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OFC-ETN-June-July-2020_Layout 1 19/05/2020 16:49 Page 1
June / July 2020
The environmental magazine for the global textile supply chain
The world upturned...
United States of Amazon
The big coronavirus winner
Circular chemistry Post-Covid China
Groundbreaking thinking revealed Where economics trumps ecology
ETN2020_03.qxp_ETN2020_01 2020/05/14 15:54 ページ 1
w w w. s h i m a s e i k i . c o m
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Editorial June-July_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 10:10 Page 1
Upside down
The year 2020 was going to be the big green year. It’s been five years since the 2015 Paris
Editorial Office Agreement on Climate Change and our industry had unveiled new commitments, targets
MCL News & Media and tools to help global efforts to limit temperature rises below 2°C.
Hallcroft House,
Castleford Road, Things look very different now.
Normanton, The COP26 climate summit has been postponed until 2021 and the deluge of news
WF6 2DW, UK.
Tel: +44 (0)1977 708488 related to COVID-19 has wiped climate change discussions off the mainstream media map.
Fax: +44 (0)1924 897254 Meanwhile, prior to the global lockdown, we’d seen investor and market momentum
E-mail: info@mclnews.com
Web: www.mclnews.com move away from oil and towards cheaper renewable energy. But this is now in doubt, with
fossil fuels so cheap that the benefits of switching to greener alternatives are less clear-cut.
What does this mean for apparel retailers and brands who have made ambitious targets to
reach net zero or reduce their carbon emissions in line with science-based targets by 2030?
These targets include commitments to source large volumes of product from recycled
synthetic sources – that are no longer cost-effective thanks to the oil price crash (page: 28) .
Editor & founder All this raises longer-term questions.
John Mowbray To what extent will fashion’s green agenda be hamstrung as the economic wheels of
jmowbray@mclnews.com
recovery start to turn in a post-corona world? After all, money and political capital that was
being spent on a longer-term green transition will, in the short term, rightly be redirected to
the immediate human and health crisis.
Corporations and governments may prioritise the rebuilding of the economy and health
services saying there’s no cash left for a climate problem that doesn’t bite for 20 years.
Assistant editor
Chris Remington There’s no vaccine for climate change
cremington@mclnews.com
In the short term there’s no doubt that survival will trump sustainability, but consider this:
a successful vaccine would halt COVID-19. But there’s no vaccine for climate change.
It’s important to remember that every environmental impact the textile industry has,
contributes in some way to the overarching issue of climate change. From fertiliser use on
Senior reporter cotton farms, petroleum-based chemicals used to make synthetic fibres and dyes, to the use
Simon Glover of coal-fired power generation, freight and logistics, land clearances, air and water pollution,
sglover@mclnews.com
landfill and perhaps, most importantly, the overconsumption of fashion.
Contributing editor The good news is that as we start to crawl out from under the black cloud of the virus
David Styles
dstyles@mclnews.com outbreak, there are clear signs that policymakers and governments understand that we have
an opportunity to ‘buy one solution – and get another one free.’
Features and technology
Tony Whitfield The European Bank for Reconstruction and Development (EBRD) has already suggested a
twhitfield@mclnews.com post-coronavirus economic recovery strategy that stimulates the economy through
Expert contributors investment in climate improvements.
Simon Ferrigno It wants to resist stampeding – at great speed – out of a temporary healthcare crisis, only
Phil Patterson
Dr Pamela Ravasio to slam headfirst into an accelerated, irreversible climate crisis that potentially has even
Miguel Sanchez more catastrophic consequences for life on earth.
Tone Tobiasson
Molshree Vaid It seems that a medium-term green transition away from COVID-19 is definitely on the
cards and it’s those companies in our industry that position themselves now for this coming
Global advertising
David Jagger change who will be the big beneficiaries.
djagger@mclnews.com Already, international organisations (see page: 72) and multilateral development banks,
Subscriptions are sketching out a green-focused response to the coronavirus collapse. These institutions,
Paula Jones which have both the financial resilience to take a long view, and in the EBRD’s case a long-
pjones@mclnews.com
term political mandate to stay focused on climate change, are reminding overwhelmed
Design national leaders that the next step is to bring climate action back to centre stage.
Gavin Gibson
info@ggibsoncreativedesign.co.uk The coronavirus outbreak may have knocked society and the world economy off its axis,
but the medium to long-term indications are that we will still inevitably tilt towards green.
www.ecotextile.com
ecotextilenews | 1
Contents-June-July_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 13:04 Page 2
O
June / July 2020
Editorial
11
The environmental magazine for the global textile supply chain
1 Upside down
The year 2020 was going to be the
big green year... things look very different now.
The world upturned...
Opinion
42 Chemical circularity – in practise
Phil Patterson discusses ‘chemical leasing’
ahead of ground-breaking new report launch.
Un i t e d S t a t e s o f A m a z o n
16
The big coronavirus winner
C i r c u l a r c he m i st r y Post-Covid China
Groundbreaking thinking revealed Where economics trumps ecology
Issue 97 News reports
June / July 2020
4 New agenda to guide fashion through
Image: © Gabriele Maltinti | Shutterstock
COVID-19 – from Global Fashion Agenda.
Cover story 8 Environmental standard
tool gets update – launched in May 2020.
11. How it’s unravelled:
COVID-19 and
fashion supply chains 35 Cream of the crop – chemically recycled fibre.
Reflective coverage of how the virus
has impacted workers the world over. .
Ecotextile News
Subscriptions start from only £160.00.
41
48
Chemicals in clothing – a taxing issue
Lifeline – Is there a vegan fashion revolution? 20
Published six times per year in magazine and digital 57 Pandemic closes down recycling markets
format. Includes all digital back issues, premium web
access, weekly e-bulletin, mobile app.
61 Money talks – the latest on the #PayUp campaign.
Electronic storage or usage
Permission of the publisher is required to store or use
electronically any material contained in this journal, 69 Breaking the cycle – supply networks not chains.
including any article or part of an article.
Notice 70 The legacy of coronavirus
28
No responsibility is assumed by the publisher for any
commercial loss as a matter of products liability, negligence
or otherwise, or ideas contained in the material herein.
72 Europe tends green shots of recovery
© Published by MCL News & Media 2020.
All rights reserved.
74 Recipe for success? – ZDHC grows its remit.
ISSN: 1752-7422
Features
www.mclnews.com
16 Damage control
www.twitter.com/ecotextile
The ILO aligns industry under new action plan.
Find us on LinkedIn
www.facebook.com/ecotextile
20 Will COVID-19 stifle
retail’s sustainability push?
David Styles speaks with Mike Barry,
former director of M&S’ Plan A initiative.
31
25 The United States of Amazon
Can Amazon use its position for good?
Printed on FSC® certified paper.
Contents-June-July_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 13:05 Page 3
CONTENTS
28 Perfect storm hits rPoly industry
31
What’s the future for recycled PET?
Under strain
The Sustainable Apparel Coalition intervenes
38
in member supply chain disputes.
36 Blockchain helps to save
the Mongolian steppes
Mongolia’s cashmere industry
capitalises on latest technology.
38 Sustainability in China
‘at crossroads’ post COVID-19
The IPE’s Ma Jun gives insight into life in China.
42
46 Single use – double trouble
Virus strains both human
health and the environment.
52
50 Saline solutions
Could salt reduction technologies
soon become essential for dyeing?
52 Could COVID-19 help cotton
find a future?
The next stage of the Cotton 2040 mission.
58 Transparency report –
some progress; could do better
Fashion Transparency Index tracks brand performance.
66 Please, back off
Is fashion partially to blame for COVID-19 outbreak?
66
80 Arise, the carbon conscious consumers
Shoppers savvy to fashion’s footprint.
Every issue
7, 23, 55, 77, 78, 83, 84, 86, 87, 88
News, comment, analysis
80
62 Cotton Horizons
89 Events calendar
ecotextilenews | 3
Retail_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 12:34 Page 4
RETAIL
of win-wins to embedding
sustainability in the
recovery of their businesses,
including the fact that
stakeholders are also
shifting towards more
sustainable practices.
New agenda to Two thirds of consumers
state that sustainability has
become even more
guide fashion important to limiting
the impact on climate
change following COVID-19,
through COVID-19 according to the
McKinsey survey.
Investment communities
The Global Fashion Agenda has released a new are increasingly driving
deeper reassessments of risk
guide to help fashion leaders ‘futureproof’ and asset values during this
their businesses post coronavirus pandemic. crisis. With sustainability’s
increasing impact on returns,
sustainable investment can
Simon Glover reports.
provide better risk-adjusted
40%
A
s fashion brands “However, this crisis returns to investors.
and retailers presents an opportunity for of consumers, who did Moreover, regulators are
focus on us to re-evaluate its entire not shop online exploring bold green
economic system of operations. I urge previously, started commitments as part of
survival during the COVID- fashion leaders to rethink using online channels their stimulus packages
19 crisis, they would do well and rebuild systems in a during COVID-19 and during COVID-19 to
to put sustainability at the collective effort to ensure a 26% expect to shop integrate sustainable growth
heart of their plans to thrive just and resilient future less at physical stores into recovery plans.
following COVID-19 –
during the ‘new normal’ on post-pandemic.” Karl-Hendrik Magnus,
McKinsey post COVID-
the other side of lockdown. The CEO Agenda 2020 senior partner and co-leader
19 consumer survey
That is the conclusion of details six opportunities for of the apparel, fashion and
Global Fashion Agenda’s fashion executives to rebuild luxury group at McKinsey &
(GFA) newly released CEO post-pandemic: Company, said: “The sustain-
Agenda 2020 report that’s ■ Map social and ability of the fashion
based on in-depth research , environmental impacts industry is becoming signifi-
interviews with industry along the value chain cantly more, not less,
leaders and input from global
management consultants
■ Build trust and
brand loyalty
71% important to consumers,
investors and regulators as a
of consumers plan to
McKinsey & Company. It’s ■ Raise the bar on supplier invest in higher quality result of this crisis.
claimed to outline opportu- relationships and shift to garments and make “Fashion industry leaders
nities to rebuild the industry equal partnerships use of circular business should therefore re-new their
with guidance for recovering ■ Address stock levels and models, such as commitments and find ways
profitability and embedding markdowns by scaling resale, rental or to make use of the crisis as an
greater resilience by new business models refurbishment, opportunity to accelerate the
advancing sustainability. ■ Accelerate the digitalisation
following COVID-19 - transformation towards more
McKinsey post COVID- sustainable business models.”
Eva Kruse, CEO, GFA, said: of business processes
19 consumer survey
“I’m well aware of the ■ Shape the e-commerce Helena Helmersson, CEO,
battlefield fashion leaders infrastructure of the future H&M Group, commented:
are on every day in these It says, that while brands “The current crisis forces all
weeks and months, and how and retailers re-organise for of us to take difficult
sheer survival is the top the ‘new normal’ post- decisions every day – myself
priority for many. COVID-19, there is a range being no exception.” ■
4 | ecotextilenews
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P7 News_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 11:28 Page 7
NEWS
US Senate bill sanctions Global brands
back UN-led
China on forced labour Recover
WASHINGTON D.C. – The Xinjiang, where it’s Widespread reports Better plan
US Senate has approved a believed millions of dating back to 2017 have GLOBAL – More than 150 global
bill to sanction Chinese Uyghur Muslims are held consistently shed light corporations - including H&M,
government officials against their will and on what experts believe to Inditex owner Zara, IKEA and
responsible for forced forced to produce goods be the largest mass PVH, have signed a 'Better
labour camps in the for industries including detention of people since Recovery' statement urging
western region of fashion and textiles. World War 2. governments to align post-
After reaching a pandemic socio-economic
China’s Xinjiang region is
a cotton production hub. breakthrough with recovery with climate science.
legislation that began to The CEOs of Burberry, Arc'teryx,
take shape late last year, Vaude Sport, Grupo Malwee
the new Uyghur Human (Brazil) and zipper manufacturer
Rights Policy Act of 2020 YKK are also backing the
will now be put in front of initiative to target a net-zero
the US President and, if recovery from COVID-19.
enacted, would require The Science Based Targets
Donald Trump to submit a initiative (SBTi), the UN Global
report to Congress Compact and the We Mean
Cotton industry to identifying culpable Business coalition are behind
Chinese officials. what is said to be the largest ever
collaborate on COVID-19 Last December, UN-backed CEO-led climate
ZURICH — The Better Cotton they say in a joint statement. Members of the House advocacy effort.
Initiative (BCI), Committee For Cotton consumption is projected voted in a one-sided affair A total of 155 companies –
International Co-Operation to decline 11.8 per cent in the (407 – 1) to pass a version worth a combined US$2.4
Between Cotton Associations 2019- – 2020 season, according of the bill, but the trillion and representing more
(CICCA), International Cotton to the International Cotton President’s impeachment than five million employees –
Association (ICA), International Advisory Committee’s (ICAC) proceedings had held have signed the statement
Cotton Advisory Committee monthly report. back progress. urging governments around the
(ICAC) and International Textile The initiatives have jointly and The Uyghur Human world to align their COVID-19
Manufacturers Association collaboratively committed to act Rights Policy Act of 2020 economic aid with the latest
(ITMF) will all work together to to ‘contribute to the recovery of bill condemns the climate science.
address the threat of the the cotton and textile sectors in continued oppression of The signatories, which span
coronavirus on cotton supply. 2021 and beyond; communicate, Uyghur Muslims in what 34 sectors and have headquarters
The cotton initiatives say they collaborate and be responsive to are described ‘detainment in 33 countries, are all part of the
have now come together to each others' needs; continue to camps’, and recommends a Science Based Targets initiative.
promote a common set of respect the trade rules that tough response to human The statement comes as
values and a shared govern the sectors; recognise rights violations. governments around the
commitment to safe trading and and publicise positive If enacted, not only world are preparing trillions of
contract sanctity across the behaviours – and identify and would President Trump be dollars worth of stimulus
global cotton community. call out negative, counter- required to submit a report packages to help economies
“Our joint challenge today is to productive behaviours. to Congress detailing such recover from the impacts of the
ensure that fair and equitable The joint statement continues: violations, but the State coronavirus pandemic.
trade practices govern the “The constraints we are currently Department would also be “Saving lives and livelihoods,
commercial relationships facing will pass and many of the tasked with assembling a and building a prosperous,
throughout the cotton and freedoms that we are used to are similar report on cases inclusive and sustainable future,
textile supply chains. We likely to return before too long. specific to Xinjiang, are at the heart of our efforts to
believe that these principles We have confidence in the future including estimates of how recover from COVID-19,”
have never been more of our industry.” many people are confined commented UN Secretary-
important than they are now,” Web: bit.ly/3e3x70r in these camps. General António Guterres.
Web: bit.ly/3e4azML Web: bit.ly/3g7Hpyu
ecotextilenews | 7
TSL_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 12:30 Page 8
TEXTILE STANDARDS & LEGISLATION
UP
DA
Environmental TED
standards tool 2020
gets update
The latest edition of the 96-page Textile
Standards & Legislation booklet which
details over 72 environmental and social
standards and complements an online
searchable tool was released in May 2020.
F
ully updated and Responsible Wool Standard.
revised since it was The Australian National Wool
last published in Declaration is also
2018, the new guide documented for the first
walks textile professionals time, which completes a trio
through the minefield of of new efforts on animal Supported by Published by
standards, voluntary labels, welfare and land use in the Formerly known as the Eco-Textile Labelling Guide
regulation and industry tools wool industry.
related to environmental and Other additions include evolved, including its new
social compliance. details of the Grüner Knopf plans to tackle air emissions
With live updates to all the sustainability standard for and the man-made
standards that it covers also textiles run by the German cellulosic fibre sector.
published in more detail at: Federal Ministry for There is also a progress
www.textilestandards.com Economic Cooperation update on the Higg Index,
there have been several and Development (BMZ). which now includes a new
major revisions and additions This label is allowed to be Brand and Retail module to
since its last publication. shown on garments at point allows users to measure the
Updates to the Guide of sale for textiles that have impact of individual products
include details on the passed certain social and they sell in their stores.
withdrawal of the ecological standards set by This year we’ve once again
Bangladesh Accord, which is the German Ministry. teamed up with long-time
now due to be covered by The Guide also gives partners on this project Messe
the Bangladesh RMG RSC details on significant criteria Frankfurt, the Sustainable
after May 2020. changes to the Global Apparel Coalition and the
It also details the Organic Textile standard European Outdoor Group
introduction of the new (GOTS), which was updated who have supported this
voluntary Bangladesh to version 6.0 and released unique project.
initiative, Nirapon, which in February 2020 along with Subscribers to the print
includes member brands updates to Oeko-Tex and copy of the guidebook can
formerly signed up to the old bluesign standards which also visit a fully searchable
Alliance for Bangladesh also took place recently. website at: www.textile-
Worker Safety. In terms of chemical standards.com to see further
New additions includes the management, we’ve added details of all these standards
Responsible Mohair Standard the Oeko-Tex Detox to Zero online with links to the
from Textile Exchange standard and looked at how relevant in-depth documents.
launched in April 2020, along the Roadmap to Zero from Web: www.mclnews.com/
with new updates to the the ZDHC Foundation has guidebooks/tsl-plus
8 | ecotextilenewsBezaktiv_FX-205x276.indd 1 23.04.20 10:14
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• Measuring and defining ‘sustainable cotton’ • Cotton standards, labelling and certification: progress reports
• The new regulatory and monitoring environments • Due diligence and the role of the OECD and EU in regulation and guidelines
• Cotton and the circular economy • Updates on pesticides use and conventional cotton
• Industry mergers: new production and growing technologies
• Traceability and the new game changers such as blockchain and DNA markers
• Benchmarking to SDGs and natural capital accounting, LCAs, science-based targets
• What might sustainable cotton look like in future? • Perspectives from industry: farmers, consumers, landscape users
• Conclusions: the state of sustainable cotton • Coming challenges: Climate change, soils, water
• The way ahead for cotton • Recommendations for the industry
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https://www.mclnews.com/guidebooksSupply Chain Map_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 12:26 Page 11
SUPPLY CHAIN
pandemic. The suggested
improvements came off the
back of a survey which
found factories to be facing a
“devastating range of issues”.
8th April: Figures from the
International Textile
Manufacturers Federation
highlight that brands have
cancelled 31 per cent of
orders globally. On the
same day, workers’ rights
NGO Remake launched
its #PayUp campaign
which spotlighted brands’
shortcomings.
How it’s unravelled: 9th April: Amnesty Interna-
COVID-19 and tional says Egyptian
workers are having to
choose between their health
fashion supply chains and their livelihoods, as
factories remain open. In
India, concerns are raised of
how home-based workers
By Chris Remington are offered financial
protection, with many only
1st April: As April rolled in, optimistically, the organi- sub-contracted with
India’s impulsive lockdown sations asked for full pay reduced entitlements.
measures left native garment throughout this period.
workers stranded and unable Comparatively, the GMAC 14th April: As Bangladeshi
to return to their home stated that native factories manufacturers estimate
villages. Horrific local reports there couldn’t afford to that the COVID-19
suggest that upwards of 20 pay even 40 per cent of outbreak has cost the
people died after attempting workers’ wages. country US$10bn, the
long-distance journeys. Clean Clothes Campaign
6th April: In Bangladesh, urged fashion brands,
2nd April: The Garment garment factory owners manufacturers and
Manufacturers Association were criticised after governments the world
in Cambodia (GMAC) thousands of workers over to establish better
warns that more than 60 mistakenly flocked to their social security measures in
per cent of factories could workplaces under the developing countries.
close as a result of impression they had
retracted orders. reopened. It came as a 15th April: Reports surface
Meanwhile, in Pakistan, leading figure in the of mass protests in
trade unionists projected country’s RMG sector Bangladesh’s major
job losses of one million in called for his compatriots production regions. Police
its textile industry. ‘not to cut corners’. reported separate incidents
in four districts of the
3rd April: Calls for garment 7th April: The Better Buying country’s capital alone.
factories to close for the initiative published Escalations heighten as
entire month of April were guidelines for brands and employers are unable to pay
made by 16 unions in retailers to best support their staff for the previous
Myanmar. Perhaps suppliers amidst the month’s work. ❱
ecotextilenews | 11Supply Chain Map_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 12:26 Page 12
16th April: The Bangladesh action plan led by the calls for urgent support for
Garment Manufacturers International Labour the “world’s most
and Exporters Association Organisation (ILO). vulnerable workers”:
(BGMEA) says local Through this, companies – home workers. It argues
factories will reopen on including Primark and that while the plight of
April 26th in a bid to save H&M – commit to workers in garment
the sector from economic supporting those in fashion factories has grabbed the
collapse. BGMEA president supply chains and vow to headlines during the
Rubana Huq says the develop more robust social pandemic, homeworkers
decision is based on the security mechanisms in have been forgotten.
stance of competing future. Read more from p16.
sectors in Vietnam and 29th April: On a day when
Cambodia, which have 23rd April: Factory owners in the CCC spoke of its concerns
remained open in parts. Bangladesh are in hot water as workers returned to the
as they’re threatened with factory floor, a Cambodian
17th April: India seeks an legal action after closing minister bizarrely looked to
even closer return, suggesting without paying staff. Labour quash fears, insisting that
it will reopen sites on the ministry official Shibnath Roy workers in the country would
20th. The country’s Apparel says businesses that did not only breach social distancing
Export Promotion Council pay workers could be sued rules with colleagues and so
needs the green light from and would not receive any would be safe.
government officials before it money from a US$588 million
introduces mechanisms for rescue package announced by 30th April: As the number
partial industrial activity to the government. of workers laid off in
begin once more. Cambodia neared 100,000,
24th April: The Clean calls from industry
20th April: Ecotextile News Clothes Campaign fears for watchdogs urged owners to
becomes aware of negoti- the safety of 120,000 suspend operations, rather
ations to launch a cross- garment workers across than close, to afford some
industry coordinated Europe being forced to income to those
response to the pandemic, work despite inadequate furloughed. Through a
through which financial safety provisions. government scheme,
support is to be provided to Meanwhile, in India, workers are being paid 37
suppliers, filtering capital garment manufacturers per cent of their wages, an
down to impoverished plead with the government estimated US$70 a month.
workers in fashion supply for financial aid as they’re
chains. Progress is held up unable to pay their bills. 1st May: “Factory owners
by stakeholders taking should be held responsible if
issue with the language 27th April: Despite lingering workers returning die of
used in the document. safety concerns, Bangladesh coronavirus.” This was the
reopens hundreds of frank remark made by
21st April: A coalition of ten garment factories putting Bangladeshi trade unionist,
international organisations thousands of lives at risk. Nazma Akter, at a time when
including Amfori, Better Despite a lack of public factories were reopening in
Buying, Fair Labor Factory transport, workers across their droves. At this time, it’s
Association and Fair Wear owners Dhaka, Gazipur, estimated that 1,100
Foundation, look to usher in should be Narayanganj and Ashulia are garment factories are now
greater brand engagement held counted on to continue operational once more.
with their suppliers via a operations amidst fears of
campaign focused on social
responsible economic turmoil. 4th May: After a troubling
protection and responsible
if workers weekend, reports surface
business conduct. returning 28th April: The WIEGO of a number of new
die of (Women in Informal COVID-19 cases in Dhaka’s
22nd April: Announced: coronavirus Employment, Globalising Savar district. Health
brands endorse COVID-19 Nazma Akter and Organising) network minister Zahid MalequeSupply Chain Map_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 12:26 Page 13
SUPPLY CHAIN
warns that factories may reportedly agreed not to
be forced to close again if sack any workers before the
a “significant number” of next Eid-Ul-Fitr holiday. It
new cases surface in the was confirmed at a meeting
coming weeks, though he in the presence of State
fails to detail what Minister for Labour and
number this might be Employment Begum
before action is taken. Monnujan Sufian, according
to ministry officials.
5th May: Garment factories Meanwhile, in Myanmar,
reopen in the Indian city of brands agree to pay
Bengaluru, despite a provide general and mental ▲ Eased travel suppliers and trade
nationwide lockdown, as health support services to restrictions has led unions to protect garment
to a series of new
government agrees to the garment workers free-of- cases in more rural factories from worst
resumption of some activities charge. Via smartphone app, areas of India. impacts of COVID-19.
in private industries. In SMS messaging or video call,
Indonesia, 70 per cent of people can contact licensed 18th May: The Bangladesh
factories face permanent doctors and counsellors an government has urged the
closure as dwindling orders unlimited number of times, European Parliament to
and exploitative state and garment workers put pressure on brands
penalties cripple companies. will be prioritised, it’s and retailers not to cancel
been promised. orders lodged with the
7th May: Reports in India country's garment
suggest that with eased 13th May: There’s confusion factories. Commerce
restrictions on nationwide in Bangladesh as industry Secretary Md Jafar Uddin
travel, COVID-19 cases have stakeholders are apart in their said in a letter to Bernd
spread from densely- estimations of just how many Lange, chairman of the
populated cities to more garment workers have been European Parliament’s
rural locations. With greater infected by the virus since Committee on Interna-
freedom of movement April 26. The BGMEA insists tional Trade: “Such
comes a higher likelihood strict safety measures are in unbearable and
of spreading the contagion place and only 20 cases have uncompassionate action by
which will be a concern for been announced since the some European apparel
garment factory owners as aforementioned date. Trade businesses does not go
they resume operations. unions place the figure closer with the idea of ethical and
to 100 people. value-based trade as
11th May: Myanmar’s propagated by the EU.”
authorities are fearful a 14th May: In Myanmar, it’s
return to the factory floor for approximated that more 19th May: New reports
garment workers could than 6,300 workers in the highlight that 73 more
cause a new spike in Yangon region alone have garment workers have now
coronavirus cases, despite lost their jobs due to the been infected by the virus in
best efforts to ensure sites pandemic, according to the Bangladesh since sites re-
are inspected for health and Confederation of Trade opened in their droves. The
safety purposes, because Unions in Myanmar. International Trade Union
Singapore’s workforce have This figure continues to Confederation Bangladesh
registered a number of new grow with the CTUM Council accuses factory
infections since resuming insisting that even after owners of not abiding by
business. Meanwhile, in collating its research, it government rules and that,
Bangladesh, violent protests had seen new sites as a result, workers are
break out over pay. reducing their workforces getting infected.
or closing entirely.
12th May: The BGMEA To keep up to date with the
partners with digital 15th May: Garment factory latest developments, visit
wellbeing assistant Maya to owners in Bangladesh have www.ecotextile.com ■
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BRAND AGREEMENT
had laid the foundations
which enabled the parties to
reach agreement on how
they would respond collec-
tively to the COVID crisis.
“This agreement is a
Brands agree to concrete framework for
further joint action to
address the impacts of the
protect Myanmar next phase on factories and
workers. We call upon all
employers and brands
Some of the biggest names in global fashion sourcing in Myanmar to
have reached an agreement with suppliers endorse it,” she said.
Bestseller responsible
and trade unions to protect garment sourcing and sustainability
factories and workers in Myanmar from the specialist Andrei Vasiliev
worst impacts of the COVID-19 pandemic. said that progress on the
ground would require all
Simon Glover reports. parties to work together with
mutual respect and trust.
H
&M, Zara owners and Welfare of Workers and He added: “Cooperation
Inditex, C&A, supporting the payment of and social dialogue between
Next, Bestseller Workers and Factories’. trade unions, employers and
and Tchibo have In it, the parties agreed to global brands is critical to
all signed up to a deal with work together to secure Brands also agreed to addressing the impact of
honour contracts for
the Industrial Workers workers’ health and safety, finished goods and COVID-19 on the industry.”
Federation of Myanmar and to promote respect for goods in production, Paul Zhu, delegate and
(IWFM) and the the ILO Core Labour to maintain communi- spokesperson of the
cation with supply
IndustriALL Global Union to Standards, including chain partners and to employer working group of
help the Myanmar apparel freedom of association. consider direct ACT brand suppliers, said:
industry cope with the They also pledged to engage support to factories. “COVID-19 is a massive
coronavirus crisis. with relevant organisations to challenge. Factories are
The agreement, which support rapid and innovative struggling and we don’t know
hopes to attract more fund-mobilisation, and when or how the industry
industry stakeholders, aims support the development of will return to normal.
to keep the doors of social protection in the “Now is the time for
Myanmar’s garment and garment and footwear employers and workers to
footwear industry open to industry in Myanmar. work together, and we also
the world and its workers The signatories agree to need to work with the
protected during and after support research by the ILO global brands to survive this
the pandemic. (International Labour crisis. The full cooperation
It was brokered by the ACT Organisation) to calculate of all the parties is the key
(Action, Collaboration, how much funding would be for the country.”
Transformation) initiative needed to address the salary IWFM president Khaing
which links brands and loss of workers in the Zar Aung said: “This
retailers and trade unions to Myanmar apparel industry framework for action comes
improve conditions for from April to July and to seek with clear commitments by
workers in the garment, funding to raise the money. the unions, the employers
textile and footwear industry. IndustriALL assistant and the global brands to
As a first step, the parties general secretary Jenny support. We are calling on
negotiated a joint framework, Holdcroft said the Myanmar other brands and industry
entitled ‘Myanmar during the Freedom of Association stakeholders to also join our
COVID-19 Crisis: Working Guideline, agreed upon by cooperation. We need to
together to Protect the Health ACT brands last November, work together.” ■
ecotextilenews | 15ILO Action Plan_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 10:44 Page 16
Damage
Control
Action plan lights fire
under fashion’s elite
By Chris Remington
A
bold new strategy Capitalising on an from factory closures and
set out by the estimated US$14 billion, for the resultant financial
International a range of industries made hardship this would cause, a
Labour Organi- available by the Interna- swift return to work for
sation (ILO), International tional Finance Corporation many has left industry
Organisation of Employees (IFC), of the World Bank, it watchdogs wondering how
(IOE), International Trade aims to provide the those on the factory floor
Union Confederation foundations of restorative can be kept safe.
(ITUC), and the IndustriALL efforts, with all involved “Jobs, incomes and social
Global Union, along with working collaboratively to protection are the
NGOs and finance ensure a much-needed cash- dividends of business
institutions, is underway flow to those on the lowest continuity and this action
and helping to provide rungs of supply chains. Read plan calls for emergency
financial respite for supply on for our Q&A with the ILO’s funds and social protection
chain workers amidst these Dan Rees for further insight. for workers to guarantee
uncertain times. Endorsing brands work by industry survival in the
Following what were a checklist of actions as per poorest of our countries,”
fraught discussions their commitment, these the ITUC’s general secretary,
between leading brands include: paying manufac- Sharon Burrows, said.
and retailers during the turers for goods completed “Leadership and
on-boarding process, an or in-production; cooperation from all
outcome was reached and a maintaining quick and stakeholders are vital to
agreement finally agreed. effective open communi- realise a future based on
Called COVID-19: Action cations with suppliers; resilience and decent work.”
in the Global Garment considering direct financial Going forward, it’s hoped
Industry, this new action aid to suppliers where this collaborative enterprise
plan aligns stakeholders Companies endorsing feasible; and promoting will prove a springboard to
the action plan include:
from across industry with a Adidas, H&M, Primark, respect for the ILO’s core create more robust fashion
common goal: to support Inditex, PVH, Marks & labour standards. supply chains, and as such,
those in fashion supply Spencer, VF In countries like will continue for the
Corporation, Under
chains by providing capital Armour and Zalando. Bangladesh, Cambodia, foreseeable future, though
throughout the height of Myanmar and Vietnam, first priorities will be to
the pandemic, ensuring reports unfolding each and mitigate damage in a world
infrastructure stands the every day paint a picture of acclimatising to the damage
test of time and that it can the crisis within their caused by virus.
be bolstered going forward respective ready-made Three cross-industry
in case of future shocks to garment sectors. Whilst efforts see brands commit to:
the market. initial concerns stemmed calling on government andILO Action Plan_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 10:44 Page 17
COVID-19 ACTION PLAN
financial institutions to industry. The ILO’s role was those have been set up in
accelerate access to credit, simply to convene conver- response to the crisis: the
benefits, loans and other sations between different World Bank, the Interna-
forms of fiscal stimulus; industry stakeholders and tional Finance Corporation,
engage with these the priorities you see in the individual donors, the UN
authorities to mobilise document, the ones that rose has a US$2bn fund; those are
funding through quick to the top – there are many not specific to manufacturing
income support; and using more issues – but I think or the garment sector, they’re
funding to enable manufac- these were the ones that about the whole response,
turers to ensure business reached the top as what I think this is about is
continuity, including absolutely critical with creating an efficient way to
payment of wages regardless respect to protecting workers align key stakeholders in the
of contract type. and employers. garment industry that
“Our action will focus on represent the interests of
protection for workers and Why do brands endorse, manufacturers, workers,
employers in countries with rather than sign up to or businesses along the supply
the weakest health and commit to, this action chain and government, and
social protection systems, plan? What are the having a conversation about
and those whose work distinctions and are how we can help. There’s a
demands special measures you still able to hold lot of work to do here, I make
to ensure their safety and brands accountable? no bones about that, we’re all
health,” the organisations’ The proposition is that in a situation we weren’t
statement reads. brands and other organi- expecting and this is
sations make it publically responding to an emergency
Ecotextile News clear that they commit to the we’ve heard about many
speaks with Dan things that are relevant to us times before on a scale we’ve
and work together to achieve never dealt with, but this
Rees, director of the them. The discussion across seems like the most practical
International the industry revealed a thing to move forward.
Labour Organi- consensus that there needs to
sation’s Better Work be collective action and then In practice, how will this
it was, ‘well what are the work? Do the factory
programme, to means in which collective owners reach out or will
learn more about action is going to happen?’ authorities or even brands
this new ambitious And an agreement on the make the decisions?
action plan and common principles is the I don’t say this to be either
first step to doing that. That evasive or irritating, but
how exactly it was seen as the most efficient every place is different. We
will operate. mechanism in order to would have to be prepared
garner that commitment as a for different mechanisms
Where did this idea come first step to the action that and different ways of
from and what challenges you see in the document. working to take place in
has the ILO faced with different countries and that’s
onboarding brands? With regards to because of the priorities of
When the crisis broke out in apportioning funding, government, about schemes
January, it started to disrupt what mechanisms are in that already exist in terms of
the industry pretty heavily, place to do this… how do providing protection, and
first in South-East Asia. I the financial institutes the strengths of the industry
would say a conversation operate in this equation? actors. It will happen
grew pretty organically in The role of the big differently in different
the industry. A lot of development banks and places, but the action plan is
industry leaders and organi- donors is essentially to aligning different initiatives
sations were having conver- provide funding that across the supply chain to
sations as there are already normally goes through identify what their added
established networks in the governments. A number of value is and what their ❱
ecotextilenews | 17ILO Action Plan_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 10:44 Page 18
COVID-19 ACTION PLAN
responsibilities are and how if large sums of money are
they can be seen to help. As going to be put to bailouts
it unfolds, in terms of the like this, then the question
practical action, people in arises of the impact of that
the process will be much and building back resilience
more able to answer that in the sector that there isn’t
question, it’s just a bit early now, but of course, it takes
to be specific because right time to do this. The goal is
now we can’t be. longer-term in growth
recovery, but work on it and
How do you ensure that consideration of it needs to
work in this action plan start now.
is transparent?
In discussions around that, I How do you monitor
think workers’ organisations brand engagement
have said that they feel they employed, limited safety ▲ Dan Rees, director of in this action plan?
the International Labour
would have a role to play, nets and need for much What this document does is
Organisation’s Better
clearly donors and help. The first pieces of work Work programme. call on organisations to
governments will want to be for the working group are to endorse. There is no
really clear about what the clarify that. intention in this effort,
accountability mechanisms which is really focusing on
are. In some countries of the How can brands funding that’s needed, to
world there are social contribute to social monitor the activity of
security and other schemes protection efforts given individual organisations. It’s
that really administer the that this is typically clear that others outside of
kind of bailouts that we’re government-led? this process will play that
seeing. It’s difficult enough What’s clear is that in some role, it’s clear that they can
in the UK. In countries that countries the crisis has come probably lever this to do
don’t have that, there’s no at such a speed and has really that, but the role of this is
easy answer to that revealed the fragility of some not to monitor.
question, but it’s a question of the businesses models and
that needs to be answered jobs within the industry. I Is there any assurance
with context. Clearly, such think there’s a very clear that organisations
schemes would need to be priority in this document endorsing this aren’t
very well announced. that when you build back, using it as a marketing
you have to build something tool to say they’re at the
How will garment back with more resilience. forefront of this work?
manufacturing regions I’m sure donors would have I think those assurances
be earmarked for capital to ask why would we bailout need to come from those
through this project? an industry that could be just organisations and doubtless
The focus of this initiative is as vulnerable to these kinds the suppliers that they work
really on the most of shocks that we’re told with. They’ve made that
vulnerable. There isn’t a are likely more and more in commitment and they need
place where we work that the future. to stand up and justify it.
doesn’t need help, but I
think the approach that’s It’s mentioned in the How do you intend
taken is, in the first document that endorsing to get more brands
instances, protecting the organisations will work involved with this?
most vulnerable. Priority with you to create the In the end, it’s up to the
countries will be chosen on infrastructure for social brands to decide whether
that basis, I think high on security that’s required. Is to endorse this or not. The
everyone’s mind has been this a longer-term aspect IOE has a particular responsi-
countries like Bangladesh of the action plan then? bility in terms of coordi-
and Cambodia, where there Absolutely. I think it’s a nating in this role and getting
are large numbers of people question for now in terms of businesses on board. ■
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the sale of brand-new apparel
was already in motion, he
Will COVID-19 stifle continues, citing the
exponential growth
retail’s sustainability push? experienced by platforms
such as ThredUP and Depop
in recent years; but the
months of global inactivity
Mike Barry, former head of sustainability at Marks & during lockdown could now
see that trend gather yet
Spencer, sits down with David Styles to discuss COVID-
more pace.
19, curtailing consumption and coaxing the industry Marrying together
towards a more sustainable future – but perhaps not in a consumer incomes being at
way the sector envisaged prior to the global pandemic. risk in a global economic
downturn, the rise of resale
outlets and a growing
B
est known for his rebounding to where we interest in sustainable
leadership of the were,” Barry begins. “Instead, products, “a very different
Plan A sustain- consumers are now being future lies ahead”, according
ability strategy confronted with the entirely to the former M&S director.
during a 19-year stint at different question of whether As CEOs are forced – for
Marks & Spencer, Mike they ever need to buy brand the very first time in some
Barry has long been at the new apparel again.” cases – to ponder the
forefront of sustainable With the exception of Plan importance of sustainability,
progress – both in the A at M&S and a handful of Barry predicts boardroom
fashion retail sector and other corporate plans, he discussions are already
nowadays far beyond. explains, “most of the under way to plot new ways
Looking ahead to the technical improvement in of creating value.
coming decade, he sees that terms of sustainability has While wholesale change
the uncertainty stemming long been done at a middle- may well be nearing,
from the coronavirus ranking level, with good shopping habits won’t alter
outbreak provides proof of stuff achieved but all the
We’re not overnight, he quickly adds.
just how far the textile time with the sheer volume racing to get “We have to be slightly
industry has already come of consumption overtaking back to what cautious because what we
on environmental issues. everything else.” The we used to have seen is online retail
“If the outbreak had pandemic, he says, has booming even during
occurred five or 10 years ago, changed all this.
have; that lockdown; with fast fashion
thoughts would have A departure from the heavy platform readily available.
probably been about usage of virgin materials and is burnt Nevertheless, the positive is
that many of those
garments will be resold on
emerging platforms as the
trend accelerates.”
Food for thought
Calling on his experience in
multichannel retail, Barry
identifies distinct parallels
between the paths lying
ahead for fashion and food.
He foresees a splintering of
the respective markets into
spaces focused on science,
anti-consumption and a
volume play.Mike Barry_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/05/2020 10:36 Page 21
RETAIL
In terms of apparel, the Mike Barry, depression may well have
science-led niche will usher architect of the stifled such efforts for the
Marks & Spencer
in a rise of 3D printed Plan A initiative foreseeable future.
garments based on personal “Of course, a degree of
body scans; anti- government intervention
consumption efforts will be would help, particularly by
led by an ever-growing slice placing a small levy on all
of the market devoted to garments – as was proposed
resale; and the highest by Mary Creagh’s Environ-
volumes will still belong to mental Audit Committee
‘middle of the road’ brands (EAC) inquiry into the
who choose to gradually fashion industry – to ensure
improve on the status quo. the billions of garments
While the latter may seem Major retailers like produced every year can be
the least progressive, Barry H&M are already recycled.” Given that these
trialling this approach.
knows from his own See Ecotextile News, proposals in the UK were
experience at a major June 2019, pp. 38 – 41. To change this meaningfully, ignored prior to the
retailer that the biggest ships Barry believes, would cost pandemic, there is little
take the longest time to turn hundreds of millions of hope this issue will remain
around. “With Plan A at dollars with no guarantee on the Government’s radar.
M&S, our primary focus was of success. “Government finances and
to ensure every garment was While no B2C standards bandwidth will be stretched
fundamentally better than it have gained universal to the absolute limit; the
would have been in the recognition, the sector least of its interventionist
marketplace normally. Over coalescing around B2B interests will be focused on
time this delivered signifiers has been far fashion,” Barry concludes. “I
significant gains.” more successful. think fashion will be left to
Despite sharing a direction Established at a time when fend for itself – both in terms
of travel, food and fashion Barry recalls lots of brands of bailouts and environ-
aren’t linked in every way, were looking at developing mental standards. As such, a
however. One large their own standards, the lot will still depend on self-
difference is evident in the Higg Index did a “really good regulation and new market
way consumers engage with In 2019, the EAC job of saying to the whole forces to drive change.”
proposed UK retailers
provenance, Barry tells should pay a tax of one industry, we’re all in this While another ten-year
Ecotextile News, particularly penny per garment that together and need a cycle has begun in
in relation to certifications would have raised £35 common way of describing tumultuous fashion, Mike
million a year to fund
and standards. more collections and product footprints and Barry remains optimistic
“The food scares of the better recycling measuring them in a that a better industry will
1990s – foot and mouth practices. Its advice consistent way”, he states. emerge by the time the
was ignored.
disease, mad cow disease and The job of forging ahead much-discussed landmark of
E. coli – drove safety fears to sustainability work will have 2030 arrives. “While we were
the point where people to continue emanating from drifting steadily and slowly
started to look for certifi- within the industry, Barry towards a better model,
cations as a way of feeling continues, despite a COVID’s going to accelerate
they were buying something Fashion will heightened degree of that. The key is that we’re
better for them overall. That political engagement in not racing to get back to
helped grow awareness
be le to recent times. 2019 was, after what we used to have; that
around standards.” fend for all, a big year for govern- platform is burnt,” he asserts.
Fashion standards today, itself – both mental interventions in the “The next ten years won’t
he notes, remain highly in terms of fashion sector, with the be neat and tidy. It certainly
production focused – French administration won’t happen in the lovely,
making it difficult to convey
bailouts and leading the way. managed way that many
a message to the consumer environ- But the architect of Plan A would have hoped for, but I
of any sense that a given mental believes COVID-19 and the do think we’ll end up in a
product is better for them. standards knock-on economic more sustainable place.” ■
ecotextilenews | 21You can also read
