growth.

    BANGKERRENG
    Harvest time, April
    Clear skies prevail. The vast expanses
2   of floodwater recede and streams start
    to run clear. Most plants are fruiting
    and animals are caring for their young.

    KUDJEWK
    Monsoon, December to March
    The heat and humidity generate an
    explosion of plant and animal life.
3
    Spear grass grows to over two metres
    tall and creates a silvery-green hue
    throughout the woodlands.

    WURRKENG
    Early dry season, June to August
    Most creeks stop flowing and the
4   floodplains quickly dry out. Magpie
    geese, fat and heavy after weeks of
    abundant food, crowd the shrinking
    billabongs.

    KURRUNG
    Hot dry season, August to October
    Hunting time for file snakes and
5   long-necked turtles. White-
    breasted wood swallows arrive as
    thunderclouds build, signalling
    the return of Kunumeleng.

    KUNUMELENG
    Pre-monsoon, October to December
    Streams begin to run, waterbirds
6   spread out as surface water and
    new growth becomes widespread.
    Barramundi move from the waterholes
    downstream to the estuaries to breed.
20    SEASONS

The role of fire
Aboriginal people have burned country
for tens of thousands of years.
The ancestors gave them a cultural
obligation to look after and clean up
country, a duty handed down from
generation to generation. Signs in nature                               1

told them of the time to burn, a time when
minimal harm would be done to country
but huge benefits would be gained.
Their ongoing traditional management
                                                                    2
of country is recognised in Kakadu’s
World Heritage listing.
Balanda (non-Aboriginal people) are
now starting to realise the value of this
age-old Aboriginal knowledge. In some
areas where no burning took place,
noticeable harm was done. Now that
                                             1 Controlled
traditional burning is back, the landscape     burning
                                                                        3

is once again abundant with native flora       is necessary to
                                               reduce fire risks
and fauna. These days, conservation          2 Noticeable harm
managers across the north of Australia         can be caused
                                               if no burning
are using traditional patch burning in         maintenance is
                                               implemented
the cooler weather to prevent wildfires,
                                             3 Cool burns allow
to repair country and to encourage             trees and plants
                                               to regenerate and
biodiversity to recover.                       recover after fire

REDUCING THE RISK OF WILDFIRES
Please help prevent wildfires. Make sure
your cigarette butts and matches are
out and put them in rubbish bins, not
on the ground. Clear the area around
your campfire and ensure it is fully
extinguished before you leave. Use fuel
stoves to cook.
21

This earth, I never damage. I look after.
Fire is nothing, just clean up.
When you burn, new grass coming up.
That means good animal soon.
Might be goanna, possum, wallaby.
Burn him off, new grass coming up.
New life all over.
Bill Neidjie, Bunidj clan

                                      4 Even areas around
                                        water can contain
                                        huge fuel sources
                                        and need to be
                                        regularly managed
22        ACTIVITIES

                         1

                         1

1 Staff at the
  Bowali Visitor
  Centre
23

Visitor information centres
BOWALI VISITOR CENTRE
Bowali is a Kundjeyhmi          screening documentaries,    Bowali Visitor
name for the local area and     giving different            Centre open hours:
creek on land owned by the      perspectives on Kakadu.     8.00 am to 5.00 pm daily
Mirarr clan. Located a short    The habitat display and     (except Christmas Day)
distance from the Jabiru        library have detailed       T: (08) 8938 1120
township, the building’s        information about Kakadu    E: kakadunationalpark
design was inspired by an       and how much there is to        @awe.gov.au
Aboriginal rock shelter.        see and do. A recharging    (see region maps, page 28)
Friendly staff are available    station is available in
to help you plan your           Bowali for your mobile
Kakadu visit. There is an       devices.
air-conditioned theatre

WARRADJAN ABORIGINAL CULTURAL CENTRE
                                                    ARTS AND CRAFTS
                                                    For Bininj/Mungguy, art is an
The shape of this building represents a
Warradjan, which is a Kundjeyhmi name               expression of cultural identity
for the pig-nosed turtle. This cultural centre      and connection to country.
is on land owned by the Murumburr clan.             Traditional paintings with ochres
Developed by Bininj/Mungguy, the display            are commonly done on paper
provides detailed information about local           and canvas – a more sustainable
Aboriginal culture to help you gain an              practice than on bark, which is
understanding of the connection Bininj/             used less often now. Didgeridoos,
Mungguy have with their families and their          clap sticks, carvings and hunting
land. Traditional owners ask you do not take        tools are made from different
photographs while you are inside Warradjan.         bush timbers. Women have a long
During the dry season, cultural activities are      tradition of collecting plant fibres
sometimes scheduled here. Contact Warradjan         and bush dyes which are woven
Aboriginal Cultural Centre for more information.    into ornaments such as baskets,
The Warradjan Gift Shop has a selection of          mats and jewellery pieces. Another
arts, crafts, books, clothing, cards and light      increasingly popular art form is
refreshments.                                       screen printing traditional and
Warradjan Aboriginal       Open hours:              contemporary designs onto fabrics.
Cultural Centre            9.00 am to 3.00 pm       Visitors can buy arts, crafts and
(Yellow Water region)      daily (except            artefacts made in Kakadu or
                           Christmas Day)           neighbouring Arnhem Land from
                           T: (08) 8979 0525        a number of different outlets
                           E: k
                               akadunationalpark   within the region.
                              @awe.gov.au
24     ACTIVITIES

Ranger talks
                                                           header two
and cultural tours                               RANGER ACTIVITIES FOR SCHOOL
                                                 AND OTHER GROUPS
Kakadu offers visitors a unique                  Kakadu welcomes school and other
opportunity to connect with country              groups. Our rangers can provide exclusive
and culture through a range of tours             educational experiences to help students
                                                 connect with country and can cater
designed to enlighten and inform.
                                                 activities to students’ ages and areas of
                                                 interest. School groups can download
RANGER GUIDED WALKS AND TALKS
                                                 information about education tours and
During the dry season, visitors can join         activities, and a Kakadu study guide,
rangers and traditional owners for
                                                 from the schools page on our website.
activities throughout Kakadu, including
                                                 Other groups visiting Kakadu are also
art site talks, walks, cultural activities and
                                                 encouraged to book a private experience
night-time slide shows. These activities
                                                 with our rangers, who can tailor these
provide an insight into Kakadu’s diverse
natural features and the culture and             sessions to each group’s interests. For more
traditions of Bininj/Mungguy. More               information, contact Bowali Visitor Centre.
information is available from                    More information on a variety of subjects
kakadu.gov.au or contact Bowali                  including language, geology, rock art and
Visitor Centre.                                  walks is available in the Kakadu National
Please respect any talks that you see or         Park fact sheets, which are available for
attend, by moving through or passing             free on our website kakadu.gov.au
by quietly.

                                                                             1 Seasonal activities
                                                                               are very popular,
                                                                               so arrive before
                                                                               the start time to
                                                                               secure your place
25

                                                                          2 Scenic flights over
                                                                            Kakadu by helicopter
                                                                            provide a totally
                                                                            different perspective
                                                                            of the park. Credit:
                                                                            Peter Eve Tourism NT

INDIGENOUS CULTURAL TOURS
ANIMAL TRACKS SAFARI:                        KAKADU CULTURAL TOURS:
Aboriginal culture and wildlife, featuring   Experience culture and scenery aboard the
bush food gathering and cooking.             Arnhemlander 4WD Tour and the Magela
E: kakadu@animaltracks.com.au 		             Cultural and Heritage Tour. Cruise the
T: 0429 676 194                              East Alligator River aboard the Guluyambi
W: animaltracks.com.au                       Boat Tour for breathtaking views of the
                                             surrounding area.
AYAL ABORIGINAL TOURS KAKADU:
                                             E: kctres@kakadu.net.au
Experience wildlife and Aboriginal
                                             T: 1800 525 238
rock art with a local Aboriginal guide.
                                             W: kakaduculturaltours.com.au
E: bookings@ayalkakadu.com.au
T: (08) 8979 0483                            SPIRIT OF KAKADU ADVENTURE TOURS:
W: ayalkakadu.com.au                         Spectacular adventure taking you off
                                             road to see the best of Kakadu.
YELLOW WATER CRUISES:
                                             E: reservations@yellowwater.com.au
Nature and culture cruise on Yellow Water
                                             T: (08) 8979 1500
(Ngurrungurrudjba) wetlands.
                                             W: kakadutourism.com.au
E: reservations@yellowwater.com.au
T: (08) 8979 1500
W: kakadutourism.com.au

OTHER TOURS BASED IN KAKADU
                                              THE SCENIC FLIGHT COMPANY:
KAKADU AIR:                                   Scenic flights over Kakadu.
Scenic flights over Kakadu.                   E: operations@katherineaviation.com.au
E: reservations@kakaduair.com.au              T: (08) 8971 1277
T: 1800 089 113                               W: katherineaviation.com.au/
W: kakaduair.com.au                               kakadu-scenic-flights
KAKADU FISHING TOURS:                         YELLOW WATER FISHING TOURS:
Fishing tours on some of Kakadu’s most        Fishing tours on Yellow Water
breathtaking waterways.                       (Ngurrungurrudjba) wetlands.
E: tours@kakadufishingtours.com.au            E: reservations@yellowwater.com.au
T: (08) 8979 2025 		                          T: (08) 8979 1500
W: kakadufishingtours.com.au                  W: kakadutourism.com.au
26     ACTIVITIES

                                                 CAMPING

Activities
BUSHWALKING
Walking is a great way to experience Kakadu.
There are many walks throughout the
park, including a wide variety of short
and easy day walks as well as some longer,                                                2
more challenging full-day walks for those
who are fit. Check the website for seasonal      Camping is one of the best ways to really
conditions and access.                           feel country in Kakadu, allowing you to
                                                 experience the landscape at the special
 1
                                                 times of dawn and dusk.
                                                 Kakadu has lots of park-managed camping
                                                 areas, with many suitable for caravans. You
                                                 do not need to book ahead to camp at these
                                                 sites. Fees apply and vary depending on the
                                                 level of services and amenities provided.
                                                 There are also a number of commercial
                                                 campgrounds in Kakadu. For detailed
                                                 information on camping fees and amentities
Extended overnight bushwalks are also            at each campsite, see our website.
available for specific sites. These require      For a great camping experience:
a high level of experience and can be            •   Be considerate of others
very physically demanding. For these
reasons, a permit is required for overnight      •   Use gas appliances for cooking
                                                     rather than fire
bushwalking. Advance planning is
essential, as is the ability to navigate using   •   Only light fires in fireplaces provided
a topographic map and a compass. The             •   Only collect dead and fallen wood
routes are unmarked, and extend through              from roadsides
remote and rugged country with variable          •   Camp at least 50 metres away from
climatic conditions.                                 the water’s edge
It is important to prevent dehydration,          •   Keep all equipment in campsites
take plenty of water and read the visitor            and away from vegetation
safety information. (see page 46).               •   Do not disturb trees, particularly small
                                                     trees which provide future shade
Contact the Permits Officer on
(08) 8938 1140 or email                          •   Do not feed the wildlife
kakadu.permits@awe.gov.au                        •   Take rubbish with you when you leave
Permits may take up to 14 days to process.       •   Take notice of safety signs.
27
1 Kubara walk in the Mary
                                                                    Walking is
  River region is one of the
  lesser known, but equally
                                                                good. You follow
  exciting walks                                               track... you sleep,
2 Camping is a great way
  to connect with nature.
                                                               wake in morning
  Credit: Tourism NT                                            to birds, maybe
                                                                kookaburra. You
BOATING AND FISHING                                               feel country.
Boating on Kakadu’s waterways can be
dangerous due to strong currents, sand
bars, submerged logs and crocodiles. For                                          Bill Neidjie, Bunidj clan

this reason the use of non-motorised
vessels (including canoes) is prohibited.           FISHING:
Crocodiles can attack people in boats –             Live bait fishing is not permitted in
the smaller the boat the greater the risk.          Kakadu. Recreational fishing using a line
Please let someone know where you are               with a single hook or lure is permitted
going and what time you expect to be back.          in waters west of the Kakadu Highway
In tidal areas always carry life jackets,           except the West Alligator River system. A
water, oars, flares, torch, tool kit, extra fuel,   landing net may be used to land hooked
EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating                fish. To provide refuge areas, fishing is not
Radio Beacon) and a satellite phone.                permitted in waters east of the Kakadu
Refer to onsite signage for more detailed           Highway except at the camping areas of
safety information. Boating is prohibited           Djarradjin (Muirella Park), Sandy Billabong
in certain areas – see the Bowali Visitor           (Djirrilba) and Jim Jim Billabong. Crab pots
Centre for details.                                 and taking crabs, firearms, traps, nets,
Concrete boat ramps are located at the              spearguns and spears are prohibited in
South Alligator River near the Arnhem               any Commonwealth Reserve. Contact the
Highway, the East Alligator River, Yellow           Bowali Visitor Centre, phone (08) 8938 1120
Water (Ngurrungurrudjba), Mardukal and              for the latest information.
Jim Jim Billabong. Unsealed boat ramps
are located at West Alligator Head and              AVOID SPREAD OF SALVINIA
Djarradjin (Muirella Park).                         Salvinia is a free-floating aquatic fern
Always remember: crocodiles occur near              native to South America. It was originally
boat ramps. For your safety, be alert for           imported as an aquarium plant. It
crocodiles at all times:                            reproduces very rapidly by growing from
                                                    small fragments. The areas between
•    Keep away from water’s edge, do not enter
                                                    Yellow Water (Ngurrungurrudjba) and the
     the water and take extreme care when
                                                    South Alligator River, as well as the Magela
     launching and retrieving boats
                                                    Creek from Madjinbardi to Nankeen
• Do not reach into the water to                    Billabong have been closed to boating as
     bring up a fish; use a landing net             a quarantine measure. If boating near
• Do not clean fish or bleed fish in                salvinia please help stop this weed from
     or near the water’s edge, as this              choking Kakadu’s wetland areas. Check
     may attract crocodiles                         your boat, trailer, and car, and remove
• Remove all fish and food waste,                   any salvinia before moving on.
     which attract crocodiles
(see more information on pages 12, 13, and 46).
28    REGIONS

The seven
regions of
Kakadu
At 20,000 square kilometres,
Kakadu National Park is huge!
The park is divided into seven regions,
and each region offers unique habitats
to explore. These regions are East Alligator
(Erre), Jabiru, Jim Jim and Twin Falls,
Mary River, Burrungkuy (Nourlangie),
South Alligator, and Yellow Water
(Ngurrungurrudjba).
You’ll experience a fascinating
variety of landscapes as you
travel through Kakadu.

                               1 Wetlands – Yellow
                                 Water region
                               2 Savanna woodland
                                 – Mary River region.
                                 Credit: Peter Eve         4 Stone country
                                 Tourism NT                  – Burrungkuy
                                                             (Nourlangie)
                               3 Freshwater pandanus         region. Credit:
                                 – East Alligator region     Oswald Jacobs
29

                                        1

    1

2

    3

            If you respect the land,
         then you will feel the land.
            Your experience will be
                one you cannot get
        anywhere else in the world.
                      Brn Baruwei, Wurrkbaba clan
30           REGIONS
                                                                                                                                                                    This landscape
                                                                                                                                                                 is important to us,
                                                                                                                                                                it is our home... and
             South Alligator                                                                                                                                       we ask that you
                                                                                                                                                                     look after the                                                 Sampson Henry,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Limilngan clan

             region
                                                                                                                                                                        country.

                                                                                     h
                                                                                ac
                                                                           Be
                                                                     cks
                                                            Poco
                                                                                                                                                    Central to this
               1                                             W e st A l l i ga t o r H e a d
   FI NK E        BAY                                                                                                                             area is the South
                                                                                                                                              Alligator River. Get back
                                                                                                                                             to nature and camp under
                           WI
                                                                                                                                              the stars. Visit wetlands
                                                                                                                                               and enjoy invigorating
                                LD
                                     MA
                                          N
     CA R M O R
      P L AI N
                                                                                                                                                     walks in this
                                                                                                                                                       region.
                                                                                                   WE
                                                                                                    ST

                                                                                                                                           SO
                                                                                                                                             UT
                                                                                                         ALLI

                                                                                                                                               H
                                                                                                          GAT
                                                                 RI
                                                                     VE

                                                                                                           OR
                                                                     R

                                                                                                            RI V E R

                                                                                                                                                         ALL
                                                                                                                                                           IGA
                                                                                                                                                             TOR

                                                                                         Fo u r M i l e H o l e
                                                                                                                                                                    RIV
                                                                                                                                                                    ER

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Ja bi r u 2 1
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 AY                                Km
                                                                                                                                                                                                           HW
                                                                                                                                                                                                   HIG
                                                                     er
                                                                Riv

                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Ma m u ka l a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                 we tl a n ds

                                                    an
                                                m
                                          ild               Tw o M i l e H o l e
                                      W

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           M a l ab a n jb
                                                                                             HEM
                                                                River

                                                                                     ARN                                                                                                                                                   Bu r d u l b a c a m p g r o u
                   P a r k E nt r a n ce
                         st a � o n                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     No
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           url
                                                            r

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 ang
                                                          Alligato

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       i
             Darwin
             160 Km                                                                                                                                                        R e d L i l y Billabong
                                                                                                                                                                          ( D junda )
         man

                                                                                                                B u cke t B i l l a b o n g ( N g a r r a ba ba )                                                      1 South Alligator
                                                                                                                                                                                                                         region map
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     AY
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Cooinda
                                                         West
    Wild

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              23 km
  Ea r

                                                                                                                                                                                                                    2 Magpie goose.H W
   Rive

     ch

                                                                                                                            Alligator Billabong
Bran t

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  M i r rMirray
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         a y lookou
    s

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        IG
                                                                                                                            (G ur dur ung ur a njdju)                                        W a rr a d ja n Ab o r i g i Credit:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          nal     LukeH Paterson lo o k o u t
                                                                                                                                                                                            C u l t u r a l C e n t r e 3 Water lilies on
                                                                                                    0                  5          10km                                                         Y el l o w W at e r ( NKungarre
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            g u r r u n g uwalk
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           r r u dj b a)
                                                                                                                                                                                          C o o i n d a L o d g e JiKm akJad
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           i mu
                                                                                                                                                                                                              ra n g e r s t a� o n
                                                                                                                                                                             M a r d u g al
THINGS TO DO
                                                                                             31
MAMUKALA WETLANDS: (Check seasonal
access) Mamukala is beautiful all year but
at its most dramatic in the late dry season
(September – October) when thousands
of magpie geese congregate to feed. An
observation platform allows you to view
the birdlife and a mural illustrates the
                                                  2
seasonal changes that occur through
the year. There is also a 3 kilometre walk
adjacent to the wetlands. Allow 1 to 2 hours
for the full walk.
KUNGARRE WALK: (Check seasonal access)
Starts at the large banyan fig tree near
the old Aurora Kakadu Resort site and
features a 3.6 kilometre circular walk
through monsoon forest, woodlands
and along the margins of Ankurdabbal
Billabong. Allow 2 hours.

                                             3

                                                 WHERE TO STAY
                                                 BUSH CAMPGROUNDS: West Alligator
                                                 Head. Basic toilet facilities. Fees apply
                                                 (collection box).
                                                 FREE CAMPGROUNDS: (Check seasonal access)
                                                 Two Mile Hole, Four Mile Hole, Red Lily
IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME...                         Billabong (Djunda), Bucket Billabong
                                                 (Ngarrababa) and Alligator Billabong
SOUTH ALLIGATOR RIVER & PICNIC AREA:             (Gurdurunguranjdju). No toilet available.
Picnic tables and barbeque areas near the        No drinking water available. Rubbish bins
South Alligator bridge on the Arnhem             are not provided, so please take rubbish
Highway and boat ramp at the northern            out with you.
end of the carpark. (see boating information,
page 27).
                                                 USEFUL INFORMATION
OFF THE HIGHWAY: (Dry season only)               Please show respect by only drinking
There are two major four-wheel drive             alcohol in licensed venues and managed
tracks in the area: the West Alligator           campgrounds.
Head track (which accesses Two Mile
Hole and Four Mile Hole) and the Red
Lily Billabong (Djunda), Bucket Billabong
(Ngarrababa) and Alligator Billabong
(Gurdurunguranjdju) track. Both tracks
lead to destinations suitable for boating,
birdwatching and camping. (see crocodile
information, page 47).
Bininj
       32        REGIONS
                                                                                                   culture is
                                                                                                really strong…
                                                                                                 Very strong
    Jabiru region                                                                                for us bininj.
                                                                                                                      Yvonne Margarula,
                                                                                                                      Mirarr Clan

    1 Jabiru region map
    2 Bowali Visitor
      Centre. Credit:
      Tourism NT
                                               1

                                                                         km
    3 Mercure Kakadu

                                                                      32
      Crocodile hotel.                                               tor
      Credit: David
      Hancock
                                                                  iga

      Skyscans
                                                                All
                                                             AD

                                                            ast
                                                         RO
                                                        r, E ir
                                                          Ub
                                             EL    LI
                                          NP
                                       OE

                  ARNHEM
Darwin 247 km
                                                                           HIG
                                                                              HW
                                                                                AY
                                                        AY

                                                                                                             Jabiru Airport
                                                      HW
                                                   HIG

    Bowali Visitor Centre

                                                        Jabiru
                                                                                            Jabiru is the
                                       U

                                                                                         main township in
                                  KAKAD

                                                                                     Kakadu, providing a range
                                                                                      of essential services for
                                                                                      visitors and a gateway
                                                                                         to all parts of the
                                           m
                                                                                         park and Arnhem
                                      6k                                                         Land.
                                    a4
                             o   ind
                          Co

                                                                      0         1         2km
33

THINGS TO DO                                    WHERE TO STAY
BOWALI VISITOR CENTRE: The Bowali Visitor       MERCURE KAKADU CROCODILE HOTEL:
Centre contains a wealth of information         Hotel rooms (air conditioned), restaurant,
about Kakadu including a theatre, library       gift shop, guest pool and bookings
and interpretive display. Staff are available   for commercial tours. Reservations
to help you plan your visit.                    recommended.
Open daily: 8.00 am to 5.00 pm. 		              T: (08) 8979 9000.
T: (08) 8938 1120.
                                                 3

                                                KAKADU LODGE & CARAVAN PARK:
                                                Budget accommodation, air-conditioned
                                                cabins, tent sites, powered van sites,
                                                barbeque facilities, camper’s kitchen.
                                           2    Bar/bistro for guests and visitors.
                                                T: (08) 8979 2422.
IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME...
                                                ANBINIK KAKADU RESORT:
BOWALI TRACK: Starts opposite the               Bush bungalows, cabins, and
Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel Jabiru.          air-conditioned rooms. Reservations
A 4 kilometre return earth path winds           recommended.
through woodlands to the Bowali Visitor         T: (08) 8979 3144.
Centre. Allow 30 to 45 minutes each way.
                                                BUSH CAMPGROUNDS: (Check seasonal access)
YILIKADJARR WALK: (Dry season only)             Malabanjbanjdju and Burdulba have
Starts at Malabanjbanjdju or Burdulba           basic toilet facilities. Drinking water is
campgrounds. This 3.8 kilometre                 not available. Fees apply (collection box).
circular walk goes across a small
grassy floodplain and along Burdulba            USEFUL INFORMATION
Billabong. Allow 2 hours.                       Jabiru is a retail hub with a service station,
TOURS: Several land-based tours depart          supermarket, Westpac bank, travel agent,
from Jabiru. Scenic flights, which depart       medical centre, chemist, Police, public
from both Jabiru and Cooinda, provide an        telephones, swimming pool, library (with
awe-inspiring bird’s-eye view of Kakadu         internet), Northern Land Council Office,
and its many and varied habitats.               golf course, restaurant, and cafe.
(see tour booking information, page 25).        Please show respect by only drinking
                                                alcohol in licensed venues and managed
                                                campgrounds.
34          REGIONS                                                            People need
                                                                                to come here and
                                                                              relax, sit on country,
                                                                              feel the spirits of the
  East Alligator                                                                 country, and go
                                                                                  home and feel
                                                                                                                           Natasha Nadji,
                                                                                                                           Buntj clan

  (Erre) region
                                                                                  the same way.

                                                                                                        RIVER
  1 East Alligator
    (Erre) region
    map
  2 Ubirr
  3 Cahills Crossing

                                         Ubirr
            1

                                                                             EAST
                                                                                                                               ad       nya
                                                                                                                     elli Ro       bala      km
                                                                                                              /O enp            Kun elli) 14
                                                                                                           ay                     np
                                                                                                       ighw                    (Oe
                                                                                                   H
                                        Manngarre rainforest walk                        h   em
                                                                                      Arn

                               Manbiyarra (Border Store)

                                                                          Cahills Crossing
                               Merl
                                                                                                                   ARNHEM LAND
                                                                                                                Permit required from
                                                                                                                Northern Land Council
                    lli Road
          hway/Oenpe
Arnhem Hig                                                                                                        Tel 08 8938 3000
                                                                                             ALLIG

Jabiru 37 km           Ranger station
                                                                                                   ATOR

                                                 Bardedjilidji walk
                In the shadow
             of the magnificent
         Arnhem Land escarpment,
          discover rainforest, stone
         country, rock art, extensive                         Badbong Wodjmeng
             floodplains and the                              sandstone river walk
                beautiful East
                Alligator River.
                                                                                               RI
                                                                                                 VE
                                                                                                   R

                                           0                          1                      2km
THINGS TO DO                                                                                    35
UBIRR: (Check seasonal access and opening times)
A 1 kilometre circular track takes you past
several fascinating Aboriginal rock art
sites. A moderately steep 250 metre climb          IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME...
takes you to the top of a rocky lookout            BARDEDJILIDJI WALK: (Check seasonal access)
that offers superb views over the Nadab            Starts at a small carpark 500 metre from
floodplain, particularly at sunset. Allow at       the upstream boat ramp and features
least 1 hour. Open April to Nov (Dry) from         a 2.5 kilometre walk through layered
8.30 am to sunset. Dec to March (Summer)           sandstone outliers. One of Kakadu’s most
from 2.00 pm to sunset. During the dry             interesting short walks. Allow 2 hours.
season, rangers provide informative talks
about Aboriginal art and culture. Contact          BADBONG WODJMENG SANDSTONE
Bowali Visitor Centre for details.                 RIVER WALK: (Dry season only) Starts at
                                                   the Bardedjilidji walk and features
EAST ALLIGATOR RIVER: (Check seasonal              a 6.5 kilometre marked circular walk
access) Just east of Merl campground and           which takes you past Catfish Creek
the Manbiyarra (Border Store), a tidal river       (Mawoernewoerne), floodplains,
forms the boundary between Kakadu and              billabongs, sandstone outliers and
Arnhem Land. The Guluyambi Cultural                the East Alligator River. Popular for
Cruise operates on the river during the            croc spotting. Allow 4 hours.
dry season and on Magela Creek during
the summer. Guides explain aspects of              MANNGARRE RAINFOREST WALK:
local Aboriginal culture while you travel          (Dry season only) Three circular walks, from
slowly along the waterways. (see tour              0.6 kilometre to 1.5 kilometres, through
booking information, page 25). Boat ramps          monsoon rainforest beside the East
are located upstream and downstream of             Alligator (Erre) River. Allow 1 hour.
Cahills Crossing. (see boating information,        CAHILLS CROSSING PICNIC AREA:
page 27).                                          (Check seasonal access) Features riverside
                                                   picnic tables and a viewing platform
                                                   across the East Alligator (Erre) River.

                                                   WHERE TO STAY
                                                   MANAGED CAMPGROUNDS: (Check seasonal
                                                   access) Merl campground has showers,
                                                   toilets and generator zone. Fees apply
                                             2     (collected on site).

                                                   USEFUL INFORMATION
                                                   (Dry season only) The Manbiyarra (Border
                                                   Store) is a retail hub selling food and
                                                   drinks, fishing gear, souvenirs, and takes
                                                   bookings for commercial tours.
                                                   T (08) 8979 2474.
                                                   Please show respect by only drinking
                                                   alcohol in licensed venues and managed
                                             3
                                                   campgrounds.
36       REGIONS                                           1 Burrungkuy
                                                                        (Nourlangie)                      When
                                                                        region map
                                                                      2 Enjoy the many
                                                                                                      you come to
                                                                        walks available.
                                                                        Credit: Peter Eve
                                                                                                    this country you
                                                                                                   got to respect the
      Burrungkuy
                                                                        Tourism NT
      1
                                                                      3 See ancient               people because it is             Jeff Lee,
                                                                        rock art
                                                                                                   their country and               Djok clan

      (Nourlangie)
                                                                                                       respect this
                                                                                                          land.

      region
                                                       Cent Visitor
                                                                 km
                                                           re 11
                                                            ali
                                                        Bow

                                     Burdulba                 Malabanjbanjdju                              Burrungkuy is the
                                  campground                  campground
                                                                                                      Kundjeyhmi name for the
                                                                                                    upper section of Burrungkuy
                                                                                                     (Nourlangie) where rock art
                                                                                                      is featured. Anbangbang is
                                                WAY

                                                                                                        the name for the lower
                                           HIGH

                                                                                                        section of the rock and
                No                                        NOUR
                  url a                                       LANG
                                                                   IE                                      surrounding area.
                          n gi
                              e
                                                                                       ROA
                                                                                          D
                                           Cr
                                              e   ek
                                                                                                                                          Kubara

                                                                                                        Nanguluwurr art site
                              KAKADU

                                                          Djarradjin
                                                        (Muirella Park)                                  Burrungkuy (Nourlangie)
Cooinda                                                  campground
23 km                                                                     Nawurlandja

          Mirray lookout                                                                                  Kunwarddewardde lookout
                                                                                       Anbangbang
                                                                                        Billabong

                                                Sandy Billabong
                                            (Djirriba) campground

                                                                          0     1           2km
THINGS TO DO
                                                                                            37
BURRUNGKUY (NOURLANGIE):
Features a 1.5 kilometre circular walk
that takes you past an ancient Aboriginal      3

shelter and several outstanding art
sites. A moderately steep climb to
Kunwarddewardde lookout provides
impressive views of Kakadu’s escarpment
and extensive savannah woodlands below.
Rangers provide informative talks here.       IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME...
Contact Bowali Visitor Centre for details.
Open daily until sunset.                      BUBBA WALK: (Dry season only) Starts at the
                                              Djarradjin (Muirella Park) campground,
 2
                                              and features a 3.5 kilometre circular
                                              walk through several wetland habitats.
                                              Allow 2 hours.
                                              MIRRAY LOOKOUT WALK: A moderately
                                              difficult 2 kilometre return walk to a
                                              platform lookout on top of Mount Cahill.
                                              A steep climb. Allow 1.5 hours.
                                              BARRK SANDSTONE WALK: Branching
                                              off the Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) lookout
ANBANGBANG BILLABONG:                         track, this is a difficult 12 kilometre
(Check seasonal access) A 2.5 kilometre dry   walk through the sandstone country
season circular walk with Burrungkuy          of Burrungkuy (Nourlangie), past the
(Nourlangie) forming an impressive            Nanguluwurr art gallery and back to the
backdrop, this is one of Kakadu’s most        Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) carpark. See
attractive billabongs. Allow 1 hour.          the Barrk walk fact sheet available from
                                              our website or Bowali Visitor Centre.
NAWURLANDJA LOOKOUT WALK:                     Allow 4 to 6 hours. (see crocodile information,
A 300 metre climb up a moderately steep       page 47, and dehydration, page 48).
slope offers views of the escarpment,
Burrungkuy (Nourlangie) and                   WHERE TO STAY
Anbangbang Billabong. Great                   MANAGED CAMPGROUNDS:
sunset spot. Allow 40 minutes.                (Check seasonal access) Djarradjin
NANGULUWURR ART SITE WALK:                    (Muirella Park) has showers, toilets
A 3.4 kilometre return walk through           and is a no-generator zone.
woodlands leads to a quiet Aboriginal         Fees apply (collected on site).
rock art site. Allow 2 hours.                 BUSH CAMPGROUNDS: (Check seasonal access)
KUBARA POOLS WALK: (Check seasonal access)    Sandy Billabong (Djirrilba) campground
A 6 kilometre return walk past sandstone      has basic toilet facilities. Fees apply
cliffs to shady monsoon forest pools.         (collection box). 4WD recommended.
A pleasant place to spend the heat of         Drinking water is not available.
the day. Allow 4 hours.                       Please show respect by only drinking
                                              alcohol in licensed venues and managed
                                              campgrounds.
38      REGIONS
                                                                                                   We tell
                                                                                                you stories
                                                                                              that have been
Yellow Water                                                                                 told to us by our
                                                                                                old people.
region         The local
            Aboriginal name
                                                                                                                 Traditional owner,
                                                                                                                 Murumburr clan

                                                  for Yellow Water is
                                                  Ngurrungurrudjba.
                                        ER       These world-famous
                                    RIV
                               OR                  wetlands are not
                             AT                                                                                                       km
                       AL
                         L IG                        to be missed.                                                       Jabiru 46
1                  H
                UT
              SO

                Yellow Water (Ngurrungurrudjba)
                              Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre
                                                                                                   AY
                                                 CO
                                                   OI                                         I GHW
                                                      ND                                    H
                                                        A
                                                            RO                                                            isitor
                       Cooinda Lodge Kakadu                   AD                                                 Bowali V
                                                                                                                     tre 4 1 km
                                                                                                                 Cen
                                                                                                                             km
                                                                                                                  Jabiru 46
          JIM
            JIM
                CR
                   EE
                      K

                               Mardukal

                                                                          Jim Jim
                                                                       ranger station

                                                                        Jim Jim Billabong
                                  U
                                AD
                                K
                             KA

         JIM JIM
                                      m

                   ROAD
                                  3k
                                15
                              ek
                            re
                          eC
                       Pin

                                                  0                1         2km
THINGS TO DO                                      1 Yellow Water
                                                    region map
YELLOW WATER (NGURRUNGURRUDJBA)                   2 Yellow Water
                                                                                            39
                                                    boat cruise
WETLANDS: (Check seasonal access) Yellow
                                                  3 Barra Bar and
Water is part of the South Alligator River          Bistro at Cooinda
floodplain. A boardwalk provides good               Lodge. Credit:
                                                    David Hancock
views of Yellow Water’s wildlife. When
the waters recede, a 2.6 kilometre return                                                      3

walk takes you across the floodplains to
a viewing platform on Home Billabong.
Yellow Water Cruises operates throughout
the year and provides a marvellous
opportunity to see the varied birdlife
of Kakadu’s World Heritage wetlands.
(see booking information, page 25).
WARRADJAN ABORIGINAL CULTURAL
CENTRE: The circular design of this
cultural centre represents a warradjan
(pig-nosed turtle). The centre’s large display,
developed by Bininj/Mungguy, provides
detailed information about Aboriginal
culture in Kakadu. There is also a gallery
that sells Aboriginal arts and crafts,
books and cards.
Open daily: 9.00 am to 5.00 pm.                   WHERE TO STAY
T: (08) 8979 0051
                                                  COOINDA LODGE KAKADU: Motel rooms,
                                              2
                                                  budget accommodation, tent sites,
        2
                                                  powered van sites, bistro, restaurant,
                                                  pool, store and internet cafe.
                                                  Reservations recommended.
                                                  T: (08) 8979 1500
                                                  MANAGED CAMPGROUNDS: (Check seasonal
                                                  access) Mardukal has showers, toilets and
IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME...                          is a generator zone. Fees apply (collected
MARDUKAL BILLABONG WALK:                          on site). Water not suitable for drinking.
(Dry season only) A 1 kilometre return walk
                                                  BUSH CAMPGROUNDS: (Check seasonal access)
follows the edge of Mardukal Billabong.           Jim Jim Billabong has basic toilet facilities.
Allow 30 minutes.                                 Fees apply (collection box). Drinking water
KUNGARDUN WALK: Starts near the                   not available.
entrance of the Mardukal campground
and features a 2 kilometre circular walk          USEFUL INFORMATION
through woodlands, Kakadu’s most                  The Cooinda Lodge Kakadu store is a
widespread habitat. Allow 1 hour.                 retail hub selling petrol, diesel, food,
                                                  souvenirs, and books for commercial
BOATING: Boat ramps are located at Jim            tours. Please show respect by only drinking
Jim Billabong, Yellow Water and Mardukal          alcohol in licensed venues and managed
Billabong. (see boating information, page 27,     campgrounds.
and crocodile information, page 47).
40       REGIONS                            1 Jim Jim Falls
                                                                                          We want
                                                           and Twin                      visitors to
                                                           Falls region
                                                           map                        experience the
                                                         2 Barrk                     spirituality of this
                                                           Marlam                      area as they
        Jim Jim /
                                                           walk
                                                         3 Scenic flight
                                                                                     walk through the
                                                           over Jim Jim               landscape and
                                                                                         enjoy the
        Twin Falls
                                                           Falls. Credit:
                                                           Tourism NT
                                                                                           views.

                                                                                                       Excerpt from Traditional
                                                                                                       Owners Statement of
                           Ka hwa

                                                         JIM JIM
                            Hig m

                                                                                                       Management Intent
                             kad y
                              40

                                u
                                k

                                                           FALLS R
        1

                                                                  OAD

                                                                   Karnamarr campground
                                                                        Entry gate (locked from
                                                                        8:30 pm to 6:30 am)

Jim                                                  Budjmi
    J   im                                           lookout
             Cree
                  k

                                       Picnic area
                                                                               Jim Jim Falls

           See this area
        from the ground                                                            Barrk Marlam walk
        in the dry season
        and from the air
          in the tropical
          summer. Well
          worth the trip.            Twin Falls

                                        0            2                      4km
THINGS TO DO                                                                                41
JIM JIM FALLS PLUNGE POOL: (Dry season
only, 4WD) Features a 2 kilometre return
walk through monsoon forest and over
boulders to a deep plunge pool surrounded
by spectacular 150 metre high cliffs. During
the dry season the waterfall stops flowing.
Allow 1 to 2 hours. Turn east off the Kakadu
Highway 43 kilometre south of the Bowali
Visitor Centre. Engage 4WD, travel
50 kilometres. Allow 2 hours one way.                                                         3

Please adhere to speed limits and drive
safely. The last 10 kilometre of track            IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME...
includes areas of soft sand. Estuarine            BUDJMI LOOKOUT: (Dry season only)
(saltwater) crocodiles are known to move          A moderately steep 1 kilometre return
into the Jim Jim Falls area. (see crocodile       walk to the top of a rocky outcrop, which
information, page 47).                            provides great views of the escarpment
                                                  cliffs. Allow 45 minutes.
                                              2

                                                  PLATEAU ABOVE TWIN FALLS: A steep
                                                  6 kilometre return walk to the plateau
                                                  with good views and pools along Twin
                                                  Falls Creek above the falls. For further
                                                  information contact Bowali Visitor Centre.
                                                  BARRK MARLAM WALK: This marked day
                                                  walk branches off the Jim Jim Falls plunge
                                                  pool track. It is a very steep, difficult
                                                  6 kilometre return walk through the
                                                  rugged stone country typical of the
                                                  Arnhem Land Plateau. Allow 4 to 6 hours.
                                                  COMMERCIAL TOURS AND FLIGHTS: 4WD
                                                  tours are available in the area during the
                                                  dry season. During the tropical summer
TWIN FALLS GORGE: (Dry season only, high          Jim Jim and Twin Falls can be viewed via
clearance 4WD with snorkel recommended) The       a scenic flight. (see booking information,
spectacular Twin Falls escaprment walk            page 25).
guides you through monsoon vine forests,
and ancient sandstone formations up to            WHERE TO STAY
the lookout. Follow onto the creek to             MANAGED CAMPGROUNDS: (Check seasonal
the track’s end. Marked as difficult, this        access) Karnamarr campground has showers
6 kilometre return walk is for the fit and        and toilets. No generators allowed. Fees
well prepared only. Walkers are reminded          apply (collected on site). Please show respect
to keep away from the cliffs, and carry           by only drinking alcohol in licensed venues
and drink at least one (1) litre of water per     and managed campgrounds. Estuarine
person per hour, keeping walk markers in          (saltwater) crocodiles have been known
sight at all times. Swimming is prohibited        to move into Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls.
in this area.                                     (see crocodile information, page 47).
42                    REGIONS                                                                                       1 Mary River
                                                                                                                                                                   I want
                                                                                                                              region map                         visitors to
                                                                                                                            2 Maguk
                                                                                                                              waterhole
                                                                                                                                                              feel something
                                                                                                                              and falls.                    they’ll never forget

      Mary River                                                                                                                                             and have in their
                                                                                                                              Credit:
                                                                                                                              Tourism
                                                                                                                              Australia
                                                                                                                                                              heart and mind                           Bessie Coleman,
                                                                                                                                                                                                       Wurrkbarbar clan
                                                                                                                                                                  forever.
      region

                                                                                                                                                                                        E
                                                                                                                                                                                    SID
                                                                                                                                                                           GO RAV E
                                                                                                                                                                        RO A D E
                                                                                                                                                                              RG
                                                                                                                                                                              G
                                                                                                             km
                                                                                                         40
                                                                                                        a
                                                                                                    nd
                         1
                                                                                                    oi
                                                                                                   Co
                                                                                          AY
                                                                                          W

                                                                                                    M
                                                                                                        AG
                                                                                 GH

                                                                                                             UK
                                                                            HI

                                                                                                                  RO                                                     Bil kb i lkm i
                                                                                                                       AD
                                                          Gu n g u ru l                                                                                             (G r av es i de g o r ge )
                                                                                                                                  M ag u k                          (p er m it r eq u i r ed )

               The Jawoyn
                                                                                  SO

            people believe the
                                                                                      UT
                                                                                          H

          creation ancestors rest
                                                                                          AL

          here and should not be
                                                                                           LIG
                                                                                              AT

       disturbed. Here you will find
                                                                                               OR
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THINGS TO DO                                                                              43
GUNLOM: (Gravel road; check seasonal access).
A popular camping area located near
a clear plunge pool and waterfall.
A 2 kilometre return steep climb takes
you to the top of the waterfall with               2

natural infinity pool and a lookout
with great views over southern Kakadu.
A 2.5 kilometre return walk leads to
Murrill Billabong and South Alligator
River from the camping area.
YURMIKMIK WALKS:
(Gravel road; check seasonal access).
A series of interconnected walking tracks
which provide a wonderful tropical
summer experience. Individual walks are:
Boulder Creek walk (2 kilometre return);
Yurmikmik lookout walk (5 kilometre                                                        2
return); Motor Car Falls (7.5 kilometre
return); and Kurrundie Creek walk                GUNGURUL PICNIC AREA & CAMPGROUND:
(11 kilometre return). Permit required           Gungurul is accessible all year by 2WD
for this walk.                                   vehicles, caravans, campervans and
IF YOU HAVE MORE TIME...                         coaches. There are picnic tables and basic
                                                 toilet facilities. A 4 kilometre return walk
MAGUK PLUNGE POOL: (Gravel road, dry season      leads you to a branch of the South Alligator
only, 4WD recommended) A 2 kilometre return      River and up a moderate climb to a lookout
walk through monsoon forest and along            with views over the South Alligator Valley.
a sandy and rocky creek leads to a small         Allow 2 to 3 hours.
waterfall and clear plunge pool. Allow
1 to 2 hours. Estuarine (saltwater)              WHERE TO STAY
crocodiles are known to move into Maguk.
                                                 MANAGED CAMPGROUNDS: (Check seasonal
(see crocodile information, page 47).
                                                 access) Gunlom has showers, toilets and
BUKBUKLUK LOOKOUT: Picnic tables and             generator zone, as well as barbeques in the
a moderate 400 metre return walk to a            day use area. Fees apply (collected on site).
lookout with views of old Goodparla Station.     Gravel road.
JARRANGBARNMI (KOOLPIN) GORGE:                   BUSH CAMPGROUNDS: Maguk, Gungurul
(Dry season only, 4WD). Bush camping beside      and Kambolgie have basic toilet facilities,
Koolpin Creek. Access by permit only.            barbeques and picnic tables. Drinking
Permits can be organised through the             water is not available. Fees apply
Permits Officer, Kakadu National Park            (collection box). Check seasonal access
on (08) 8938 1140. (see crocodile information,   for Maguk and Kambolgie.
page 47).
GIMBAT PICNIC AREA: (Dry season only, 4WD).      USEFUL INFORMATION
A shady picnic area situated near                Please show respect by only drinking
Guratba (Coronation Hill) and the                alcohol in licensed venues and managed
South Alligator River.                           campgrounds.
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