Organic Cotton Market Report 2018 - Textile Exchange
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Organic Cotton Market Report 2018
Foreword from La Rhea Pepper Call to action
Towards a more connected community
SET A TARGET
The organic cotton sector has been working diligently to Starting with the Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA) and Commit to transitioning your cotton usage
improve livelihoods and agricultural impacts for the past Textile Exchange’s Organic Cotton Round Table (OCRT), to organic and set quantitative, time-bound
25 years. All of us care deeply about the vibrancy of discussions are in place to plan on how to work more targets to help track progress.
the sector and its leading role in the sustainable textile closely to support a more connected community and BE CONFIDENT IN YOUR
journey yet, for the past number of years, the organic sector-wide collective impact. How can the OCRT’s
CONTENT CLAIMS
cotton sector’s growth hasn’t been reflecting this. convening, catalyzing and educating work compliment
Earlier this year, we asked - would a more connected OCA’s work investing in key issues and farm end Use a chain of custody standard to track
community support organic cotton to have a larger support to lead to a greater collective impact? your product to market.
collective impact?
We are very excited about this direction and look MAKE AN IMPACT
As a part of this deep reflection, we spoke with many of forward to your input and help in connecting the sector Work with suppliers to build transparency
you, hearing directly and indirectly some clear desires. for greater impact. Stay tuned for more information on
and ensure impact on the ground.
While we know impressive work is being done and this following the 2018 Global OCRT in Milan on 22
organic cotton production is up this year, we also know October. INVEST IN TRANSITIONAL
we are nowhere near where we need to be to have
Looking for innovative ways to do great
the level of impact we know the sector could have.
things? Invest in cotton in transition-to-
One concern we have heard loud and clear is the La Rhea Pepper
fragmentation of the sector and lack of required aligned organic, blended with your certified organic.
Managing Director,
leadership. DIVERSIFY YOUR SOURCING
Textile Exchange
We therefore looked for best practice models that Consider a diverse approach to building your
demonstrate what it takes to move from isolated organic supply base, different regions offer
impacts to a collective, connected impact. It turns out different opportunities.
there are five key conditions needed:
DO BUSINESS DIFFERENTLY
1. A Common Agenda
How do you re-engineer your sourcing
2. Shared Measurement practices? OCA, ChetCo, OrganiMark’s
“cluster” program - each help brands and
3. A Mutually Reinforcing Action Plan suppliers leverage scale they create together.
4. Continuous Communication TAKE YOUR SEAT AT THE TABLE
5. A ‘Backbone’ Structure to support it Join our Global and Regional Organic Cotton
Round Tables.
Cover Page Photo: Farmer Field School, Ethiopia -
Pesticide Action Network UK
Independent review
BSD Consulting performed an independent review of Accountability Principles and considered that the After careful revision of the OCMR 2018 and its underlying
the data collection process used by Textile Exchange report has satisfied the Inclusivity and Responsiveness data collection process, we can affirm that Textile Exchange
in compiling data for the annual Organic Cotton Market principles in full. A total of eight local ambassadors was able to improve the accuracy and completeness of the
Report (OCMR). The objective of the critical review have been involved in this year´s data collection presented data and deliver a reliable picture of the current
is to provide Textile Exchange’s stakeholders with an process. With the help of this support staff and partner state of organic cotton production. Using data triangulation
independent opinion about the quality of the reported organizations, Textile Exchange was able to establish and investigation, the team put a considerable effort in
data and the adherence to the principles of international a strong network of partners allowing it to approach compiling the global data.
benchmarks such as the AA1000APS (2018) and the the data collection from different perspectives. During
GRI Standards. The full statement is available here. the production year, many producer groups have been To further benefit from this effort, we recommend that Textile
visited in loco, which allowed first-hand confirmation Exchange expand the report in future cycles with impact
BSD Consulting considers the total of 117,525 MT of numbers. Furthermore, Textile Exchange has made data that can distinguish the importance of organic certified
of organic cotton for the production year 2016/17 updates in the data collection methodology applied in production in an environment of increasing sustainability
reported in the OCMR 2018 to be an accurate and the prior report and presented a revised version in order claims of market partners and related certification schemes
reliable estimation. Textile Exchange has made a major to conduct the data collection of this report during our with less rigid benchmarks for production.
effort in obtaining more data from Certification Bodies review process.
(CBs) and, at the same time, improved the quality of
producer data, by establishing direct relations with With reference to the Impact principle, the OCMR 2018
the groups through visits or using data from existing is providing case studies to document the evolution and Beat Grüninger
partner programs to confirm the data sets derived from development of organic cotton in all covered regions Director, Group Partner, BSD
producer sources. The data collection process also and also predicts a significant increase of converted Consulting
satisfied the completeness principle to a great extent areas in the coming years. So far, anecdotal references
as it covered 32 out of 64 cotton producing countries, on how organic cotton will contribute to the Sustainable
representing nearly 95 percent (21,936,000 MT) of Development Goals suggest that cotton will have a
the total production registered by the International strong positive impact on society and environment.
Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC). The data has
been compiled using three different sources: Data For the next reports, we recommend that Textile
delivered directly by producer groups, data from official Exchange gather objective data from impact studies
governmental agencies registering certified production that can corroborate this impact. Given the fact that
and data provided by certification bodies. consumers often do not make a clear distinction
between organic and less rigid sustainability
BSD has verified a sample of templates used by the certifications, such impact data can prove that organic
ambassadors for data collection and confirmed that has stronger positive footprint and is key to further
triangulation and quality checks have been used increasing organic certified cotton production.
to guarantee accuracy of the data to the extent it
was technically possible for Textile Exchange. BSD
Consulting evaluated the application of the four
What’s inside
Contents EMENA & Central Asia 38
Key findings 6 Q&A with Aydin Unsal 43
The year in numbers 6 Stakeholder directory 45
Snapshot of the wider organic sector 7
Latin America & the Caribbean 46
Global organic cotton production 8 Q&A with Orlando Rivera 50
2016/17 organic cotton production 9 Stakeholder directory 52
Q&A with Anita Chester 11
South & Southeast Asia 53
Organic Cotton Round Table 12
Q&A with Arun Ambatipudi 58
Organic cotton & the Sustainable Development Goals 13
Stakeholder directory 64
Brand commitments to organic cotton 14
Q&A with Crispin Argento 15 United States of America 65
Stakeholder directory 16 Q&A with Sally Fox 70
Organic cotton pricing 17 Stakeholder directory 72
Fiber classification 19
Standards & Certification 73
Africa20 Organic textiles certification 75
Q&A with Prama Bhardwaj 25 Central Database System 76
Stakeholder directory 29
Methodology & Disclaimer 77
China30 2018 methodology & disclaimer 78
Q&A with Veronica Yow 34 About Textile Exchange 80
Stakeholder directory 37
© | Page 4
Welcome to the 2018
Organic Cotton Market Report
“
We are happy to note that this year’s
Welcome back to Textile Exchange’s 13th Organic be found in India, Tanzania, and Pakistan, with China, OCMR and the processes leading up to
Cotton Market Report (OCMR). Turkey and Kyrgystan also reporting substantial areas. putting this report together have been
GRI compliant. This improvement fills a
Our 2018 report is packed with even more data and Our mantra: Growth must come with Integrity.
critical data gap in the sector and C&A
analytics, alongside the ever-popular country round-
In this report you will find many fine examples of organic Foundation is glad to have supported
ups and bite-sized, yet totally inspiring, stories from the
cotton programs across the globe. You will see they Textile Exchange on this journey. We hope
organic field.
are transparent, otherwise they would not be featured. that this trajectory continues allowing the
Globally, organic cotton production grows ten percent. These champions, among others, work hard to grow industry to make informed choices based
the sector with integrity and respect for their fellow on credible data.
We are pleased to announce a ten percent growth in partners, their communities, and the environment.
organic cotton fiber production in 2016/17, over the
year before. The biggest volumes are coming from We are proud to be independently verified.
India, China, Turkey and Kyrgyzstan. Anita Chester
After two years of intensive work with BSD Consulting, Head of Sustainable Raw
Many countries have growth in the double-digits. supported by the C&A Foundation, we have some big
Materials, C&A Foundation
news to report this year. We are extremely proud to
We witness strong growth in China, the USA, and announce that our data collection and management
Brazil this year, with Uganda, Tanzania, and Benin also systems have been independently assessed by BSD’s
achieving high growth on the African continent. auditing arm and found to be GRI compliant. This is a
While organic still occupies less than one percent rewarding moment for Textile Exchange, especially for
of global cotton production, it’s interesting to look our data and analytics team and regional ambassadors
at the organic share within each country. Tanzania who have worked so hard for this recognition.
and Tajikistan are producing between seven and ten Reserve your place at the Table.
percent of their overall cotton supply organically, while
Kyrgyzstan’s organic was calculated at an impressive Whether it’s Milan, Izmir, or Koudougou, there’s a place
66.8 percent of the country’s overall production. for all at Textile Exchange’s Organic Cotton Round
Table. Join us and you will receive a warm welcome!
In-conversion figures reveal serious growth is just We hope to see you soon.
around the corner.
One of the most exciting observations is the potential
for growth we are seeing through reported in-conversion Liesl Truscott
figures, which reveal that a whopping 217,721 ha (50 Director of Europe & Materials Strategy,
percent of the current land area) are in conversion to Textile Exchange
organic. The largest areas of in-conversion land can
Key findings
Organic cotton production Substantial areas of land are The year in numbers
grows ten percent globally. in transition to organic.
In 2016/17, global organic cotton 214,863 hectares of cotton-growing 117,525 472,999 214,863
production reached 117,525 MT land were in transition to organic
fiber, representing a ten percent in 2016/17, almost 50 percent of Organic Cotton Organic Certified Organic
Fiber (MT) Land (ha) In-Conversion
growth. This stems, for the most the current certified land area. This Land (ha)
part, from China, fuelled by growing indicates strong growth over the
demand both from the organic next few years as this land reaches
TOP 5 PRODUCING COUNTRIES:
dairy industry and the domestic certification. The vast majority of
textile sector. Other countries that in-transition land is in India, with the
contributed significantly to the remainder stemming predominantly
growth include Tanzania, Uganda, from Pakistan, China, Tanzania, and
Tajikistan
6,405 mt
Kyrgyzstan
8,019 mt
+10%
5.4%
6.8%
over 2015/16
Benin, Turkey, and the USA. Turkey. Turkey
7,741 mt
Organic Cotton Fiber (MT)
6.6%
China
22,521 mt
More brands are committing Promising developments
India
59,470 mt
19% +56%
to organic. from organic cotton over 2015/16
51%
initiatives span the globe. Organic Certified Land (ha)
A growing number of brands and
retailers are setting targets and From brand commitments and
signing commitments to increase government-backed initiatives to TOP 5 PRODUCING COUNTRIES BY: GROWTH IN GOTS CERTIFIED
their use of organic cotton, either industry collaborations and strategic FACILITIES:
under their own steam or as part of partnerships, there has been a IN-CONVERSION GROWTH
public, group commitments such as surge in the efforts being made (HA LAND) (% VOLUME)
the German Textile Partnership or across the globe to grow and
the Sustainable Cotton Challenge. support the organic cotton sector. In India 172,180 Senegal +427%
Such commitments are driving this report, you will find directories at Tanzania 18,409 Brazil +155%
change in supply chains as brands the end of each section showcasing
invest in finding innovative and long- just some of this great work. Pakistan 12,283 Uganda +155%
term solutions to secure supply and China 5,108 Benin +72% h8%
build greater transparency.
Turkey 2,721 Egypt +70% 5,024 Certified Facilities
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 6
Snapshot of the wider KEY ARABLE CROPS KEY PRODUCING REGIONS (LAND)
organic sector
Cereals Europe
13.5m ha
The wider organic sector continues to expand globally, with a Green fodders
15 percent rise in organic farmland and a 12.5 percent rise in
Oilseeds
the number of organic producers from 2015 to 2016.
Dry pulses
This page provides a snapshot of the wider organic sector in Latin Oceania
America
2016 (the most recent statistics available). It’s useful to have Textile crops 7.1m ha
27.3m ha
these trends in mind as we dive into the growth trends in
0m ha 1.5m ha 3.0m ha 4.5m ha
organic cotton in the remainder of this report.
FARMERS CERTIFIED LAND MARKET
The number of organic producers is increasing. 57.8m ha The global organic market is growing and consumer demand is
organic farmland (incl. in-conversion) increasing.
2.7m $91.4b US
organic farmers 178 countries global organic food market 2016
in organic farming
+12.8% +15% +12%
over 2015 over 2015 over 2015
TOP 3 COUNTRIES: FARMERS TOP 3 COUNTRIES: LAND TOP 3 COUNTRIES: MARKET
Uganda Australia US
835,000 27.1m ha $44.4b US
India Argentina Germany
210,352 3.0m ha $10.85b US
Mexico China France
210,000 2.3m ha $7.65b US
1. FiBL & IFOAM - Organics International, 2018, The World of Organic Agriculture: Statistics & Emerging Trends 2018
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 7
Global organic
cotton production
BACK TO CONTENTS
2016/17 organic cotton production
A global snapshot
220,478 472,999 117,525
2016/17 was an exciting year for the Data Revisions Organic Farmers Organic Certified Land (ha) Organic Cotton Fiber (MT)
organic cotton community. As well as
seeing promising developments from Textile Exchange relies on its data
organic cotton initiatives across the providers for data comprehensiveness,
globe, we also saw a ten percent growth accuracy and integrity. Whilst we carry
in global fiber production, which reached out a systematic completeness check
on our data processes, this is done
117,525 MT.
on best available information at time of 10% 214,863 0.5%
This growth stems for the most part from reporting. For this reason, as we gain Fiber Growth Over Organic In-Conversion Cotton Globally Is Organic
China, fuelled by growing demand both further insights and information from 2015/16 (MT) Land (ha) (ranging from
2016/17 organic cotton production
Global trends COMPARISON BETWEEN CONVENTIONAL AND ORGANIC COTTON PRODUCTION TRENDS
30,000,000 300,000
2004-05
25,000,000 250,000
Conventional Fiber Production (MT)
Organic Fiber Production (MT)
2005-06
20,000,000 200,000
2006-07 15,000,000 150,000
10,000,000 100,000
2007-08
5,000,000 50,000
2008-09
0 0
2004-05
2005-06
2006-07
2007-08
2008-09
2009-10
2010-11
2011-12
2012-13
2013-14
2014-15
2015-16
2016-17
2009-10 Conventional
Organic
2010-11
2011-12 REGIONAL ORGANIC COTTON PRODUCTION - 5 YEAR TRENDS
2012-13 100,000
Africa
90,000
2013-14 80,000 China
70,000
Fiber Production (MT)
EMENA &
2014-15 60,000 Central Asia
50,000
Latin America
2015-16 40,000 & Caribbean
30,000
South &
2016-17 20,000 Southeast Asia
10,000
United States
0
0
50,000
100,000
150,000
200,000
250,000
300,000
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17
Organic Cotton Fiber Production (MT)
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 10Q&A with Anita Chester
Anita Chester
each of the regions that we work in are
unique in their agro-climatic and socio- Q Where do you go from
here?
economic contexts, they experience
Head of Sustainable Raw Materials, a common thread of challenges. We are deepening our work both in
C&A Foundation Lack of access to good quality non- India and globally. While continuing to
genetically modified (non-GM) cotton is increase the number of organic cotton
easily the greatest obstacle that holds farmers, we also focus on strengthening
back organic cotton. This is not just a farmer collectives. We need to drive
Where is C&A Foundation organic cotton farmers in their programs
Q problem in India; it is a challenge even a shift from philanthropic to market
in its journey of its organic have seen an income increase of over based models. Simultaneously, we
cotton program? 25 percent compared to conventional in countries where GMOs have not
been approved. This is not surprising will continue to support OCA’s work to
farmers in the same areas, thanks to bring the industry together and embed
The case for organic cotton may not be as research has mostly been biased
around 50 percent decrease in input newer business models in the sourcing
immediately evident, but its restorative in favour of GM cotton seeds, and
cost. This, when the reported yield even operations of brands. These business
and regenerative nature presents there has been limited investment and
after four years was 3 percent less than models are aimed at both improving
an incredible opportunity to radically research on indigenous cultivars.
their conventional neighbours. Further, the business case for farmers as well
transform the textile industry’s impact
a recent Life Cycle Assessment study Other challenges include i) the lack as the integrity for brands. OCA will
on both the environment and farmers’
supported by C&A Foundation reveals of support systems for farmers that also coordinate industry investments
lives. In 2014, C&A Foundation began
the substantially reduced environmental enables access to good quality into areas, such as seed research
its journey of supporting farmers to
footprint for organic cotton compared to bio-pesticides and bio-fertilisers, and breeding. While actively engaging
adopt organic cotton farming practices.
conventional. and knowledge on organic cotton with agriculture universities, research
Already the foundation, along with
nine partner organizations, has made Additionally, C&A Foundation’s work practices; (ii) weak market signals and institutes and seed companies to
it possible for approximately 54,000 with the Organic Cotton Accelerator a fragmented supply chain, which address the seed challenge, C&A
smallholder farmers across Brazil, (OCA) has been critical to move the makes market access for organic cotton Foundation is committed to contributing
China, India, Pakistan and Tanzania to entire industry, as has our continuous farmers difficult; and (iii) a weak policy towards a robust global strategy for
transition to organic cotton. Once fully engagement with governments, which environment for organic cotton. These non-GM seed. Collaboration is critical to
certified, these farmers will constitute has yielded initial positive results in terms common factors that resonate with the make organic cotton thrive.
an additional 20 percent of the existing of policy level support Indian experience, teach us that there
is a lot to be done, and organizations For more information on the C&A
global organic cotton farmers.
need to come together and pool their Foundation’s work in organic see the
What have been the
In India, where C&A Foundation started
its organic cotton work, farmers Q lessons learnt in the journey
above?
collective resources and efforts to create
synergies.
Foundation’s 2017 Annual Report
are beginning to see the economic
benefit of organic cotton. In 2017-18, Even though there is renewed interest in
foundation partners in India reported that organic cotton, challenges remain. While Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases
an eclectic mix of industry leaders speaking from “inside” their organizations.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 11Organic Cotton Round Table
The Organic Cotton Round Table continues to regionalize Global OCRT Milan 2018: launch of the global assembly
Textile Exchange’s Organic Cotton into focus, strengthening existing efforts In line with the OCRT’s current between regions, supply networks and
Round Table (OCRT) provides the and initiatives, and shaping customized regionalization strategy, the 2018 Global global thinking to develop the pathway
shared space needed for the organic approaches. OCRT in Milan will put the spotlight on to regional growth.
cotton community to convene, learn the great work and collaborations taking
more about issues facing the organic Textile Exchange first introduced the place in each region. OCRT Scholarship Fund
cotton sector and, most importantly, find concept of the Regional OCRT in Izmir
in 2017. In partnership with Izfas, it This will be achieved through the co- Textile Exchange has always striven to
ways to take action.
was designed to explore opportunities creation of a General Assembly for ensure that the OCRT is as inclusive
After six years of approaching barriers for organic cotton in Turkey, Egypt and Organic Cotton. Delegations from each as possible and, with the new General
to growth in organic cotton at the Central Asia, returning again in May region will come together alongside Assembly approach this year, it is more
global level, the benefits of regionalizing 2018 (more on page 42). The success brands, retailers and other stakeholders, important than ever to have voices
strategies has become increasingly in Izmir has now led to the launch of the to report on and discuss globally from each region and part of the supply
apparent. Ultimately, the same issues Regional OCRT Burkina Faso, part of a their regional updates, activities and network in the room. We have therefore
and opportunities exist for all, but new collaboration with Catholic Relief successes. The General Assembly established the OCRT Scholarship
each region is at a different stage of Services on a series of organic cotton will take the informal linkages of the Fund, contributions to which will go
development and therefore requires a focused activities in West Africa (more current OCRT to a more focused and towards providing support to farmers
different strategy, alongside designated on page 26). mindful model of engagement between and other regional representatives who
resources, investment models, and stakeholders, encouraging a two-way wouldn’t otherwise have the means to
networks of supporters. We are at an exciting stage now flow of information between regional travel to Milan to participate in the 2018
where we can learn from our collective communities. All of the ingredients OCRT. Benefits also flow back to brands
Textile Exchange has found that bringing experience in other regions, tap into that make the OCRT so valuable to and other stakeholders, who gain the
people together at the regional level what works, and fast-track innovation stakeholders will remain, such as the opportunity to meet and learn from a
from all parts of the supply network is and action! multi-stakeholder, accessible, and wider range of producers and regional
a powerful way to catalyze action by catalytic principles, with the added representatives.
bringing region-specific opportunities impact of strengthened interaction
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 12Organic cotton & the Sustainable
Development Goals
Learn how organic cotton helps achieve the SDGs:
• Achieving SDGs Through Organic Cotton (webpage)
• Achieving SDGs Through Organic Cotton (pdf)
• Global Organic Textile Standards & the SDGs
• How Textile Exchange is supporting the SGDs
The U.N. Sustainable Development cities, regenerating and nurturing the How can the textile industry advance these targets?
Goals — also known as Global Goals earth, its resources, and its people.
or the SDGs — is an inter-governmental KPMG and Textile Exchange have just
agreement of the United Nations and The UNDP has identified three priority released a report entitled “Threading
193 countries that provides a framework SDGs as central to its strategic plan - 1: the Needle: Weaving the SDGs into the
of 17 specific, aspirational goals that End Poverty, 10: Reduced Inequalities, textile, retail and apparel industry”.
address the social, economic and and 16: Peace, Justice and Strong
environmental dimensions of sustainable Institutions. Organic cotton makes a A culmination of industry interviews,
development. significant contribution to all three – NGO input, and desk research, the
providing a market-driven solution to report highlights shared value examples
Organic cotton can play an important poverty, reducing inequality by raising for companies in the sector grappling
role in helping countries achieve the farm incomes, and promoting inclusive with how to integrate the SDGs into their
SDGs. Millions of people around societies through its reliance on core business and global supply chain.
the world live in rural communities cooperative working. Organic cotton The report builds on the SDG Industry
dependent on agriculture. Holistic is the vehicle to organic communities, Matrixes, by taking a value chain
organic farming systems based on the and success depends upon SDG approach to corporate action on the
organic principles of health, ecology, 17: Partnership for the Goals, building SDGs specifically in the apparel sector.
fairness and care build thriving and committed, interdependent supply
resilient communities that attract people networks that share risk and reward.
to stay on the land rather than move to
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 13Brand commitments to organic cotton
Where organic cotton was once seen Superdry, for example, has said it will German Textile Partnership’s big shift towards organic cotton
as “niche,” today, brands of all sizes be working with farmers and suppliers
are making it a major component to support and help grow the organic The German Textile Partnership will have binding deadline and volume
of their fiber and material portfolios. cotton sector in order to be able to is a multi-stakeholder partnership targets for all members. Alongside
More and more brands and retailers reach their ambitious goal of using 100 with the objective of achieving individual goals, Partnership members
are setting targets and signing up to percent organic cotton by 2040. social, environmental and economic have jointly agreed to use at least 35
commitments for increasing their use improvements all along the textile supply percent sustainable cotton by 2020,
of organic cotton, encouraged by Other brands are making strong
chain. Partners include the following with 10 percent of the total volume being
growing evidence of the sustainability commitments too, including (but far
stakeholder groups: business sector; organic cotton. The aim is to increase
benefits of the fiber, and by the from limited to): Skunkfunk, Stella
non-governmental organizations; trade the proportion of sustainable cotton to
millennial generation bringing its buying McCartney, and EILEEN FISHER,
unions; standards organizations; and 70 percent by 2025, with 20 percent
power to the market. who have all committed to sourcing
the German government. From 2018, being organic cotton.
100 percent organic cotton by 2020;
the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles
According to the Key Insights Mantis World, who commits to 100
Report from Textile Exchange’s percent organic cotton by 2021; and
2017 Preferred Fiber & Materials Nudie Jeans Co, who committed to
2025 Sustainable Cotton Challenge
Benchmark, 60 percent of participants 100 percent organic cotton by 2017,
who completed the organic cotton a target they have now achieved.
In May 2017, 13 of the world’s In March 2018, it was decided that the
module said they have set SMART
Many more brands are committing to most renowned clothing and textile International Sustainability Unit would
targets for uptake of organic cotton.
using organic cotton as part of their companies, in the presence of His close. Given this decision, it was agreed
Many are also part of public, group
wider commitments to source all of Royal Highness The Prince of Wales, that Textile Exchange would take over
commitments such as the German
their cotton from more sustainable signed up to the 2025 Sustainable the role of the initiative’s Secretariat, and
Textile Partnership or the Sustainable
sources, such as those brands that Cotton Challenge. In October 2017, 24 we are thrilled to help keep this great
Cotton Challenge. Such commitments
have signed up to the Sustainable more companies signed up at Textile momentum going.
are driving change in supply chains
Cotton Challenge or are part of the Exchange’s annual conference. C&A
as brands invest in finding innovative If your company is interested in signing
German Textile Partnership. also joined in January 2018, bringing the
and long-term solutions to secure up for the 2025 Sustainable Cotton
total number of companies to 38.
supply and build greater transparency. Challenge, please fill out the Pledge on
The initiative is a catalyst to spur a the initiative webpage.
shift in the market towards the use
of more sustainable cotton. Through Participating companies are required
this challenge, these companies have to independently publish their progress
committed to ensuring that 100 percent through Textile Exchange’s Preferred
of the cotton they use comes from Fiber & Materials Benchmarl Program.
sustainable sources by 2025.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 14Q&A with Crispin Argento
at the farm.Through our mission, we
are focused on integrity, supply, quality Q Where do you see OCA in
a year’s time?
Crispin Argento and impact. Our “farm first” approach
brings together the entire supply chain OCA is the first market-driven multi-
Executive Director, stakeholder initiative dedicated entirely to
to invest in programs and innovations
Organic Cotton Accelerator
and support the farmers that dedicate the enrichment and promotion of organic
themselves and their families to growing cotton. Since its inception at the Organic
this extraordinary fiber for our benefit and Cotton Round Table (OCRT), OCA has
set ambitious goals around growth, but
Q Tell us about your vision for What are you most excited enjoyment.
the organic cotton sector Q about doing in your new
role?
As we continue to come together as
recognizes there are many immediate
solutions that will lead to real impact in
At OCA, we are committed to creating a sector around a shared vision and the near future.
a prosperous organic cotton sector I am thrilled to be leading OCA at a time platform through OCA, we will finally
realize the full potential of organic cotton Over the course of this year and the
that benefits everyone—from farmer to when the sustainable cotton sector is
and its contributions for people, planet next, it is OCA’s primary responsibility to
consumer. To drive this commitment, gaining that critical momentum to bring
and long-term prosperity for generations bring the sector together to leverage our
OCA Affiliates and Partners have come lasting change. Personally, I am humbled
to come. collective expertise, mobilize resources
together to make organic cotton a and honored for the opportunity to
and continue to demonstrate through
viable, scalable and impactful solution work with people across the sector and
our programs and interventions that
for all. OCA is focused on accelerating around the world, who have dedicated
What have been the key organic cotton is a viable and scalable
investments and interventions that serve
the sector – addressing challenges
their lives to advancing organic cotton
from farmers to spinners, brands to Q learnings in the journey
above?
solution from farmer to consumer.
throughout the supply chain with activists, to the people on my team. It is OCA is a movement, a platform
emphasis on the farm and farmers. their vision, expertise and commitment OCA is focused on engaging and and a tool to make organic cotton a
that inspires my dedication to OCA’s and developing farmers, seed and scaling success. Where and how far we go
As a global platform, OCA celebrates the sector’s success. That is what truly investment in the sector to accelerate as a sector will be entirely up to those
the diversity within the cotton sector; we excites me. integrity, quality, supply and impact— that have made organic cotton their
value the contributions that sustainable globally. This includes a cutting- edge business. It is our willingness, together
Q
cotton has made to advancing positive What is the key role you direct brand-to-farm sourcing service, as representatives of the sector, to
impact all over the world. Our larger see OCA playing? farmer capacity building, industry- work and invest in its future. What that
vision recognizes organic cotton’s role in leading farm business intelligence and
As an accelerator, OCA was formed to looks like I don’t know, but I imagine it
meeting 2030 Sustainable Development impact data, investments in non-GMO
drive the solutions in the sector that will includes a future where organic cotton
Goals and we take special pride in seed innovations, integrity and product
lead to systemic and lasting changes is synonymous with positive economic,
the vital role OCA plays in driving all traceability as well as the development
through its investments and interventions social and environmental impact for all.
sustainable cotton forward. of a fund to empower farm groups and
scale sector investments. For more information, visit the OCA
Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases website.
an eclectic mix of industry leaders speaking from “inside” their organizations.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 15Stakeholder directory SWITZERLAND
Who’s doing what across the globe? bioRe Foundation
Non-profit
This map locates the headquarters of some of the key international organizations
working on organic cotton. Region-specific activities are detailed later in this report.
C&A Foundation
Non-profit
UNITED KINGDOM
CottonConnect FiBL
Non-profit Research Institute
Fairtrade HELVETAS Swiss
International Intercoorporation
Voluntary Standard Non-profit
Pesticide Action
Network UK
Non-profit
GERMANY
GIZ
Soil Association Non-profit
Non-profit
Global Organic Textile
Standard (GOTS)
USA Voluntary Standard
Textile Exchange SOUTH AFRICA
Non-profit IFOAM-Organics
OrganiMark
International
Service Company
Non-profit
THE NETHERLANDS
Organic Cotton Supply Chain Intervention: Standards/Chain of Custody Market making
Accelerator (OCA)
Non-profit Field-level Intervention: Field data & analytics Development Seed breeding Field capacity building & training Cotton cultivation/processing
Informing & Convening: Education & awareness raising Market research & analytics Multi-stakeholder platforms
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 16Organic cotton pricing
There is no universally accepted • Trade agreements between to farmers who are trading at the farm Country Fiber Seed Lint
definition or formalized mechanism producers and buyers gate, often receiving their annual income type US$/kg US$/kg
Avg. Avg.
for arriving at a price for organic seed in one lump sum. Farmers sell to
cotton or fiber. • Fairtrade certification on top of aggregators, ginners, mills, occasionally
Benin S-M-L 0.55 2.10
organic certification. to brands, and also to traders in the Brazil S-M-L 0.80 2.40
The rule-of-thumb is to take a open market. Burkina Faso S-M-L 0.60
reference price (this is usually the The average price differential is
China L-ELS 3.39
conventional cotton price quoted in the somewhere between 5 and 20 If farmers are vertically integrated into China S-M-L 2.93
country of origin or on the international percent, but can be as little as one the mills, or they have agreed trade and
percent or as large as 100 percent. Egypt L-ELS 1.39 4.13
commodity market at a set time) price arrangements with a buyer, partner
India S-M-L 0.72 1.90
and add a percentage increase to The price differential is supposed to company or organization, the price can
India L-ELS 0.88 2.15
cover the organic value addition, and cover: be decoupled from the commodity
possible compensation for a loss in market, or at least a minimum price is Kyrgyzstan S-M-L 1.80
yields. • Cost of production (and any agreed upfront, alongside other terms Mali S-M-L 0.60
losses in yield) and conditions of trade. Pakistan S-M-L 0.55 1.45
This differential is often called a “price Peru L-ELS 0.94 2.79
premium”, at Textile Exchange we • Internal Control System (ICS), Costs during manufacturing, such
Senegal S-M-L 0.60
refer to it as a “price differential.” It is certification and inspections as factory certification, bookkeeping,
Tajikistan S-M-L 0.55 1.88
agreed to between buyer and seller, chain of custody, product segregation,
• Training and extension services Tanzania S-M-L 0.58
yet heavily influenced by conventional possibly machine cleaning and running
commodity market prices. smaller volumes, need to be part of the Turkey S-M 0.71 2.08
• Investment in farming operations
final costing, but it is the value-addition Turkey M-L 0.78 2.17
Differentials on the seed cotton or at the growing stage where the majority Uganda S-M-L 1.52
• A percentage may also go
on the lint (ginned fiber) can range of the organic benefits are made.
towards the collective needs of USA S-M-L 2.55
depending on factors such as:
the community such as schooling, USA L-ELS 3.33
[See more on pricing models here:
• Market conditions and price health care, and housing
A World Beyond Certification: A best
elasticity, and market variances (in practices guide for organic cotton
• Research, development and
the supply and demand cycle) trading models, Textile Exchange and
investment in seed and farm
• Quality and staple length innovations Kering, page 21-25.]
• Country of origin The seed cotton price is the amount
Note: This organic cotton pricing tables above and over page provide estimated figures only, based on conversations
paid for the harvested cotton bolls with local experts. In 2016/17, according to our information, organic cotton prices ranged from US$/kg 1.45-3.33
• Amount of trash or contamination (with seed still attached). It is the seed (average of 2.34) compared to the Cotlook Index that ranged from 1.71-1.95 (average of 1.82) over the same time
cotton price that is most important period. Please refer to graphs over page, and accompanying text that explains factors affecting price, alongside
organic differentials.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 17ORGANIC SEED COTTON & ORGANIC LINT COTTON PRICES (2016/17)
Organic Cotton Lint Prices
0.4
0.6
0.8
1.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
2.6
2.8
3.0
3.2
3.4
3.6
3.8
4.0
4.2
4.4
The organic lint price is the market price USA organic upland averaged 2.55
of post-ginned cotton fiber. The seeds USD/kg, around 40 percent over the Benin S M L
have been removed (for seed selection Cotlook Index. USA organic Pima sold at
Brazil S M L
breeding or for processing by the 3.33 USD/kg.
organic food or feedstock sector). The Burkina Faso S M L
fiber is compressed and baled for the In India, sales of organic (short, medium,
textile industry. This is the product that long) fiber averaged 1.90 USD/kg, China L EL
feeds spinning mills, sold to spinners by around 7% more than conventional. ELS
China S M L
either farmers, ginners, or traders. fiber averaged 2.15 USD/kg.
Egypt L EL
Turkish organic lint prices averaged Peruvian organic (high quality ELS pima)
lint prices averaged USD 2.79, but India L EL
2.17 USD/kg, ranging from 1.90 to
2.32 USD/kg, depending upon quality prices varied through the year from USD
India S M L
and staple length. Turkish organic 1.95 to 3.63.
Kyrgyzstan S M L
fiber averaged 10 percent higher Brazil produced Fairtrade organic cotton
than conventional prices on the Izmir in North West of the country. The fiber Mali S M L
Commodity Exchange. prices ranged between USD 1.80 and
Pakistan S M L
In China, organic fiber prices averaged 3.00 per kg, averaging 2.40 USD/kg.
Peru L EL
2.93 USD/kg (differentials ranging 15-35 Organic fiber from Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan
percent over conventional). Organic ELS and Pakistan was priced between 1.45 Senegal S M L
prices averaged 3.28 USD/kg, up to 60 and 1.60 USD/kg.
percent higher than conventional ELS. Tajikistan S M L
Tanzania S M L
COMMODITY MARKET FOR CONVENTIONAL COTTON (2016/17) Turkey M L
3.0 Turkey S M
2.5
USA S M L
USA
USD/Kg Cotton Fiber
2.0
China USA L EL
1.5
India
0.4
0.6
0.8
1.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
2.6
2.8
3.0
3.2
3.4
3.6
3.8
4.0
4.2
4.4
1.0
Turkey US$ per kg
0.5
Organic Seed Cotton Price (2016/17): Range (Max/Min) Average Price
0 Organic Lint Cotton Price (2016/17): Range (Max/Min) Average Price
16
16
6
16
16
17
‘17
7
7
17
17
7
t ‘1
r ‘1
r ‘1
l ‘1
g‘
p‘
v‘
c‘
n‘
y‘
n‘
Fibre Length: S Short M Medium L Long EL Extra Long
b
Ju
Oc
Ma
Ap
No
Ma
De
Ja
Ju
Au
Se
Fe
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 18Fiber classification
Global organic cotton fiber classification mapping KYRGYZSTAN TURKEY CHINA
Jala-Abad Aegean Xinjiang
L YC:50Ne L MIC:4.1-4.4 | YC:45-50Ne M L MIC:4.4 | YC:34-50Ne
USA EGYPT
Belbeis / Fayoum Elbeheira Izmir Gansu
Texas TAJIKISTAN M MIC:4.3-4.9 | YC:40Ne M MIC:3.5-4.7 | YC:34-40Ne
S M MIC:4.3-7.6 | YC:10-40Ne EL MIC:4.3-4.9 | YC:50-80Ne
Fergana Valley/Khujand
Hubei
M MIC:3.91 | YC:40Ne
M MIC:4.7 | YC:34-40Ne
BRAZIL
Piaui
M MIC:4 | YC: 30-40Ne
Ceara
M MIC:4 | YC: 34-50Ne
INDIA
Rio Grande Do Norte
M MIC:4 | YC:30-40Ne Rajasthan
M MIC:3.5-4.9 | YC:30-40Ne
Paraiba
S M MIC:4 | YC:10-40Ne Madhya Pradesh
M MIC:3.2-4.9 | YC:30-40Ne
Pernambuco
M MIC:4 | YC:30-40Ne Odisha
M L MIC:3.7-4.5 | YC:24-45Ne
PERU Andhra Pradesh
Lambayeque L EL MIC:3.6-4.9 | YC:40-80Ne
L EL MIC:3.2-6.2 | YC:35-60Ne Tamil Nadu
L EL MIC:2.2-3.8 | YC:40-120Ne
Tarapoto
S MIC:3.2-6.2 | YC:10-40Ne Karnataka
BENIN MALI TANZANIA L EL MIC:3.0-3.5 | YC:40-90Ne
Chincha Glazoue Banikoara Shinyanga
L MIC:3.2-6.2 | YC:35-50Ne M YC:20-40Ne Maharashtra
M YC:20-40Ne M YC:20-40Ne
M MIC:3.5-4.2 | YC:24-40Ne
Banikoara
Singida Gujarat
Fiber Length Accronyms M YC:20-40Ne SENEGAL M YC:20-40Ne
S M MIC:3.2-4.5 | YC:10-40Ne
S Short MIC = Fiber Micronaire Koussanar, Senegal
M YC:20-40Ne
M Medium Ne = YC unit - English BURKINA FASO
System (1 Ne = 1 Hank/ lb)
UGANDA PAKISTAN
L Long Bobo Dioulasso
YC = Yarn Count M L YC:20-60Ne M MIC:3.5-4.9 | YC:24-36Ne
M YC:20-40Ne
EL Extra Long
3. Kering and Textile Exchange, 2017. Organic Cotton - A fiber classification guide.Africa
Photo: C&A Foundation, Tanzania
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 202+ S + 98
Africa
MALI
REGIONAL PRODUCTION
1+99+S
SENEGAL
13+87+S
130 MT UGANDA
4 MT
765 MT
24,380 46,555 29%
0+100+S
ETHIOPIA
Organic Farmers Organic Certified Fiber (MT)
Land (ha) Year-On-Year Growth
In
Conversion
5,863 18,978 5%
Organic Cotton Organic In-Conversion Share of Global Organic
Fiber (MT) Land (ha) Cotton Production
8+92+S
BURKINA FASO
5-YEAR PRODUCTION TRENDS
491 MT
4,000
12+88+S
BENIN
3,500 Benin
3,000 Burkina Faso
699 MT
Fiber Production (MT)
2,500 Mali
64+36+S
2,000 Senegal TANZANIA
1,500 Tanzania
1,000 Uganda 3,773 MT
500 Madagascar
0
2012-13 2013-14 2014-15 2015-16 2016-17
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 21Africa
Tanzania
Senegal
Burkina
Uganda
Benin
Faso
Mali
In East Africa, Tanzania continues to BENIN
account for the vast majority of the 2,715 7,369 1,363 277 4,337 8,319
region (as well as the continent’s) In Benin, the partnership between the Organic Farmers
organic cotton production, followed by national Organization for the Promotion
Uganda. Ethiopia will also join the mix in of Organic Agriculture (OBEPAB) and
2017/18 as PAN UK’s project reaches PAN UK enabled the recruitment of two 3,384 3,731 9,865 92 16,883 12,600
Organic Certified
certification. additional female field agents. Farmers Land (ha)
have been trialing new methods, such
In West Africa, the 2016/17 season as using palm oil processing residue as
saw favorable climate conditions which, fertilizer. As a result, producers achieved 699 491 130 4 3,773 765
combined with training and support Organic Cotton
the highest organic cotton yield in the Fiber (MT)
received by farmers in Benin and West Africa region, at 226 kg fiber/ha.
Burkina Faso, resulted in an increase in
production in each country except Mali, BURKINA FASO no data no data 569 no data 18,409 no data
where investment is lacking. Organic In-Conversion
In Burkina Faso, the RECOLTE project, Land (ha)
While farmer numbers in the region led by Catholic Relief Services (CRS),
decreased by 2 percent, production continues to support farmers of the
72% 5% 4% 427% 17% 155%
increased by 33 percent, reflecting National Union of Cotton Producers of
Fiber Year-On-Year
improvements in yield experienced in Burkina (UNPCB) in training to improve
Benin and Burkina Faso. These two production techniques. This resulted
countries accounted for the majority (53 in an impressive yield increase of 63
0.6% 0.4% 0.1% 0.004% 3.2% 0.7%
and 37 percent, respectively) of West percent in 2016/17. RECOLTE is also
Share of Global Organic
Africa’s total organic cotton production in involved in developing the first organic Cotton Production
2016/17. cotton gin in West Africa, as well as a
new seed development initiative that
0.4% 0.2% 0.05% 0.1% 9.2% 2.7%
aims to improve the quality and quantity
Organic Share of National
of non-GMO seed in Burkina Faso. Cotton Production
Textile Exchange is partnering with CRS
on a series of activities in Burkina Faso
in 2018, including a Regional Organic
Cotton Round Table. Read more about
this and other CRS/ RECOLTE project
updates on pages 26 and 28.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 22Africa
MALI SENEGAL
Mali’s production of organic cotton, In Senegal, Yakaar Niani Wulli (YNW),
which reduced significantly in 2015/16 which was the main producer group in
when the group MOBIOM ceased previous years, has ceased producing
production, remained stable in 2016/17. organic cotton after struggling to find a
However, it is expected to decrease market for it.
again next year, largely due to reduced
farmer training and support. This support A new farm group was created named
was previously provided by HELVETAS’ SODEFIX, located in the district of
organic cotton program, which has Missirah Wadene in the west of the
now ended. The National Federation of country. SODEFITEX produced 4 MT
Producers of Organic and Fair Farming of organic cotton fiber in 2016/17 but,
in Mali (FENABE), which is made up of unless the market situation changes, little
some of MOBIOM’s previous farmers growth is anticipated in the near future.
but also many newcomers, sells its
organic cotton through The Malian Textile
Development Company (CMDT) but is
finding it lacks the support required to
grow the project. There is, however, a
new project being initiated that could
turn this situation around (see page 28).
Photo: Pesticide Action Network UK, Ethiopia
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 23Africa
TANZANIA with plans to significantly expand its
land area and farmer numbers over the
In Tanzania, an impressive 9.2 percent coming years.
of the country’s overall cotton production
is organic, which is the second highest UGANDA
rate globally (after Kyrgyzstan). This
figure is expected to grow further in the Gulu Agricultural Development Company
coming years, with both of the countries’ (GADC), which accounts for all of
organic cotton producer groups, bioRe Uganda’s organic cotton production,
Meatu and BioSustain, expanding their saw an additional 2,319 farmers
production. become certified in 2016/17, resulting
in a 155 percent increase in production,
bioRe Meatu has over 1,000 ha currently from 300 to 765 MT fiber. This follows
in conversion to organic. The group a recent development project that
buys cotton from farmers based on included agricultural training for farmers.
floor prices set by the government every 2017 saw the start of a 3-year support
season, with a 15% premium added program, which aims to strengthen
based on the average price of the last village communities, provide financial
five years. training, and establish self-organized
support groups.
BioSustain is collaborating with the C&A
Foundation and Cotton House Africa,
“
This year’s crop has confirmed the good performance of the newly
introduced seeds with all organic farmers registered with bioRe
Tanzania Ltd. The higher yields as well as the good fiber quality
(28mm) are benefitting both the farmers and the industry alike. It is
a great success of the team of bioRe Tanzania Ltd. that the efforts
of more than twenty years of promoting organic practices are now
materializing in improved livelihoods of farmers.
Christa Suter
Managing Director,
bioRe Foundation Photo: Top and bottom left: bioRe, Tanzania; Bottom right: C&A Foundation, Tanzania
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 24Q&A with Prama Bhardwaj
in manufacturing facilities in some the West. Similarly, brands and retailers
countries – notably Kenya and Ethiopia. in the West would be wise to consider
Prama Bhardwaj new supply lines from Africa where
CEO and Founder, Mantis World | However there is so much more to transparency is readily available and
Chair of Textile Exchange’s Pan-Africa do to increase yields, provide support lessons can be learned from other textile
for farmers and to create markets for producing regions. The availability of
Sourcing Working Group
the cotton. In some countries, there raw material including organic cotton
are many multi sector actors who already exists – I hope in the medium
are working collectively in the region
Q other regions where intensive farming of term we will see the development and
Why Africa? conventional cotton has been the norm.
from NGOs, brands and retailers, growth of a high quality supply chain.
Government agencies, producers
In 2015 I was chairing a breakout At Mantis World we have always and suppliers. This is the sort of Through multi stakeholder discussion,
session on Africa at the OCRT in sourced from Tanzania since we started collaboration needed to bring about I believe Governments will hear a loud
Hamburg. There was a strong desire 18 years ago. Not just the raw material, meaningful and sustainable long term and clear message of what is needed
from brands and retailers to explore but finished garments and we have now growth across the region. at the policy and implementation level to
sourcing from Africa and from farming switched all our Tanzanian production really propel growth. The supply chain
groups who needed markets for their
organic cotton, but no one really knew
of garments to organic cotton certified
to GOTS and OCS standards. So Q Where next? needs to be developed so that much
needed value addition is kept within
how to connect and where to go. As a we know that it is possible albeit not the region, bringing with it technology,
Sub sahara Africa is diverse and young
result the Pan Africa Sourcing Working without challenges and hope to act as employment and development. The
– the average age is 18 compared with
Group was created to map, connect an example and source for other brands work Mantis World is doing with vertically
the average age in Europe of 40. So
and grow sourcing of organic cotton and and retailers. integrated factory Sunflag Tanzania
many of tomorrow’s consumers and
sourcing in Africa. The interest in the keeps the whole value chain in one
Q How Far have we come as innovators will be African. I hope to see
work of the Group demonstrates clear country in Africa and so we know that
an industry? consolidation and growth of trade within
signals for growth and understanding of it is possible. What will be needed is
the region as African consumers will
this sector. Interest in the region has never been more investment along with a favourable
need supply of textiles, and a growing
stronger. At Mantis World, we have policy climate to really grow the sector
Sub-Sahara Africa affords several number will want to move away from
more customers than ever asking for and make it more commercially viable.
benefits for sourcing organic cotton. buying the fast fashion castoffs from
“made in Africa” garments. We are
Many countries have banned
seeing huge growth of organic farmers
GMO cotton, and because of the
in Tanzania and Uganda, the regional
small number of actors in the field,
OCRT bringing together actors in
transparency and integrity are assured.
West Africa and an exciting project
There is huge potential for poverty
of in conversion cotton in Ethiopia.
reduction without the damaging
There has also been a dramatic rise
environmental impact we have seen in Read more inspiring stories from Textile Exchange’s Insider Series here, which showcases
an eclectic mix of industry leaders speaking from “inside” their organizations.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 25Africa
What Textile Exchange is doing
“
We are excited and eager to partner with Textile Exchange in growing
the organic cotton sector in Burkina Faso and the region. Connecting
Regional Organic Cotton Round Table | Burkina Faso
to different markets, thousands of organic cotton producers,
September 28, 2018
more than half of whom are women, for inclusive and sustainable
Textile Exchange is delighted to be interviews that were carried out for the development are our common goals.
collaborating with Catholic Relief MOSP by Change Agency. Boubacar Kamissokho
Services (CRS) on a series of organic Chief of Party,
cotton focused activities in West Held during the Salon International du CRS RECOLTE Project Burkina Faso
Africa. These include the launch of a Coton et du Textile (SICOT, 27-28th
new Regional Organic Cotton Round September), the Regional OCRT is
Table (OCRT) in Koudougou on 28th part of four days of events focused on Organic and Fairtrade Cotton Coalition West Africa
September 2018, a Market Opportunity organic and fair trade cotton in West
Scoping Project (MOSP), and a Africa, including a workshop of the Faso, Senegal and Benin together
documentary-style video. The agenda Organic and Fairtrade Cotton Coalition with Aproca, ecos and FiBL and in
for the Regional OCRT will be framed West Africa on 26th September, and a partnership with Fairtrade International
around the results of the research field trip on 29th September. and Textile Exchange. The aim of this
initiative is to establish and maintain
The Organic and Fairtrade Cotton market access for tens of thousands
Coalition West Africa was launched of small farmer families in West Africa
Pan-Africa Sourcing Working Group in December 2017 by six producer producing organic-fairtrade cotton and
organizations from Mali, Burkina other organic crops.
Textile Exchange’s Pan-Africa Sourcing Virtual meetings are held quarterly, with
Working Group was initiated at the occasional in-person meetings, usually
2016 Organic Cotton Round Table in held during the annual Global OCRT. Salon International du Coton et du Textile
Hamburg, when it was proposed that The ultimate objective of the group is
a group be established to work on the to develop and support the market The Salon International du Coton et increase international trade by creating
various priorities that had been identified for preferred/more sustainable cotton du Textile (SICOT) aims to expose and linkages between cotton companies,
for expanding organic cotton production produced in Africa. The current focus of promote Burkina cotton as an industry the National Cotton Producers Union of
in Africa and better connecting to the group is to map the African cotton for capital investment into cotton Burkina (UNPCB), and buyers from all
supply networks. The group is chaired and sustainability sector by building processing. It will be an opportunity to over the world.
by Prama Bhardwaj, CEO of Mantis a stakeholder map and a supplier
World, and currently has 23 members. directory.
If you’d like to find out more about Textile Exchange’s Pan-Africa Sourcing Working
Group or Regional OCRT, please contact Materials@TextileExchange.org.
BACK TO CONTENTS © | Page 26You can also read
