It Takes Two - Zalando Corporate
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It Takes
Two
How the Industry and Consumers
Can Close the Sustainability
Attitude-Behavior Gap in Fashion
1 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Publisher: ZALANDO SE Acknowledgements
Authors: Kate Heiny and David Schneider with contribution from The authors would like to thank the survey participants for their
Phillip Dornacher, Beth Greenaway, Olivia McNair, Susann Remke, contribution to the research as well as the report partners for
Kirsten Siegler sharing their perspectives and ideas during interviews. Our thanks
go to: adidas, Centre for Sustainable Fashion (London College
Copywriter: David Wigan
of Fashion), Filippa K, Global Fashion Agenda, H&M Group,
Concept & Art Direction: Given Agency McKinsey & Company, and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition.
We would also like to thank C Space, Krukow Behavioral Design
and Ogilvy for their collaboration on the report research.
The web version is available here.
Our thanks also go to all colleagues at Zalando who helped creating
Original version in English. The report is also available in German here. this report — especially Rubin Ritter as well as Jade Buddenberg,
Anne Carmer, Aurelie Caulier, Margaret Devlin, Sara Diez,
Svenja Do Thoi, Carolin Döring, Janine Duhre, Joelle Esmoris,
About Zalando Katrin Fox, Louisa Goltz, René Gribnitz, Anne-Vibe Hansen,
Zalando is Europe’s leading online platform for fashion and lifestyle. Founded Clemence Hermann, Marjorie Jochims, Nathalie Kempf, Stefan
in Berlin in 2008, we bring head-to-toe fashion to more than 38 million active Kesselhut, Christine Loof, Dshamila Mülller, Milena Ratzel, Lina
customers in 17 markets, offering clothing, footwear, accessories, and beauty. Reimers, Julien Slijan, Michal Subel, Sarah Thomas, Emma
The assortment of international brands ranges from world famous names to Thurmann, Julieta Varsano, Nadine Vazhayil and Sina Weneit.
local labels. Our platform is a one-stop fashion destination for inspiration, Particular thanks go to the team of Given Agency, who helped
innovation, and interaction. As Europe’s most fashionable tech company, we bring this project to life: Gemma Albone, Dan Ulf-Hansen,
work hard to find digital solutions for every aspect of the fashion journey: for Jim Kemp, Ellie McCall, Lisa Nemetz and Becky Willan.
our customers, partners and every valuable player in the Zalando story. Our
vision is to be the Starting Point for Fashion and a sustainable platform with a
net-positive impact for people and the planet. All rights reserved. Reproduction is strictly prohibited without prior permission from the publisher. Every effort has been made
to trace the copyright holders for this publication. Should any copyright holders have been inadvertently overlooked, Zalando
will make the necessary changes.
© 2021 ZALANDO SE
2 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Foreword�����������������������������������������������������������������������������03
Executive Summary������������������������������������������������������������05
Introduction������������������������������������������������������������������������07
Methodology�����������������������������������������������������������������������08
Exploring the Attitude-Behavior Gap.................................. 10
Consumer Attitudes: Seven Key Themes�������������������������� 14
How the Coronavirus Crisis Is Shifting Behaviors���21
Closing the Gap: 10 Recommendations for the Industry.��23
Lay the Foundations����������������������������������������������������24
Accelerate Change������������������������������������������������������27
Contents
Consumer Inspiration��������������������������������������������������������� 31
Conclusion��������������������������������������������������������������������������34
Appendix�����������������������������������������������������������������������������35
Foreword
3 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents The coronavirus crisis will go down as one of the
most challenging times in recent history, both in
Foreword terms of the humanitarian impact and its economic
Executive Summary consequences. Amid lockdowns in almost every
Introduction
country, we have all been required to come to terms
with new ways of living and working, and many things
Methodology
we previously took for granted have changed.
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap The European fashion industry will remember this time
Consumer Attitudes: as one of extreme jeopardy. Many companies have
Seven Key Themes
struggled to turn a profit, and the industry has faced
Closing the Gap: challenges including a near-halt to travel, store closures
10 Recommendations
for the Industry and a drop in demand that has had a significant impact
Consumer Inspiration
on supply chains. The year has also seen a sea-change
in consumer attitudes, especially when it comes to
Conclusion
sustainability and our role as “tomorrow’s ancestors.”
Appendix
Sustainability is defined as meeting our own needs
without compromising the ability of future generations to
meet their needs. In the context of declining biodiversity
and awareness of the potential for pandemics, it also
means that we should restore ecosystems damaged
by human activity. For many in the current generation,
these twin missions are at the top of their agenda.
4 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents At Zalando, we are keen to play our part, and this report As the title of this report says, It Takes Two —
builds on our do.MORE strategy, whereby we aim to meaning neither the industry nor our consumers can
Foreword build a sustainable fashion platform that has a net- make the change alone. We must act in concert.
Executive Summary positive impact on people and the planet. By 2023, we Here we present 10 recommendations for industry
Introduction
aim for 25% of our gross merchandise value to come stakeholders, which may help them close the attitude-
from more sustainable choices. We are committed to behavior gap. We also offer some actionable ideas for
Methodology
raising standards across the business, and by 2023 consumers — suggesting how they can animate their
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
we will choose our partners based on their alignment sustainable fashion ambitions. Given the coronavirus
with these standards. We recognize that, through our crisis, and the accelerating impacts of climate
Consumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes actions and priorities, we can influence how our partners change, there is little time to waste on both sides.
source and make products and help our customers
Closing the Gap: We would like to thank all of those who have contributed
10 Recommendations make sustainable choices. We hope these combined
for the Industry their energy, ideas and inspiration to helping make
efforts can move the dial on the sustainability agenda.
Consumer Inspiration
this report happen. Our thanks go to our survey
The in-depth research carried out for this report reveals participants and our report partners — adidas, Centre
Conclusion
that shopping sustainably is more important than ever, for Sustainable Fashion (London College of Fashion),
Appendix
but also that there is still a gap between what people Filippa K, Global Fashion Agenda, H&M Group, McKinsey
think and what they do. Based on dimensions that & Company, and Sustainable Apparel Coalition. We
shape shopping decisions, we analyze the gap and would also like to thank C Space, Krukow Behavioral
explain why shoppers struggle to translate their values Design, Ogilvy, and especially Given Agency. Finally,
into actions. For me, one of the most striking findings for all of those impacted by the themes discussed,
came from asking which single word our respondents we welcome your feedback and comments.
associated with sustainable fashion. The most common
David Schneider, Co-CEO, Zalando
was “guilty,” while the least common was “fun.” If we are
serious about putting sustainability at the center of the
business model, that is something we need to change.
Executive Summary
5 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents As the coronavirus pandemic continues to impact our Based on a proprietary ethnographic study, a detailed
lives and livelihoods, it is catalyzing a debate about the consumer survey and extensive conversations with
Foreword wider impacts of human actions. People are concerned our industry partners (see Methodology), this paper
Executive Summary about the way we live, issues of social justice and our shows that the fashion industry and its consumers are
Introduction
destruction of the environment. The global fashion significantly disconnected on sustainability issues.
industry is increasingly implicated in the debate, both From the industry perspective, there is a need to make
Methodology
because it faces significant challenges of its own and sustainable choices more attractive, realistic and
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
because many of its consumers are leading the movement accessible. Consumers, meanwhile, need to prioritize
for change. Two-thirds of fashion consumers say that sustainability in fashion as much as in other parts of
Consumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes sustainability has been more important to them since the their lives. Recycling is a prime example — a normal
Closing the Gap:
start of the crisis, and a similar proportion would boycott habit for many people, but not when it comes to their
10 Recommendations a brand that fails to do its part in protecting the planet.1 2 clothes. In fact, when we asked consumers to choose
for the Industry
from a selection of words to describe how they felt about
The imperative for more sustainable fashion is particularly
Consumer Inspiration sustainable fashion, the most often cited was “guilty.” The
urgent among younger consumers. More than 90% of
Conclusion implication is that consumers often feel that sustainability
Gen Z consumers (aged 18 to 24) say companies have
Appendix in fashion is a burden that they are unable to carry.
a responsibility to protect the environment and make a
positive social impact.3 Many of these consumers want Our research shows that the gap between attitudes and
their fashion decisions to reflect their values, including behaviors can be usefully assessed through 12 dimensions
embracing priorities such as second-hand, recycling and that shape sustainable shopping decisions: quality,
repair. However, research for this paper supports the fact value for money, brand responsibility, manufacturing,
that there is a gap between attitudes and behaviors, and price premium, ethical labor, individual responsibility,
that many consumers struggle to turn their sustainability influencers, repair, second-hand, disposal and
priorities into purchasing decisions. Moreover, as many transparency. Across all of the dimensions, we find a
as one in two fashion consumers is not even certain what disconnect between what people say and what they do.
sustainability means in a fashion context.4 Among striking examples, some 60% of consumers say
transparency is important to them, but only 20% seek
CEO Agenda 2020 – COVID 19 Edition,
out information when shopping. Around 53% highlight
1
GFA, May 2020.
2
The influence of ‘woke’ consumers on fashion, the need for ethical labor policies, but less than half of
McKinsey & Company, February 2019.
3
The influence of ‘woke’ consumers on fashion, that group researches the topic before buying.
McKinsey & Company, February 2019.
4
Zalando consumer survey: For details, see
chapter: Methodology
6 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Many consumers think it is important for brands, platforms 6. Boost
conversion on sustainable products with
and vendors to help them make more sustainable shopping motivating factors such as quality and fit
Foreword choices, our survey shows. Nearly three in five, meanwhile,
7. Influence wisely, balancing social voices with those
Executive Summary recognize that they have an important role to play and
of your customers and employees
Introduction
that they carry an individual responsibility for their fashion
choices. As the title of this report suggests, It Takes Two to 8. Integrate circularity throughout the product life-cycle
Methodology
make a difference.
Exploring the 9. Invest in second-hand
Attitude-Behavior Gap In light of our analysis, we make 10 recommendations
10. Help customers care for and repair their clothes
Consumer Attitudes: that may support fashion companies in moving the dial on
Seven Key Themes
sustainability. The first four are foundational principles,
Closing the Gap: which may be useful to industry participants taking their Some of our recommendations are relatively simple to
10 Recommendations
first steps on the journey. The final six are accelerators, implement. Others are more complex, and their execution
for the Industry
designed to ensure that fashion companies are able to will require the development of operational capabilities
Consumer Inspiration
consistently deliver on their ambitions. over time. In all cases, however, a precondition is likely
Conclusion to be a consistent and committed tone from the top, and
Appendix a strategy that reflects sustainability as both a business
Our Recommendations
imperative and a cultural mission.
1. ake steps toward transparency and bring your
T
In the spirit of It Takes Two, we also make suggestions
customers on the journey
that may help consumers embrace sustainability in their
2. S
peak a sustainability language that everyone can fashion decisions. Among our ideas, we look for ways
understand in which consumers can discuss and understand more
as well as engage companies in the debate. One near-
3. H
elp your customers buy into your sustainability
certainty is that we are likely to see consumers focus more
brand mission
on circularity in fashion over the next decade. We believe
4. Help your customers buy right, not more they will embrace recycling, reuse, resale, repair and
rentals — trends that are already picking up momentum
5. U
se data and technology to fix unsustainable
in some markets. Through these and other actions, we
discounting
together will build a cleaner, more transparent and more
caring fashion future.
Introduction
7 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents In this tumultuous time, sustainability is a powerful Still, the picture is not uniformly negative, and there
imperative. However, the world of fashion is often are signs that a more positive future can emerge from
Foreword unclear about how to implement sustainability at scale. the pandemic. With many stores shut, and demand
Executive Summary Companies face strategic and operational barriers, and remaining subdued, decision makers have had a chance
Introduction
consumers struggle to turn their sustainability goals to step back and review plans for the future. Given rising
into reality. Despite good intentions, just 20% of people consumer appetite for sustainable products and services,
Methodology
actively compare brands’ sustainability credentials when many companies are adapting their business models and
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
they are shopping, research for this paper shows, and preparing to emerge from the crisis stronger.
there is a gap between attitudes and behaviors across
Consumer Attitudes: The good news for the industry is that consumers do not
Seven Key Themes a range of dimensions.
demand perfection. Above all, they want to be able to trust
Closing the Gap: As the industry and its customers grapple with the brands and know where brands are on their sustainability
10 Recommendations
for the Industry sustainability challenge, the world is changing faster than journeys. To avoid the perception of greenwashing,
Consumer Inspiration
anyone could have expected. The coronavirus outbreak brands should quantify their impact wherever possible.
is impacting lives and livelihoods, and there is a sense of Consumers feel that these kinds of steps can take
Conclusion
evolution in the way we see our world and operate within the pressure off them. Equally, they would like more
Appendix
it. Two-thirds of consumers state that sustainability has information about which brands are not living up to the
become a more important priority for them since the start standards they expect.
of the outbreak.5 At the same time, the fashion industry
Our analysis focuses initially on the attitude-behavior
faces an economic challenge. Economic profit fell by
gap and discusses seven key themes — the underlying
around 93% in 2020, after rising 4% in 2019.6 European
reasons for the gap. We follow up with actionable
fashion revenues shrunk by almost 19% in 2020, amid
recommendations, aiming to inspire industry participants
sliding demand across segments and geographies.7
and consumers to close the gap between attitudes and
Companies leveraging digital have tended to perform
behaviors and move forward on the sustainability agenda.
better, but the aggregate picture is bleak, both among
brands and in the supply chain.
5
C
EO Agenda 2020 – COVID 19 Edition,
GFA, May 2020.
6
McKinsey Global Fashion Index, analysis of 326 listed
companies, McKinsey & Company, August 2020.
7
Euromonitor, Europe excl. Russia, January 2021.
Methodology
8 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents This report explores the gap between consumers’ Once we had completed the interviews, we went shopping
sustainability attitudes and behaviors.8 To inform our with our participants, observing their habits, decision-
Foreword work, we conducted a deep ethnographic study with making processes and the triggers. To see if they put
Executive Summary 12 Zalando customers from Germany, Sweden and their words into actions, we explored their wardrobes.
Introduction
England. The results of this work informed our consumer Here we tested the dynamics underlying the information
survey, in which we interviewed 2,500 consumers in the we had gathered. Finally, we probed deeper into our
Methodology
United Kingdom, Sweden, Italy, France and Germany participants’ relationships with sustainability and brands.
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
to better understand why many struggle to translate We explored the effectiveness of language and tone in
their sustainability beliefs into actions. Armed with the shaping purchasing decisions and identified major enablers
Consumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes results of these efforts, we reached out to our industry and inhibitors. The individual views of our core group are
Closing the Gap:
colleagues and assembled their ideas on how the industry quoted throughout this report.
10 Recommendations can promote sustainability and enable consumers to make
for the Industry The results of our research enabled us to identify 12
more sustainable decisions.
Consumer Inspiration
dimensions that play a role in attitudes toward sustainability
and fashion. These comprise quality, value for money, brand
Conclusion Ethnography responsibility, manufacturing, price premium, ethical labor,
Appendix
We started by immersing ourselves in the lives of our 12 individual responsibility, influencers, repair, second-hand,
customers, aiming to find out what was stopping them disposal and transparency.
from acting sustainably. The group (Emma, Christian,
Anita, Matilda, Marcus, Raine, Saskia, Christofer, Finbar,
Maximilian, Deborah and Egor, see Appendix) ranged
in age from 22 to 34 and represented a variety of
demographics and attitudes. Some described themselves
as “fashion obsessed” while others had different priorities.
Over a number of weeks before the coronavirus outbreak,
we held informal discussions in their homes and offices,
focusing on their attitudes toward fashion and their
influences — how they shop, why they shop, and their
feelings about sustainability.
8
In this report, “consumers” refers to survey
respondents, while “customers” refers to
customers of the businesses mentioned.
9 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Survey
Based on the 12 dimensions, we surveyed 2,500
Foreword
people in the United Kingdom, Sweden, Italy, France
Executive Summary
and Germany. We spoke to a range of consumers who
Introduction were interested in both sustainability and fashion:
Methodology
— 50% were Gen Z (aged 18–24) and 50%
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
were Millennials (aged 25–35)
Consumer Attitudes: — 50% identified as sustainable consumers and
Seven Key Themes
50% were actively engaged in fashion
Closing the Gap:
10 Recommendations — They were equally split between male and female
for the Industry
Consumer Inspiration
— Their education and income profiles varied
Conclusion We asked two questions in relation to each of the 12
Appendix dimensions: “How important is this dimension to you
when buying fashion?” and “How often do you do the
following — for example, check an item’s origin?” The
replies we received demonstrated the substantial gaps
between attitudes and behaviors, and these directly
informed our analysis and our recommendations.
Finally, we sense-checked our findings with our
industry partners and incorporated their views into
our results. We also conducted a separate analysis
focused on the direct impacts of the pandemic (see
How the Coronavirus Crisis Is Shifting Behaviors).Exploring the Attitude-Behavior Gap
11 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents An attitude-behavior gap in relation to sustainability and
labor conditions refers to a situation in which “individuals
Foreword exhibit positive attitudes but fail to execute on these
Executive Summary attitudes by engaging in responsible behaviors.”9 Here
Introduction
we explore the characteristics of the gap across 12 key
sustainability dimensions.
Methodology
Exploring the The results of our survey show that the gap varies
Attitude-Behavior Gap depending on the dimension (Exhibit 1). In respect of
Consumer Attitudes: quality and value for money, for example, it is relatively
Seven Key Themes
narrow. Some 58% of consumers in our survey view
Closing the Gap: long-lasting quality as important, and 52% say they often
10 Recommendations
for the Industry shop with this in mind. Similarly, 45% prioritize value for
Consumer Inspiration
money, and 35% say they regularly choose a deal over
a sustainable item.
Conclusion
Appendix Other times, the gap is wide. Some 60% of survey
respondents say that transparency is important to
them, but just 20% actively seek out information as
part of the purchasing process. Some 53% believe it is
important to buy from brands with ethical labor policies,
but only 23% ever investigate policies themselves.
(We recognize that there is a tendency to over-report “Our customers tell us that they care deeply about
socially desirable sentiments, which may impact some sustainability, but they really struggle to translate their
of our survey responses.) Similarly, 58% of consumers values into actions when they go into stores or shop
believe they should understand the product, including online. There is a gap, which we need to close if we are
the materials used. However, just 38% regularly check serious about making the industry more sustainable.”
the label for information. Kate Heiny, Director Sustainability, Zalando
9
The Attitude-Behavior Gap in Environmental
Consumerism, Shruti Gupta, Pennsylvania State
University/Abington, and Denise T. Ogden,
Pennsylvania State University/Lehigh Valley, 2006.12 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Around 60% of consumers say repair, second-hand and
sustainable disposal are important to them. Still, few have
Foreword embraced the circularity concept. Just 23% repair their
Executive Summary own clothes and only 25% regularly buy second-hand.
Introduction
A similar proportion pass clothes on rather than throwing
them away.
Methodology
Exploring the Our survey reveals that consumers expect the industry
Attitude-Behavior Gap to help them do more in these endeavors. Over half think
Consumer Attitudes: it is important for brands, online platforms and vendors
Seven Key Themes
to take the pressure off them by taking steps toward
Closing the Gap: sustainability. However, consumers also want to feel they
10 Recommendations
for the Industry can play a useful role. Some 58% say it is important
Consumer Inspiration
for them personally to have an impact on fashion
sustainability. As the title of this report suggests,
Conclusion
It Takes Two. When it comes to making change happen,
Appendix
the industry and consumers must work together.13 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Exhibit 1. The Attitude-Behavior Gap Across 12 Dimensions of Sustainable Purchasing Decisions
Foreword
Executive Summary Increasing gap
Introduction 63%
Methodology Attitude 58% 59%
55%
58% 61% 60%
54%
Exploring the Gap 53% 52%
Attitude-Behavior Gap 47%
Consumer Attitudes: Behavior 52% 45%
Seven Key Themes
Closing the Gap:
10 Recommendations 39% 38%
for the Industry 35%
Consumer Inspiration
26% 25% 25%
Conclusion 23% 23% 23%
18% 20%
Appendix
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Attitude: Behavior:
What consumers say is important to them How these beliefs shape their behavior in realityConsumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes15 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents The responses we received to our survey and Furthermore, 44% feel sustainable choices in other
ethnographic study reveal a variety of attitudes and parts of their lives compensate for less sustainable
Foreword opinions. However, seven key themes encapsulate how choices in fashion.
Executive Summary consumers feel about sustainability in fashion.
Still, many consumers are making an effort. Some 56%
Introduction would be prepared to make some sacrifices to be more
Methodology
Theme 1. Consumers Care a Lot About Sustainability — sustainable — although they would not change how they
but Less About Sustainable Fashion shop entirely.
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
Two in three consumers say sustainability is important “I know I’m a bit of a hypocrite with my fashion actions,
Consumer Attitudes: in their daily lives. Indeed, half are taking steps toward but I don’t want to feel guilty when I’m trying my best.
Seven Key Themes
reducing waste and consumption in general (Exhibit 2). I don’t fly anymore, but fashion is my one escape — it’s
Closing the Gap:
10 Recommendations
Sustainability at home is more prominent in consumers’ ‘me time’.” Emma, 33, Stockholm, SE (ethnographic
for the Industry minds than sustainable fashion. For example, some 72% study participant)10
Consumer Inspiration say it is important to reduce food, plastic and water
Conclusion
waste, but only 54% say the same about fashion. Just
38% prioritize second-hand fashion.
Appendix
One reason for the gap between daily attitudes and
fashion attitudes is that fashion commands a special
place in people’s lives. Some 65% of women and 56%
of men feel their self-confidence is “strongly influenced”
by the clothes they wear. Indeed, many fashion
consumers associate fashion with self-expression — they
want to consume the fashion they enjoy. Conversely,
when it comes to sustainable fashion, the most common
sentiment is guilt, and half of consumers are not even
sure what sustainability in the context of fashion means.
10
Quotes by ethnographic study participants are
tagged with the participant’s first name.16 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Exhibit 2. Consumers Support Sustainability
s
in Multiple Aspects of Their Lives
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Foreword
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Executive Summary
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Introduction
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Methodology
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Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
Reduce my waste
Consumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes (e.g. water, food, plastic) 35% 25% 17% 10% 7% 6%
Closing the Gap:
10 Recommendations Reduce my consumption
for the Industry (e.g. electricity, meat) 27% 24% 21% 12% 8% 9%
Consumer Inspiration
Conclusion Avoid or reduce plane
travel and car use 16% 19% 22% 16% 12% 15%
Appendix
Buy new clothes that
were made from 7% 15% 31% 23% 14% 10%
sustainable materials
Buy second-hand clothes
6% 14% 23% 17% 16% 25%
Buy second-hand goods
(e.g. books, furniture) 6% 14% 28% 20% 16% 16%
Buy new goods (e.g. textiles,
furniture) that were made 6% 15% 28% 23% 18% 11%
from sustainable materials17 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Theme 2. Sustainability Still Comes After Value, Exhibit 3. Consumers Rated Nine Fashion
Quality and Fit Motivators in Order or Importance
Foreword
When asked about their fashion purchasing decisions,
Executive Summary
just 52% and 58% of consumers, respectively, mention
Introduction sustainable production and ethical labor policies (Exhibit
Methodology 3). Conversely, some 81% say value for money is their
Exploring the priority and 78% focus on the perfect fit. We recognize
Attitude-Behavior Gap that these requirements are unlikely ever to be anything
Consumer Attitudes: other than primary. However, it may be possible to narrow
Seven Key Themes
the gap between the baseline focus on value and fit and
Closing the Gap: sustainability considerations.
10 Recommendations
for the Industry
Drilling down into individual behaviors, just 38% of people
Consumer Inspiration buy fashion based on the sustainability of production
Conclusion processes, and just 23% do so because of the brand’s labor
Appendix policy. Some 41% believe fashion shopping is “already enough
of a chore,” without having to think about sustainability.
“If something fits right, that’s the most important thing for
me. I’m not buying something because half of the profits
will go to the environment. It just doesn’t convince me.”
Christian, 30, Hamburg, DE Ethical labor policies 52%
Sustainable production 58%
Some 74% of consumers say that picking clothes made of Fills in gaps in my wardrobe 60%
durable materials is important, but few are confident they Variety in my wardrobe 62%
can make a judgement on how long any item will last. Only Getting a discount 65%
38% regularly check the label for information. For most, the A cheap price 65%
baseline quality of high-street fashion is perceived as being Long-lasting materials 74%
too low, with many consumers reporting faulty or damaged The perfect fit 78%
items after minimal wear. This is cited as evidence of declining Value for money 81%
quality across both fast-fashion and luxury brands and may be
a barrier to circularity that the industry needs to address.18 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Theme 3. Discounts Can Lead to Overconsumption, Theme 4. Many Influencers Are Not Seen as Credible on
Which in Turn Creates Buyer’s Regret Sustainability Issues
Foreword
The satisfaction of finding a bargain can be intense, Most consumers are skeptical about the role that
Executive Summary
but when the joy is short-lived it can lead to compulsive influencers play in discussing sustainability issues.
Introduction purchases and overconsumption. For some of our Still, some 52% believe it is important for someone to
Methodology participants, the allure of a bargain is so strong that if they show them how to be more sustainable. The message,
Exploring the do not get a deal, they feel they have been unsuccessful. therefore, is that if influencers promote sustainability,
Attitude-Behavior Gap Some 65% of consumers say they are looking for a low they must first establish their credibility.
Consumer Attitudes: price and/or discount when buying clothes.
Seven Key Themes A challenge for the industry is that there is no single voice
Closing the Gap:
Some 52% of females and 46% of males say the “thrill of authority for “sustainable fashion.” Some consumers
10 Recommendations of the purchase” is important or very important. This in our survey cite the absence of a fashion “leader”
for the Industry
suggests that a common pattern of behavior may be for in the mold of Swedish activist Greta Thunberg. Still,
Consumer Inspiration consumers to focus primarily on deals and end up buying while nearly half of consumers would be open to getting
Conclusion more than they intended. sustainable fashion advice from a credible influencer, only
Appendix 18% believe it would enable them to shop sustainably.
Many consumers understand that impulsive, bargain-
seeking behavior does not sit well with their sustainability Reflecting the lack of trust in influencers, many
beliefs. When the initial excitement of purchase has consumers say their friends and family are more likely to
abated, there is often a sense of regret. Some 82% say encourage and inspire behavior change. Indeed, some
they have felt some form of regret after shopping, with 35% turn to friends and family for advice, while 38% say
28% of that group concerned about the impact on the social media is their biggest influence. This suggests that,
planet and considerations such as the conditions in which despite the challenges, there is a common desire for more
the product was made. Notably, discounting can cut both guidance on sustainability issues.
ways. While 35% state that a deal may inhibit sustainable
“Obviously, we have Greta, but I think we’re still missing
purchases, some 54% say that a rewards scheme would
a role model in the fashion industry.” Deborah, 24,
encourage them to purchase more sustainable fashion. The
Lund, SE
enthusiasm for rewards may indicate that consumers are
looking to brands to help them make a more positive impact.19 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Theme 5. At the “End” of Product Life, Theme 6. Second-Hand Picking Up
Consumers Can’t Reflect Their Values Momentum but Still Under-Appreciated
Foreword
Less than 1% of material in clothing is recycled into new Some 61% of consumers believe that buying second-
Executive Summary
garments.11 In addition, consumers miss out on $460 hand clothes is a great way to shop sustainably. 49% of
Introduction billion of value each year by throwing away clothes; it is customers believe brands offering a second hand section
Methodology common for garments to be discarded after just seven or outlet would help them act more sustainably. But only
Exploring the to ten wears.12 Still, consumers want to pass on clothes, 25% of the group actually buy second-hand clothes on
Attitude-Behavior Gap whether by donating, trading or selling, and 63% believe a regular basis. Sweden (27%) and France (30%) lead
Consumer Attitudes: it is important their clothes get a new lease of life rather the way.
Seven Key Themes
than heading to landfill.
Closing the Gap:
Many are citing concerns over hygiene and a lack of
10 Recommendations Some of the industry’s leading players have started to convenient options, with hygiene being an even bigger
for the Industry
move beyond the current take-make-dispose model, issue among men (43%) than women (30%).13
Consumer Inspiration launching schemes to keep products and materials in
“If it’s a dress, I’ll always Depop it. One girl’s trash
Conclusion use and design waste out of the system. Recycling, take-
is another girl’s treasure!” Saskia, 22, Manchester, UK
Appendix back and resale offers are increasingly common in stores
and online. In general, female consumers view passing Where consumers buy second-hand, digital channels are
on clothes as more important (69%) than males (55%). a key enabler, alongside local second-hand shops and
However, consumers feel that the industry could do more to flea markets. We estimate the global second-hand market
facilitate initiatives, and 51% believe it would help them act will grow by 15 to 20% per year over the next five years.
more sustainably if brands bought clothes back from them. Some online second-hand players in developed markets
could even double their annual growth.14
“Brands need to do bigger operational and system
changes, which we aren’t capable of as customers. It’s
easy for me to dispose, and I do it, but I’m sure there’s
more I could do.” Christofer, 33, Lund, SE
11
A New Textiles Economy, Ellen MacArthur
Foundation, 2017.
12
Fashion and the Circular Economy, Ellen MacArthur
Foundation, 2017.
13
Zalando’s Buzz Survey Pre-Owned Fashion, 2,727
Zalando customers in Germany, Q4 2019.
14
The Consumers Behind Fashion’s Growing
Second-hand Market, Boston Consulting Group,
October 202020 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Theme 7. Consumers Want to Keep Clothes for Longer but Exhibit 4. The Industry is not Meeting Consumer
Lack Knowledge on Care and Repair Demand for Circularity Solutions
> 1% 23%
Foreword
The input we received for our ethnographic study
Executive Summary
suggests consumers are increasingly focused on
Introduction repairing and mending.
Methodology
“I never learned how to sew in school, but I’m glad I took of clothes that are of consumers are
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
the time to teach myself.” Matilda, 24, Hamburg, DE collected are recycled routinely repairing their
into new garments. own clothes today, or
Consumer Attitudes: That sentiment is echoed in our consumer survey, in which
Seven Key Themes taking them for repair.
some 58% of respondents say they think it is important to
Closing the Gap: repair clothing, particularly when it comes to high-value or
10 Recommendations
63% 61%
for the Industry favorite items.
Consumer Inspiration Still, the attitude-behavior gap is substantial — just
Conclusion 23% of consumers routinely repair their clothes or take
Appendix them for repair. A commonly cited reason is a lack of
of consumers believe it of consumers believe that
knowledge, and consumers often fall back on friends or
is important their clothes second-hand is a good
relatives. In many cases, they would like to see brands
gain a new life rather way to shop sustainably,
doing more to help. One in two consumers believe that if
than head to landfill. and 38% believe it is
brands and retailers offered mending services, they would
important to buy second-
be able to act more sustainably.
hand clothes, but only
25% routinely shop
second-hand.21 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents
How the Coronavirus Crisis In addition, consumers have been more focused on
disposals — two in five people have had a “clear-
Foreword Is Shifting Behaviors out” during the pandemic, with two in three giving
Executive Summary unwanted clothes to charity. In one positive trend,
Introduction The coronavirus pandemic is first and foremost the proportion of people actively committed to
a humanitarian crisis. However, it is also having a stopping clothing waste rose to 50% in 2020, from
Methodology
significant impact on the global economy and consumer 31% in 2017.19 Indeed, Zalando customers sold more
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap behaviors. Perhaps the most significant change is than 100,000 items to the business within just one
that it has highlighted the fragility of human and month of the launch of our “Pre-owned” category.
Consumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes planetary ecosystems, and shown how important it is Still, the industry has found that old habits die
Closing the Gap: for humans to live in harmony with their environment. hard. Some 60% of respondents to one industry
10 Recommendations
for the Industry
As a result of the crisis, two-thirds of consumers say survey say they had implemented more discounting
it has become even more important to limit climate as a result of the coronavirus outbreak, amid high
Consumer Inspiration
change, and around 90% believe pollution should be levels of overstocking, and 70% expect to do more
Conclusion
reduced as a priority.15 At a macro level, we also see discounting.20 Around 60% of retailers describe their
Appendix this behavior change among Zalando customers. The current level of discounting as “unsustainable.”
share of active customers buying more sustainable
items more than doubled to 50% between January
and December 2020. Our sustainable assortment To emerge successfully from the
also tripled over the same period, suggesting this also pandemic, companies need to
may have been a factor in purchasing decisions.16 lead with values of sustainability
and compassion for the health,
The pandemic has had a significant impact on people’s
safety, and well-being of workers
confidence, job security and earnings. As a result,
15
It’s time to rewire the fashion system: State of Fashion around the world, especially
coronavirus update, McKinsey & Company, April 2020. people are even more concerned about the value,
16
Zalando Sustainability Progress Report, those most vulnerable.”
corporate.zalando.com, Zalando, March 2021 price and longevity of their clothes. Some 71% have
It’s time to rewire the fashion system: State of Fashion
invested in higher-quality garments during the outbreak, Amina Razvi, Executive Director,
17
coronavirus update, McKinsey & Company, April 2020.
18
Internal Zalando COVID-19 Research Survey, 5,119 despite a widespread increase in price sensitivity.17 18 Sustainable Apparel Coalition
participants (662 Zalando customers) in Germany,
France, Italy, Spain and Sweden, Zalando, April 2020.
19
Citizens and clothing behaviours during
lockdown, WRAP, June 2020.
20
Drapers Investigates: the impact of promotions
in a pandemic, Drapers, June 2020.22 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents There are other, more subtle changes in progress. Some
34% of 18- to 34-year-olds say they now watch more
Foreword influencer content during and because of the pandemic.
Executive Summary Having said that, 82% of the same group report they
Introduction
have a lower tolerance for regular advertising.21
Methodology In the early days of the pandemic, there was a
Exploring the backlash against “showing off” and lavish lifestyles.
Attitude-Behavior Gap Instead, there was a desire for authenticity, and
Consumer Attitudes: trust has emerged as a critical theme — 70% of
Seven Key Themes
consumers said in May 2020 they expected to stick
Closing the Gap: with brands they trusted during the crisis.22
10 Recommendations
for the Industry
Consumer Inspiration
Conclusion
Appendix
21
Brands Look Beyond COVID-19 For Role
of Social Media Influencers (Fullscreen
study), Forbes, June 2020
Updated Sustainability Agenda to Guide
22
Fashion Leaders Through COVID-19
Crisis, GFA CEO Agenda, May 2020Closing the Gap: 10 Recommendations for the Industry
24 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Fashion companies have an opportunity to close the View transparency as a creative opportunity. Share
attitude-behavior gap through their own operations and stories that go deeper into your production processes and
Foreword by working with consumers. We believe we can motivate show how you are becoming more sustainable throughout
Executive Summary changes in behavior, communicate more effectively and the value chain. Spotlight production visits or audits,
Introduction
work to scale circularity. Together with our partners, we product design processes and sustainability partnerships.
have developed 10 recommendations to support the Be humble and do not overclaim your progress.
Methodology
industry in closing the gap. We offer four solutions that
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
may help companies kick-start their journey, and six more
One example is our H&M
for companies that are ready to accelerate their efforts.
Consumer Attitudes: Group brand Monki, where
Seven Key Themes
our colleagues want to have
Lay the Foundations
Closing the Gap: an open dialogue with their
10 Recommendations
for the Industry community. By collecting
Consumer Inspiration
common questions via
Recommendation 1. Take Steps Toward Transparency social media, they are
Conclusion and Bring Your Customers on the Journey able to address how they
Appendix
Boost transparency by sharing supply chain information work with sustainability
with your customers and/or publishing photos of supplier throughout the supply
factories on your website. Move toward being open about chain, production, people in factories and living
your impacts and progress. wages, but also how they are thinking ahead, what
they dream to do and change and how they believe
“I would invite other brands to find the courage to be as in a different fashion industry in the future.”
transparent as possible in the progress toward a more
sustainable fashion future, as well as challenges ahead. Hanna Hallin, Global Sustainability Manager,
It is not about being perfect, and it certainly isn’t easy Treadler (H&M Group)
to always feel confident in what you know, but we
need to dare be honest and vulnerable to open up for
impactful collaborations change.” Hanna Hallin, Global
Sustainability Manager, Treadler (H&M Group)25 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Recommendation 2. Speak a Sustainability Language That Make standardized and trusted sustainability information
Everyone Can Understand available to consumers in an easy to understand and
Foreword relatable way:
Work with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition and Higg
Executive Summary
Index tools to create industry-wide sustainability
Introduction standards, based on a common language, and leveraging
The biggest blocker for
Methodology data from brands, retailers and factories. Ensure that the
consumers shopping for
Exploring the language used is easy for customers to understand and
sustainable fashion is complexity
Attitude-Behavior Gap consistent across the industry. Find out more here.
and trust. We must communicate
Consumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes “Brands must communicate their sustainability efforts in sustainability in a simple and
Closing the Gap:
a way that both resonates with consumer values and is credible way across platforms.
10 Recommendations concise, comparable, and verifiable. Clear graphics and That’s why we now offer multiple
for the Industry
language are key to answer questions such as what steps ways to discover products that
Consumer Inspiration is the brand taking to improve social and environmental contribute to the impact areas
Conclusion performance? How does the company’s performance that our customers care about
Appendix this year compare to that of last year? Where is it heading the most — animal welfare, reused materials, worker
in its sustainability journey? Brands can communicate wellbeing, water conservation, reducing emissions and
this journey to consumers and stakeholders using extending the life of fashion. I’m confident that by using
standardized and trusted Higg Index data. They can a sustainability language that everyone can understand,
also expand the narrative across their consumer-facing we can help our customers bridge the gap between their
channels, including product pages, social media, values and their fashion choices.”
websites and advertising.” Amina Razvi, Executive
Julien Slijan, Director Sustainability Digital Experience,
Director, Sustainable Apparel Coalition
Zalando26 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents Recommendation 3. Help Your Customers Buy Recommendation 4. Help Your Customers Buy Right,
Into Your Sustainability Brand Mission Not More
Foreword
Identify and invest in the changes that will make the Create awareness around more sustainable products
Executive Summary
biggest impact for your business and on your customers. and choices, and the benefits that these bring. When
Introduction Would cutting back on plastics make an impression, or communicating with your customers, take the product
Methodology should you focus on circularity? When you have identified life-cycle into account, so they can understand the
Exploring the your mission, tell your customers about it at suitable range of sustainable options available at every stage.
Attitude-Behavior Gap touchpoints on their journeys.
Consumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes
Closing the Gap:
10 Recommendations
It’s not just about product I t's best not to approach these
for the Industry sustainability; it’s also about conversations in a way that
Consumer Inspiration offering people an opportunity makes people feel bad about
Conclusion
to create change together with their consumption behavior.
us. Looking at our partnership The statistics regarding
Appendix
with Parley, we increased overconsumption can be
awareness around the issue overwhelming and confusing,
of ocean pollution and plastic so it’s important to provide
waste and offered solutions. But clear and focused messaging.”
we didn’t stop there — we also
Jodi Everding, Fabric, Trim & Sustainability Manager,
launched ‘Run for the Oceans’, which mobilized runners
Filippa K
all around the world to run for a good cause. So far,
around 3 million people have taken part! People love to
be part of something bigger than themselves.”
Philipp Meister, Senior Director Sustainability Strategy,
adidas27 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Accelerate Change
Contents
Big data and machine learning
play a central role in smart
Foreword
planning. Whereas traditional
Recommendation 5. Use Data and Technology forecasting is all about the
Executive Summary
to Fix Unsustainable Discounting numbers, and using trends and
Introduction
Tackle overstocking and unlock efficiencies through better seasonality observations to
Methodology predict outcomes, predictive
planning and streamlined operational capabilities. Begin by
Exploring the
optimizing your operations with smart planning and digital analytics can inform better
Attitude-Behavior Gap
systems. Invest in machine learning and AI to improve your planning. It’s an analytics
Consumer Attitudes: method that uses both new and
Seven Key Themes forecasting. Go one step further by exploring new business
models, such as on-demand production capabilities. historical data to predict activity, behavior, and trends.
Closing the Gap:
10 Recommendations
In our predictive forecasting, we show the product to
for the Industry customers in advance and evaluate the correlation
Consumer Inspiration The main issue with between reviews and future sales. This information
Conclusion overproduction is that it is can inform more accurate production planning.”
Appendix economically feasible to produce Sara Diez, Vice President Womenswear and Private
more than what is sold in the Label Sourcing, Zalando
first place at full price, meaning
there is a disconnect between the
value of fashion products, the Recommendation 6. Boost Conversion on Sustainable
amount of work and resources Products with Motivating Factors Such as Quality and Fit
that go into producing them and
how they are marketed. Industry Since value, quality and fit trump sustainability as
leaders have a great opportunity to realign fashion’s motivators, use smart merchandising to position
seasonality and to evaluate the lifespan of collections.” sustainable products around these benefits. For instance,
highlight the quality benefits of organic cotton and
Morten Lehmann, Chief Sustainability Officer, Global communicate “cost-per-wear” to show value for money.
Fashion Agenda Present products as investments that will stand the test
of time.28 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents “It might seem like a challenge to afford a more expensive/ Our co-curators — women that
well-made/classic coat to one bought from a fast-fashion we love and who inspire us —
Foreword retailer, but if you consider how often you can wear the are playing an important role
Executive Summary coat and how many years you can keep it — because it’s by sharing their sustainable
Introduction
going to hold its quality and value — then you can see curations and inspiration in
how the cost-per-wear of the higher-ticket coat makes it a an engaging way. It would be
Methodology
better value for the money.” Jodi Everding, Fabric, Trim & a dream if all our customers
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
Sustainability Manager, Filippa K would say, ‘Yes, I can do this too.’
Basically, sustainability made
Consumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes Recommendation 7. Influence Wisely, Balancing Social easy. We know that many people
Closing the Gap: Voices With Those of Your Customers and Employees want to live a more sustainable life and we are here to
10 Recommendations empower them to do so.”
for the Industry Balance social voices and give your customers credible
Consumer Inspiration role models by showcasing the sustainability journeys Samuel Fernström, Managing Director, itsapark
Conclusion of relatable people. Use micro-influencers, or let your
Appendix
employees and customers shine in your marketing
campaigns. Seek out new levers that may help convey Recommendation 8. Integrate Circularity Throughout
messaging — leverage your advertising program, stand up the Product Life-Cycle
for topics that your customers care about, and align your
communication strategy with your brand values. Upskill your team in circular design, combat the challenge
of overstocking, and pilot and test new business models
such as resale or rental. Review the impact of your take-
back schemes and reference learnings to scale your
programs. Find out what the industry is doing to make
fashion circular here.29 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents If everyone came together by “There are stats out there showing how the second-
2030, the industry could be hand market will overtake fast fashion in the next
Foreword 20% circular, which in itself decade — we know that increasing the longevity
Executive Summary would cut about 150 million of our clothes is key to outweighing the impact
Introduction
tonnes of greenhouse gases. On of their production.” Jodi Everding, Fabric,
the whole, take-back remains Trim & Sustainability Manager, Filippa K
Methodology
a key stumbling block. Brands
Exploring the “As we set out in our sustainability strategy, it is our goal
Attitude-Behavior Gap
must come together to innovate
by 2023 to apply the principles of circularity and extend
around logistics and the recycling
Consumer Attitudes: the life of at least 50 million fashion products. This is
Seven Key Themes process, which will require
why we are introducing our customers to pre-owned
Closing the Gap:
investment in automation and
fashion, and plan to make selling second-hand clothing
10 Recommendations infrastructure. There is an openness from customers
for the Industry as easy as buying. We know that younger consumers are
to engage with take-back schemes, but the industry
Consumer Inspiration
eager to shop second-hand, with growth of 37% among
needs to build the technical capabilities to execute.”
Millennials and 46% among Gen Z between 2017 and
Conclusion
Karl-Hendrik Magnus, Senior Partner, 2019.” Kate Heiny, Director Sustainability, Zalando
Appendix
McKinsey & Company
Recommendation 10. Help Your Customers
Care for and Repair Their Clothes
Recommendation 9. Invest in Second-Hand
Stay in contact with your customers on after-purchase
Fight the second-hand stigma by showcasing new and care. Provide care instructions, for example on how to
second-hand together in marketing campaigns, retail wash or store garments to ensure that they last. This
environments and on social media. Add second-hand will both help your customers care for their clothes and
schemes in-store and online, or partner with resale foster engagement and loyalty. In addition, by providing
specialists. Help your customers see that second-hand information after purchase, you give your customers a
is as good as new. reason to get back in touch. Finally, when your customers
love specific items, there is an impetus to connect with
the brand over a longer period of time.30 Attitude-Behavior Gap Report
Contents We recommend that fashion companies use stores to
host events at which customers can learn how to repair.
Foreword They should also make it easier for customers to find
Executive Summary repair shops or tailors close by, for example by creating
Introduction
a directory of recommended partners.
Methodology
Exploring the
Attitude-Behavior Gap
If the global average lifetime
of clothing increases from
Consumer Attitudes:
Seven Key Themes three to four years — closer to
Closing the Gap:
the upper end of the average
10 Recommendations lifetime currently — it would
for the Industry
reduce emissions substantially.
Consumer Inspiration This needs to be driven by
Conclusion consumer awareness, as well
Appendix as improved durability in
product offerings.”
Anna Granskog, Partner, McKinsey & CompanyYou can also read
