Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road

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Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
Capacity for safety evaluation of
         cosmetics in India
                           Adip Roy
Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road,
                  Whitefield, Bangalore – 560066
Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
Cosmetic Ingredient Risk Assessment
For any ingredient safety Risk Assessment is a function of:

» Hazard – potential harmful effects
• Intrinsic hazard of material
• Safety concerns due to functionality

» Exposure – how much will the consumer be exposed to?
• Normal habits & practices
• Amount of ingredient in product

- Cosmetics
• Different risk/benefit compared to other sectors e.g. Pharma
• Limited controls
Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
Can We Use a New Ingredient Safely?

 Will it be safe
 • For our consumers?
 • For our workers?
 • For the environment?

                                Can we use x% of
                                   ingredient y
                                  in product z?
Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
How Do We Assure Safety of Ingredients
Legislation (in place in most countries) requires Companies to ensure that any
cosmetic products they put on the market do not cause any adverse health
effects when applied under normal or reasonably foreseeable conditions of
use.

Regardless of whether legislation exists or not, Unilever requires that all
products it places on the market must be safe for use

We use scientific evidence-based risk assessment methodologies to ensure
that the risk of adverse health and/or environmental effects from exposure to
chemicals used in our products is acceptably low.

 Unacceptable                                                         Acceptable
     risk                                                                risk
Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
A Risk-based Approach Facilitates Safe
Innovation
      We use scientific evidence-based risk assessment methodologies
      to ensure that the risk of adverse health and/or environmental
      effects from exposure to chemicals used in our products is
      acceptably low

        Hazard-based                               Risk-based
• Check-list compliance                 • Expertise- & evidence-driven
• Unnecessary testing                   • Essential testing only
• Doesn’t consider how                  • Product use / exposure
  product is used                         determines outcome
• Yes / no decisions                    • Options to manage risks
• Overly conservative                   • Uncertainties explicit
Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
Safety Assessment Process for
Ingredients in Cosmetic Products
  Consider product type
   and consumer habits
                                         Identify available           Identify supporting
                                          toxicology data           safety data (e.g. QSAR,
  Determine route and                                                        HoSU)
  amount of exposure

   Identify toxicological
                                                      Evaluate required vs.
  endpoints of potential
                                                        available support
          concern

   Identify critical end
                                                       Conduct toxicology
     point(s) for risk
                                                       testing as required
       assessment

                                                                Overall safety evaluation for
                   Conduct risk assessment
                                                               product – define acceptability
                   for each critical endpoint
                                                              and risk management measures
Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
Safety assessments of Cosmetic products
and ingredients
● Toxicological product safety assessments are conducted to support
  human consumer trials and marketing products where:

   – A novel ingredient is to be used in an existing product type
   – An existing ingredient is used in a new product type/format
   – Levels of ingredients are modified in an existing formulation
Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
Routes of Consumer exposure

 Skin:                          Inhalation:
 Skin creams                    Aerosols
 Deodorants/APs                 Pump sprays
 Soap/cleansers                 Hair shampoo/
 Hair shampoo/                  conditioner
 conditioner                    Shower gel
 Shower gel

                  Ingestion:
                  Toothpaste/
                  mouthwash
                  Lipsticks
Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
Toxicity Endpoints (Human Health)
Relevant toxicity endpoints based on the Scientific Committee on
Consumer Products guidance document “Notes of Guidance for the
Testing of Cosmetic Substances and their Safety Evaluation”

•   Acute toxicity
•   Corrosivity and irritation
•   Skin sensitisation
•   Dermal/percutaneous absorption
•   Repeated dose toxicity
•   Reproductive toxicity
•   Mutagenicity/genotoxicity
•   Carcinogenicity
•   Toxicokinetic studies
•   Photo-induced toxicity
Capacity for safety evaluation of cosmetics in India - Adip Roy Safety & Environmental Assurance Centre, Unilever R&D, 64 Main Road
Toxicological Evaluation Capability in India

Several institutions and CROs (GLP compliant) have toxicological
assessment capability in India
India Capacity: Non-animal Alternatives
  Only some of the OECD test guideline non-animal methods (e.g.
  Genotoxicitiy) are routinely carried out in India.

                       OECD TG473
                                                                                                 Donor
                                                                 Skin                            chamber
                                                                 position
                                                                                                                 Skin
Genotoxicity                                       Receptor
                                                   solution in                                                Penetration
                                                             Receptor
                                                             chamber        Window
                                                                                                  Receptor
                                                                                                  solution
    OECD TG471
                                                                      OECD TG428                 out

                                OECD TG476
       OECD TG438
                                                                                                                OECD TG432
                                                                               % control
                                                                                NRU
                                                                                120
                                                                                 110
                                                                                 100
                                                                                  90
                                                 OECD TG430/431                  80
                                                                                  70
                                                                                  60                         EC50 level
                                                   OECD TG439                    50
                                                                                  40
                                                                                  30
  OECD TG437                                                                      20
                                                                                  10
                                                                                   0
                                                                                       0.1   1    10          100         1000   10000
                                                                                                 Concentration mg/ml
      Eye Irritation
                                     Skin Corrosion/Irritation
                                                                                                 Phototoxicity
Challenges: Validation Of Alternative Tests
(e.g. Skin Irritation)

Test method development*: c.1996-1999
• Prevalidation study: 1999-2001
• Optimisation of test protocols: 2001-2003
• Validation study: 2003-2006
• ECVAM peer review & endorsement of EPISKIN: 2007
• Derivation of performance standards and “catch-up” validation study for 2nd
  revision of EpiDerm protocol and for Skin Ethic 2007-2008
• EU test method guideline 2009
• OECD test method guideline 439 July 2010

  * New in vitro biology made this possible – harnessing state-of-the-art technology for
  toxicology
Current Scientific Reality:
 Non-animal Approaches For Safety Decisions
                          Timeline for Replacement of Animal
   Human Health                         Testing
                                                                                  Comments
 Toxicology Endpoint     [Note: Regulatory Acceptance would require
                                   an additional 4-8 years]

                         No timeline for full replacement could
Repeated dose toxicity                                                Ongoing work still at research stage
                                      be foreseen
                                                                     Current in vitro test methods are
                         No timeline for full replacement could   inadequate for generating the dose-
   Carcinogenicity                                              response information required for safety
                                      be foreseen
                                                                               assessment
                                                                Several non-animal test methods under
                                                                     development & evaluation; data
  Skin Sensitisation       2017 – 2019 for full replacement         integration approaches for safety
                                                                          assessment required
                                                                      Ongoing work still at research stage
                         No timeline for full replacement could
Reproductive Toxicity                                                   >2020 to identify key biological
                                      be foreseen
                                                                                   pathways
                                                                      Ongoing work still at research stage
                         No timeline for full replacement could
    Toxicokinetics                                                     2015 – 2017: prediction of renal &
                                      be foreseen
                                                                      biliary excretion and lung absorption

                                    Adler et al (2011), Archives in Toxicology, 85 (5) 367-485
Approaches to Risk Assessment Without
Animals
Past:
• hazard focus
• emphasis on tests for classification and labelling
  (‘positives/negatives’)
• direct replacement of a specific animal test
Now
• focus on non-animal approaches for consumer safety risk
 assessment
• data required for safety decision should be driver
• dose response information is essential
• understanding the underpinning human biology
• Not looking for a way to do the animal test without the animal
US NRC Report June 2007

                          “Advances in toxicogenomics,
                          bioinformatics, systems biology,
                          epigenetics, and computational
                          toxicology could transform toxicity
                          testing from a system based on
                          whole-animal testing to one
                          founded primarily on in vitro
                          methods that evaluate changes in
                          biologic processes using cells, cell
                          lines, or cellular components,
                          preferably of human origin.”
Perturbation of Toxicity Pathways

                  Exposure

                Tissue Dose                     Low Dose
                                                  Higher Dose
             Biologic Interaction                     Higher yet
                Perturbation

                                                          Normal
Biologic
                                                         Biologic
 Inputs                                                  Function

                                    Early Cellular
                                      Changes

                Adaptive Stress
                                                          Cell      Morbidity
                  Responses                              Injury       and
                                                                    Mortality

                      (From Andersen & Krewski, 2009, Tox Sci, 107, 324)
TT21C
        Exposure & Consumer Use
        Assessment
                                                                Chemistry-led
                                                                alerts & in vitro
           High-content information in vitro
           assays in human cells & models                       screening

               Dose-response assessments

                   Computational models of the
                   circuitry of the relevant toxicity
                   pathways

                       PBPK models supporting in vitro to
                       in vivo extrapolations

                            Risk assessment based on
                            exposures below the levels of
                            significant pathway perturbations
Adverse Outcome Pathways (AOP)

• Proposal for a template and guidance on developing and assessing the
 Completeness of Adverse Outcome Pathways

                                                       Adapted from OECD (2012)
Adverse Outcome Pathway (AOP)

• An adverse outcome pathway (AOP) is the sequence of
  events from the chemical structure of a target
  chemical through the molecular initiating event to an
  in vivo outcome of interest.
• It is the ‘capture’ of the mechanistic processes that
  initiate and progress through the levels of biology to
  give rise to toxicity in living organisms for given
  chemical toxins.
• Each AOP represents the existing knowledge of the
  linkage(s) between a molecular initiating event,
  intermediate events and an adverse outcome at the
  individual or population level.
AOP-based risk assessments
Example: Skin Allergy

Epidermis                             Epidermis
                             Lymph
                              Node

     Induction                       Elicitation
AOP-based risk assessments
 Example: Skin Allergy
 Induction of skin allergy is a multi-stage process driven by toxicity pathways
 - mechanistic understanding is captured in Adverse Outcome Pathway (AOP)
 - non-animal test methods have been developed; each aims to predict impact of a
   chemical on one key event
 - how can we make risk assessment decisions by integrating this scientific evidence?

    1. Skin
  Penetration                                                                                           8-11. Allergic Contact
                                                                          7. Presentation of
                      3-4. Haptenation:      5-6. Activation of                                         Dermatitis: Epidermal
                                                                       haptenated protein by
                    covalent modification       epidermal                                              inflammation following
 2. Electrophilic                                                     Dendritic cell resulting in
                    of epidermal proteins     keratinocytes &                                         re-exposure to substance
   substance:                                                         activation & proliferation
                                               Dendritic cells                                          due to T cell-mediated
  directly or via                                                          of specific T cells
                                                                                                              cell death
auto-oxidation or
   metabolism

                       Key Event 1          Key Event 2 + 3                Key Event 4                 Adverse Outcome

                                                                  Modified from ‘Adverse Outcome Pathway (AOP) for Skin Sensitisation’,
                                                                  OECD report
India Capacity: Research on Animal
Alternatives in India
Research on Animal Alternatives in India
Research on Animal Alternatives in India:
Future Directions
The symposium ended with a panel discussion chaired by Dr. KC Gupta
(Director, Indian Institute of Toxicology Research) - addressed topics on
current status on research on alternatives (current projects, gaps,
funding), Education & Training in alternatives, and Policy & Regulations.
Key points:

• Learn from the experience we have from many years of research that
  has been carried out in the EU on animal alternatives.
• Need to develop a roadmap and academia and STOX can help.
• Academia – Industry and Industry-Industry partnerships are critical in
  addressing this issue.
• There is a need to build capability and upgrade skills especially in
  areas of modelling.
• Training in toxicology is not enough; experts from various disciplines
  need to work together in developing novel methodologies for risk
  assessment.
Summary / Conclusions
• Pathways based approaches are gaining widespread acceptance as the
  conceptual framework under which novel risk assessment techniques
  will be developed
• There are challenges of AOPs for using in Chemical Risk Assessment
   • How many AOPs are there?
   • How to extrapolate from in vitro to in vivo concentrations?
   • Which AOPs are relevant for which chemicals?
   • How will regulators view AOPs?
   • How can AOPs be catalogued for use by risk assessors?
   • How conserved are AOPs across species and life stages?
   • Which AOPs should be focused on?
   • How detailed do AOPs need to be?
   • How should interactions among AOPs be assessed?
   • What is the best approach for linking exposure (ADME) to AOPs?
Challenges for the Future

1. Maximise use of existing validated non-animal methods for
   safety decision-making (e.g. skin irritation, skin penetration
   etc.)

2. For those toxicity pathways where we currently rely on animal
   studies, continue to develop new risk-based approaches for
   consumer safety assessment linked to understanding toxicity
   pathways

3. Importance of collaborative multi-disciplinary research to
   generate new ideas, working with the best scientists globally
Thank you
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