Culinary Trends and Breakthroughs - The Association of ...
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by Rocky Dunnam, CEC, CDM, CFPP
1 HOUR
CE
CBDM Approved
Culinary Trends
and Breakthroughs
CULINARY CONNECTION
WE E X P LO R E A F E W C U RRE NT C U LINARY TRENDS , A N D
S O ME U N IQ U E P R O D UC TS D ES IGNED FO R E AS E O F USE
AND GREAT RES ULTS.
Trends and innovative new gadgets often emerge parallel and in varying climates. This demand caused the French
to each other. This makes perfect sense when you think government to offer a hefty prize for any inventor that
about it, because they create a market and necessity for could develop such means in an efficient manner. In 1809,
each other. This concept is really nothing more than basic Nicolas Appert—a French brewer—noticed that food
supply and demand. When a culinary trend demands cooked inside a jar did not spoil unless the seal of the jar
certain ingredients, businesses respond by developing was broken and leaked. His method of preserving in jars
more efficient, cost-effective ways to supply that demand is what led to the eventual use of similar preservation
and the newest innovation emerges. As time passes, these methods in modern aluminum cans. The issue with cans
once cutting-edge products become increasingly available was, and still is, that cans are sealed so well they cannot
and affordable. easily be opened by hand, unlike their more crude glass
jar counterparts. Thus, the can opener was invented.
Let’s look at the can opener, for example. In the early
Of course the can opener seems far from innovative by
1800s in France, the Napoleonic Wars demanded that
today’s standards, but in 1855—when it was patented—it
there be a way to preserve food for long periods of time
was truly a unique invention. As the can opener became
30 N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017rocky.dunnam@ejbcc.org
more available, it also Restaurant Troisgros. the water itself. We know Rocky Dunnam,
became more affordable. that at 212˚F water boils, CEC, CDM, CFPP is
Like any trend, when
Executive Chef at
This parallel development something works well, it which circulates the water
the Bivins Founda-
has continued through becomes very popular. naturally via the escaping tion, Childers Place,
the years as more items Other chefs, and even air bubble agitation. But Bivins Memorial
are being canned, and scientists, began to notice what if we want to cook Nursing Home, Eliz-
companies have developed this practice and wanted to in water that’s only 185˚F? abeth Jane Bivins
better, less expensive can This water will, by nature, Culinary Center,
adopt similar techniques NINETEEN49 Ca-
opener options. in their operations. remain still. There must be
tering, and Rock’D
Before long, widespread a ‘supply’ to the ‘demand’ Recipes in Amarillo,
So what kind of trends and
use of sous-vide cookery that’s growing in the Texas.
innovations are emerging
became synonymous with industry’s establishments
today that can or will follow
producing an extremely that are practicing sous-vide
a similar pattern? Let’s
flavorful product with cookery.
examine three modern
trends and the inventions minimal moisture loss, Enter the immersion
that are on a parallel track allowing for tender circulator! This invention,
of convenience and novelty. meats, perfectly cooked born out of necessity
vegetables, etc. for sous-vide cooking,
SOUS VIDE AND
Chefs began to develop electronically heats and
IMMERSION
parameters internally circulates water for this
C I R C U L AT O R S
that, when applied exact purpose. Early
Sous vide (which means immersion circulators were
correctly in terms of time
“under vacuum”) is a bulky and very expensive.
and temperature, would
cooking method where These pieces were only
deliver consistent results.
food items are packaged feasible for high-end
Like many innovations
in plastic bags and vacuum restaurants and high-profit
and trends though, early
sealed, and then the sealed manufacturers, and were
sous-vide cookery had
package is submerged in simply irrational for use
some drawbacks. For
temperature controlled in smaller operations.
instance, most restaurants
water to heat evenly. Sous However, as the demand
operate gas ranges as the
vide as a food preservation increased, the supply
preferred heat source. In
method can be traced companies began to
sous vide, it’s important
back to the mid-1960s, but develop better and less
to keep the temperature
it had much earlier roots. expensive versions for
of the water consistent to
Georges Pralus adopted appropriately sized
the parameter of the item
the method in 1974 after operations. Today, an
being cooked to result in
experimenting with foie immersion circulator
successful preparation.
gras. He noticed that the can be purchased from
On a gas range, this can
foie gras maintained its companies like TUCS that
prove nearly impossible,
appearance, did not lose develop all-inclusive tanks
especially over the
excess amounts of the in the thousands of gallons
extended periods of time
precious fats, and had size ($100,000+), all the
required. Also, to achieve
better texture. He began way down to the at-home
perfect uniformity in the
using the method on
cooking, you must circulate
various other products in
Continued on page 32
N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017 31Continued from page 3 1
versions by companies like wood offset smoker box
Anova Culinary ($100) that versions. This trend has
have smartphone apps to diversified many dishes
control effortlessly. Now and cuisines across
the trending sous-vide America in the past, and is
preparation methods can be projected to be even more
utilized by literally anyone, creative in 2017.
thanks to such innovative One invention that can
inventions. be attributed to this
SMOKING AND widespread popularity
PRESERVING ARE is The Smoking Gun by
TRENDING Polyscience ($99). This
gun is operated much like
Smoking and preserving,
the large offset wood-
like sous vide, have become
smoking equipment that
increasingly popular the
BBQ pitmasters have
past few years. Unlike sous
used for decades. A small
vide, these practices have
cage holds wood chips
been around for centuries.
or shavings. This cage
The most primitive
is attached to a motor-
versions of smoking were
operated fan designed
actually dehydrating via
to pull smoke (when you
smoke to preserve meats
light the wood with a small
for long excursions for
lighter or torch) and blow
nomads in early caveman
it through a directed hose,
days. More recently we’ve
allowing you to smoke
begun to use this method
single servings of anything!
for purpose of flavor
This hand-held smoking
instead of preservation,
apparatus has inspired
although it’s still used
trends in preparing
in specialty charcuterie
unconventional smoked
for preserved and cured
foods like vegetables,
meats. This trending style
soups, and garnishes to
of cookery has also forced
other indulgences like ice
manufacturing companies
cream and even cocktails.
to provide innovative
equipment and tools The American Culinary
necessary for execution. Federation predicts that IN SOUS VIDE, IT’S
the smoked foods trend
Smokers (smoking IMPORTANT TO KEEP THE
will not only continue,
equipment) can be found
but also evolve drastically temperature of the water
in literally hundreds of
through 2017. consistent to the parameter of
varieties—from upright
electric versions, to water the item being cooked to result in
smokers that incorporate
successful preparation.
moisture, to more basic
32 N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017PU R E E S/SAUCE S AN D M O LECU L AR fat-based substance, has created a fun and inventive new
GASTRONOMY trend on menus everywhere. This advance in science has
Another interesting trend on today’s menus is the use of allowed us all to experience the same transformations in
unconventional items in sauce and/or puree form. For cuisine that were previously reserved for food scientists
example, one of the hottest fall/winter trends this season and large corporate manufacturing operations.
is the use of butternut squash and pumpkin puree. MORE TRENDS, MORE GADGETS
Not that this is “new” or really even that inventive by
These examples are merely a few of the many advances
itself, but what chefs are doing with these items is quite
in innovative technology that emerge with and around
impressive.
the newest budding trends. These are vastly popular
I recently dined at Imperial Taproom in Canyon, Texas, today and are projected to trend in the next few years
where Chef Ethan Williams produced a version of as the availability of product and means become more
butternut squash puree that had notes of chicken stock, widespread. The more we explore the options that items
and acidic hints of balsamic vinegar (all while maintaining like the Immersion Circulator, The Smoking Gun, and
a vibrant orange appearance that I’d expect from a agar-agar give us access to, the more the trends will
butternut squash puree) that he paired with duck. While I likewise develop. Who knows? Maybe this time next year
mention this particular experience, many chefs across the the newest trend and innovation will have started from a
country are doing the very same thing with personal or necessity in your kitchen. E
regional twists.
How do we achieve such a creamy, smooth, yet thick
texture when using products like this that are not that
textured on their own? Essentially what we are doing is
taking a substance with loads of developed flavor, but
nappe consistency, and transforming them to a pudding- Dietary Manager
like consistency known as “puree” or “demi glace.” There
are several methods that have been around for ages like Online Certificate
the basic reduction, or using thickening agents like roux -Earn college credit
and slurry. The problem is reductions take loads of time -SCC provides
the preceptors
and constant surveillance, and the traditional thickening
-Classes meet
agents impart flavor that disrupts the delicate balance of ANFP’s requirements
ingredients like butternut squash. So, to parallel this trend,
science brings us molecular gastronomy. Food Service/
Hospitality Program
Molecular gastronomy refers to the physical and chemical
Lincoln, Nebraska
processes that happen when cooking. Even relatively
inexperienced cooks are combining physics and chemistry 800-642-4075 ext. 2528
principles to change the taste and texture of foods. Items or 402-437-2528
like agar-agar (1 HOUR
CE Questions CE
CBDM Approved
CULINARY CONNECTION
Reading Culinary Trends and Innovations and successfully completing these questions online has been approved for 1 hour
of continuing education for CDM, CFPPs. CE credit is available ONLINE ONLY. To earn 1 CE hour, purchase the online CE
quiz in the ANFP Marketplace. Visit www.ANFPonline.org/market, select “Publication,” then select “CE article” at left, then
search the title “Culinary Trends and Innovations” and purchase the article.
1. What does molecular gastronomy mean? 4. How many types of smoking equipment is/are there?
A. The variety of supermarket products available is as A. One
large as the cosmos B. Many
B. The physical and chemical processes that happen when C. Three
cooking
5. What’s the main reason for the smoked foods trend today?
C. That DNA determines what people like to eat
A. Preserving meat
2. Who was one of the first people credited with using sous- B. Imparting flavor
vide cookery? C. Health and fitness
A. Bobby Flay
6. What is agar-agar?
B. Georges Pralus
C. Benjamin Franklin A. A substance used to agitate soup
B. A chemical compound similar to plastic
3. What does sous vide mean? C. A substance derived from algae
A. Volunteer cook
7. How do trends and innovations relate?
B. Cooked yesterday
C. Under vacuum A. They parallel each other
B. They don’t relate
C. They are opposites
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34 N U T R I T I O N & F O O D S E R V I C E EDGE | Jan-Feb 2017You can also read