NORTHERN Explore I MT RUAPEHU - Huw Kingston
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Explore I MT RUAPEHU
NORTHERN
106
Explore I MT RUAPEHU
AUCKLAND
EXPOSURE
Skiing in NZ’s volcanic northern resorts is set to
Mt Ruapehu
erupt as powder hounds explore new slopes
WORDS HUW KINGSTON
107
The high
life
PHOTOGRAPHY MT RUAPEHU
Explore I MT RUAPEHU
L
Our first day in Taupō was
a day for the thermals
ook Papa,
look! Wow.
Wow.” These
were the only
words my
10-year-old grandson
Anders could get out. The
two of us had taken the
Knoll Ridge T-Bar to the
top. There he’d spotted
the classic crater summit
of Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt
Doom in The Lord of the
Rings films) floating on a
sea of clouds beyond the
Pinnacles – the jagged
rocky ridge that forms
the eastern boundary of
Whakapapa resort. His
words were spot on.
Australian skiers and
108 boarders have long been from Auckland Airport
scooting across to New all manner of storm and
Zealand’s South Island rain warnings were in
for a snow fix. But rising place – sheep were surely
beyond the southern blowing across the road in
shores of Lake Taupō on front of us. One guarantee
the North Island is the about any holiday in New
volcano of Mt Ruapehu. Zealand, however, is that
On its flanks are two ski whatever the season or
resorts, Whakapapa and weather, there are always
Turoa, which offer the plenty of options. The bad
Snow-capped peaks reflected
largest areas, the longest weather made our first in Lake Taupō. ABOVE: Orakei
runs and the highest day in Taupō perfect for
Korako Geothermal Area.
elevation in New Zealand. exploring the geothermal
These facts have slipped wonderland of Orakei
well under the radar of Korako. We marvelled
PHOTOGRAPHY VISIT RUAPEHU, DESTINATION GREAT LAKE TAUPO
most snow watchers on calm waters of Lake for a few private club
at the bubbling geysers
this side of the Tasman. Taupō, New Zealand’s lodges. The nearest is at
and melted-chocolate-
But following a $20 largest and deepest lake. Whakapapa Village 6km
like mud pools, before
million upgrade over Whakapapa, on the below the resort and at
being mesmerised by the
the past two years – with north side of Ruapehu, is the hamlet of National
glass blowers at the Lava
further investment a 40-minute drive from Park, 25 minutes away.
Glass Factory.
planned – these ski Turangi, the nearest Many stay at Taupō or
resorts are about to erupt. Clear skies ahead town of any size, and a Turangi after driving in
The clear weather on Blue skies greeted us on further 40 minutes from from Auckland.
the summit of Whakapapa our second day and we Taupō. As with most The ski resort itself
was in contrast to our stopped off on the drive NZ ski areas, there’s no encompasses Whakapapa
first day in the region. to Whakapapa to skim accommodation on the and Happy Valley – a
On the four-hour drive stones across the mirror- mountain itself, save learner’s paradise
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Explore I MT RUAPEHU
A quick
learner
A beginner learns the ropes in
Happy Valley on Whakapapa.
110
at the 1630-metre base area of mainly blue and Happy Valley Rising above this point
of the resort. Courtesy black runs dropping into is the true summit of Mt
of the aforementioned bowls and valleys, or can thus be Ruapehu, 2797-metre
investment, the sheltered, slipping over volcanic topped up Tahurangi, the highest
wide valley now has a ridges. point on the North Island.
series of four covered My wife Wendy injured throughout In comparison to
carpet lifts, a double her wrist on the first day, the season Whakapapa, Turoa has
chairlift and an elevator
to take you up and down
but was happy to sit in the
Knoll Ridge Café to take
and now opens wider runs, allowing the
kids to practice their turns
to the main resort base. in the views and watch early in June with confidence down
There’s a café and ski Anders and his 12-year- Little Bowl, Boneyard,
hire too. Happy Valley is old sister Anna ripping it fly-fishing in the world Whynot and others. On-
also the home of the new up on Shirt Front, Gollum was. “Head to NZ and the mountain food at both
Snow Factory; basically and other runs. The fact Tongariro River,” he was resorts was similarly
a huge freezer where Anna happened to have told, so he did and fell in priced to off-mountain
snowflakes are carved off picked Mt Ruapehu for love with the area. David – a major consideration
and blown out onto the a major school project was glad he had. for families. We also
slopes in temperatures somehow justified Turoa, the other resort, appreciated that food
up to 25 degrees. Happy her missing a week of is on the south-west corner there was served using
Valley can thus be topped school. This was research of Mt Ruapehu, and can real plates and cups,
up throughout the season after all … also be accessed with a rather than the throwaway
and now opens early Off on my own, I Mt Ruapehu lift pass. It is variety.
in June, regardless of
PHOTOGRAPHY MT RUAPEHU
shared a chairlift with accessed from the pretty The icing on the cake at
natural snowfalls. David, who worked at town of Ohakune. At 2322 Turoa, at least for Anna
Heading uphill Whakapapa. He told me metres, Turoa boasts New and Anders, was meeting
Above Happy Valley the how his German father, as Zealand’s highest chairlift Fire, the resort’s search
new Rangatira Express an 18-year-old in Berlin, and the longest vertical and rescue dog. As black
chair opens up a huge asked where the best descent at 722 metres. as the lava fields of
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Explore I MT RUAPEHU
Heading uphill to Turoa's
runs. BELOW: Chair-lift
selfies on Turoa.
112
Rumbling away of walking, kayaking, hot
In the days we skied on springs, mountain biking
Ruapehu there was a and much more, was best
certain vibe that came summarised by Anders.
from sliding down an As we dropped the rental
active volcano. Perhaps 4WD back at Auckland
this was because we Airport, he announced:
were new to snowsports “I don’t want to leave
on a volcano, but many New Zealand. Maybe I’ll
local skiers and boarders just go home, say goodbye
told us they felt a strong to my friends, and move
affinity with that aspect of here.”
the mountain. It certainly
meant a natural bubbling Huw Kingston was a guest
of Destination Great Lake
his mountain, Fire had knowledge. Indeed many hot spa was never too far
Taupō, greatlaketaupo.com,
replaced the recently locals told us that on the away to soothe ski-weary North Island Ski Holiday.
retired Ice. His handler same day, on the same muscles. That said, the northislandskiholiday.com
Couchy has been on the mountain, Turoa and posters in the toilets mtruapehu.com
mountain for nearly Whakapapa could have advising what to do in the
40 years. And now, as very different weather. event of an eruption made
well as his dog handling In the ski patrol room I interesting reading. Travel info
role, Couchy puts his also chatted with Tup, a Our week at Ruapehu,
PHOTOGRAPHY MT RUAPEHU
experience to use as mere 35-year veteran of and in the wider Great Jetstar offers great
the resort weather Turoa. Tup, of Māori- Lake Taupō region, had low fares to Auckland
and extensive car hire
forecaster. It is one thing Irish-Dutch heritage, a real mix of weather. We packages.
on these mountains to was now the main didn’t ski every day, nor
To book, visit
get computer predictions, avalanche forecaster on did we plan to. A fantastic
JETSTAR.COM
but another to have local the mountain. week not just of skiing but
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