10 Reasons Why Durban is South Africa's Most Underrated City - Teddy Minford | March 31, 2018 - PHG Consulting

10 Reasons Why Durban is South Africa’s
         Most Underrated City
          Teddy Minford | March 31, 2018

Durban is often ignored in favor of Capetown and
Johannesburg, but this city by the beach is ready for
the prime time.

While South Africa is most well-known for safaris and wine, South African
cities are becoming destinations in their own right. Trendy Capetown is one of
the hippest cities on earth right now, while Johannesburg is a sprawling
metropolis that’s one of the five biggest cities in Africa and the 50 biggest
cities in the world. But South Africa’s third largest city, Durban, is a fascinating
and indescribable city by the beach that’s full of creative people and diverse
cultures. There are Hollywood-chic boutique hotels, authentic Zulu culture,
and rich Indian heritage that is best experienced through eating. With ruggedly
beautiful beaches and easy access to South Africa’s off-the-beaten-path
wilderness, Durban is a city that needs to be on every South African itinerary.
Here’s how to make the most of your visit.

1 OF 13

Educate Yourself
It’s impossible to visit South Africa without confronting the heartbreaking (and
terrifyingly recent) history of the country. Make the KwaMuhle Museumin Durban
one of your first stops. The museum, which tells the story of Durban’s history,
is a grim look at apartheid and the hideous treatment of the African and Indian
migrant workers and indentured laborers who built the city.

In 1893, a young Gandhi moved to South Africa and spent over 20 years in
the country fighting discrimination. There are Gandhi-related sites and
memorials all over South Africa, but there are a few notable sites in Durban
and the surrounding area that shed light on his fascinating story. Phoenix Settlement,
the onetime home of Ghandi, is located in the lush Valley of 1,000 Hills, about
45 minutes from the city.

2 OF 13

Eat Bunny Chow
Durban is home to one of the largest populations of Indian people outside of
India, and Indian culture has permeated the city. Just ask any local what the
must-try dish is and they’ll all have the same answer: Bunny Chow. (It’s way
harder to get them to agree where the best Bunny Chow can be found,
however.) Made up of chicken or lamb curry stuffed into a hollowed-out loaf of
bread and eaten with your hands, Bunny Chow is an Indian dish that’s unique
to Durban.

Durban’s Victoria Street Market is an indoor maze of stalls selling traditional
crafts and Indian spices. This is the place to come to buy the spices you need
to make Bunny Chow at home.

3 OF 13

Buy Herbs at the Medicinal Market
One of the most authentic experiences in Durban is a trip into the Medicinal
Market, where you’ll be overwhelmed with sights, sounds, and smells you
could never have imagined. Need an animal carcass to use for ancient
rituals? You’ve come to the right place. Selling everything from animal skins
and bones to live chickens, exotic reptiles, and brightly-colored herbs, this is
this place to come to cure any mysterious ailment. Some vendors are
friendlier to tourists than others, but if you’re looking for something to take
home that you can actually get through customs, opt for some incense.

                                    INSIDER TIP
    Do NOT take photographs of any of the healers or shop owners without their
                         consent—it is extremely rude.

4 OF 13

Go Bungee Jumping on the World’s Highest
Swing
Every major city that intends to host a worldwide sporting event needs to take
a page out of Durban’s book when it comes to creative reuse. Rather than let
this $450 million-dollar stadium built for the 2010 World Cup languish, the city
has turned it into a tourist attraction—even when there are no sports to be
seen. At Moses Madhiba Stadium, brave tourists can don harnesses and
climb to the top of the stadium, walk onto a tiny ledge, and freefall for 200 feet
while swinging through the stadium. The jump is enough to make you let out
an involuntary scream, but the swinging bit is pretty nice—from the top of the
stadium, there are views all the way to the ocean and beyond.

INSIDER TIP
After you’re done swinging, you’re hoisted back up to the tiny ledge from whence you
                           jumped—this is not for wimps.

5 OF 13

Stay in One of South Africa’s Coolest
Beachside Hotels
North of Durban in the beachy suburb of Umhlanga, there’s a gem of a
hotel: The Oyster Box, a tropical plant-covered boutique hotel perched on a
cliff above the Indian Ocean. While the over-the-top colonial decor, art, and
uniforms feel unnecessary and out of place (especially since the property is
only around 60 years old) it’s still one of South Africa’s most luxurious
hotels—just ask Khloe Kardashian and Nicki Minaj, who have both spent the
night in the presidential suite (not together). The hotel feels both grand and
cozy at the same time, with multiple pools, an indoor/outdoor setting,
breathtaking ocean views, and white marble and palm trees galore.

                                     INSIDER TIP
If you’d rather stay closer to the action, the newly renovated Hilton Durban is the best
    hotel downtown, with an excellent restaurant owned by South African celebrity
                           golfer/chef/winery owner Ernie Els.

6 OF 13

Take a Walk on the Golden Mile
Similar to South Beach in Miami or the Venice Boardwalk in L.A., Durban’s
golden mile is a pedestrian-friendly stretch of urban beach that’s home to
some of the city’s best people watching. Go shopping at the souvenir stalls,
post up at a beachside cafe, or have a picnic while watching the waves.
There’s even, oddly, a chairlift to nowhere that takes you above the palm trees
lining the beach, running parallel to the coast and the magnificent art deco
hotels and casinos lining the Golden Mile.

7 OF 13

Learn About Zulu Culture
KwaZulu-Natal, the part of South Africa where Durban is located, is the heart
of the Zulu kingdom and one of the best places to learn about South Africa’s
largest indigenous population. At iSithumba Cultural Village, visitors can learn
about Zulu culture in an authentic setting, walking around the village and
meeting with a sangoma, a traditional healer. While the idea of visiting a
poverty-stricken community as a relatively wealthy tourist may make you
uncomfortable, iSithumba is a Zulu-owned business that employs locals and
you get to learn from real members of the community while you hang out, buy
a beer from the local market, and walk around.

8 OF 13

Hang out in South Africa’s Hippest
Neighborhood
The “Brooklynization” of the world may have you feeling weary of converted
factories and cold-brew coffee, but Durban’s Station Drive Precinct is a
refreshing take on urban renewal. In a former industrial area, Station Drive
Precinct has been revitalized with all the hipster amenities, including a
distillery, a vintage clothing store, a farmers’ market, a funky gift shop, a tattoo
parlor, a brewery, a cafe, a florist, an art studio, and a creative coworking
space. This is the creative hub of Durban, and it’s a great place to spend an
afternoon eating, drinking, shopping, and meeting some of Durban’s most
enterprising and creative locals.

                                     INSIDER TIP
   For a bit of South African humor, make sure to visit S43 Brewery for one of their
                                   comedy shows.

9 OF 13

Drink Hipster Gin
Do not miss a cocktail, a gin tasting, or a snack at Distillery 031, an award-
winning gin distillery located in Station Drive Precinct. Besides being an
incredible loft-like space (and rooftop bar!) with delicious libations, it’s one of
the best places in town to pick up a fun souvenir, like a bottle of absinthe
made with local herbs.

10 OF 13

Party Like a Local
If you eat at one restaurant in Durban, make it Max’s Lifestyle, a butcher
shop/bar/beer garden/clothing store located in Umlazi, a 20-minute drive from
downtown Durban. This outdoor nightclub and restaurant is what South
African food is all about: Braai, or barbecued meat. But you’re not here for the
food. You’re here for the bumping house music, the strong drinks, the buckets
full of beer, and the endless dancing on any surface you can find. It’s hard not
to enjoy yourself at Max’s Lifestyle.

                                    INSIDER TIP
 There’s an unspoken system and ritual of dining here that involves picking out your
   own meat and bringing it around back to the grill yourself, so go with a local or
    somebody who’s been before—otherwise, you’ll stick out like a sore thumb.

11 OF 13

Head Out on the Open Ocean
With all of Durban’s cultural sites and museums, it’s actually pretty easy to
forget that the Indian Ocean is right at your doorstep. Plan at least one day of
ocean adventures, whether that’s snorkeling or diving at Aliwal Shoal. If you’re
lucky, you’ll be able to spot whales and dolphins. If you’re unlucky, the
monstrous waves will make you seasick, so don’t eat a big breakfast.

12 OF 13

See the Big 5 at a Luxury Safari Lodge
Just a few hours from Durban lies one of South Africa’s most magical private
game reserves. &Beyond Phinda is comprised of five luxurious and intimate
safari lodges situated in some of the most spectacular settings in South Africa.
With two daily game drives for guests, Phinda has much more to offer than
just the Big 5, with populations of black rhinos, cheetahs, and even sea turtles
(in season). While the wildlife is the reason to visit, the lodges will make you
never want to leave. The glass-walled cabins at Phinda Forest Lodge are
straight out of a modern fairytale, with luxe linens, a deep soaking tub, and a
private deck for enjoying sundowners.

13 OF 13

Ride on a Historic Luxury Train
Rovos Rail, a vintage-inspired luxury train company, departs from the Durban
train station for two-day journeys to Pretoria. Onboard, guests get wined and
dined in style while the train meanders through the countryside, making stops
at a ceramics gallery and two safari parks.