A JOURNEY OF EXPLORATION - 48 HOURS IN HARARE VICTORIA FALLS - A SEASON FOR EVERYONE PEDALLING THROUGH HWANGE'S WILDERNESS FOLLOWING THE FL Y TO ...
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EIGHTH EDITION 2019
A JOURNEY OF EXPLORATION
48 Hours in Harare
victoria Falls
- A SEASON FOR EVERYONE
pedalling THROUGH
HWANGE’S WILDERNESS
FOLLOWING THE FLY
TO THE EAST
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Pedalling Through
Hwange National Park not only offers up opportunities to see the Big Five and the largest
variety of birds in the country, but also the opportunity to sit at eye level with an Elephant’s
toe nails as well as follow one around on a mountain bike. Shelley Cox explores some of the
Hwange’s Wilderness unique experiences on offer in Zimbabwe’s premier wildlife destination...
Words by Shelley Cox
Photographs by Christopher Scott
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D
espite the cool winter eland, and general plains game, as well as Previous pages: After a sweaty
morning air my ride mountain bikers are
two different encounters with both lion
rewarded with a close-up sighting
hands were sweating and cheetah. In addition, the bird-life of one of Hwange’s magnificent
profusely and I was had been astounding, particularly of the bull elephants.
being deafened by the raptors, with two really special chance Above and left: Its only when you
are looking at these magnificent
beat of my own heart, encounters – a bateleur eagle fighting animals from toe level can you
as adrenalin surged its way through my mid-air with a tawny eagle, and a martial really appreciate their size and
body. I stared in awe at the old elephant eagle dropping the remains of its prey – presence.
bull we were following, acutely aware of the rear end of a civet. For me personally,
how small we were in comparison and at every sighting was incredibly special in
what a privilege it was to be in such close its own way, but what truly made our trip
proximity to one of the world’s most were the activity experiences which we
majestic species... on a mountain bike! took part in and which made me step out
I could not have imagined a better of my comfort zone and feel alive.
way for me to spend my second last day
exploring the Jozibanini area of Hwange Elephants Up Close
National Park than in the company of and Personal
this gentle giant. I also would never
have imagined doing it on a mountain From sitting a few metres away
bike, one of many diverse and richly from elephants drinking at the guest
rewarding experiences currently on offer swimming pool, to settling into the
in the wilds of Hwange. “Look Up” hide (a sunken container
We had journeyed into Hwange thats puts you at eye-level with an
National Park to experience the new elephant’s front feet)… the opportunities
range of activities on offer with Imvelo to experience and photograph these
Safari Lodges, an organisation which has animals are nothing short of spectacular.
established a portfolio of luxury camps It not only allows for one to be
in both Hwange and Victoria Falls, and completely absorbed in and appreciate
who work closely in partnership with the the complex nature of the species,
local communities. examining in detail their intricate
I had, over the course of nine days, features, mannerisms and their social
managed to clock up a substantial structures, but to feel a deep connection
number of sightings of a diverse array and compassion for these gentle giants
of species including elephant, buffalo, that roam the wild habitats of Africa.
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Hwange on Horse-back from all over the world. It is a humbling area and the park, and is one of the
experience to witness the happy chatter unique ways in which Imvelo have
The experience with Hwange Horse-back along the dusty roads as they make their adapted their activities to incorporate
Safaris is not just about the exhilaration way to school, the place that ultimately the environment and communities
of saddling up and heading out into gives them the foundations of their around them. We were treated to a
the wild landscapes of Hwange… it is future. diverse range of sightings as wildlife
far more than that. It is about quietly ran alongside us on the open Ngamo
moving through the wilderness, The Elephant Express floodplains, and as we enjoyed an
absorbing the sights and sounds afternoon gin and tonic, and watched
around you with the gentle “clip-clop” On your way into and out of camp, the sun slowly start to sink its rays into
of hooves below you, as the wildlife imagine sitting back and sipping on the horizon beyond us, we had to bring
continue grazing undisturbed by the your gin and tonic, the soothing click the Elephant Express to a grinding halt
horses. As an inexperienced rider, I was clack of wheels gliding over the railway as a small breeding herd of elephants
somewhat nervous to say the least, and being the only reminder that you are slowly made their way across the
Below: Spectacular wildlife
as we headed out on horse-back, into on a train, whilst watching the wildlife railway line back into the Park. The two sightings are quite common from
the open vlei-lines of the Tsholotsho slowly pass by, as only the Hwange hour journey allowed for us to soak in this unique form of transport; the
communal lands, owner Sharon and her pioneers could have done over 100 years the changing landscapes of woodland Elephant Express.
Facing page top and bottom:
chief groomsman Steven, quickly put ago. The Elephant Express traverses forests and open floodplains, enjoying Discover Hwange’s wilderness at
me at ease as they delved into stories of the 70km scenic railway line, which the sights and smells which the African a more sedate pace on the back
their experiences over the last decade acts as a border between the Forestry wilderness has become renowned for. of an experienced horse.
operating horse-riding safaris. Engrossed
in their stories as we approached a
shallow pan, I had been unaware of how
my horse Lily had suddenly perked up
and as we entered the knee-high waters,
her excitement at the prospect of a swim
gained momentum. Thankfully Sharon
and Steven came to the rescue and
Lily and I were guided (begrudgingly
on Lily’s part) out of the waters before
being fully submerged. The horses love
the treat of running knee-deep through
the natural pan waters and it is quite an
invigorating experience, particularly
during the warmer weather days.
Connecting to the
Communities
The northern, eastern and southern
boundaries of Hwange National Park are
primarily made up of safari buffer zones
and community land. It is therefore vital
that the communities, as custodians of
the land, are involved in tourism and
wildlife conservation, and that they
benefit from it. Today ecotourism is
thriving across the Hwange landscape
and communities are not only receiving
support in the way of water, health
and education but through ongoing
tourism development, and employment
opportunities that have been created.
Local village visits and a tour of one of
the schools allow for guests to immerse
themselves in the communities and gain
a glimpse into their daily lives. Joining
the morning walk to school gave us the
opportunity to interact with the children
and reciprocally allows them to meet
guests who hail from diverse cultures
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Mountain Biking in Jozi had the privilege of this experience.
Above: Adventurous mountain Over the course of the last 20 years,
bikers give way to oncoming traffic
in Hwange’s Jozibanini area. As someone who has always been over- tourism to Hwange has been primarily
cautious when it comes to up-close and limited to the central and south-
personal encounters with elephants, I eastern sections of the park. Today the
had been fairly hesitant about climbing situation has changed with new tourism
on board a mountain bike and venturing developments taking place across the
out into the unknown along a sandy road park in both the northern and southern
in an area renowned for its large elephant regions, opening up areas which had
numbers. However, having always loved previously been “off the grid”, and with
the slow pace of a walking safari and the addition of a number of unique
its ability to bring your senses to life, activities, adding to the diversity of
I quickly recognised a similar feeling what Hwange has to offer as a tourist
as we peddled across the pan and onto destination.
a road meandering through mopane Whilst once viewed as a 3 to 4 night
woodlands, stopping to observe spoor destination, primarily focused on
left from the night before, examining walking safaris and game drives, Hwange
Shelley Cox is dung and plant species and generally just has now become a safari adventurer’s
a proudly-born taking in everything that was around us. dream – offering a diversity of unique
Zimbabwean with It was not long before my sweaty palm experi-ences for adventure seekers and
a deep passion
for wildlife and
moment arrived, and we were peddling the more timid travellers to take part
conservation. behind an old elephant bull. Our guide in. When next travelling to Hwange
Having studied Tyrone respected his distance and we National Park, consider extending your
for a Bachelor of Journalism at Rhodes
hung back and watching him slowly itinerary to incorporate at least 6 to 8
University in South Africa, Shelley has
worked in the tourism industry for the browsing as he walked. He eventually cut nights in this wildlife haven, allowing
past nine years and is a co-owner and the in to a pan to the left and we cautiously yourself to not only see the diverse
Marketing and Sales Director of Africa followed, eventually stopping about 30 landscapes and wildlife species across
Conservation Travel, an organisation
with a focus on creating a greater
metres away while watching him as he the park, but to branch out and enjoy the
connection between tourism, conservation quenched his thirst from a natural pan. additional experiences on offer in this
and local communities. Shelley also We enjoyed the moment for a while magical part of the world.
does voluntary consultancy to Zambezi before slowly retreating and making our
Elephant Fund, an organisation focused
on the protecting of the Middle Zambezi way back down the road from where Huge thanks go to Imvelo Safari Lodges
Biosphere Reserve and is on the board of we came. Intense, thrilling and yet for hosting us throughout our trip to
trustees for Victoria Falls Enviro Watch. absolutely fulfilling, I rode away with a make this article possible.
very happy heart and grateful for having
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