THE JOURNAL FOR THE MOHAIR INDUSTRY - 2020 VOLUME 61
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THE JOURNAL FOR THE MOHAIR INDUSTRY
VOLUME 61 2020
WOL & BOKHAAR - internasionale rolspeler www.ovk.co.za
DIE NUWE KOMMISSIESTRUKTUUR
RABAT TERUGBETALING AAN Die rabat sal elke jaar gedurende Maart wat volg
op die einde van OVK se finansiële jaareinde aan
PRODUSENTE produsente uitbetaal word. Die finale rabat word
dus op die kumulatiewe lewerings wat gedurende
OVK se finansiële jaar verkoop is, bereken en
nie as ‘n persentasie per skeersel nie. Sedert
die inwerkingstelling (01/07/2019) van rabat -
terugbetalings, is daar alreeds ‘n bedrag van
R2.2 miljoen (netto) aan produsente uitbetaal.
LOJALITEITSKORTING
Bona-fide produsente wat hulle vesel
deur OVK verkoop verdien verder ook
23.9 sent per kilogram lojaliteitskorting.
BEMARKING &
TEGNIESE VELDDIENSTE
U besigheid is vir ons belangrik, daarom is
ons bekwame span bemarkers en tegniese
veldbeamptes gereed om u as produsent by te
staan met ons volledige dienstepakket.
OVK Vesel is ook gereed om u as produsent by te
staan met akkreditasie vir RWS en RMS.
VIR MEER INLIGTING EN NAVRAE, KONTAK:
Frans Hugo • 082 854 9468 Tink Strydom • 082 555 1199 OVK Port Elizabeth
Bestuurder: Bestuurder: 041 406 7500
Veselverkryging (Wes) Veselverkryging (Oos)
HOOFKANTOOR: Ladybrand 051 923 4500 • KLANTEDIENS: 051 923 4598 / klantediens@ovk.co.zaFRONT COVER
Photographer – Riaan Marais
Styling – Gugu Peteni
Model – Heleen Lombard
Location – Blaauwkrantz Farm, Uitenhage
Special thanks to Arthur Rudman and family
THE MOHAIR JOURNAL
127 Fordyce Road, Walmer, Port Elizabeth, 6070
Telephone: 041 581 1681
E-mail: info@mohair.co.za
Website: www.mohair.co.za
Official journal of the SA Mohair Growers Association,
Angora Ram Breeders Society and Mohair South Africa.
Editor: Riaan Marais
Contributors:
Marco Coetzee Siobhan Momberg
Cobus de Klerk Gretha Snyman
Mackie Hobson Pierre van der Vyver
George Hope Sanmarie Vermaak
Lindsay Humphreys Heinrich Victor
Design and Layout: WalkerDigital.co.za
Printing: Cadar Printers
The Mohair Journal does not accept responsibility for any claims
made in advertisements. The opinions of contributors are also not
necessarily those of the Mohair Journal.
Contents
Message from the Chairman of the Mode University Mohair Designs ....................................................................... 28
South African Mohair Growers Association, Cobus De Klerk ............... 4 Woven from the Source ........................................................................................... 30
Message from the Editor, Riaan Marais .............................................................. 5 A Pioneering Spirit ....................................................................................................... 34
From the SAMGA Office .............................................................................................. 7 Relationships that Empower ................................................................................. 37
2019 Mohair Report, Marco Coetzee .................................................................. 8 Semen Freezing and Insemination Trial Results in
The Sustainable Journey of Mohair .................................................................. 12 South African Angora Goats .................................................................................. 40
Responsible Mohair Standard ............................................................................... 14 Veterinary Overview 2019 ....................................................................................... 43
Best Practice Video Series ......................................................................................... 17 New Kid on the Block – The House of Fibre ................................................. 44
Rain or Shine ................................................................................................................... 18 Angora Ram Breeders’ Society .............................................................................. 48
Zegna auction and trophy goes to Van Hasselt ......................................... 20 Experienced team to lead OVK forward .......................................................... 50
Van Hasselt rakes in another Miyuki Keori title .......................................... 21 In Memory of ................................................................................................................... 53
Webber crowned Daidoh Trophy champion ............................................... 23 Directory:
Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference ................................................. 24 Mohair Management and Contact Details ................................................... 55
Pitti Immagine Filati .................................................................................................... 25 SA Mohair Growers’ Association ........................................................................... 57
Cape Town Yarn Festival ........................................................................................... 26 Angora Ram Breeders Society ............................................................................... 59
Japan Hobby Show ...................................................................................................... 27 Spinners .............................................................................................................................. 59
China Mohair Fashion Design Competition ................................................ 28 Local Manufacturers .................................................................................................... 61
Mohair Journal 2020 3Message from
the Chairman of
the South African
Mohair Growers
Association,
Cobus
de Klerk
T
he 2019/20 year, much like the previous year, was requirement for many end-users, and producers will have to adhere
very challenging at a producer level. From April to these new standards, just like any other export commodity.
2019 to January 2020 no rain worth mentioning We hope the RMS will have a positive impact on prices at
fell over the production area. The eastern region mohair sales.
saw some decent rain in January, February, and March last year, In 2019 a new mohair broker opened its doors. The HOUSE OF
but only part of the western region saw any rain at all. And FIBRE quickly grew, and now handles the majority of South African
following March there was little to no rain until August this year. mohair. We wish them all the best for the future.
Producers had no choice but to buy feed for their animals. Some In 2020 the SAMGA office moved from Jansenville to the Mohair
never stopped feeding but were at least fortunate that they could International Headquarters in Port Elizabeth and is now under the
feed less for a short period of time. same roof as the Mohair South Africa team. Having everyone in
A major concern is that producers are chipping away at one location will be to the advantage of the industry.
their financial resources, and we are seeing less and less feed With the collapse of the world economy and the lockdown
donations. The export ban on mohair due to Foot-and-Mouth restrictions, we could do very little, and as a result, the annual
disease last year, as well as the Coronavirus pandemic, only added SAMGA Congress could not take place in June 2020.
to the negative impact on the 2020 summer season. Between last year and this year, we saw younger producers step
The average mohair price at the close of the season stood at into pivotal roles in the mohair industry’s management structures –
R246,07, close to R40 per kilogram lower than last year’s summer two younger producers were voted onto the SAMGA management,
average. We were fortunate to see kid mohair prices do well, it was while another two were voted onto the Mohair Trust. I trust that
not enough to mitigate the price drop for stronger mohair variants. the younger generation will take the industry to new heights.
However, producers who looked after their animals, and prepared Mohair regards, J.L. De Klerk
their clips with care, were rewarded with good prices, well above
sale averages.
The development of the Responsible Mohair Standard
(RMS) escalated in 2019 and 2020, and we were glad to see its
implementation earlier this year. We hope to see all producers start
their process to become RMS-certified, as there is a great demand
for RMS-mohair among manufacturers. Sustainability has become a
4 Mohair Journal 2020Message from
the Editor,
Riaan
Marais
M
y 4-year-old son recently took a headfirst dive from panic-filled, stressful, and in some cases, tragic time. We are still
a jungle gym at school, resulting in a trip to the unsure what the future holds, and I don’t think a single person can
emergency room and three stitches above his right say they are heading into 2021 without a few scars.
eye. There was a considerable amount of panic But, all things considered, we need to keep our heads high and
from everyone except Charlie himself. Other than a few tears while look toward the future.
the doctor was injecting a local anaesthetic, he stayed calm. He We are grateful to hear that some parts of the mohair production
asked a million questions while the doctor was stitching him up, region received some much-needed rain, and our thoughts are with
and he loved all the attention his stitches and scar attracted. those areas that are still in the grips of the drought.
And while he may have that scar for the rest of his life, in time it The launch of the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) came at a
will fade and become nothing more than a memory. time when the world’s attention was focused on a global pandemic.
Thinking about the incident some weeks later, I found myself However, we are very excited to see it being implemented, and
wondering how that scenario could have played out had the interest in the new standard continues to grow. The industry, along
circumstances been only slightly different. Had he hit something with Textile Exchange and our global stakeholders, pulled together
on the way down, fallen differently, or fallen from something in the most amazing way to push mohair into the future. And the
higher, Charlie could have lost an eye, injured himself permanently, future is looking bright.
or worse. And, as always – I hope you enjoy the Mohair Journal as much as I
I could not help but draw the comparison between Charlie’s enjoyed putting it together.
fall and the last few months, not only in the Mohair industry but
globally. These thoughts came to me as I was able to visit one
of our mohair farms again after the Covid-19 Lockdown travel
restrictions were finally lifted. I was taking pictures of baby goats at
Dirko Farm near Somerset East. Kidding season is the most special
time to be on an Angora goat farm - it symbolises new beginnings
in the most beautiful and pure way.
Between the ongoing drought, pressures for improved
sustainability from the international market, and the Covid-19
pandemic that all but shut down the entire world, it has been a
Mohair Journal 2020 5MOHAIR IS ONE OF THE RARE NOBLE FIBRES OF THE WORLD, IT’S SUSTAINABLY
PRODUCED IN SOUTH AFRICA WHERE QUALITY AND ETHICS REMAINS THE
HIGHEST PRIORITY THROUGHOUT THE PROCESS.
79 Burman Road, Deal Party, Port Elizabeth, South Africa | P.O. Box 3446, North End, Port Elizabeth, 6056, South Africa
TEL +27(0)41 486 2430 | FAX +27(0)41 486 2665
6 Mohair Journal 2020 www.samil.co.za | yarns@samil.co.zaFrom the
SAMGA
office
Sanmarie Vermaak
W
hat a year! In January 2020 I started working that are available on our website, www.angoras.co.za. These videos
at the Mohair HQ in Port Elizabeth. This was and manuals will be distributed to every producer as soon as the
one of the biggest decisions I had to take as manuals are finished.
a person, but for me, working in the Mohair Although we had a rough start this year due to Covid-19, our
Industry, this has been the best move I could have made. The focus for the rest of the year and next year will be on training the
SAMGA office works very closely with MSA, and it’s amazing local shearers and farm workers so that they are up to our mohair
how much can be done when we are under one roof. What standards. A very successful farmworkers training day was held
a privilege to have a SAMGA office in our headquarters. in March 2020 in Jansenville. 115 Farmworkers attended the
At the start of 2020, large parts of our production area were still training. The workshop included animal handling, animal health,
in the grip of this drought that has plagued the country. Recently and mohair classing. A competition was also held amongst the
large parts of our country received much-needed rain, although participants recognising the handler whose goat was in the best
some of our production areas are still critical. Luckily during these condition. More of these training days will be held during the last
uncertain times due to Covid-19, our producers could keep head few months of this year. Certificates of attendance were handed
above water with good mohair prices. SAMGA would like to thank out after the training.
our producers for their loyalty in these trying times. I also had the amazing opportunity to start a wonderful journey
Exciting things happened in the Mohair Industry during the first and relationship with our Empowerment Trust producers. They are
few months of 2020. Our Responsible Mohair Standards (RMS) so excited to be part of this wonderful industry. Congratulations
have been approved and implemented. From SAMGA we would to the Empowerment Partners that already had their RMS audits
like to thank Lindsay Humphreys and Dr Mackie Hobson for their done. Thank you Beauty Mokgwamme for including SAMGA in the
hard work getting our own internationally approved standards Empowerment Trust’s operations. I learn so much about our goats
and for making sure that it is in line with what producers will be and farming from you!
able to achieve. Thank you to the producers that already had Our industry is healthy and systems are in place so that we can
their audits done. If there are any questions regarding the audits, look forward to exciting times ahead. We would like to wish all our
please feel free to contact your mohair broker. I believe that we producers a prosperous 2020/21 with abundant rain, top quality
can all work together to make our Industry the best Industry for goats, and mohair.
local and overseas markets. All producers need to know that Please feel free to contact me with any queries on sanmarie@
the whole industry gets audited. From the producer all the way angoras.co.za; 079 236 7823 or at the Mohair HQ (041) 581 1681
through the value chain to the retailer. It is also important to
For more information and news from SAMGA visit our
know that being audited is not about a premium but access to the
website www.angoras.co.za, or visit our Facebook page:
market. Thank you to the brokers that started doing the audits at
Mohair Growers South Africa.
our producers. To help our producers we made Best Practice videos
Mohair Journal 2020 72019
Mohair
Report
by
Marco Coetzee
MSA Financial Manager
T
he 2019 Mohair summer season started at the fairly constant from 2018, with top makers taking up 75% of the
same level as the last sale of the 2018 winter market and the greasy buyers 25% of the market share.
season. Throughout the summer season the demand Italy remains the leader in mohair imports from South Africa
for finer mohair was high, which was driven by importing 38% of the total South African mohair exported. China’s
the kid-mohair sector which closed 15% higher than the start figures reduced dramatically due to the reasons mentioned above
of the season. The summer season had its challenges with but remain the 2nd biggest importer of South African Mohair
the foot in mouth decease prohibiting the export of mohair (18%). Taiwan’s figures increased by 24% and they are now the
to China for a period of time, which specifically affected the 3rd biggest importer of South African Mohair (14%). Overall, the
strong adult mohair sector, closing down 7% from the start of export of mohair has reduced from 2018 to 2019 as can be seen
the season. Overall, the average market indicator for the 2019 in figure 4.
summer season was R285.74 per kg and the market closed 2.4% The South African mohair clip is estimated at around 2.08-million
higher than at the start of the summer season. The highest kilograms for the 2019 year which is 7.14% down from 2018. This
summer price of R801.10 per kg was paid for a bale of 23-micron is mainly due to the extreme drought conditions experienced
super style kid mohair through the official auction system. over most of the production area. The majority of the mohair
When the market opened for the 2019 Mohair winter season, production areas have received much-needed rain early in 2020,
the world economy was in a dip, which impacted the mohair however, it does take time to recover from such a lengthy drought.
market directly as can be seen in figure 1. The continuous trade The main focus of the South African mohair industry
war between the USA and China put a lot of pressure on the adult is sustainability and producing fibres within an ethical
mohair sector as the Chinese buyers’ market was low in confidence environment. The substantial journey of developing an
which reduced their appetite to purchase mohair. The fine adult internationally recognised mohair standard, the Responsible Mohair
sector closed down 16% and the strong adult sector closed down Standard (RMS), started in 2018. Mohair South Africa worked hand
11% from the first sale of the winter season. The demand and in hand with Textile Exchange, a global non-profit organisation,
price for the finer mohair remained stable with the kid sector throughout 2019, and finally launching the standard in March
closing 1% higher than the start of the winter season. The average 2020. The goals of the Responsible Mohair Standard are to provide
market indicator for the winter season came in at R224.74 per kg, the industry with tools to recognise the best practices of farmers
which is 9% lower when compared to the first sale of the winter and to ensure that mohair comes from farms with a progressive
season. The highest winter price of R551.10 per kg was paid for approach to land management, animal welfare, and social
a bale of 25-micron good style kid mohair through the official responsibility. Beyond the farm, it also aims to provide a system
auction system. of traceability throughout the entire value chain – from farm to
A comparison of the clip composition between 2018 and finished product. This is what the International and National brands
2019 can be seen in figure 2 which indicates some minor require to purchase mohair.
changes. Strong adult mohair decreased by 5%, fine adult mohair Mohair South Africa will continue to treat sustainability as a
increased by 3% and kid mohair also increased by 1%. journey, which we will continue to grow and improve on.
The buyers’ share of the market, indicated in figure 3 remained
8 Mohair Journal 2020Figure 1 Mohair Market
700.00
600.00
Mohair Market 500.00
400.00
300.00
200.00
100.00
2017 S 2017 W 2018 S 2018 W 2019 S 2019 W
KIDS YOUNG GOATS F ADULTS S ADULTS AVERAGE
24% 20%
Figure 2
32%
23%
Clip Composition
2019
KIDS
Y GOATS
F ADULTS
19% S ADULTS
29%
23% Clip Composition
29%
2018
2%
Figure 3 8% 15%
Mosenthals
37% New England
Buyers by 38% Samil
weight Stucken
Suedwolle
2019
Exports 2018/2019
1,200,000 Figure 4
1,000,000
800,000
600,000
Mohair Exports
400,000
2018/2019
200,000
China Bulgeria Italy Japan Egypt Taiwan U.K.
2019 2018
Mohair Journal 2020 9A sustainable fibre. A responsible future.
The Sustainable
The road to International Responsible Mohair Standards
Journey of Mohair
Report compiled by
Lindsay Humphreys
and Riaan Marais, in
collaboration with
Textile Exchange
T
he Mohair industry has seen a decade of in terms of integrity and standards, and responsible supply
development in two short years – or two very long networks. Working with them immediately took the mohair
years, depending on how you choose to see it. industry’s progress to a whole new level.
The evolution of consumers has put pressure on the Their approach was progressive, inclusive and thorough. The
manufacturing sector as a whole, especially on the luxury fashion 24-month process saw engagement with hundreds of stakeholders,
industry. They are becoming increasingly sensitive to the affect which included farmers, mohair traders, processors, spinners,
their purchases may have. They want to know the people behind luxury brands from across the world, as well as leading experts
the product, and they want assurance that they are not playing any in sustainability standards and incredibly valuable input from the
part in harming the environment and, in the case of natural fibres, South African mohair industry’s own veterinarian
the animals involved. Dr Mackie Hobson.
This ever-shifting focus toward the wellbeing of life and land has And after two very short (or long) years, the Responsible Mohair
made sustainability and ethical practices the number one non- Standard (RMS) was officially launched in March 2020.
negotiable in the modern world, and the mohair industry could not
allow itself to fall behind. The RMS
Tackling this issue comes with the understanding that Hanna Denes, senior manager of standards at Textile Exchange,
sustainability is not a quick-fix, but rather a journey in ultimately said the core focus of the RMS is healthy and well cared for
changing the underlying culture of the industry over time. 2009 Angora goats.
saw the launch of the Sustainable Mohair Production Guidelines, a “The Responsible Mohair Standard verifies and identifies mohair
solid foundation that gave mohair a competitive edge heading into produced in farming systems that respect animal welfare and the
the future. environment. Strong assurance systems are applied and regular
A decade later, and with the groundwork in place, Mohair South audits are performed on farms, before the material is tracked to the
Africa (MSA) identified the need to adapt further if it was going to final product. The RMS is designed to ensure that animal welfare
drive the required changes within the industry. outcomes are delivered, and that the goats are treated humanely.”
The first step in this new part of the journey was to find the right MSA general manager Lindsay Humphreys said that while the
partners that were not only credible and respected internationally, journey was not always easy, having the right people to support
but also had experience in developing and executing standards this cause made it easier, and the end result was well worth
within natural fibre. Global fashion brands had to be included, as the effort.
they represent a critical stakeholder within the value chain. “We worked closely with the Textile Exchange team and, over
Enter Textile Exchange, a global non-profit that works closely this period, our organisation built enormous respect for Textile
with brands to drive industry transformation in preferred fibres, Exchange and what they stand for.
12 Mohair Journal 2020“We found that while the journey was a professional one, we Through the South African Mohair Growers’ Association (SAMGA)
developed close relationships with their team and deep respect for Dr Hobson was involved in the production of a series of Best
their process and approach.” Practice videos. These videos explain crucial parts of the day to day
Every link in the value chain was part of the RMS development, activities on an Angora goat farm and are intended as educational
they supported the process, and all those links now have to play material for farmers and farmworkers, to ensure that they adhere
their part to ensure the success of the new standard. to the requirements of the RMS. Subjects like the proper handling
Farmers need to adapt their practices in line with the animal of goats, how to administer certain treatments, and the shearing
welfare, environmental management, and social welfare of goats are just some of the important aspects touched on in
requirements set out in the RMS, while every other entity between these videos.
the farm and end-product needs to adhere to their own strict These videos were uploaded onto YouTube and can be viewed
protocols to ensure full sustainability and traceability of the fibre. by farmers and any interested parties.
To put it plainly, launching the new standard did not flip a switch With the help of virtual reality (VR) technology, the MSA team
and instantaneously activate a booming supply of RMS fibre. This was also able to take South African farms abroad. During the 2019
is merely the start of yet another journey – one that will need the Textile Exchange Sustainability Conference, held in Vancouver,
continued support from all stakeholders. MSA took VR headsets along, allowing conference-goers to
“Every industry, company, and individual has a responsibility ‘experience’ goats being dipped and shorn as if they were on the
to work towards a more responsible and sustainable future, farm themselves.
taking the environment, its animals, and its people into This proved to be very popular and more applications for VR
considerations. Sustainability is not a decision, it’s a journey, taken are being explored for the future. And on the local front, these
one step at a time,” said Humphreys. tools have been a great addition to the training and development
programs the industry already had in place.
Innovations along the way
With the mohair industry shifting almost its entire focus toward The road ahead
sustainability, some unique opportunities presented themselves But Humphreys, much like all the other roleplayers, realised that
to showcase not only the fibre but the Karoo landscape, farming launching the RMS was not the end of the journey, merely the start
practices, and the people behind the scenes. of a new chapter that is still far from complete.
Dr Mackie Hobson, the industry’s veterinarian, played an “Once we have achieved our goals, new ones will emerge, and
invaluable role not only during the development of the new consequently shift our focus accordingly. Long-term commitment
standards but in assisting mohair producers in understanding what to a crucial cause is vital to its success. I am proud to be part of this
the new standards mean. incredible industry,” said Humphreys.
Mohair Journal 2020 13Responsible
Mohair
Standard
Frequently Asked Questions
Why did the industry choose to partner with Textile Exchange What is going to happen to the Certified
and together develop the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS)? Sustainable Mohair standard (CSM)?
While all existing Sustainable Standards were considered, the While the CSM served the industry well during the first decade of
development of a Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) through our sustainability journey, it will eventually be replaced by the RMS.
Textile Exchange was identified as the best solution to enhance and The CSM did not meet the need for an independent standard
continue the sector’s sustainability journey, ultimately creating a with the right checks and balances. To achieve the necessary
genuine competitive advantage for local producers. credibility, an independent global standard is crucial.
Textile Exchange is a progressive and inclusive global non-profit
What is the relationship between the Responsible Wool
that works closely with brands to drive industry transformation
Standard and the Responsible Mohair Standard?
in certain fibres, in terms of integrity and standards, as well as
Both standards were developed by Textile Exchange and are very
responsible supply networks. Textile Exchange developed one of
closely related in those aspects not specific to either goats or sheep
the foremost voluntary wool standards in the world, making them
– such as social welfare and environmental management.
an obvious partner with a solid foundation from which to develop
Auditing processes are also very similar, and in the case of farmers
the RMS.
who produce both mohair and wool (selling them both through
With credibility paramount to the mohair industry, Textile
the same broker), audits can be done simultaneously. Certain
Exchange was seen as the most capable of developing a standard
aspects of the audits are the same for the RMS and the RWS, while
underpinned by strong assurance systems that see regular audits of
other sections will be handled separately.
farms and tracking of material to the final product.
A single farm may be certified to either or both of these new
What role-players were involved in making the decision to standards. Separate scope certificates will be issued for RWS
partner with Textile Exchange in developing the RMS? and RMS.
Industry consultations included MSA Directors Meetings, Mohair
What input did the mohair industry have in
Trust Meetings, and SAMGA Congresses, with representation from a
the development of the guidelines?
number of industry organisations, including:
The RMS is an initiative entirely driven by the mohair industry
» South African Mohair Growers Association (SAMGA)
to define criteria that will ensure a competitive and sustainable
» South African Wool and Mohair Buyers Association (SAWAMBA)
industry in the future. As South Africa is the leading mohair
» South African Mohair Brokers Association
producer globally, it makes sense that we would be the ones
» South African Wool and Mohair Processors
leading the sustainability journey, and we are proud to be the
Association (SAWAMPA)
leaders of tomorrow in this regard.
» Mohair Empowerment Trust
With input from the entire industry, from various associations
» Farmworkers Association
representing stakeholders to highly-regarded veterinarians and
» Industry veterinarian Dr Mackie Hobson
companies and brands from throughout the entire value chain, the
It is important to note that whilst SAMGA & Dr Mackie Hobson were
mohair industry selected Textile Exchange as best suited to develop
consulted with regards to the development of the RMS on-farm
the RMS. Textile Exchange also invited interested stakeholders
standard, the consultation regarding the actual audit process was
to provide input at various stages of their process, with extensive
done independently to ensure the integrity of the process.
reviews and collaborations taking place.
14 Mohair Journal 2020Why is social responsibility part of the RMS? farm which has been part of a group for less than 6 months,
The Social Responsibility section of the RMS is in line with South may have a timeline of up to 1 year to address.
African labour laws, meaning that producers should be compliant » Major non-conformities found during annual
with this section already. audits will have to be addressed within 30 days,
The RMS does not supersede individual countries’ social or labour or the producer risks losing certification.
laws. However, global brands demand assurance that the social » Critical non-conformities will result in immediate
aspects of sustainability are supported within the RMS, as this forms suspension of certification, and producers will need
part of their minimum requirements for procurement. to address the issue as soon as possible.
What benefits can I expect from being RMS-certified? Do I need to belong to a broker to gain RMS-certification,
or can I apply directly?
The RMS is all about driving longevity and access to the market,
as some markets have stopped buying mohair that is not Growers can become independently certified by contacting third
RMS certified. party auditor Control Union directly.
Are farmers the only ones going through RMS audits? Can I use more than one broker for different fibres?
The producer is the first link in the value chain to undergo an RMS You can be certified for the different Responsible Animal Fibre (RAF)
audit. Every member of the value chain thereafter also needs to standards with different brokers – for example, one broker for RMS-
comply with RMS, undergoing registrations and audits. Processing certified mohair and another broker for RWS-certified wool.
and spinning facilities also go through extensive auditing processes If a farm holds multiple RAF scope certificates, each certification
to ensure they can deliver an RMS product to the market. body must be made aware of this situation, and non-conformities
must be shared with each applicable certification body
How long does certification take and who and organisation.
gives the certification?
If I want to change my broker, what does this
Once an auditor has visited a producer’s farm and completed
mean for me practically?
his assessment, the producer will receive a report outlining
Choosing which broker to sell through is entirely up to
improvements (as prescribed in the RMS document) before
you. If you decide to change brokers, make sure your
RMS certification can take place. The producer must notify the
new broker is RMS-certified, and ensure that you have
auditor once he has made the necessary improvements, providing
a clear understanding of their specific procedures.
photographic evidence. The auditor will submit the producer’s
name for accreditation. Following an administrative process Is the RMS mandatory?
between the broker and Textile Exchange, the producer will be
No producer is forced to comply with the RMS.
notified once he has been granted RMS-status.
The decision to develop and implement the RMS was the result
This means, other than the administrative process, the time from
of a clear understanding that the mohair industry needs to deliver
the audit to certification will depend on the producer.
responsibly-produced mohair measured against a well-respected
How does a producer pass/fail a farm audit? and recognised independent global standard to meet market
And how do I address any shortcomings? expectations, and that demand would decrease substantially if this
Requirements for certification are assigned to different did not happen.
levels: critical, major, and minor. To become RMS-compliant is a decision that every producer
» Minor non-conformities found during an audit, or for a must make for themselves.
Mohair Journal 2020 1516 Mohair Journal 2020
Responsible Mohair Standard
Best Practice Video Series
A
series of videos depicting some of the best
practices outlined in the Responsible Mohair
Standard (RMS), has been one of the most
valuable tools the South African mohair
industry has developed along its sustainability journey.
The series of ten videos, released over the course of three months
after the official launch of the RMS earlier this year, addresses issues
around the handling and treatment of Angora goats during certain
necessary practices, like shearing, dipping, and caring for their horns
and hooves.
In the first video released industry veterinarian, Dr Mackie Hobson
gives a brief description of the RMS, its development, and why a
new international standard is important for the mohair industry.
Hobson, who features in all the videos, was instrumental in the
development of the standard and was, therefore, best suited to
assist in the making of the Best Practice Video Series.
Sanmarie Vermaak, manager of the South African Mohair Growers’
Association (SAMGA), said these videos are important for the
training and development of everyone working with goats on a
daily basis.
“These best practice videos are about more than just
implementing the RMS; it is about ensuring that we give these
animals that we love dearly the best possible treatment. Their
wellbeing is our first priority.
“We do our best to provide practical training for farmers and
workers as often as we can, but they need something they can
access afterward as well. Something they can reference when they
are on the farm, and these videos fill that gap,” said Vermaak
Besides farmers and their workers, contracted shearing teams can
also benefit from these videos as there is one specifically discussing
the shearing process. And seeing as the videos are loaded onto a
public platform (YouTube) anyone looking to educate themselves
on practices aimed at the wellbeing of Angora goats is welcome to
access them.
“All of the videos were shot in English, but come with subtitles
in Afrikaans and Xhosa as these are the languages most spoken
among farmers and farmworkers in our production region,”
said Vermaak.
Videos specifically addressing handling and shearing of
Angora goats also come with Sotho subtitles as many of the
contracted shearing teams come from the Sotho-speaking regions
around Lesotho.
And while these ten videos were identified as crucial areas that
needed to be addressed, Vermaak added that more videos could be
added in the future if more issues are identified.
“Much like the RMS will be reviewed regularly, we will also review
the need for more learning material, and in this particular case,
possibly expand our Best Practice Video Series.”
Access the full list of Best Practice Videos on SAMGA’s website
angoras.co.za, and click the Best Practice tab.
Mohair Journal 2020 17Rain or
Shine
Checking the weather forecast
I
“However, what you should be focused on is the maths behind
has never been simpler. weather predictions, and the people on the ground interpreting the
n fact, with weather apps pre-loaded onto most smartphones figures for you.”
these days, few things are easier. Chances are if you were The variables that impact weather conditions – like air pressure,
to unlock your phone right now, the current temperature moisture in the air, wind speed and direction, temperatures, etc. –
would be right there on your screen. And with a simple are measured and the values are run through a mathematical
click or swipe you will have a weekly, daily, or even hourly forecast model to provide predictions of what the weather could do in
of the temperature, wind, and rain in the palm of your hand. the future.
In a recent survey conducted by the South African Weather These predictions are then compared to the weather that was
Service, more than 60 percent of the control group got their measured on the day, to test the model’s accuracy.
weather information from mobile apps. Their second choice “At the SAWS we use no less than 41 models for our
was forecasting websites, while TV and radio came in at a joint forecasting. Our teams compare the different models to the
third place. measured conditions and discard the least accurate models. The
Garth Sampson, client liaison officer for the South African forecasts we send out to the public are based on the models that
Weather Service (SAWS), said the survey further indicated that perform the best in recent history, and which we believe will give
people trusted the forecasts from weather apps to be close to 80 the most accurate prediction.”
percent accurate. Here is a list of some of the most popular weather forecasting
“While most people use weather forecasts for personal use and platforms available:
to check weather predictions for special occasions, the professions
YR
that most regularly make use of forecasts are people in the
construction industry and the agricultural sector,” said Sampson. WEBSITE: yr.no
People making use of forecasts are most interested in the rainfall MOBILE APP: Free download on
figures (% chance of rain, amount of rain, and times the rain is Google Play (Android) and App Store
expected), followed by the expected temperatures and wind speed. (iOS). Rated 4.4 / 5 with more than
But with so many apps and websites to choose from, where 5-million downloads.
do you go for your information? Some apps are believed to be A joint operation between the
more accurate, while others package their forecasts in a more Norwegian Meteorological Institute
‘userfriendly’ way. and the Norwegian Broadcasting
According to Sampson, some users perceive international Corporation started providing their government with weather
forecasters to be more technologically advanced and accurate, reports as early as 1923. In 2007 they launched the platform YR.no,
while others prefer attractive websites with colourful maps to and less than a year later it was the country’s preferred source of
represent weather conditions. weather updates, with 87 percent of the Norwegian public claiming
it as their go-to weather website.
18 Mohair Journal 2020Picking the best weather apps to suit your needs
Today YR lists more than 12 million places across the world. Short after contributing to the disaster prevention efforts of several world
term forecasts are updated every 3 to 7 hours, while longer-term governments in recent years, it is believed that Windy has saved
forecasts are updated twice a day. countless lives from storms and hurricanes in the last six years.
According to a Business Insider article from February 2020 more The platform draws information from four different weather
than 3-million South Africans get their weather updates from the models, including the ECMWF used by YR. Its satellite-style display
Norwegian forecaster. However, it was one of the least accurate gives regularly updated forecasts for just about any geographical
platforms, especially when measuring temperatures. Over a four- location in the world, and it is fully customisable to suit the needs
day period in February YR predicted an average high of 19 degrees of the user. Colour coding for different weather events, and
(Celsius), while the measured average temperature was 28 degrees. animations to show wind, waves, and pressure systems make it easy
The website and app are simple to use, comprehensive, and to understand.
accurate enough for the casual user, but using only one weather And while many Karoo-farmer have no interest in where the best
model (the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather waves are for a weekend of surfing, being able to track the weather
Forecasting, or ECMWF) makes YR platforms unreliable, especially systems with extreme temperatures, heavy rains, or possible
over the long-term. snowfall, could be an invaluable tool.
ACCUWEATHER SOUTH AFRICAN WEATHER SERVICE
WEBSITE: accuweather.com WEBSITE: weathersa.co.za
MOBILE APP: Free download on MOBILE APP: N/A
Google Play (Android) and App The website is clunky and
Store (iOS). Rated 4.3 / 5 with more takes forever to load, and there is
than 50-million downloads. Pre- no easy-to-use mobile app. But
loaded on most Android when it comes to accurate
smartphones. Paid versions weather forecasting within South
(Professional/Platinum) available for Africa’s border, it is hard to beat
download from US$ 0.99. the SAWS.
American based forecaster AccuWeather was founded by Business Insider found SAWS temperature predictions to be the
Dr Joel Myers at the University of Pennsylvania in 1962 and has most accurate over a four-day period in Cape Town, during February
since become one of the world’s most trusted sources of weather 2020, missing the mark by less than 1 degree. And as Sampson
forecasts. Employing more than 100 meteorologists, and drawing said, where some forecasters use only a few mathematical models
information from more than 170 weather models, AccuWeather to predict global weather, the SAWS uses 41 models just within
provides forecasting for 3.5-million locations across the world. South Africa.
AccuWeather has partnered with 85 percent of major At the same time, on-the-ground experts across the country are
mobile phone manufacturers, and many apps and widgets best situated to provide the most up to date weather conditions,
draw their information from AccuWeather’s database, and dam levels, and issue weather alerts and warnings where
in 2017 ForecastWatch named it the most accurate global needed. According to Sampson only alerts and warnings issued
weather forecaster. by the SAWS can be used as evidence in court cases where the
The free app, as pre-loaded onto Android smartphones, is weather played a pivotal role.
simple to use and provides enough information for the casual user “A simple example can be controlled burning on a farm. Your
(temperature, the chance of rain, wind speed). For more detailed weather app shows no wind, and suddenly a gust picks up and
forecasting the website is more comprehensive and can predict the destroys your neighbour’s crops. He then comes to court and
weather as far ahead 90 days in advance. However, forecasts that shows a SAWS weather alert for strong winds, you could be held
far ahead are subject to change multiple times. accountable for the damage,” said Sampson.
Without a downloadable app, it may seem like the SAWS is
WINDY far behind its competitors, but its website is user-friendly on a
WEBSITE: www.windy.com computer as well as a smartphone. It may not be the quickest way
MOBILE APP: Free download on to get your weather forecast, but it might be worth taking the time
Google Play (Android) and App Store if you are planning any major operations that could be affected by
(iOS). Rated 4.7 / 5 with more than the weather.
10-million downloads.
Ivo Lukačovič, tech-millionaire
from Prague, launched Windy in 2014 Business Insider source:
to study weather patterns because https://bit.ly/3bYyxJy
he loves to kitesurf and ski. However,
Mohair Journal 2020 19Zegna auction
and trophy goes
to Van Hasselt
Gay van Hasselt, holding the Ermenegildo Zegna Trophy, celebrated Van Hasselt Farming’s win with the rest of the top ten finalists.
T
he Ermenegildo Zegna Trophy room for debate, claiming both the trophy Trophy has been a symbol of the Italian
competition has two divisions. and the highest auction price, walking away luxury brand’s relationship with South
In the first, each entrant’s as the undisputed Ermenegildo Zegna African mohair producers and has become
bale of meticulously curated champion. Their bale of exceptional quality one of the most sought-after titles in the
mohair is classed and given a rating out of summer kid mohair sold for R1 105.60 mohair industry.
100. This determines the trophy winner. per kilogram. The top five places, based on the Trophy
The second division is determined at a At the prize-giving event, held at Bridge scoring system, were:
special auction where each entrant’s bale is Street in Port Elizabeth, samples from each 1. Van Hasselt Farming
auctioned off anonymously. competing bale were on display. Many of 2. Lategan Junior Farming
Sometimes the title and the highest price Van Hasselt Farming’s competitors agreed 3. JH Bosch
belong to two different entrants, leading to that they were competing for second place, And a shared 4th place for Borden Farming
the question: Who is truly the champion? as first place was never in doubt. and Thornpark Angoras.
But in 2019 Van Hasselt Farming left no Since 1970 the Ermenegildo Zegna
20 Mohair Journal 2020Van Hasselt
rakes in another
Miyuki Keori title
Jordy van Hasselt received the Miyuki Keori trophy after Van Hasselt farming was crowned Grand Champion for 2018.
From left: Billie Colborne(Champion Summer Clip), Gert and Pieter Jordaan, (Champion Winter Clip), George Stegmann (Reserve Grand Champion),
V
Ben van der Westhuizen (Sustainability Reserve Champion) and Manie de Plessis (Sustainability Champion).
an Hasselt Farming claimed the Grand participants of the competition, they thanked the mohair farmers
Champion title for the seventh time when for the part they play in supplying the industry with good quality
the winners of the 2018 Miyuki Keori Mohair raw products.
Trophy Competition were announced. “Our goal is delighting consumers with luxury natural fibres such
Speaking at the awards evening at the Drostdy Hotel in Graaff- as mohair, and that is only possible through the work done by the
Reinet, Jordi van Hasselt thanked everyone involved for making the mohair producers. And for that we applaud you.”
competition possible, and in particular his mother for the active role The full list of winners are:
she plays in the success of their farming operation. Grand Champion – Van Hasselt Farming
The competition, established in 1980, celebrates producers for Reserve Grand Champion – GF Stegmann Farming
their ongoing commitment to the quality of the fibre they produce, Champion Summer Clip – FE Colborne & Sons
as well as their dedication to sustainable and ethical practices. Champion Winter Clip – Gert Jordaan Family Trust
The Miyuki Keori company has dedicated itself to excellence Sustainability Champion – Manie du Plessis
since it first opened its doors in 1905, and in a message to the Sustainability Reserve Champion – Ben van der Westhuizen
Mohair Journal 2020 21Webber crowned
Daidoh Trophy
champion
O
Paul Webber receiving the Daidoh Trophy from MSA director Rothner Bekker.
ne of the mohair industry’s most coveted commitment to your industry and all the hard work that goes into
trophies made its way to Grahamstown producing such an amazing fibre.”
after Paul Webber was crowned the Daidoh The Daidoh Company was founded in 1879 and is one of the
Trophy Competition champion for 2019. world’s leading producers of fine fabrics and clothing, including
The event, hosted at the Mohair South Africa International suits made from the finest kid mohair. In 1992 Daidoh, in
Headquarters, honoured producers with the highest average price collaboration with the Mohair Board, initiated the Daidoh Trophy
for their summer mohair clips, with Webber topping the list. Competition as an incentive for farmers to produce mohair of
“This is a very pleasant surprise. Last year I wasn’t even near the exceptional quality.
top, so I am extremely grateful for this award,” said a smiling Webber The top 5 places in the 2019 Daidoh Trophy Competition were:
after receiving the trophy. 1. PF Webber
A special message from the Daidoh Company congratulated 2. Lategan Jnr Farming
Webber and all the other winners on the night, and thanked 3. David Short Farming
all producers for their dedication to producing the finest 4. Borden Farming
quality mohair. 5. AR Hobson
“This competition is simply our way of praising all the dedicated And in combined 6th place: Sarel du Plessis, F Froelich & Son,
mohair producers in South Africa. We thank you for your FE Colborne & Sons, McEwan Farms, MW Truter.
Mohair Journal 2020 23Textile Exchange
Sustainability
Conference
A
nother big step along the South African mohair
industry’s sustainability journey was attending the 2019
Textile Sustainability Conference, held in Vancouver,
Canada. With over 800 textile sustainability experts
in attendance, representing leading brands, retailers, suppliers,
and more, the conference saw a collective aim to ensure that the
industry supports a healthy and sustainable future for our planet.
The mohair industry veterinarian Dr Mackie Hobson, BKB general
manager for wool and mohair Isak Staats, and Mohair South Africa
(MSA) general manager Lindsay Humphreys were invited to speak
at this prestigious event. They shared the valuable knowledge
they gained during their experience in the mohair industry,
specifically sharing insights into the practical implementation
strategies and challenges faced. Their stories, from a South African
mohair industry perspective, changed many perceptions about
local practices and the industry’s approach to sustainability and
ethical farming.
South African mohair and wool were well represented at the
conference, with delegates from BKB, MSA, Cape Wools, the South
Africa Mohair Cluster, and Stucken in attendance. To better utilise
available resources, MSA and Cape Wools shared a stand and
represented both South African animal fibres in the Mohair and
Wool round table.
When it came to mohair-specific issues MSA hosted its own
breakaway sessions with many well-known brands and retailers
– of whom many were interested in the development and
progress of the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS). There was
also very valuable interaction with the Mohair Council of America,
allowing MSA to share their insights and challenges with their
US counterpart.
Opportunities for raising brand awareness were abundant. The
very recognisable Mohair Mark appeared on every banner and
screen at the conference, and MSA launched its virtual farm
tours, using virtual reality headsets to put conference-goers on a
Karoo farm.
24 Mohair Journal 2020Pitti
Immagine
Filati
P
itti Filati is a dynamic platform for buyers, designers,
processors, spinners, and the likes to come together
and network and establishing relationships in the
global yarn industry. It is the “go-to” international
trade show for all designers and buyers to draw inspiration from
unique yarns and knitting cultures from around the world.
The 85th edition of Pitti Immagine Filati, held in Florence, Italy
proved to be an invaluable platform for the mohair industry as
the show launched a Sustainable section entirely dedicated to
sustainability and its multiple facets. The project was inspired by
the growing need worldwide to respect the environment and save
resources. This new section was flooded with crowds throughout
the entirety of the three-day show, and it was made very clear MSA general manager Lindsay
Humphreys addressing
in which direction future buyers and designers will be paying
conference attendees on the
more attention. The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) featured RMS and the mohair industry’s
prominently, adding to the excitement of the imminent launch of sustainability journey.
the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS).
The tradeshow partnered with Textile Exchange, who hosted a
meeting where brands, designers, buyers, and processors discussed
sustainable practices and traceability, and included Mohair South
Africa’s (MSA) general manager Lindsay Humphreys to field
questions on the upcoming RMS and the road to its development.
For a fourth consecutive year, MSA had a stand at the tradeshow
and followed suit to the sustainable direction the show had
taken. Inspired by the textured terrain and soft colours of the
Karoo, the stand stood out among many. Spinners from around the
world supported the MSA stand, sponsoring sample products and
yarns to showcase just how innovative and trend-savvy working
with mohair can be.
The stand provided a further platform for conversations focused
on the RMS and investigations into allegations of animal rights
violations. Many attendees wanted to know what steps have
been put in place to ensure ethical practices are implemented
throughout the mohair value chain. Thankfully being involved
with Textile Exchange, a well-known and trusted organisation, gave
designers and buyers a sense of comfort. Many were interested
in the development and upcoming launch of the RMS, and
communication channels were established to keep brands and
retailers informed of the process.
Pitti Immagine Filati 85 fully reflected a fast-growing market that
For the last four years the Mohair South Africa stand has
demands clarity in terms of raw materials, the origin of animals, been a very popular exhibition.
production processes, and consumption.
Mohair Journal 2020 25K
ommetjie played host to
Cape Town
the first-ever Cape Town
Yarn Festival, that saw
1 500 visitors partake in
an array of activities. Online tickets
were sold out prior to the event, and
tickets at the door sold out quickly.
The event was buzzing with excitement
even as visitors queued outside the hall
of Kommetjie Primary School to get
in. Inside, stalls were set up for yarn lovers
to showcase and sell their products. From
South African Indie Dyers, imported and
local yarns, as well as fibre producers,
to lucky draws, demonstrations, and
workshops – the event had something
exciting for every yarn fanatic.
Mohair South Africa (MSA) hosted a
“Dress the Goat” competition, where
the public had to register as part of a
workshop to enter. The small wire-frame
goats were wrapped using sponsored
mohair yarn from local spinners, and
participants were encouraged to be as
creative as possible. MSA sponsored the
Yarn Festival
first and second prize, as well as a lucky
draw prize. The winning goat was named
Braveheart, dressed by the talented Rachel
Ferriman. We look forward to watching this
festival grow.
26 Mohair Journal 2020Japan Hobby Show
T
he 43rd Annual Japan Hobby Show, hosted by the
Hobby Association of Japan, had the Tokyo Big Sight
International Convention Centre filled with a range
of handcraft and hobby exhibitors. Approximately
30 000 visitors, over a three-day period, had their pick of various
activities, including cooking, ceramics, fashion, and needlework.
Mohair South Africa’s stand was set up and managed by
instructors from the Japan Handicraft Association, who were well
prepared to provide valuable information to visitors and host
various workshops on working with mohair. MSA’s own Siobhan
Momberg, from the marketing department, offered demonstrations
on hand spinning mohair tops into yarns on a traditional spinning
wheel. This drew a lot of attention as many attendees had never
seen mohair in its various forms – from greasy mohair to tops, and
finally spun yarns.
Many people were surprised by the unique qualities of mohair –
especially its softness. The popularity of the fibre and stand could
be measured by the attendance of constantly full workshops.
Mohair Journal 2020 27You can also read
