Preliminary study of local plant utilization (Mahogany) for natural textile dyes - IOPscience
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IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science
PAPER • OPEN ACCESS
Preliminary study of local plant utilization (Mahogany) for natural textile
dyes
To cite this article: N Novita et al 2021 IOP Conf. Ser.: Earth Environ. Sci. 667 012105
View the article online for updates and enhancements.
This content was downloaded from IP address 46.4.80.155 on 06/08/2021 at 20:50
The 2nd International Conference on Agriculture and Bio-industry IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Earth and Environmental Science 667 (2021) 012105 doi:10.1088/1755-1315/667/1/012105
Preliminary study of local plant utilization (Mahogany) for
natural textile dyes
N Novita1, D Dahlan2, M Bahi3 and E Erni4
1
Department of Family Welfare, Faculty of Teacher Training and Education, Universitas
Syiah Kuala, Darussalam 23111, Banda Aceh, Indonesia.
2
Biology Department, Faculty of Mathematic and Natural Sciences, Universitas Syiah
Kuala, Darussalam 23111, Banda Aceh, Indonesia.
3
Chemistry Department, Faculty of Mathematic and Natural Sciences, Universitas Syiah
Kuala, Darussalam 23111, Banda Aceh, Indonesia.
4
Department of Fashion Design, Faculty of Engineering, Medan Area University, Deli
Serdang, North Sumatra 20221
*Corresponding author: novita@unsyiah.ac.id
Abstract. The use of synthetic dyes in textiles has bad impact on human health and pollution in
environment. To solve this problem, it is important to get the information about the potential of
various types of plants that can produce natural substances as dyeing agent. This research was to
examine the colors contained in Mahogany (Swietania mahagoni L.) scattered in Aceh Province
using three types of color fixations (alum, Lime, and iron sulfate). The various colors produced
from this plant can be grouped into 2 colors i.e. grey and brown. The fixator had played an important
role in binding the colors of the plant so that the resulting colors do not fade easily. Two textile
products, pashmina and headscarf, are dyed using the natural coloring from mahogany and decorated
with Acehnese traditional motifs are produced in this research. The authenticity from the natural
dye cannot be produced twice from the same plant. Therefore, the exotic accent combined with the
traditional motifs as well as the comfort of the consumers are important because it is not harmful to
the health of the wearers. These reasons make this product very interesting in the market even though
the price is high.
1. Introduction
Color is one of the main components of which are very important in the textile industry [1], [2]). The quality
and aesthetic value of a textile product cannot be separated from its accuracy in color selection and
placement so that it is in line with market needs [3]. The very diverse market demands textile producers to
be able to create various textile products with various color choices, but without realizing it, almost all
textile products on the market today use synthetic dyes. Easy to obtain, has a wide variety of colors, and
low cost in production are the main reasons for the textile industry to use synthetic dyes compared to natural
dyes [4]. In addition to several advantages possessed by synthetic dyes. However, these dyes have been
proven to be dangerous to human health, pollute the environment, and have the potential to cause various
other negative impacts [5], [6].
To overcome this problem, a new breakthrough is needed by exploiting various types of plants around
the community that can be used as natural dyes for textiles [7]. Several other plants have also been proven
to be natural dyes with an attractive appearance and are safe for health and do not pollute the environment.
Content from this work may be used under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 licence. Any further distribution
of this work must maintain attribution to the author(s) and the title of the work, journal citation and DOI.
Published under licence by IOP Publishing Ltd 1The 2nd International Conference on Agriculture and Bio-industry IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Earth and Environmental Science 667 (2021) 012105 doi:10.1088/1755-1315/667/1/012105
For this reason, a study is needed to reveal the extent of the potential for plants around the community in
Banda Aceh. In this research, the focus is on studying the exploitation of natural colors found in teak plants
with a combination of several fixators to produce several interesting color variations and can be a solution
for the textile industry not to use synthetic dyes for various textile products.
2. Materials and methods
This research is a descriptive qualitative research. The exploratory process of taking natural dye pigments
is called the extraction process. This extraction process is carried out by boiling the material with a water
solvent. In this study, the extracted plant part was barks. Barks are dried, and then cut into small pieces.
Then 500 grams of the material is heated in water with a ratio of 5 liters or with a ratio of 1 gr: 10 liters.
Boil until the water remains half if necessary, until the remaining one third. The solution resulting from the
extraction process is filtered with a gauze filter to separate it from the remaining extracted material
(residue). This filtered extract solution is called a natural dye solution. Once cool, the solution is ready for
use. Before dyeing with natural dye solutions, the following preparatory processes must be carried out:
1. Mordanting process in textiles so that the absorption of natural dyes can be optimal. The textile to be
dyed is soaked in a solution of 2 grams of neutral soap per 1 liter of water. Soaking is carried out for 6
hours. After that the material is washed and air-dried. Next, a solution of alum in water is made with
a ratio of 8 grams of alum per 1 liter of water, stirred, heated to 60ºC, then the fabric is added to the
solution temperature (40 - 60ºC) for 1 hour. After that it is allowed to soak in the solution for 12 hours.
After that the cloth is rinsed, dried, and ironed.
2. The process of dyeing with natural dyes is then carried out. The mordanted cloth is put in a natural dye
solution and soaked for 45 minutes, then put in a fixer solution and soaked for 15 minutes, rinsed and
washed and then dried. The fabric with natural color dyes is finished. However, if you want a darker
color, then dyeing it with natural dyes is usually done repeatedly to get the desired color.
3. . The fixation process is also known as the color locking process so that the natural dyes absorbed on
the fabric do not fade. There are 3 types of fixer solutions that are commonly used, namely iron sulfate
(FeSO4), alum, or quicklime (CaCO3). Thus, before immersion, we need to prepare a fixer solution
first by taking one of the fixer ingredients and dissolving it in water with a ratio of 50 grams per liter
of water. The solution is allowed to settle, then the clear solution is taken so that only a thick binder
remains.
3. Results and discussions
3.1. Natural dye from mahogany bark
Mahogany is one of the many plants that are grown in Banda Aceh, especially for the plants that are used
to furnish the city. This plant is a very potential plant as a natural textile dye because it contains tannin and
flavoid compounds, which are pigments that produce brown coloring. In this research, three kinds of colors
were produced after being processed with three kinds of fixators, namely alum [KA1 (SO4) 2], lime [Ca
(OH) 2], and iron sulfate (FeSO4). The various colors produced from the mahogany can be grouped into
brown and grey.
3.1.1. Brown. Brown is the type of color most produced from the extraction from mahogany. The reddish-
brown color is produced by carotenoid and anthocyanin pigments which are found in the roots, stems,
flowers, fruit and rarely in leaves. In addition, the bixin compounds in the species of Bixa orellana and
sapponin in C. sappan are a source of red color [8]. Some species of plants that are a source of red include
Caesalpinia sappan (stem), Berberis nepaulensis (roots and stems), Homalomena pendula (sap), Ziziphus
sp. (stem), Pterocarpus indicus (stem), Phyllanthus emblica (stem), Syzygium zeylanicum (stem), and
Hibiscus rosasinensis (group of flowers.
2The 2nd International Conference on Agriculture and Bio-industry IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Earth and Environmental Science 667 (2021) 012105 doi:10.1088/1755-1315/667/1/012105
3.1.2. Grey. Tannins are pigments that produce brown to blackish colors [9]. Sources of brown color can
be produced by Camelia sinensis, Canna indica, Heliconia colinsiana, Magnolia montana, Musa sp., Trema
orientale, and Odontosoria chinensis.
A B C
Figure 1. Fabrics with natural dyes made from mahogany bark produced color variations
after fixation with alum to produce a light brown color, lime produces a brown color, and
stubble produces a dark gray color.
3.2. The effects of fixator towards dyes on textiles
In the natural dyeing process, fixator has a very specific role. Generally, natural coloring agents that are
from plants have low absorption rate towards textiles. Therefore, a color lock (fixator) is needed, to make
the color more interesting, more even color on the textiles as well as longer-wear lasting color [10 Fan et
al, 2018). Due to every fixator have different capabilities in locking color within textiles; an expertise is
needed in selecting the right fixator, for colors from certain plants. Apart from that, the length of time during
color submersion and the number of immersions in the fixator media affects the depth pf color produced on
the textile.
3.3. Natural dye from mahogany that is combined with acehnese traditional motifs
Textile products with natural dye are one of the most sought-after commodities in the current global market
[11]. Products with unique color and decorated with traditional motifs have their own exotic values [12].
Apart from that, its nature that is safe for the health of the wearer, makes it valuable because it does not
cause any diseases, which is also one of the reasons these kinds of products are sought-after by the
communities.
Products such as pashmina with dark grey base color (Figure 2A) is decorated with Acehnese traditional
motifs, that was knitted with white thread, so there is a big contrast between the darker base textile dye. At
the edge of this product, it is decorated with smaller traditional motifs, which is still elegant to wear and
both sides can still be seen. Other textile product that was produced in this research is headscarf. The light
brown color in this textile is a product of mahogany tree bark using alum fixator (Figure 2B). This product
is decorated with Acehnese traditional motifs on one side only, because only this side can be seen when it
is worn as a headscarf. The light brown color on this product will ease the producers to combine it with
other garments worn. This color tends to be neutral, gave off elegant feel when worn by women of different
3The 2nd International Conference on Agriculture and Bio-industry IOP Publishing
IOP Conf. Series: Earth and Environmental Science 667 (2021) 012105 doi:10.1088/1755-1315/667/1/012105
skin color. Traditional textiles with natural dyes have a higher price point compared to synthetically dyed
textiles. This is due to the manufacturing and supply process that need extra time as well as the expertise
and skillset needed to produce such textiles and dyes [13]. Natural colors or dyes that are produced from
plants have its own authenticity because it cannot produce the same exact color or dye twice. This makes
the textile produce exclusive and unique. The motifs are also classic with every weave that it creates [14],
[15].
4. Conclusion
Mahogany is one of the plants that can be used as natural dye on textiles. The base color produced is brown;
however, by using fixators, they can affect the color produced by the plant. Natural dyed textiles combined
with traditional motifs can produced textiles with high artistic values, sought-after in the market as well as
higher price point compared to textiles that are synthetically dyed.
References
[1] Becerin B 2017 J. Engineering and Fashion Technology 1 240-244
[2] Yaseen DA and Scholz M 2019 International J. Environmental Science Technology 16 1193-1226
[3] Becker D 2016 Color Trends and Selection for Product Design (Elsevier) 240
[4] Samanta AK and Konar A 2011 Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes (InTech)
[5] Elsahida K, Fauzi AM, Sailah I and Siregar IZ 2019. IOP Conf. Series; Earth & Environmental
Science 399
[6] Heyne K 1988 Tumbuhan Berguna Indonesia (Jakarta: Sarang Warna Jaya)
[7] Arora J, Agarwal P and Gupta G 2017 Green and Sustainable Chemistry 7 35-47
[8] Lemmens H M J and Soetjipto 1999 Sumber Daya Nabati Asia Tenggara (Jakarta: Balai Pustaka)
[9] Yazaki Y 2015 Natural Product Communications 10 505-512
[10] Fan Y, Zhao Y, Liu A, Hamilton A, Wang C, Li L, Yang Y and Yang L 2018 J. Etnobiology and
Etnomedicine 14 74
[11] Stone C, Windsor F M, Munday M and Duranc I 2020 Science of the Total Environment 718 134689
[12] Kuron Y J and Lee Y 2015 J. Design, Creative Process and the Fashion Industry 7 156-174
[13] Kasiri M B and Safapour S 2015 Prog. Color Colorant Coat 8 87-114
[14] Purwanto 2018 J. Itenas Rekarupa 1 54-61
[15] Martuti N K T, Hidayah I and Margunani 2019 J. Panrita Abdi 3 133-143
Acknowledgment
This work was partly supported by funds from Syiah Kuala University Lector Research Grant (Penelitian
Lektor) 2020
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