STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine

 
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STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
Inside
                                      CHRISTMAS ON THE ROW
                                                 Fun and festivities

                                         GOLDEN SHEARS 2019
                                             The winners revealed

                                                    HUNTSMAN
                                              100 years of bespoke

                                               RICHARD JAMES
                                            Master of style and cut

                                              THE LAST DETAIL
                                       The secret art of the pocket

SPIRIT OF
STYLE
DAVID GANDY LAUNCHES SAVILE ROW GIN
STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
GSTA A D PA LACE
                  SW I T Z E R L A N D

           Palacestrasse 28 • 3780 Gstaad
Phone: +41 33 748 50 00 • info@palace.ch • palace.ch
STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
CONTENTS                          WINTER 2020

Designed                                                                                                                                                                       18                                           28 | RICHARD JAMES

        to win
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Robin Dutt reflects on James’ career as
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            an undisputed master of style and cut

                                                                                                                                                                                                                            34 | LONDON ART WEEK
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Gieves and Hawkes creative director
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            John Harrison gives a modern twist to
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            a classic brand

                                                                                                                                                                                                                            38 | THE RHÔNE VALLEY
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Helena Nicklin sets out to savour the best
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            of food and wine the Rhone has to offer

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         40

                                                                                                                                                                                         Photo taken at Gieves and Hawkes
                                                                                                18 | SAVILE ROW GIN
                                                                                                Gin is the quintessential London drink and Savile Row Gin embodies the classic
                                                                                                style of the capital, so to combine the two creates a product that just oozes elegance
                                                                                                and crafted excellence. But the exquisite union nearly didn’t happen. Tim Newark
                                                                                                meets Savile Row Gin founder and CEO, Stewart Lee                                                                           40 | HUNTSMAN
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Revolutionary since 1849, Huntsman

                                                                                                                                                                              28
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            are proud to celebrate 100 years
                                                                                              7 | EDITOR’S NOTES                                                                                                            offering bespoke services on Savile Row
                                                                                              Gin, luxury trains, art and Elton John
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            44 | PICTURE PERFECT
                                                                                              10 | NEWS FROM THE ROW

                                                            Tailored for you
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Robin Dutt looks at the elegance in
                                                                                              Christmas lights on the Row, Hackett                                                                                          men’s clothing as depicted through Art
                                                                                              at No.14, duty increase for buyers                                                                                            over the ages
                                                                                              across the pond plus more...
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            48 | HUSH NOW
                                                                                              16 | GOLDEN SHEARS
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Antonia Windsor savours the delights
                                                                                              Rachel Singer, apprentice of Maurice
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            of the Hush Heath wine estate but
                              Designed by F&P Architects in Italy                             Sedwell, fought off stiff competition
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            not before luxuriating in the Belmond
                                                                                              to win the much-coveted 2019 Golden
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            British Pullman 1920’s style, that
                                                                                              Shears Award
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            delivers her in the grandest comfort
ARCHITECTURE                    INTERIOR DESIGN                         ENGINEERING           24 | ART & EXHIBITIONS                                                                                                        50 | THE LAST DETAIL
                                                                                              This year’s LAPADA Art & Antiques Fair                                                                                        Robin Dutt explores the secret art of
                                                                                              showcasing the finest British dealers                                                                                         the pocket within Savile Row suiting
 www.fabrispartners.it   info@fabrispartners.it     ITALY - Latisana (UD)   +39 0431 520741

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE          5
STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
FOREWORD

                                                                                                                                                                                                                EDITOR’S
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  NOTES
                                                                                                                                                           Inside
                                                                                                                                                  CHRISTMAS ON THE ROW
                                                                                                                                                             Fun and festivities

                                                                                                                                                     GOLDEN SHEARS 2019
                                                                                                                                                         The winners revealed

                                                                                                                                                                HUNTSMAN
                                                                                                                                                          100 years of bespoke

                                                                                                                                                           RICHARD JAMES
                                                                                                                                                        Master of style and cut

                                                                                                                                                          THE LAST DETAIL
                                                                                                                                                   The secret art of the pocket

                                                                                                                                                                                   S
                                                                                                                                                                                              avile Row winter 2020 issue      sets out an itinerary for food and wine
                                                                                                            SPIRIT OF                                                                         is a voyage of discovery for     lovers to follow.

                                                                                                            STYLE                                                                             the reader on many levels,
                                                                                                                                                                                              celebrating the heritage,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  A tour of discovery starts on
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Savile Row moving to Clifford Street
                                                                                                                                                                                   residents and advances that keep this       and surrounding lanes where some
                                                                                                            DAVID GANDY LAUNCHES SAVILE ROW GIN

                                                                                                                                                                                   hallowed Row vibrant and innovating.        'new' galleries and auction houses
                                                                                                                           COVER
                                                                                                                                                                                      We feature a literal voyage in the       played host to over 50 exhibitors
                                                                                                                 David Gandy at Gieves & Hawkes
                                                                                                                                                                                   form of a stroll that Robin Dutt and        during London Art week. Some art
                                                                                                                                                                                   Richard James have shared down              that had not been seen for decades
                                                                                                          MANAGING DIRECTOR                                                        Savile Row, where they reflect                                   found the light of
                                                                                                          Stewart Lee                                                              on the designer’s                                                day and many of
                                                                                                          Email: stewart.lee@publicationsuk.co.uk                                  career beginnings                                                 these galleries may
                                                                                                                                                                                   on the Row and                                                    previously have
                                                                                                          ART DIRECTOR
                                                                                                          Dan Angel
                                                                                                                                                                                   nostalgic memories                                                 gone unnoticed.
  The Art Lux is the perfect blend of luxury and comfort in the heart of Westchester County. This home                                                                             that are sparked                                                   Several sit above
                                                                                                          CONTRIBUTORS                                                             by displays in the                                                 well-known tailors
 features exceptional views, plenty of bright light and endless displays of nature. Close enough to New   Robin Dutt                                                               shop windows. To                                                   and designer
             York City but far enough for it to be the perfect getaway on a day to day basis              Tim Newark                                                               celebrate the opening                                               shops. For art
                                                                                                          Helena Nicklin                                                           of Elton John’s musical                                             enthusiasts, the
                                                                                                          Antonia Windsor
                                                                                                                                                                                   fantasy Rocketman,                                                   twice yearly event

THE
              BAJRAKTARI REALTY GROUP         one of Westchester’s finest country clubs,
                                                                                                          PRODUCTION TEAM                                                          James’ long-time friend                                              offers a chance to
              is offering the Art Lux home,   The Whippoorwill Country club, a 500 acre
                                                                                                                                                                                   offered some of his                                                  continue this tour
ART           built in 2008, located just     estate, occupying one of the highest points                 Angela Brown
                                                                                                                                                                                   legendary-Richard                                                     of discovery
              north of Manhattan in the       in the town of New Castle and North Castle.
                                                                                                                                                                                   James brand outfits to                                                    The journey
LUX
                                                                                                          EDITORIAL OFFICE
              town of Armonk, Chappaqua,         The four story building was built into                   Tel: +44 (0) 20 8238 5006                                                be displayed in-store in                                              of a publisher
              an exclusive part of New        natural rock cropping to preserve the sites                 Email: info@publicationsuk.co.uk
                                                                                                                                                                                   London and New York.                                                   that has built
York’s Westchester County. Armonk is well     natural beauty and its waterfront views                     Web: www.savilerow-style.com
                                                                                                                                                                                   An example on display                                                  a business on
known for being the world headquarters of     throughout the entire home. The Art Lux
                                                                                                          ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES                                                    from his archives, Elton’s                                              his love of gin,
IBM, has a blue ribbon school district, and   home has detailed work of blue stone with
                                                                                                          Tel: +44 (0) 20 8238 5000                                                famed Dot suits, stand                                                  is detailed in
has become a prime foodie destination         cedar siding, a copper front arched roof,
                                                                                                                                                                                   testament to James’                                        Tim Newark’s interview
for many residents. The Chappaqua train       a patio cropped into the rock with a built
                                                                                                          While every care has been taken in                                       craftsmanship and the humour he has         with Stewart Lee, founder and CEO
station, part of the metro north makes        barbeque overlooking the private lake                       compiling this publication, and the                                      introduced into clothing that mirrors       of Savile Row Gin that tells of how the
commuting to New York a breeze. Forbes        views. The custom windows throughout the                    statements contained herein are believed
                                                                                                                                                                                   the charm of both men’s personalities.      London dry gin came to be and of its
magazine has rated Chappaqua as the 317th     home capture the natural light, allowing you                to be correct, the publishers and the
                                                                                                          promoters will not accept responsibility                                    The Belmond British Pullman train        winning attributes.
wealthiest place in the US.                   to enjoy the home through every season.
                                                                                                          for any inaccuracies. Reproduction of                                    voyage transports Antonia Windsor              Hunstman celebrate 100 years of
  This impressive 6,800 square foot           Nature’s beauty is at its maximum with every
                                                                                                          any part of this publication without                                     from the comfort of 1920s style luxury,     hand-made tailoring on The Row
resident is set on 3.94 acres of land, that   sunrise, sunset, foliage, winter snow, spring
                                                                                                          permission is strictly forbidden.                                        all with liveried stewards in attendance,   by launching their new and exciting
offer tranquility, tree top views, natural    flowers, and summer’s essence. The Art Lux
                                                                                                                                                                                   to the Hush Heath wine estate in Kent       'Bespoke 100' service.
rock cropping, and waterfront views. The      home has it all, the art, the luxury, the natural           ©Publications UK Limited 2020. The
                                                                                                                                                                                   to sample the vineyard’s delights.             Finally, read the news pages and
Art Lux home is within walking distance of    beauty, the views, and the perfect location. ♦              publishers make no recommendation in
                                                                                                          respect of any of the advertisers, and no
                                                                                                                                                                                      The best wine and food the Rhone         Golden Shears Awards to catch a
                                                                                                          recommendation may be implied                                            Valley has to offer is chronicled in        glimpse of new and emerging talent
                                                                                                          by way of the presence of their                                          Helena Nicklin’s four-day voyage            coming through the ranks, as bespoke
                                                                                                          advertisements.                                                          across the region starting in Lyon,         tailoring students and trainees
                                                                                                                                                                                   telling of the characteristics and blends   showcase and celebrate their winning
                                                                                                          DESIGNED & PUBLISHED BY                                                  from the North’s Syrah grape, to the        entries.
                                                                                                          PUBLICATIONS UK LIMITED
                                                                                                                                                                                   South’s Grenache and Mourvedre, all
                                                                                                          Tel: +44 (0) 20 8238 5000
                                                                                                          Email: info@publicationsuk.co.uk                                         three that are blends included in the       The Editor,
                  617 East 188th Street, Bronx NY 10458                                                   Web: www.publicationsuk.co.uk                                            famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape. She             Savile Row Style Magazine
         Hatema Helen Nezaj / Merita Nezaj - Tel: +1 718-365-4310
        Email: Helen@bajraktarirealty.com Web: www.artlux.com
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE         7
STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
Embracing Winter.   LUX Global Luxury Hotel & SPA Awards:
                    2019 –Best Family-Run Luxury Ski Hotel in the Alps
Since 1929.
                    World Luxury Hotel Awards:
                    2018 – “Winner Luxury Ski Hotel”- Western Europe

                    Connoisseur Circle:
                    2018 – “Best Winterhotel” - Austria

                    Gault Millau:
                    Josef Neulinger “Sommelier of the Year 2018”

                                                                s
                                                  Lech am Arlberg, Austria
                                                      www.almhof.at
STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
NEWS

NEWS                                                                                                                      Stories
                                                                                                                             from
                                                                                                                         the Row

Christmas on the Row
It was an evening of celebration as David Gandy switched on Savile Row's first festive lights display. The lights
were glowing over the festive period with an elegant display which brightened its famed houses

                he festivities kicked off last month   Estate commented: ‘’Savile Row’s first-ever        the mesmerising installation was switched on

   T            with an evening celebrating the
                craftsmanship and renowned
                expertise of Savile Row and
                                                       Christmas lights switch-on was a joyous event
                                                       for the Row, honouring the heritage and
                                                       artisanship which make this such a renowned
                                                                                                          by David Gandy, fashion icon, international
                                                                                                          model and longtime Savile Row patron.
                                                                                                             David said: "I am thrilled to celebrate
its tailors. Visitors were welcomed into the           destination for luxury tailoring. The night was    Christmas on the Row this year, and
world’s finest tailoring houses for late night         an excellent opportunity to showcase the           encourage all to come along to rejoice in the
shopping and were treated to music and                 world-class talent which we are home to, and       festivities. This marks a joyous occasion for
seasonal bites on the Row itself.                      welcome visitors to experience the delights of     Savile Row and I am honoured to be a part
   Julian Stocks, Acting CEO of The Pollen             the Row after dark.’ ’ In true Savile Row style,   of the evening."

 10 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE                                                                                                                             11
STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
®

                                                                                                       A Cold Wall winner
                                 MADE IN GERMANY

                                                                                                                                                                                                                   UK TAILORS
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   BRACED FOR
                                                                                                       The British designer Samuel Ross of the cult streetwear fashion brand A
                                                                                                                                                                                                                   US TARIFFS
     Have your dog with                                                                                Cold Wall has been named the winner of the UK’s biggest menswear prize
                                                                                                       for emerging talent, the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund                                                     Many in the British

     you while traveling –                                                                                                                                                                    Dylan Jones,
                                                                                                                                                                                              Samuel Ross,
                                                                                                                                                                                              Caroline Rush
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  fashion industry think the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  tariffs have targeted them
                                                                                                                                                                                              and Kevin Jiang     unfairly. Their Italian and
     even in your most                                                                                                                                                                        at the BFC/GQ
                                                                                                                                                                                              Menswear Fund
                                                                                                                                                                                              Award event
                                                                                                                                                                                              courtesy of the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  French counterparts will
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  not face similar 25 per

     valuable car.                                                                                                                                                                                                cent increases
                                                                                                                                                                                              British Fashion
                                                                                                                                                                                              Council by Darren
                                                                                                                                                                                              Gerrish
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               avile Row tailors were
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    S          among those effected
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               after the US government
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  announced that 25 per cent
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  tariffs would soon be applied to a
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  significant portion of their product
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  range upon export to the US.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Among the list of British-
                                                                                                                  ult fashion streetwear brand A-Cold-          Caroline Rush,                                    exported clothing items affected
                                                                                                         C        Wall* by designer Samuel Ross has
                                                                                                                  been named the 2019 winner of the
                                                                                                                                                             chief executive
                                                                                                                                                             officer of the British
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  include most types of men’s suits,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  cashmere sweaters, women’s
                                                                                                       BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund announced               Fashion Council, said                                anoraks and pyjamas.
                                                                                                       at a cocktail reception hosted at Annabel’s in        in a statement:“The judging committee was               International Trade Secretary
                                                                                                       London.                                               impressed with the quality of work, thought          Liz Truss says: "Resorting to
                                                                                                          Ross will receive a £150,000 cash prize and        process and determination of the talented            tit-for-tat tariffs is not in any
                                                                                                       12 months high-level mentoring to accelerate          2019 shortlist. Each designer has a bright future    country's best interests and we
                                                                                                       his business’ growth and global reputation.           ahead of them.                                       are in regular contact with the
                                                                                                          A Cold Wall is described as a curated                 “There can only be one winner and Ross            Trump administration, urging
                                                                                                       product of British culture birthed out of the         proved to be the strongest candidate with the        them to refrain from resorting
                                                                                                       respected fields of fashion, design, installation     most comprehensive business strategy and             to such measures. "As well as
                                                                                                       art and material study where inanimate reality        decisive plans on how to use the fund to his         causing temporary disruption
                                                                                                       of buildings, industrial material and geographic      best advantage to propel and cement A-Cold-          to UK businesses, it would also
                                                                                                       memory are translated into wearable concepts.         Wall* on the global stage.”                          hit American consumers in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  pocket."
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Arguably, the type of people

                                                                                                       Hackett on the Row                                                                                         who have a bespoke suit made by
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  a Savile Row tailor are not short
                                                                                                                                                                                                                  of a pound or two.
                                                                                                       JP Hackett has opened the Savile Row townhouse location with the high-end                                     “We’re better known in New
                                                                                                       menswear brand adding further to its central London offering                                                 York than we are in Newcastle,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                    so we’ve always had a very strong
                                                                                                                  he importance of the Savile Row opening is clear                                                   American presence,” says Sean
                                                                The Doctor Bark car blanket              T        with the company calling it "our new home of
                                                                                                                  bespoke”. London’s Savile Row is the heart of global
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Dixon, co-founder of Savile
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Row tailor Richard James. The
                                                                  keeps the rear seats or the          bespoke menswear tailoring and in a world in which ultra-luxury                                                company opened its first store
                                                                                                       is the most dynamic segment of the market, exploiting the                                                      in the US at the end of last
                                                           boot clean and odourless thanks             willingness of the high-end consumer to spend thousands on a                                                    year and has plans to expand
                                                            to the unique all side protection.         special piece make commercial sense.
                                                                                                           The 36-year-old brand’s townhouse, which was formerly home
                                                                                                                                                                                                                       further in the country. "The
                                                                                                                                                                                                                        customer base is fairly affluent,"
                                                                                                       to couturier Hardy Amies, opened recently at No 14 Savile Row,                                                   admits Mr Dixon, whose
                                                            TIMELESS DESIGN | HAND-MADE IN GERMANY     and it comes complete with a team of traditional tailors. But                                                    clients include actor Benedict
                                                                                                       ready-to-wear won’t be neglected with dedicated RTW rooms in                                                      Cumberbatch, footballer David
                                                       HIGH-QUALITY MATERIALS | WASHABLE UP TO 95° C   the space. There’s also room for other products such as vintage                                                   Beckham and rapper P Diddy.
                                                                                                       accessories.                                                                                                      "Nevertheless, an increase
                                                                                                           Although Hackett hasn’t disclosed how much it spent on the                                                    is an increase and we pride
                                                                                                       townhouse, it was clearly a lot. The location’s interior makeover was                                              ourselves on people getting
                                                                                                       created by brand founder Jeremy Hackett with interior designer                                                     value for money, especially for
                                                                                                       Ben Pentreath with plenty of original features having been retained.                                               a Savile Row suit.

                                                                                 doctorbark.co.uk
12   SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE                                                                                                                                                                                     SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE            13
STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
NEWS                                                                                                                        NEWS

SRBA: Supporting skills
and training initiatives
Eighty-two young people have now completed SRBA apprenticeships on Savile Row since the association
was founded in 2004, which bodes very well for the future of bespoke tailoring on our unique street

                  ongratulations from everyone at

     C
                  the Savile Row Bespoke Association
                  (SRBA) to this year’s successful
                  apprentices, who received their
                  SRBA Diplomas at the Bespoke
Tailors’ Benevolent Association (BTBA) summer
party at the Merchant Taylors’ Hall on Friday 5th July.
   Pictured, from left to right, at the party are SRBA
Director Su Thomas, Katarzyna Zlotorzynska of
Huntsman, Tara Louise Hansen of Kathryn Sargent,
Keiichi Inakura of Gieves & Hawkes, SRBA Chairman
William Skinner, Christian Greenwood and Iona
Knight of Dege & Skinner, Abby Robertson of Henry
Poole & Co and Philip Parker, the Head Cutter of
Henry Poole & Co. Su Thomas and Philip Parker
both acted as assessors.
   A full apprenticeship course has also been
established since the inception of SRB which
has regenerated the craft. In 2004, there was a
desperate need to revive the Row and get young
people to engage with the craft. Savile Row
Bespoke Association Manager Su Thomas has
been the driving force behind the apprentice
scheme and with the support of the member
houses the Row has been revived. Inside a
few years, the average age of the tailors on
Savile Row has fallen from around 60 to 40
and below.
   The SRBA apprenticeship scheme is open
to all, but the principal route to achieving
the Diploma is through completion of the
SRBA’s Diploma apprenticeship course whilst
in employment with one of our member
companies.

14   SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE                                                                        SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE   15
STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
NEWS                                                                                                                                                                                       GOLDEN SHEARS

MAKING
THE CUT
This year's winner was
Maurice Sedwell apprentice
Rachel Singer who impressed
with her double-breasted
Prince of Wales checked suit

H
          aving passed the first stage of the
          competition, judged by a panel                                                                                                            top teaching colleges,
          of top bespoke tailors, Rachel                                                                                                            alongside a panel of five VIP judges including
went on to win the final, in a catwalk                                                                                                              David Gandy and Jodie Kidd, who adjudicated on the stylistic
show held at the Merchant Taylors’ Hall                                                                                                             aptitude of the finalists’ work.
in the City of London.                                                                                                                                 Created to support young aspiring tailors from
   Rachel's winning entry - a double                                                                                                                universities, colleges and apprentice schemes whilst
breasted Prince of Wales checked,                                                                                                                   promoting the art of bespoke tailoring, the 2019 finalists
tailored trousers suit, with long,                                                                                                                  included entries from London-based tailors such as Henry
cappuccino, cream wool coat and brown                                                                                                               Poole, Davies & Son, Maurice Sedwell, Dunhill, Huntsman,
horn button detail - was awarded first                                                                                                              Dege & Skinner and teaching colleges such as the London
place by a panel of celebrity and industry                                                                                                          College of Fashion and Wimbledon College of Arts and a
expert guest judges including model                                                                                                                 handful from further afield including the Leeds College of
David Gandy, TV presenter and model                                                                                                                 Arts and Rochester and De Montfort University, Leicester.
Jodie Kidd, MBE Mich Turner, menswear                                                                                                                  Key supporters of the Golden Shears Awards include: The
stylist and writer Tom Stubbs and mens                                                                                                              Merchant Taylors’ Company, CAPITB Trust, formerly the
stylist Joe Ottaway.                                                                                                                                Clothing and Allied Products Industry Training Board, an
   Up until 2015, Rachel was completely                                                                                                             independent charity that exists to enhance the skill base of
self-taught in cutting and sewing. In                                                                                                               the British fashion industry. Over the years, the trust has
2015 she joined The Savile Row Academy                                                                                                              invested time and support into a number of initiatives that
where she was introduced to the bespoke                                                                                                             have been specially designed to promote the importance of
process from cutting through to coat                                                                                                                teaching and the application of skills within the industry;
making. Following her time at the                                                                                                                   this year marks the fifth time the trust will support the
Academy, Rachel joined the Maurice                                                                                                                  Golden Shears Awards. The Worshipful Company of
Sedwell apprenticeship for coat making                                                                                                              Woolmen, have dealt with the trade since the foundation
and in 2018 moved from the workshop                                                                                                                 of the guild in the early 12th century and the Pollen Estate,
to the shop floor where she now cuts                                                                                                                and are landlord of much of Savile Row, the home of British
coats and helps to train new coat makers.                                                                                                           men’s tailoring, and the jewel in the craft’s Crown.
Rachel aspires to be a cutter who can                                                                                                                  The Silver Shears were awarded to Edward Jones, a
confidently and skillfully cut for both                                                                                                             student currently studying at UCA Rochester for his design
men and women.                                  The Golden Shears Award was founded in 1974 by Robert Bright, the                                   of a lightweight frosted navy and white chalk stripe cropped
                                                then President of the Federation of Merchant Tailors, to identify the best                          jacket with matching pleated culottes over layered tulle
                                                                                                                                                    pantaloons, and the Rising Star accolade was won by Sophie
                                                apprentice tailor in the UK, to encourage young people to join the trade
                                                                                                                                                    Weller, an apprentice at Dunhill.
                                                - and to raise the profile of perhaps Britain’s greatest craft industry

                                                                 ubbed the ‘Oscars of Savile          Twenty-four students and trainees

                                                  D              Row’, the award is a bi-annual
                                                                 competition championed by
                                                                 the Worshipful Company of
                                                                                                   progressed to this final stage after intense
                                                                                                   competition following a nationwide
                                                                                                   campaign to attract the best young talent in
                                                Merchant Taylors. Tailoring students and           the trade. The resurgence in interest in craft
                                                apprentices from around the country vie            industry and bespoke tailoring in particular,
                                                for the Golden Shears trophy and £3,000            makes this year’s competition the most
                                                of prize money. The 2019 competition               keenly anticipated for several years. The
                                                concluded on Monday March 18 at the                standard was such that all the finalists can
                                                grandiloquent Merchant Taylor’s Hall in the        expect a bright future in the trade. The
                                                City of London, held by the livery company         finalists presented their finished garments,
                                                toSimon
                                                    celebrate   the award
                                                          Cundey,          andoftheir
                                                                    chairman     the connection    shown by professional models on a catwalk,
                                                with   the Shears
                                                   Golden   tailoring
                                                                   andtrade, which dates back to
                                                                        managing                   to a panel of top bespoke tailors and to
                                                before   theofcompany
                                                   director              was&honoured
                                                               Henry Poole    Co        with its   an audience selected from the worlds of
                                                first Royal Charter in 1327.                       finance, fashion, tailoring and the industry’s

16 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE                                                                                                                                                  SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE       17
STYLE SPIRIT OF - Inside - Savile Row Style Magazine
SAVILE ROW GIN

                                      SAVILE ROW GIN
                                   Gin is the quintessential London drink and Savile Row Gin embodies the classic style of the capital, so
                                   to combine the two creates a product that just oozes elegance and crafted excellence. But the exquisite
                                       union nearly didn’t happen. Tim Newark meets Savile Row Gin founder and CEO, Stewart Lee

                                                     had a heart                    key figures like Angus Cundey. I        worked with top designer Micha

                                      I
                                                     stopping                       was determined to uphold their          Weidmann Studio to ensure the
                                                     moment,” says                  values of quality, their appeal to      bottle epitomises Savile Row,
                                                     Savile Row Gin                 the public, and, of course, promote     not too loud, very stylish and
                                                     founder Stewart                bespoke men’s tailoring. I think my     elegant. We are very proud of that
                                                     Lee. “The whole                magazine work enabled me to gain        branding.”
                                 project depended on getting the                    their trust for this new venture.”         The association will be further
                                 whole-hearted support of Savile                       Distilled in traditional copper      enhanced when bottles are
                                 Row tailors. At lunch at Brown’s I                 pots under the expert eye of award-     wrapped in a gift bag packaging
                                 told Angus Cundey MBE about it,                    winning distiller Rob Dorsett,          made of Winston Churchill
                                 and for the longest ten seconds of                 Savile Row Gin is a blend of 12         pinstripe cloth cut and designed
                                 my life, he took a deep pause…”                    botanicals, with traditional juniper    on Savile Row. On that detail
                                    Affectionately known as the                     matched with the freshness of           alone, I can see it becoming the
                                 “Godfather of the Row,” Mr Cundey                  coriander and a unique citrus           perfect present for any admirer of
                                 is Chairman of one of Savile Row’s                 hint of kumquat. A key part of its      the great man.
                                 most prestigious and original                      distinct character is its witty glass      Already, Savile Row Gin has
                                 tailors, Henry Poole & Co. “He                     design.                                 attracted several key partners
                                 cocked his head to one side and                       “You look at the bottle and          including Jack Barclay Bentley,
                                 then said yes, he thought it was a                 you can see the broad shoulders         Bonhams, and London Fashion
                                 wonderful idea.”                                   narrowing down like a suit. You         Week Men’s, operated by the British
                                    It was only fitting then that                   might think it would be easy            Fashion Council. “Savile Row is an
                                 I should interview Stewart Lee                     choosing a bottle but we saw it as      iconic brand and we want to work
                                 at Henry Poole to get the inside                   vital way of establishing the unique    with other iconic brands in the
                                 story of the exclusive coupling,                   personality of the brand.” Next         area,” says Stewart.
                                 surrounded by portraits of                         came the label.                            Indeed, the gin’s first exposure to
                                 historic clients, including Sir                       “We used a Goudy Old Style serif     the public was at LAPADA, the high
                                 Winston Churchill, and a framed                    font which is very much going back      profile art fair in Berkeley Square
                                 facsimile of a cheque signed by                    into the heritage of Savile Row.        in Mayfair. “I couldn’t believe my
                                 author Charles Dickens for £15 of                  Then we thought about what does         luck,” he recalls. “At first they said
                                 tailoring. A bronze imperial French                every Savile Row tailor possess as      no way, they knew me but they
                                 eagle happens to hang behind                       the distinctive tool of their trade?    didn’t know the gin. I’ve been the
                                 the counter, a gift from Emperor                   We thought scissors but then, of        publisher to LAPADA for 15 years,
                                 Napoleon III, who was their first                  course, crossed needles and thread      producing their official catalogue
                                 royal client when they opened their                came to us and we’ve picked them        before they were even in Berkeley
                                 shop in the vicinity in 1828.                      out in gold foil on the label. We       Square. I gave them a nudge and
                                    “As publisher of Savile Row                                                             nothing happened, then about four
                                 Style magazine, I’ve worked with                                                           weeks before the fair they phoned
                                 the Row for many years,” says         Already Savile Row Gin has attracted                 me up and said though they’d not
                                 Stewart. “It was important I got      several key partners including                       tasted it yet, I’d produced good
                                 the support of several prominent      Jack Barclay Bentley, Bonhams                        publications for them and they
                                 members of the Savile Row                                                                  trusted me to produce a damn good
                                 Bespoke Association, including
                                                                       and London Fashion Week Men’s                        gin too!”

18   SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE                                                                                                 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE        19
Dege & Skinner recently
 Stewart Lee, founder and CEO, Savile Row Gin
                                                                                             celebrated its 150th anniversary,
                                                                                             tracing its history back to Jacob
                                                                                             Dege, a German immigrant who
                                                                                             came to London in 1855, quickly
                                                                                             building a fine tailoring business
                                                                                             in nearby Conduit Street. His son
                                                                                             then met a young Englishman called
                                                                                             William Skinner, whose family
                                                                                             was trading in Jermyn Street and a
                                                                                             tailoring legend was established. Just
                                                                                             as Savile Row can trace its history
                                                                                             back over centuries, so can gin.
                                                                                             Originally distilled in Dutch cities in
                                                                                             the 16th century, it became a quick
                                                                                             favourite with English soldiers who
                                                                                             liked a sip of it before battle, hence
                                                                                             the phrase “Dutch courage”.
                                                                                                When Dutch King William
                                                                                             became a British sovereign, gin
                                                                                             became a fashionable drink in
                                                                                             London. So much so that 7,000 gin
                                                                                             shops rapidly opened across the
                                                                                             capital in the 18th century. When
                                                                                             a gin tax was imposed, there was
"The immediate response to the drink and brand was fantastic.                                rioting in the streets and the duty
You’re always worried that you’ll see half-full glasses lying around,                        was later reduced.
                                                                                                Gin is still a vital part of Brand
but everyone loved it and wanted more"                                                       UK, just like Savile Row. “So highly
                                                                                             regarded is this street around
   Stewart had the gin sponsorship              wanted this to be something social,          the world, that in Japan a suit is
for the fair and it turned out to be a          something fun. Something I could             apparently referred to as ‘Sebiro’,”
gamble well worth taking.                       grow and work with friends and               reveals Robin Dutt, “a delightful
   “The immediate response to                   business partners and they have              accolade.” Henry Poole and other
the drink and brand was fantastic.              already contributed valuable advice.”        tailors have already opened
You’re always worried that you’ll                  Top male model David Gandy                branches in China and the growing
see half-full glasses lying around,             is a partner in the business and is          Asian market. Stewart must be
but everyone loved it and wanted                lending his elegant good looks to            hoping his gin literally follows suit.
more. We were delighted and                     promoting the drink, while fashion              He added: “The idea is to start in
deeply privileged to be launched                guru and style consultant Robin              the heartland in Mayfair but then
there in the heartland of Mayfair               Dutt immediately appreciated the             appeal to people across the country
in Berkeley Square, one of the most             special combination. “Savile Row             and then hopefully around the
iconic squares in London and very               Gin has been specially crafted as a          world—why not?”
fitting for Savile Row Gin”                     suit of quality must always be,” he             The British Empire originally
   Since then it has been served at             notes. “A Savile Row suit is unique          helped spread the classic pairing of
leading events, including a drinks              and Savile Row Gin has a distinct            gin and tonic. In tropical colonies,
reception at Kensington Palace.                 hallmark when it comes to an                 the anti-malarial quinine was
“For our gin brand to be served at a            individual taste.”                           dissolved in carbonated water to
royal residence was a real honour.”                 Part of its genius is that it feels as   make tonic water.
   As a publisher, he produced the              though it has already been around               For the perfect gin and tonic,
Queen’s Diamond Jubilee official                forever.                                     Stewart recommends combining
programme in 2012.                                 “Savile Row as a moniker of               50ml of Savile Row Gin with 150ml
   For Stewart, it is the realisation           sartorial elegance goes back over            classic Indian tonic water, finished
of a personal dream. “I was out with            200 years and is respected the               off with a slice of pink grapefruit
some friends and must admit it                  world over,” says Robin. “Every              and a mint leaf. “You could almost
first came to me one evening over a             tailor is unique and all are part of         call it tailored perfection,” he
few gin and tonics,” he laughs. “I’ve           the Savile Row family.”                      quips. “Our gin is very smooth and
always loved gin and there are some                Stewart agrees. “A Savile Row             I believe it’s a very good sipping gin
amazing gins out there. It was just             suit will last a lifetime. I was             as well.”
that eureka moment.                             once talking to Michael Skinner,
   “My whole career has been in                 Chairman of Dege & Skinner and               For all purchasing and general
magazine publishing and I’ve felt               he opened up his suit jacket and             enquiries about Savile Row Gin,
for some time that I was looking for            proudly showed me the label dating           email: info@savilerow-gin.co.uk
a new challenge. With my business               back to 1975. It looked as good as if        or telephone 020 8238 5023.
experience and contacts, I felt I               it had been made yesterday.”                 www.savilerow-gin.co.uk
                                                                                                                                       gievesandhawkes.com
20 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE
SAVILE ROW GIN

 SAVILE ROW GIN ANNOUNCES
  NEW GLOBAL AMBASSADOR
     When Britain's newest gin brand launched at Gieves & Hawkes, David Gandy was there to lend his
            support and confirm his involvement in one of Mayfair's most exciting start-ups

                 ntrepreneur and British

     E
                 style icon David Gandy
                 was in Gieves & Hawkes
                 on Savile Row, to help
                 launch Savile Row Gin.
Britain’s newest gin brand is a London
dry gin made with a blend of 12 botanicals
including kumquats.
   The gin is juniper and citrus forward,
with the citrus notes balanced by
spice from coriander and pepper. The
production process is overseen by Master
Distiller Rob Dorsett.
   Savile Row Gin adds to David’s existing
portfolio of British brand investments
and is one of three that he is personally
involved in on a day-to-day basis.
   “I look to invest in British start-ups that
I believe to be of superior quality with
inspirational teams," he said.
   "As a lover of gin, Savile Row Gin stood
out from the crowd with its smoothness
and flavour. I loved the fact that it is a
quintessentially British product, produced
in the UK and curated on one of Britain’s
most iconic streets, one that stands for
craftsmanship and quality.
   He added: "I’m excited to be part of the
team to help expand and grow the brand.”
   Savile Row Gin is the brainchild of
Stewart Lee, Managing Director of Savile
Row Style Magazine. As its long-time
publisher, he believed he was the right
person to launch Savile Row Gin and
sought the support of stakeholders on the
Row, including many of the historic Savile
Row tailoring houses.
   Stewart commented: “I wanted to
create a spirit that celebrated Britain’s
proud tailoring heritage with a gin that
had a taste and aesthetic that upheld the
values of its iconic London namesake. A
Savile Row suit is known universally as
the best one can buy.
   “With the name comes a level of
expectation. Using the same artistry and
attention to detail, we feel that we have
crafted a gin that the Row would be proud
to serve.
   “David embodies the refined elegance
and style of Savile Row and I am
delighted to have his support, both as an
ambassador and investor for the brand.”

22   SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE                                                                        SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE   23
ART & EXHIBITIONS

LAPADA ART &
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            established art dealers for more than
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            120 years. “The family involvement
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            commenced in 1893 when my great
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            uncle Rayner MacConnal formed a

ANTIQUES FAIR                                                                                                                                                                                                               partnership with Archibald Phillips
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            founding a company called Phillips &
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            MacConnal,” says Chairman David L

DAZZLES AGAIN
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Mason. “The head office was in the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Burlington Arcade.”
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Since then they’ve developed an
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            expertise in British and European fine

IN BERKELEY                                                                                                                                                                                                                 art of the 19th and 20th centuries with
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            some sumptuous post-impressionist
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            works. Director Simon Carter is

SQUARE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            impressed with the sheer range of
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            masterpieces on display at LAPADA.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            “It’s an elegant fair that starts at an
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            accessible level, with pieces for the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            new collector and connoisseur alike.”
There's little more enjoyable than wandering around the                                                                                                                                                                         This year MacConnal-Mason
best of Britain’s art and antique dealers with a glass of                                                                                                                                                                   hoped to dazzle collectors with two
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            spectacular pieces. “The first is a view of
something bubbly in hand in the heart of London’s most                                                                                                                                                                      New York Harbour painted c1919 by
elegant of squares, says Tim Newark. So, why bother                                                                                                                                                                         the renowned British First World War
traipsing around the country when you can see 100 top                                                                                                                                                                       artist Christopher RW Nevinson,” says
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Simon. “The second is an epic panorama
exhibitors concentrated under one pretty marquee                                                                                                                                                                            of the Thames painted in 1875 with St
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            Paul’s Cathedral as the main subject.”
                 love seeing the trunks      a silver Regency etui sewing set for                                                                                                                                               “Above all,” he enthuses, “it’s an

     I
                 of Berkeley Square’s        £4 in 1954. In those days, he used                                                                                                                                             interesting, entertaining and eclectic fair
                 venerable 200-year-         to career around the country on a                                                                                                                                              in a fantastic location.”
                 old plane trees             second-hand motorbike collecting                                                                                                                                                    Mr Carter agrees that the fair is
                 peeking between             pieces but now they’re more sedately                                                                                                                                           not just about connoisseurship, but is
the gallery spaces. Now in its tenth         situated in Mason’s Yard in London’s St                                                                                                                                        also immensely good fun. LAPADA
anniversary year, LAPADA’s Art               James’s. For them LAPADA is a great                                                                                                                                            makes sure that visitors can attend
& Antiques Fair brings together a            opportunity to widen the audience for                                                                                                                                          interesting related events. This year is
sophisticated blend of art galleries,        their exquisite silverware.                    (T) Sylvain Lefebvre                                                                                        (L) Charming Arts   the 200th anniversary of Burlington
                                                                                            “Louise and the                                                                                             & Crafts double
selling both contemporary and                    “There are not that many antique                                                                                                                                           Arcade and the organisers hope
                                                                                            round blue, mixed                                                                                           chair by George
historic art, combined with antique          fairs around now that have that high           media on canvas.                                                                                            Henry Walton.       to conduct daily tours to one of
dealers offering objets from antiquity       profile,” agrees Edward Bourdon-Smith.         (Rebecca Hossack                                                                                            (Holly Johnson      the world’s first shopping arcades,
to mid-century modern. Whatever                  Contemporary art gallery owner             Art Gallery)                                                                                                Antiques)           currently home to some of the
your house or apartment needs to             Rebecca Hossack picks up on the rich                                                                                                                       (R). Emma           dealers at the fair. Make sure to ask
                                                                                            (L) New York
deliver that discerning decorative           range of artwork on display. “What I                                                                                                                       Howarth, Park       about the secret tunnels running
                                                                                            Harbour c1919                                                                                               Proverbs, oil on
punch is here.                               love about exhibiting at LAPADA, is            by British First                                                                                                                beneath the corridor that delivered
                                                                                                                                                                                                        canvas. (Rebecca
    LAPADA—the Association of Art            the incredible wealth of knowledge at          World War artist                                                                                            Hossack Art
                                                                                                                                                                                                                            goods to Victorian purchasers, awaiting
& Antique Dealers—was established            the fair through each dealer, who has          CRW Nevinson.                                                                                               Gallery)            them in carriages at either end.
in 1974 and has over 500 worldwide           their own encyclopaedic awareness              (MacConnal-                                                                                                                         The Fair culminated in a spectacular
members. Crucially for collectors, it        of their special subject. It’s wonderful
                                                                                            Mason)                 "What I love about exhibiting at LAPADA, is the                                                          gala on Monday September 16th
maintains a strict Code of Practice,         to see beautiful Elizabethan chairs and        (B) Epic panorama      incredible wealth of knowledge at the fair through                                                       to raise funds for Sarabande, the
offering total reassurance when              jewels juxtaposed with contemporary                                                                                                                                            charitable Foundation established by
purchasing from a LAPADA dealer.             art.”
                                                                                            of the Thames
                                                                                            painted in 1875
                                                                                                                   each dealer, who has their own encyclopaedic                                                             fashion icon Lee Alexander McQueen.
You will find a rich variety of works            She also likes the sense of fun. “I love   with St Paul’s         awareness of their special subject" REBECCA HOSSACK                                                      The money will provide scholarships,
                                                                                            Cathedral.
here, including jewellery, furniture,        the amazing marquee, the champagne             (MacConnal-                                                                                                                     studio space and mentorship for future
tapestries, antiquities, clocks, ceramics,   and the restaurant on the top floor—           Mason)                    Holly Johnson Antiques is based       the fair, they had some breath-taking                           generations of creatives working in
silver and fine art, with prices ranging     all in the best part of London. I love all                            in Cheshire on the outskirts of          pieces of craftsmanship to display. “We                         fashion, art, design and craft, a nice gift
from £500 to £500,000.                       the international clients and that it is                              Macclesfield so their regular presence   like to bring our high end pieces by                            to encourage the myriad artists whose
    JH Bourdon-Smith specialise              a time of year when everyone comes                                    in Berkeley Square certainly saves       specific designers of the 20th century,”                        work provides the raison d’etre for the
in antique and modern silver and             back from summer holidays looking                                     the train fare visiting them. “We        reveals Holly. “This year we will be                            show in the first place.
are enthusiastic supporters of the           tanned, gorgeous and happy! All of                                    like exhibiting at the LAPADA Fair       showing some individual pieces of
Berkeley Square fair. “It is brilliantly     this adds up to a beautiful occasion.”                                because the central location entices     furniture designed by Peter Waals,                              Tickets for LAPADA Art & Antiques
situated,” says Edward Bourdon-Smith.        Major artists exhibiting at the                                       a good mixture of British and            Piero Fornasetti and Edward Barnsley.”                          Fair cost £20 and can be bought
“It has a good party atmosphere and          Rebecca Hossack gallery during the                                    international wealthy clients,” says     With their sumptuous Fornasetti                                 online or on the door from the event
gets the buzz going very well.”              fair include Sylvain Lefebvre, Andrew                                 Holly, “as well as a good section of     “Malachite” cabinet, it is definitely one                       box office. For more information visit
    The family-run business began            Mockett, Emma Haworth and Barbara                                     international interior designers.”       of the most eye-catching stands.                                www.lapadalondon.com. LAPADA
when John Bourdon-Smith purchased            Macfarlane.                                                               Focusing on 20th century design at       MacConnal-Mason have been                                   runs from September 13-18.

24 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE                                                                                                                                                                                                    SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE           25
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RICHARD JAMES

                                       RTLESS
                               EEFLFEO
                                      GANCE
                                    ROBIN DUTT                      ooking languid and            Everything exudes peace and civility. But

                                                       L
                                                                    comfortable in his            like the proverbial swan which glides, one

                                RECALLS A STROLL
                                                                    eponymous shop, Richard       can conjure the purposeful action of the
                                                                    James strikes a familiar      feet beneath the water's surface.

                                   HE TOOK WITH
                                                                    pose. That air of natural        James shows me some mannequins
                                                    ease and elegance has not deserted him in     in the window sporting a selection of
                                                    a quarter of a century since the company's    stage clothes for Sir Elton John, proudly
                                 RICHARD JAMES      founding and even before that, when           pointing out the exquisite details and for a
                                                    I initially encountered him as a chief        second referencing the splashes of crystals
                               DOWN SAVILE ROW.     buyer for the internationally acclaimed       'each one applied by hand,' he opines, even
                                                    boutique, Browns. At this time, Browns        the seemingly most insignificant example.
                                HERE, HE REFLECTS   was a magnetic go-to for shrewd shoppers      Then he invites me to consider the slicing
                                                    who wanted edge - not shock - and James       exactitude of the company's bespoke best.
                                ON JAMES’ CAREER    was part of a team which really knew what As he describes these garments, there is a
                                                    was what. Their judicious choices made        undoubted sparkle of nostalgia and pride
                               AS AN UNDISPUTED     the shop eclectic
                                                    and unusual and
                                                                                                                            in his eyes.
                                                                                                                               Many
                                                                             “We were not very well
                                 MASTER OF STYLE    James played no
                                                    small part in the        accepted at the start. People immediately refer
                                                                                                                            commentators

                                        AND CUT     appreciation of
                                                    Sydney and Joan
                                                                             thought that we were using                     to Richard James as
                                                                                                                            a 'celebrity tailor'
                                                                             the name of Savile Row to
                                                    Bernstein's idea                                                        and whilst this may
                                                    of what a fashion        better ourselves. We just                      have more than a
                                                    store should be on       came into Savile Row to do                     modicum of truth
                                                    that once natural        things in different ways"                      about it (customers
                                                    London catwalk,                                                         include Mark
                                                    South Molton                                                            Ronson, Benedict
                                                    Street.                                       Cumberbatch, Daniel Craig, Jude Law,
                                                       But perhaps one in retrospect cannot       Tom Cruise and Bryan Ferry) this is not
                                                    be surprised that with his eye for detail     the only (however important) element of
                                                    and knowledge of cut, this graduate of        Richard James, the tailor. Such clients as
                                                    Brighton College of Art would want an         master couturier, Christian Lacroix, shoe
                                                    emporium of his own - a playground            supremo, Manolo Blahnik and designer,
                                                    where the message is stridently serious. He David Linley - fellow creators - have been
                                                    is master of cloth and cut and in fact, has   more than happy to be measured up for
                                                    been described by writer and academic,        that James silhouette. But it was not
                                                    Colin McDowell as 'the best colourist         from day one, exactly plain sailing. In an
                                                    working in menswear in London today.'         interview with Gentlemen's Journal, James
                                                       James is often referred to as the first of says, “We were not very well accepted at
                                                    the 'new establishment' or 'new bespoke'      the start. People thought that we were
                                                    of Savile Row. Even more than 25 years on, using the name of Savile Row to better
                                                    his beaming face and ready chuckle impart ourselves. We just came into Savile Row to
                                                    a sense of mischievous charm - boyish and do things in different ways.”
                                                    high-spirited despite the travelled years        Savile Row is undoubtedly a family and
                                                    and much hard work. The business runs         like most families, not everyone pledges
                                                    smoothly and the knowledgeable staff,         undying allegiance to all members. As
                                                    a definite cut (or more) above the norm.      a street of tailors it stands alone in the

28 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE                                                                                  SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE      29
XXX                                                                                                      RICHARD JAMES

                                          world - a rich seam of the uniquely
                                   precious knowledge and skill running
                               through the mediocrity of fashion. But James
                     would be the first to both celebrate its over 200 year
                  past and court the contemporary - with taste. He recalls
                 one incident.
                    "Sir Hardy Amies was marvellous," he says. "I well recall
                 his chauffeur-driven car pulling up outside Richard James
                 and Sir Hardy emerging like Lady Bracknell. He'd cast a
                 lugubrious eye over the bright pink and acid green jackets in
                 our window before shaking his head at us in mock disbelief.
                 And then he smiled."
                    As I know only too well, having interviewed Sir Hardy
                 and enjoyed his company, the mischief is evident. This was
                 typical Amies - with pomp and circumstance and a little
                 show of cheeky disapproval from the man who set up his
                 establishment in 1946, was Dressmaker to Her Majesty
                 the Queen and had seen little change in the Row. But that
                 mock disbelief and the eventual smile seem to carry with
                 them some affection and regard for what a younger James
                 was doing.
                    Deep, vibrant, jewel colours have always been part of
                 James' sartorial autobiography. In fact, three Richard James
                 pieces, greatly loved and sadly loved by moths too, used
                 to hang in my wardrobe - a royal purple cashmere jogging
                 suit, a duck egg blue blazer with mother of pearl buttons
                 and a two-piece suit in subtle candy coloured stripes.
                 Moths are famous for choosing the best.
                    But there is more than a place for a classic navy blue         Tunick. The cheeky boy in James has always
                                          suit - Richard James style. I was        found outlets. There is seriousness, irony
       Richard James takes his once consulted where to find                       and humour in much of his work - larger
       role as a creator on the such a suit for a special occasion               than average window pane checks, outsize dot
       Row seriously and feels and             I immediately said
                                          James' establishment.
                                                                                  motifs and again those electric, fizzy sherbet
                                                                                      hues.
      that he has more than a I accompanied the                                             And James certainly has been
         responsibility to do so gentleman, the cloth                                       recognised for his talent and
                                          was chosen, the                                    business acumen. In 1996, he was
                 form measured, the deal done and all in                                      awarded the Evening Standard's
                 the space of what seemed minutes - though                                     Eros Award as Retailer of the Year.
                 not rushed - with expert hands and eyes                                        He was Menswear Designer of
                 constantly vigilant. Then he took me for an                                     the Year, awarded by the British
                 overly extravagant lunch to celebrate.                                          Fashion Council in 2001. He
                    Richard James takes his role as a creator                                      won the Best Advertising
                 on the Row seriously and feels that he                                            Campaign for Autumn/Winter
                 has more than a responsibility to do so.                                         2007. In 2018, he received an
                 He was a founding member of the Savile                                          OBE. Real estate developer and
                 Row Bespoke Association and ever with                                        film producer, Charles S. Cohen
                 an eye not to revolutionize the street but                              took a majority stake in Richard James
                 maximise its allure and charm, pioneered                             in 2017 and assumed the role of chairman.
                 Saturday opening times. Perhaps one                                Last year, Richard James opened on Park
                 might imagine the sound of tailor's                                Avenue, New York.
                 shears crashing to the wooden floors in                               James and I decide to take a stroll down
                 horror, initially.                                                 Savile Row and he reminisces about the
                    It is also Richard James' pioneering                           people he had known and knows and the
                 spirit which has seen some unusual                                changes which have come about. It is all
                 elements of the business such as                                  too evident that he loves his home turf.
                 controversial advertisements, one was                             Appropriately, we come to a stop at what
                 banned, depicting a sartorially perfect                            used to be the House of Hardy Amies - a
                 gentleman throwing himself off the                                 beautiful building which would make a
                 top of a building, perhaps inspired by                             stupendous town house. We both talk
                 artist Yves Klein's performance leap,                              about the unrivalled salon shows held
                 'Into the Void', the sharp camouflage                              there - all gilt and mirrors - 'Just like my
                 suit - a uniform in its own right and                              bedroom!' he laughs.
                 the 'Naked Suit' in collaboration with                                There seems to be a twinkle in his eye, as
                 mass nudity photographer, Spencer                                 he looks at the old building again.

                                                                                               SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE        31
Relive the Winning Cup of                                                                               Moments of
              Emperor Franz-Joseph of Austria                                                                           imperial pleasure
                          There is a story behind every winning cup.                                                    More than a statement of
                  The journey of the Royal coffeemaker began in the late 1850s                                          extraordinary taste...
EMPEROR FRANZ-JOSEPH and his              fascinated. As the golden canister      This piece became the talk of the     It is a commitment to making every moment
wife, Empress, Elisabeth of Austria       pivoted up, allowing boiling water    night and herald a new must-have        of your life extraordinary. To share the
were to host a Royal banquet.             to melange with finely ground         fashion statement and gift for only     extraordinary and celebrate with those you
They were expecting all the courts        coffee, flowing effortlessly back     the most discerning dinner hosts.       love, family and friends. The Royal Coffee
of Europe at their spectacular            into the kettle, and almost like         The Emperor and his wife had         maker isn’t just about brewing the finest
Schonbrunn Palace, their impressive       magic, releasing the most palette-    won the night, the admiration of        coffee or being the celebrated host, it is about
summer residence, and the hub             pleasing and sensory elevating        their guests, and transformed           elevating every moment and celebrating
of royal social life. It was set to be    experience.                           everyone's relationship with coffee     life at the highest level. It’s about honoring
a grand occasion, reflecting the            The courts marveled. They had       forever.                                tradition and creating a new legacy.
wealth and power of the Hapsburgs.        never seen anything quite like this     Following the tradition of the
   The Emperor was very liked by all      and everyone wanted to own one.       Emperor's original coffee maker,        It’s time to claim your winning cup of coffee to
and wanted to ensure that every                                                 every detail is etched into the Royal   experiencing moments of imperial pleasure.
guest had an extraordinary                                                            siphon with great precision
experience that they would                                                            by      our     award-winning
never forget.                                                                         Parisian sculptor and the
   In those days, coffee was                                                          finest goldsmiths in Europe.
the new fashion statement                                                                Every machine is adorned
in Europe and everyone                                                                with finely custom designed
who was anyone had a                                                                  Baccarat glass firmly seated
contraption to show. The                                                              on a malachite or azurite
emperor knew that no                                                                  base. A master creation so
ordinary machine would                                                                that the select few who owns
captivate his guests. He                                                              this machine, can relive the
needed something different.                                                           Emperor's winning night.
Something extraordinary.                                                                 This coffee maker is
   The finest gold and                                                                for those who value the
silversmiths of Paris were                                                            extraordinary. For those who
commissioned to create                                                                know that every experience
the ultimate statement                                                                tells a story and wishes to
piece. The coffee maker                                                               invite loved ones, family,
that would captivate and                                                              friends, and associates to
enthrall everyone present.                                                            only the most exceptional
   As the hour-long banquet                                                           and captivating memories.
came to an end, there was no                                                             It is a symbol of
lack of good cheer, but there                                                         discernment and good taste.
was one more statement to                                                             It is the winning cup!
be made that night. Unexpectedly,                                                 This is our invitation to you
several exquisite contraptions,                                                 to create moments of imperial
beautifully laced with gold, and                                                pleasure on special occasions and
glistering with crystal glass was                                               on every occasion. Email us: info@
placed on the table. The whole                                                  royalcoffeemaker.com to learn
room errupted into a chorus of                                                  more about our custom coffee
“Ohs” and “Ahs” At first glance it                                              makers and also receive your
appeared complicated making                                                     complimentary catalog.
the operator appear even more
masterful, in fact, the machine                                                 Resellers/agents in Europe, the
was very easy to use.                                                           Middle East, and Asia are invited
   These kings, queens, noblemen,                                               to get in touch:
and women who thought they had                                                  maria@royalcoffeemaker.com
seen and experienced it all, were        COFFEE MAKER. ANNO. 1835               royalcoffeemaker.com                       royalcoffeemaker.com Email: info@royalcoffeemaker.com Telephone: 00 1 517 347 7983 @royalcoffeemaker
ART IN THE ROW

LONDON ART WEEK
             E ROW
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           by the Master of Perspective in
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Nuremberg, and dated 1565. This is
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           one of the first works in Northern

                                                                                  SAVIL
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Europe to use perspective and
This summer's event took place at some of the most prestigious galleries                                                                                                                                                   geometric polyhedral in its

                                                                                     TOUR
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           decoration. On public view for the
around St. James’s and Mayfair. No fewer than 50 exhibitors from all over                                                                                                                                                  first time since 1883, it testified to
the world curated exhibitions spanning more than 5,000 years of art                                                                                                                                                        the interaction between art and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           science.
                    isitors were                             Aaron, Didier        18th century colonial India.                                                                                                                Nearby, Benappi Fine Art

   V
                    able to discover                         Aaron - Conte           Works started from £8,000 to                                                                                                          exhibited a marble bust by Lorenzo
                    art not seen                             Pietro Rotari        around £120,000. Along the Row,                                                                                                          Bartolini from circa 1823 depicting
                                                             (Verona
                    in public for                            1707 – 1762          Ordovas exhibited a Colombian                                                                                                            the Ideal Portrait of Beatrice;
                    decades and                              St Petersburg)       contemporary artist influenced                                                                                                           Burzio displayed fine antiques and
                    sometimes                                La Dormeuse          by the Old Masters in Always                                                                                            © Marcus Peel    works of art; Daniel Katz Gallery’s
centuries, and ‘new’ galleries, you                          Pendant to_ La       Drawing, Jose Antonio Suarez                                                                                                             show titled Expressive Souls and
may have never noticed before,                               Liseuse Both         Londoño - Works on Paper                                                                                                                 Ariadne Gallery upstairs shone
with several of them upstairs from
                                                             pastel, c.1752–6
                                                                                  1997-2018. This South American
                                                                                                                          "Visitors were able to discover art not                                                          a light on form and function in
                                                             (Dresden period) -
well-known tailors and designer                              LAW19S.jpg           artist has devoted four decades         seen in public for decades and                                                                   antiquity. While Ben Elwes Fine
shops.                                                                            to drawing. A disciplined, daily        sometimes centuries, and ‘new’ galleries                                                         Art’s centrepiece was a beautiful
   Art enthusiasts could start                               Taylor, Karen        practice has produced a vast                                                                                                             sculpted white marble portrait
their tour of discovery in Savile                            Taylor Fine Art
                                                                                  repertoire of small scale works on
                                                                                                                          they may have never noticed before"                                                              relief roundel of Jenny Lind from
                                                             - James Ward,
Row, where Charles Beddington                                RA (British, 1769–   eclectic themes: reproductions                                                                                                           c1866 (the Swedish Nightingale,
Fine Art staged an exhibition                                1859) Portrait       of Old Master paintings, objects,       was sensationally published in       (R) Lullo                                                   featured in The Greatest
of Canaletto, Bellotto and their                             of Tamorfait         landscapes, portraits; and              1774 as Letters to His son on the    Pampoulides -                                               Showman) by American artist
                                                             Carborlof, a Don                                                                                  Federico Jehuda
Circle. The highlight painting is                                                 referencing wide-ranging literary       Art of Becoming a Man of the                                                                     Margaret Foley (c1827-1877).
                                                             Cossack, pencil -                                                                                 Pollock, known
Bernardo Bellotto’s The Grand                                LAW19S
                                                                                  sources.                                World and a Gentleman. Their         as Gino Parin                                                  Landscapes by 19th century
Canal, Venice, looking South-                                                        Just a short walk away, more         perceived immorality ensured         (1876-1944) Fanny                                           Swiss, German and Norwegian
East from the Palazzo Michiel                                Ariadne, Ariadne     galleries opened their doors and        continual reprints, making it one    Tedeschi in Purple                                          painters were the subject of From
dalle Colonne to the Fondaco dei                             Galleries -          welcomed the viewing public.            of the most enduring books of the    and black                                                   Fjord to Forest at John Mitchell
Tedeschi. This very early work,                              Weight in the        Raccanello Leprince showed              eighteenth century. The painting                                                                 Fine Paintings, depicting fjords
                                                             form of a Duck                                                                                    (B) Malingue,
from c1738, when the teenage                                 Mesopotamian         Summer Highlights at Shapero            is priced at £700,000.               Olivier Malingue                                            and lakes, forests and woodland,
Bellotto (1722-1780) worked in the                                                Rare Books in St George Street             Fashion was the focus in Silk     - Jean Dubuffet,                                            glaciers and valleys. The exhibition
studio of his uncle Canaletto, ticks                         Antonacci            – they specialise in Renaissance        and Finery: Dress in Art 1700-1900   Le Margrave, 1970                                           will include plein air oil studies
every box - fresh to the market,                             Lapiccirella Fine    pottery attractive to a modern          at Didier Aaron and included an      - LAW19S                                                    and formal studio paintings; many
                                                             Art -Vincenzo
in outstanding original condition                                                 public.                                 enchanting drawing by Charles-                                                                   were intended to be sold to benefit
                                                             GEMITO (Naples
and with an unbroken provenance                              1852 – 1929),           Sotheby’s across the road,           Francois-Pierre de la                                                                            the Asbjorn Lunde Foundation in
back to the 18th century.                                    Portrait of          held its Old Master sales during        Traverse (1726-1787)                                      exhibition to Medieval art in          New York.
   Just upstairs is Andrew Clayton-                          Mariano Fortuny,     London Art Week, so lots were           of a Woman Holding                                        England from the 6th to 16th              London Art Week didn’t just
Payne’s gallery and his exhibition,                          c. 1880 Bronze -     on view and several auctions            a Flute, a design for a                                   centuries when the country was         focus on Mayfair but also covered
                                                             LAW19S Second
From London to Lucknow: A Re-                                millennium
                                                                                  took place both during the day          theatre costume for the                                   a hotbed for artists, while Lullo      St James’s. Highlights there were
Discovered Collection of Drawings                            BC Calcite           and in the evening, making the          performance given in                                      Pampoulides in Cork Street,            a rare oil painting by Samuel
by Johan Zoffany (1733-1810), was                            Dimensions_ 26       event highly interactive for art        honour of the marriage                                    focussed on the Insatiable Desire      Palmer (1805-81) at Guy Peppiatt
well enjoyed. Originally from                                cm L - LAW19S        enthusiasts and buyers alike.           in Madrid, 1764, of the                                   of collecting paintings, sculptures    Fine Art with an asking price of
Germany, Zoffany’s first major                                                        Clifford Street is also a gallery   Infanta Maria-Louisa                                      and drawings.                          £1.95 million and another major
patron in London was actor David                                                               hub with Lowell Libson     de Bourbon to the                                            Down Bond Street, James             rediscovery of a watercolour by
Garrick, then Queen Charlotte.                                                                    & Jonny Yarker who      Archduke Leopold of                                       Mackinnon specialised in 18th to       John Frederick ‘Spanish’ Lewis at
In 1769, he was nominated by                                                                        displayed some        Habsburg-Lorraine.                                        20th century British and European      Karen Taylor Fine Art. S Franses
King George III for membership                                                                       of their latest      From a number of                                          paintings and drawings, while          staged the exhibition The Lost
in the Royal Academy. Zoffany                                                                         acquisitions,       recently discovered                                       Bonhams held their Old Master          Tapestries of Charles I, including
became one of the most original                                                                        including a        drawings, this is the                                     auctions. Olivier Malingue’s           a large-scale tapestry, the last
and celebrated artists of the                                                                         Pompeo Girolamo     first direct evidence                                     exhibition ‘Abstract or Not’           on the market from a series of
Enlightenment, and worked in                                                                        Batoni portrait       of the artist’s                                           includes some of the best known        nine depicting Vulcan and Venus,
both England and India at the                                                                    of Philip Stanhope,      involvement in the                                        modern masters and Brun Fine Art       commissioned c1620 by Charles I,
end of the 18th century. Hitherto,                                                         from c1750. This portrait      performance, and                                          presented a collection of sculptures   when Prince of Wales.
there were only around 30 known                                                         depicts the illegitimate son      allows the modern                                         covering several centuries, and
drawings by the artist, the                                                             of Philip Stanhope, 4th Earl      viewer to visualise                                       Antonacci Lapiccirella Fine            For more: www.londonartweek.co.uk
majority being in museums. This                                                         of Chesterfield. Philip junior,   the theatrical                                            Art showed mainly Italian
exhibition doubled that number,                                                        in Rome between December           performances of                                           art from private collections.
and gave a fascinating insight in                                                        1749 and March 1750, who         some of the most                                          Trinity Fine Art and Georg Laue
to the artist’s working methods                                                           received a stream of letters    fashionable actors                                        Kunstkamer Ltd showing one
and his close relationship with his                                                         from his father instructing   of the mid-C18th.                                         of the highlights of London Art
patron in Lucknow, Claude Martin                                                             him on every aspect of his      Sam Fogg                                               Week - The Renaissance Casket
(1735-1800), an interesting figure in                                                       life. The correspondence      devoted an                                                from Newbattle Abbey, made

34 SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE                                                                                                                                                                                                  SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE        35
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