WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK

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WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020             Drive Out: KONARK
 APRIL 2020 `50
www.kolkataonwheels.com

                                Food For Thought      Changing Face               Hideout
                              Summer Salads         Bailey Bridge          Subhash Sarovar
                              Gourmet Greens       Now at Salt Lake            Hidden Gem
                                                                                             1
WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
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WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
Vol. 12 I ISSUE: APRIL 2020

Editor Souvik Ghosh
Executive Editor Trina Das Gupta
Associate Editor Jonaki Lahiri

Editorial Advisors P Thankappan Nair,
     Tarun Goswami, Pradeep Gooptu

Art Director Koushik Chatterjee
Graphic Designer Bappa Das
Photographer Subha Sengupta

Marketing Incharge Subhodeep Roy
Circulation Incharge Santanu Chatterjee

Team WHEELS
   Kunal Banerjee, Basudev Ghosh,
   Sandeep Sardar, Ashis Kr Bagchi,
   Subroto De, Uttam Bose, Partha Laha,
   Debasish Bose, Debopam Banerjee,
   Arnab Bhowmick, Krishnendu Basu,
   Saradindu Sanyal, Alok Nag, Swarup Paul,
   Dipanjan Ganguly, Sandip Hunday,
   Aritra Sardar, Aditya Dasgupta

Traffic Committee
    Jayant Basu (Chairman),
    Anubrata Gangoly, Rajib Majumdar,
    Elina Sengupta
   Contact: 8961086998

                                                 W
   Email id: traffic@kolkataonwheels.com
                                                             e are passing through                Please note, the column on ‘New Car
Parking Committee
   Shivaji Sengupta (Chairman),                              difficult times. The ongoing      Price List’ had to be dropped for this
   Samirendra Nath Mukherjee,
   Debraj Dey, Anirvan Chaudhuri
                                                             COVID-19 pandemic has             issue, as some of the car manufacturing
   Contact: 9051027773                           taken a massive toll the world over and       companies have not yet come up with
   Email id: parking@kolkataonwheels.com         continues to pose a threat to each one of     the updated price list on their official
Social Service Committee                         us, irrespective of our location.             websites due to BS-VI upgradation from
    Abhijit Biswas (Chairman),                      The sudden announcement of                 1 April 2020.
    Amit Kr Banerjee, Sudip Kr Ghosh,
    Siddhartha Majumdar, Saurav Nandy,           lockdown on 24 March had taken the               For the first time, the publishing of
    Kamalendra Narayan Deb                       citizens by surprise – rather a shock for     the printed version of the Kolkata on
   Contact: 8888003400
   Email id: socialservice@kolkataonwheels.com
                                                 which they were not prepared. Team            WHEELS magazine would get delayed
                                                 WHEELS – the action-wing of Kolkata           owing to the nationwide lockdown.
Published by                                     on WHEELS rose to the occasion. It            However, an online version of the April
Aruna Ghosh                                      immediately got itself organised through      2020 issue of the magazine would be
Guide India Publication
19-B Allenby Road, Kolkata 700020                few online meetings and announced that        published on time on 10 April. The
Tel: +91-33-24559200                             it would render unconditional help to         softcopy of the magazine issue would
Helpline: +91-9830370371                         the stranded senior members of Kolkata        be available on the official website www.
Email: info@kolkataonwheels.com                  on WHEELS, residing in Kolkata. It also       kolkataonwheels.com in a downloadable
Website: www.kolkataonwheels.com
                                                 promptly initiated the service of free home   format and would be free for all.
     Page: Kolkata On Wheels                     delivery of medicines to the Wheeling         Subsequently, the printed version of the
     Group: Kolkata Wheelers                     Community against requests received over      April issue will be published once the
     KolkataonWHEELS                             phone calls or text messages.                 restriction gets lifted.
Copyright: Guide India Publication
                                                    As obvious, all events and activities         Stay safe; stay positive!
                                                 of Kolkata on WHEELS have been
                                                 called off or postponed indefinitely until
                                                 further notice. Wheelers would be kept
             In alliance with                    posted through SMS and social media
             Automobile Association
                                                 platforms on the event schedules, post        Souvik Ghosh
             of Eastern India
                                                 lockdown period.                              editorial@kolkataonwheels.com

                                                                                                                                           5
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WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
APRIL 2020

       ISSUE: APRIL 2020
                                                                                                                                                                    India has ambitious plans for electric vehicles in
                                                                                                                                                                      coming years

                                                                                                                                                                         Five years ago, Union transport minister
                                                                                                                                                                           Nitin Gadkari announced a grand plan to
                                                                                                                                                                            put more electric cars on India's roads
                                                                                                                                                                               by 2030. Experts dismissed it as too
                                                                                                                                                                                 ambitious, and some said it was
                                                                                                                                                                                   impractical. In 2018, Gadkari
                                                                                                                                                                                     softened the pitch for EVs to a
                                                                                                                                                                                       modest 30% of the total traffic
                                                                                                                                                                                         on the road by 2030.

       26 DRIVE OUT                                Konark & RAGHURAJPUR

                                                                12   Calcutta Chronicles                        On the Road                                                                       Chandan Basu Mallik

                                                                     A Plan For Action
                                                                                                   Global concern                           Slow to pick up
                                                                18   Do You Know                   Many countries are rapidly adopting      In her 2019 Budget speech, Finance               Going Ahead
                                                                     Vanishing Legacy              EV technologies with the idea            Minister Nirmala Sitharaman                      The goal of electrification is ambitious
                                                                                                   of phasing out fossil fuel-based         announced several incentives for EV              and doable. As it is a fairly new concept
                                                                                                   automobiles to help combat climate       buyers. Despite attractive sops in 2019,         for the country, it will take some time
      07     Headlights          22   Changing Face             20   Hideout                       change and rising pollution in cities.   only 1,309 units got sold between                to nurture and gain confidence of
             Electric Vehicles        Salt Lake Bailey Bridge        Subhash Sarovar               The private-public partnership is        April and November 2019. Compared                consumers who are keen to invest in
                                                                                                   beginning to show positive results.      to global investment in EVs, India's             cleaner modes of transportation — be
                                                                                                   Countries like Britain have already      share is minuscule at 1.6% of the total          it government, private, fleet or personal
                                                                34   Car Launch                    announced plans to ban the sale of new   investment of about $40 billion globally.        given the right inputs. The key driver of
                                                                     World Premiere – SKODA AUTO   gas and diesel cars by 2035.               The automotive brands that have so             growth will be availability of products at
                                                                     and Volkswagen                  The last few months have seen          far invested in EVs for India include            reasonable price points.
                                                                                                   several EV startups (including           Tata Motors, Mahindra & Mahindra,                The charging infrastructure for EVs is
                                                                                                   2-wheelers) in the country. Now          Hyundai Motors, and MG. Several                  also an essential requirement for the EV
                                                                36   My Trip                       big automotive players are showing       other automakers are looking at how              mission to be successful and will require
                                                                     Coastal Drive - I              interest and beginning to market pure   the market for EVs develops before                an open-minded and incentive-based
                                                                                                      EVs or hybrid products. It is just    committing resources for the same.                  approach involving both government
      14     Past Perfect        41   Food for Thought          46   Kolkata Canvas
                                                                                                        the beginning with a long way
                                                                                                           to go with the right attitude,   Indian EVs
                                                                                                                                                                                                  and automotive industry.
             Armenian Ghat            Summer Salads                  Street School                           infrastructure support, and    Here are the EVs that you can buy in
                                                                                                               price points.                India right now:
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WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
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Tata Tigor EV                                                   `      Ex-showroom Price
                                                                                                                                         km warranty. On the performance            regeneration among other regular data.      fully automatic climate control, and
                                                                       `11.09 – 11.41 lakh                                               level, the car does 0-100 km/hr in            The car is offered in XM, XZ+ and        connected car app with 35 intelligent
                                                                     SPECIFICATIONS                                                      9.9 seconds, and on a fully charged        XZ+ Lux trims. The feature pack is          features.
                                                                                                                                         battery has a driving range of 312km as    impressive and can be considered              On the safety level, Nexon has secured
                                                                            Body style: Hatchback             Battery: 21.5 kWh          certified by ARAI.                         as a premium in the segment. Kit            top 5-star safety ratings at the Global
                                                                                                                                            Using a domestic electric supply,       includes automatic headlamps, fog           NCAP crash tests and active/passive
                                                                             Driving range on full charge: 213 km                        it takes around 8 hours to charge the      lamps with cornering ability, 16-           features include dual airbags, ABS with
                                                                                                                                         battery from 20% to 80% charge, while      inch alloy wheels, contrast dual-tone       EBD and cornering stability control,
                                                                                Performance (0-100 km/h): 9.7 second                     the DC fast charger would do the same      roof colour, automatic rain-sensing         ISOFIX anchorage for child seats and
                                                                                                                                         in an hour.                                wipers, and sunroof. Keyless entry,         camera-based reverse park assist.
                                                                                     Battery charge time: Up to 100% in                     The cabin layout is quite similar       push-button start, leather-wrapped            The standard vehicle warranty is
                                                                                     11 hr 30 min; up to 90% in 1 hr 30 min              to the ICE sibling, except for the fact    steering wheel, wearable key, premium       three years or 1.25 lakh km, and a
                                                                                                                                         that the information display shows         leatherette seats, electric tailgate,       5-year extended warranty is also on
                                                                                                                                         information like energy consumption,       7-inch touchscreen infotainment,            offer.
                                                                                           a regenerative braking system is available.
                                                                                           Safety features include dual airbags and
                                                                                           an anti-lock braking system as standard.
In 2019, Tata Motors introduced its
first electric vehicle, the 5-seater Tigor
                                               battery pack supports the motor set-up.
                                               On a fully charged battery, the car has a
                                                                                              The Tigor EV is available in three
                                                                                           feature-packed variants — XE+, XM+,
                                                                                                                                         MG ZS EV                                                      `      Ex-showroom Price
EV sedan, for the domestic market.             certified driving range of 213 km.          and XT+. Variants are loaded with                                                                                  `22.24 – 25.09 lakh
Initially, it was offered to government          Tigor EV has two charging ports for       modern conveniences like fully automatic
fleet customers, and now it is available for   normal and fast charging. The slow          climate control, power windows,                                                                                 SPECIFICATIONS
private users.                                 charging takes 11.5 hours, while a fast     connected car app, keyless entry and                                                                                    Body style: SUV                  Battery: 44.5 kWh
   The car's powertrain includes a 72 v        charging takes 90 minutes to charge 80%     push-button start, black and grey interior,
induction motor, which offers an output        battery. Warranty is 8 years or 1.60 lakh   Harman sound system, stylish front grille,                                                                              Driving range on full charge: 340 km
of 30 kW and 105 Nm. Power to wheels           km from the manufacturer on battery.        alloy wheels, single-speed transmission
is transferred through a single-speed            For driver engagement, two driving        system, shark-fin antenna and LED stop                                                                                     Performance (0-100 km/h): 8.5 second
automatic transmission. A 21.5 kWh             modes - Drive and Sport are offered, and    lamp, among others.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              Battery charge time: Up to 80% in 40
Tata Nexon EV                                                                                                                                                                                                                 min using a 50 kW fast charger, 7 hr
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              using 7 kW home charging port

         Ex-showroom Price
  `
         `14.97 – 17.8 lakh
   SPECIFICATIONS
         Body style: SUV               Battery: 30.2 kWh                                                                                 Morris Garages (MG), the automobile          This EV also offers three levels          seat, automatic projector headlamps
       Driving range on full charge: 312 km                                                                                              brand, is owned by SAIC Motor              of regenerative braking to recover          with LED DRLs, 17 in alloys, keyless
                                                                                                                                         Corporation Limited that made a grand      energy and increase range. Several          entry. The touchscreen infotainment
       Performance (0-100 km/h): 9.9 second                                                                                              entry in India with the Hector SUV in      options have been provided by the           system is connected with car tech and
                                                                                                                                         2019. ZS EV is MG's most high-tech car     manufacturer for charging the batteries     smartphone connectivity, tyre pressure
        Battery charge time: Up to 80% in 60 min                                                                                         ever and comes packed with innovative      by the user. There's a combined             monitoring system. It also has an
        using a fast charger, 8 hr using a 15 amp                                                                                        features. The car's propulsion set-up is   charging system (CCS) and a Type 2          electronic parking brake, PM 2.5 filter
                                                                                                                                         a front-mounted permanent magnet           port mounted within the front grille        in the cabin, panoramic sunroof, and
        home charging port                                                                                                               synchronous electric motor that delivers   for easy access. In rapid charging          rain-sensing wipers, among others.
                                                                                                                                         143 hp and 353 Nm of instant torque        mode, the ZS EV can charge from               Safety features include 6 airbags,
                                                                                                                                         through its single-speed automatic         0-80% in just 40 minutes from a 50 kW       ABS with EBD, rear parking sensors,
                                                                                                                                         transmission. The motor is powered         charging station. For home users, the       electronic stability control, hill start
The second EV model from Tata                  and waterproof battery system,                                                            by a water-cooled jacketed 44.5 kWh        car can be recharged on a standard 7        assist, hill-descent control.
Motors is the Nexon EV that was                and a regenerative charging system          electric motor generates 129 PS and 245       lithium-ion battery pack. Zero to          kW home charger in six hours.                 ZS EV is offered in two variants -
launched in February 2020. The car             specifically designed to offer zippy        Nm of torque and is mated to a single-        100km/h sprint time is 8.5 seconds.          MG has packed this offering with          Excite and Exclusive, and both are
features manufacturer's proprietary            performance, long-range, fast charging      speed automatic gearbox. The 30.2 kWh         The car has a certified by ARAI driving    the idea of pampering the users with        presented as family-friendly electric
Ziptron technology, which comprises            capability.                                 lithium-ion battery pack and electric         range of 340 km on a full charge.          features like power-adjustable driver's     models.
a permanent magnet AC motor, dust,               The 3,993 mm long Nexon EV's              motor come with an 8-year/1.6 lakh

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WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
APRIL 2020

Hyundai Kona Electric                                             `      Ex-showroom Price                                                       Mahindra eKUV100                                                 `      Expected price
                                                                         `25.28– 25.48 lakh                                                                                                                              `8.25 lakh
                                                                      SPECIFICATIONS                                                                                                                                  SPECIFICATIONS
                                                                              Body style: SUV                  Battery: 39.2 kWh                                                                                              Body style: SUV                 Battery: 11-16 kWh
                                                                               Driving range on full charge: 452 km                                                                                                            Driving range on full charge: 110-147 km
                                                                                  Performance (0-100 km/h): 9.7 second                                                                                                            Performance (Top speed): N/A
                                                                                       Battery charge time: Up to 100% in                                                                                                              Battery charge time: Up to 80% in 60 min
                                                                                       6 hr 10 min
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  The powertrain includes a 15.9 kWh
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               electric motor offering 54 PS, and 120 Nm
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               and power are routed through a single-
                                                                                               on a single charge. The car's 39.2 kWh                                                                                                          speed transmission. The battery pack is fast
                                                                                               lithium battery pack is liquid-cooled and                                                                                                       charge enabled and takes an hour to reach
                                                                                               battery takes 6 hours and 10 minutes to           The eKUV100 is the latest model to be             Since it's a newer car, the carmaker has    80% capacity. A fully charged battery will
Hyundai Motors Kona Electric has been           grille give the car its standalone aura.       refresh fully. Kona takes 9.7 seconds to          offered from Mahindra and is based on          given it a decent suit of kit based on the     enable a range of 147 km.
built on an all-new CUV platform and is            For the Indian market, the car is           reach 100 km/h from standstill.                   the brand's KUV100 compact SUV. The            facelift version of the ICE KUV100. Apart         Modern conveniences include
Hyundai's first compact electric crossover      powered by 136 PS and 395 Nm torque,              Regenerative braking output can be             production version was first shown at          from a few detailing elements, its design      manual air-conditioning, touchscreen
for India.                                      producing electric motor mated to              optimised by drivers who can help the             the Auto Expo 2020 in Greater Noida in         profile is very much the same. Badging,        infotainment, Apple CarPlay support,
  Compared with the ICE Kona version,           single-speed shift-by-wire (no mechanical      car maintain a healthy state of charge by         February. Initial offerings have been made     blacked-out grille, and charge ports are key   Android Auto, and multifunctional
in profile, they appear similar, but            linkages) automatic transmission.              adjusting the level of regenerative braking       to commercial entities at a special price of   distinguishing features between the ICE        steering wheel. Tech-based utility features
Hyundai has made the Kona Electric's               Three driving modes are available           required through the paddle shifters              `8.25 lakh.                                    and electric models.                           include remote diagnostics, cabin pre-
exterior more stylish. LED lighting and         — Eco, Comfort and Sport. ARAI has             behind the steering wheel.                                                                                                                      cooling, remote door lock/unlock, location
unique detailing like the absence of the        certified Kona's driving range of 452 km          The carmaker offers an 8-year/1.6 Lkm
                                                                                               battery warranty and roadside assistance,         Mahindra e2o Plus                                                                             tracking, and battery status updates
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               through a dedicated app.
                                                                                               besides selected charging points in some
Mahindra e Verito                                                                              selected cities.
                                                                                                                                                    `      Ex-showroom Price
                                                                                                                                                           `7.46 – 8.22 lakh
         Ex-showroom Price                                                                                                                           SPECIFICATIONS
  `
         `9.51 – 10 lakh
                                                                                                                                                           Body style: Hatchback            Battery: 15.1 kWh
   SPECIFICATIONS
                                                                                                                                                         Driving range on full charge: 140 km
         Body style: Sedan                Battery: 21.2 kWh
                                                                                                                                                         Performance (Top speed): 85 km/h
       Driving range on full charge: 110 km
                                                                                                                                                          Battery charge time: Up to 100% in 9 hr; up to
       Performance (0-100 km/h): 86 km/h
                                                                                                                                                          95% in 1 hr 30 min
         Battery charge time: Up to 100% in 8 hr 45 min                                                                                          The e2o Plus, as a compact electric city          With such a strong
                                                                                                                                                 car, can trace its ancestry to the Reva NXR    foundation for a typical city car,
One of India's early players in EVs,            driving range on a full charge                                                                   manufactured from 2013. First came the         Mahindra upgraded it with features like        amp/h lithium-ion 72 v battery pack. Using
Mahindra's second model after the e2o of        is 110 km. The basic differences                                                                 2-door four-seater e2o as the successor        electric power steering and ownership          a domestic charging point, it takes about 9
2013, was the e Verito in 2016. The sedan is    between the D4 and D6 models                                                                     of the REVAi that was also exported            protection and badged the variant as e2o       hours to refresh the battery or 90 min for
based on the normal Verito, which itself is     are output from the motor, battery                                                               as the G-Wiz. It came with automatic           Premium.                                       a 95% charge using a fast charger, which is
based on the Dacia Logan.                       pack, and driving range.                                                                         transmission and driving range of 110 km          The latest in the e2o range is a long       payable to Mahindra under the ownership
  The model is available in three variants         The EV can be charged at home              regenerative braking and normal (Eco) and          while top speed was 90 km/h.                   wheelbase version with two extra doors.        scheme.
— D2 is the entry model while D4 and D6         through a fast charger and takes around       boost driving modes. Safety features are pretty       The car uses ABS plastic in its             The length of this model is increased by 310      The automatic gearbox is carried forward
are higher specced variants. All variants get   one hour and 45 minutes to do so. Normal      basic in e Verito models, and it also misses out   construction and was co-designed with          mm to 3,590 mm, and the wheelbase is up        from the 2-door variant and gets a boost or
3 phase AC induction motor offering 41PS        charging time for a fully flat battery will   on features like Android Auto support and          DC Design. Mahindra enabled the EV             by 300 mm at 2,258 mm, which has helped        sport mode, which can use most of the car's
and 91 Nm of torque. A 21.2 kWh battery         take 8 hr 45 min. The top speed is 86 km/h,   Apple Play connectivity.                           with smartphone-controlled features, a         it become a proper 4-seater (close to Maruti   91 Nm of torque.
pack powers the motor through a direct          which makes it suitable as a city car.           The e Verito sedan is priced at `9.5l for the   GPS navigation system and a dashboard-         Alto dimensions) with space to spare.             In the unlikely event of battery juice
drive transmission, and with a claimed             Key efficiency features include            base D2 variant. The D4 and D6 variants are        mounted touchscreen, keyless entry, start/        The top-spec P8 comes with a decent         dipping below 10%, there's a smartphone-
                                                                                              priced at `9.50 lakh and `10 lakh respectively     stop button, and, most of all, regenerative    driving range of up to 140 km with a top       enabled SOS feature that gives an
KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 10
                                                                                              (all prices ex-showroom Delhi).                    braking.                                       speed of 85 km/h on a full charge of the 210   additional range of 7-10 km.               11
WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
APRIL 2020

                                                    A Plan For Action
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      For those of us who explore, probe, and interpret
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   the metropolis as it is with such ardent relish, any

C
         alcutta: 1967 – On the 17th of                                                                                                                                                                                            Plan or scheme or fantastic dream involving its
         January (to be precise), the Calcutta                                                                                                                                                                                     layout, proposed changes, or future directions,
         Metropolitan Planning Organisation         Brian Paul Bach                                                                                                                                                                however minor or radical or even viral, is of
(CMPO, est. 1961) released an ambitious                                                                                                                                                                                            utmost importance. And not only for our own
scheme of now-and-future action for India’s            Well, we know that the city          Roy...’ (West Bengal’s legendary                                                                                                       interests, but for the preservation of Calcutta’s
largest metropolis. The ‘Basic Development          didn’t exactly go to pieces, though     Chief Minister, in his Writers’                                                                                                        soul, and thus, for the benefit of all.
Plan for the Calcutta Metropolitan District,        its decline is still a subject for      Building office). Then he adds,                                                                                                           Stay curious, have fun, and be sure to come
1966-1986,’ produced under the able                 passionate addas, because many          somewhat wryly, ‘The politicians                                                                                                       when Calcutta calls!
direction of M.G. Kutty, is an impressive           ‘issues and constraints’ still exist.   have been trying to pull rabbits out
and thoroughly-researched evaluation of the            The Plan and its associated          of the hat for years.’
city and its needs. Never before had such a         volumes (embracing Howrah,                 Though the Ford-sponsored
pragmatic approach been applied to Calcutta,        Traffic and Transportation, Design      programme ended up not being
or any other Indian city. Realism was the           and Data Supplements, etc.) were        adopted, the Plan acknowledges
prime directive in this examination, and            natural results from the brief era      the Foundation in glowing terms.
sheer necessities were stressed out of sheer        that included John F. Kennedy as        At any rate, Calcutta abides.
obviousness. The distractions of politicised        bringers of optimism and its fruits.       Ensconced in one of the Grand’s
blame-naming and other petty excuses                I once attended a lecture in Oxford     west-facing chambers, with a
for conditions then-current were skilfully                                                                                         Regional Trade Flows
                                                    given by JFK’s Ambassador
avoided. After all, any problem-solving effort      to India, John Kenneth
must courageously identify flaws without            Galbraith. In his memoir,
embarrassment, loss of face, or denial. The         ‘Ambassador’s Journal’ he
solutions offered – free of frills, bonuses,        writes, ‘In Calcutta, I put a                                                                         Where the bustees are                                                    Common Calcutta clichés
or eccentricities – would not have been             shoulder behind the Calcutta
unrecognizable in Johannesburg, Detroit,            metropolitan plan that is being
Caracas, or any other city in need at the time.     developed and sponsored by
    The basic tenor of the Plan is typical of       the Ford Foundation. The
urban proposals of the day. That being: 1)          Ford team is working with the
Here is the condition and its problems. 2)          government of West Bengal.
Here are possible solutions, based on research.     I listened to an account of
Simple as that. There’s always a touch of naive-    operations of the planning
sounding idealism in such Plans, but one has        group, lunched, toured the
to start somewhere. The ‘Basic’ in the title        docks, had a session with B.C.
says it all. As Commissioner S.B. Ray states,                                        The Basics                                       The newly-arrived
‘The Plan is drawn up on the basis of a critical
examination of urgent and desperate “issues
and constraints” which demand immediate
and vigorous action.’ In other words,
upgrading necessities such as water, drainage,
transport, housing and the like get top priority,
while aesthetics go unmentioned.
                                                     For historical context
    Back in the mid-1960s, when the spotlight        - Sir Brad Leslie's                                                                                                                                                           More tram tracks recommended
of consideration shone upon Calcutta and its         floating bridge
challenges, and the Ford Foundation was invited
into the discussion, there was considerable
awareness as to what the next phase of the city’s
evolution should be. The issues considered
were not historical, nor heritage-based, nor                                                                                                                                      The urban centres identified
culturally-concerned. But rather, how was
Calcutta to function as a major metropolis on                                                                                                                                     special bed to accommodate his nearly
the world stage? In its Preface the Plan quotes                                                                                                                                   seven-foot frame, Galbraith notes the
Prime Minister Nehru, who proclaimed in 1961,                                                                                                                                     sunset across the Maidan: ‘Great fountains
‘Calcutta’s problems are national problems, and                                                                                                                                   of light shot into the sky ending in brilliant
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Navigating the Maidan
it is necessary that something special should be                                                                                                                                  saffron and pink. In this admirable setting,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   Some 'traditions' still persist
done. If the whole city went to pieces, it would                                                                                                                                  in the exact middle, was a large thunder
be a tremendous tragedy.’                                                                                                                                                         cloud complete with lightning and rain.
                                                                                                                                                                                  Calcutta, despite its squalor, is a city of
                                                                                                                                                                                  much magnificence.’
KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 12                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    13
WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
APRIL 2020

                                                                    Ghat
                                                                                       Route                                                            many contributions made by the benevolent Armenian towards

Armenian
                                                                                       Move northward by the Strand Road. Pass Canning Street on        developing Calcutta’s infrastructure and socio-cultural ethos.
                                                                                       right and turn left into Strand Bank Road from the Nagreswar     It is called a ghat because at that time, the newly constructed
                                                                                       Mahadev Temple on right. Cross the Circular Railway track and    Armenian Ghat (alias Armani Ghat) had an elegant cast iron
                                                                                       move forward to find the Armenian Ferry Ghat right before        structure with decorative floral motifs and it stood on the bank
                                                                                       you, adjacent to the Mutty Lall Seal Ghat.                       of the river. Like any other ghat, people came here to bathe, or,
                                                                                                                                                        as with devotees, to worship.
Curbing all forms of architectural exuberance and cutting across                       The Ghat                                                            What we know as the Armenian Ghat today is not the
all barriers, there lies a nondescript, old fashioned iron jetty       Jonaki Lahiri   Built in 1734 by Manvel Hazaar Maliyan, a celebrated Calcutta    original ornate cast iron pavilion of the ghat, but simply an old
on the River Ganges. Today, with its countless ferry trips, in                         trader of Armenian origin, this ferry ghat was just one of the   iron jetty, about 50 metres in length, with an arched iron shade
large steamer boats to Howrah on the other bank of the river,                                                                                           over the walkway and a ticket counter right at the entrance of
the ghat provides an essential service. In spite of its modest,                                                                                         the jetty that remains open from 8 am to 8 pm.
almost unimpressive look, the ghat is always crowded with
eager passengers, scurrying to avail a ferry ride. Presenting the                                                                                       History
Armenian Ghat – both a popular jetty and a ghat!                                                                                                        The Armenians of yore traditionally traded in spice and
                                                                                                                                                        jewellery. As per Radha Raman Mitra, Hazaar Maliyan seemed
                                                                                                                                                        to have built this river pier specifically to enable the docking of
                                                                                                                                                        ships and merchandise for supply to the merchants of the town.
                                                                                                                                                          The ghat also facilitated the plying of some of the popular
                                                                                                                                                        public transport services of the East Indian Railway Company
                                                                                                                                                        (EIR). From 15th August 1854, the EIR ran a regular train
                                                                                                                                                        service, morning and evening, between Howrah and Hooghly,
                                                                                                                                                        with stops at Bali, Serampore and Chandannagore. The fare
                                                                                                                                                        ranged from `3 for the first class to 7 annas for the third class.
                                                                                                                                                          Besides the passenger ferry services, the Cachar– Sunderban
                                                                                                                                                        despatch steamers were berthed at Armenian Ghat, while the
                                                                                                                                                        Assam–Sunderban vessels moved from Jagannath Ghat.
                                                                                                                                                          During 1854 – 1874, the Eastern Railways had their Calcutta
                                                                                                                                                        Station and ticket reservation room at the Armenian Ghat and
                                                                                                                                                        the fare covered the ferry service to the station on the opposite
                                                                                                                                                        bank. Interestingly, it is from this counter at Armenian Ghat
                                                                                                                                                        that the passengers had to buy train tickets, not just for crossing
                                                                                                                                                        the Ganges on Railway-owned steamers but also to reach
                                                                                                                                                        their desired destinations via the railways from Howrah. This
                                                                                                                                                        arrangement continued until the construction of the Howrah
                                                                                                                                                        Pontoon Bridge was completed in 1874.
                                                                                                                                                          It is mentioned in ‘Purono Kolkata’ that the Armenian Ghat

KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 14                                                                                                                                                                                                   15
WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
change of course of the Ganges due to
                                                                                                                                                     DRIVE
                                                                                                                                                                 life!
                                                                                      silting, or both, we do not know for
                                                                                      certain. It is indeed unfortunate that
                                                                                      we are unable to see even the remnants
                                                                                      of this the beautiful creation today. At
                                                                                      best we can only try to imagine what
                                                                                      the ghat must have been like in its
                                                                                      heydays. Bustling with commuters, the
                                                                                      Armenian Ghat still stands testimony
                                                                                      to the true essence of the cosmopolitan
                                                                                      sophisticate that Calcutta always has
                                                                                      been, and forever will be!

was in great demand at the time. City     Life at the Ghat
commuters flocked to it. It came in       The steamer boats at the ghat are huge,
handy when the Tramway Company            with the capacity to carry about 60-70
introduced their trial service to run a   people in a single trip. On a weekday,
3.9 km horse-drawn tramway service        the Armenian Ghat bustles with regular
between Sealdah and Armenian Ghat         office goers. Weekends however see fewer
Street on trial in February 1873. After   ferries with relatively new faces in the
a short break, the Calcutta Tramway       passengers waiting to board.
Company laid a new metre-gauge               Standing at the unadorned Armenian
horse-drawn tram track from Sealdah       Ghat, a visitor looking for the cast iron
to Armenian Ghat via Bowbazar Street,     colonnade that once stood tall, lord of
Dalhousie Square and Strand Road. The     all it surveyed, would be disappointed.
service came to a standstill in 1902.     Whether it is the ravages of time or the

                                                                                                                                 #01   Be a ‘Wheeler’
                                                                                                                                                                                 #05   Enjoy Fellowships over cocktails
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KOLKATA
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                               17
WHEELS PHOTOGRAPHY CONTEST 2020 - Drive Out: KONARK
APRIL 2020

                                                                                                                                        Buick 1935 twin-door with dog-seat           Model T, from Ford advertisement                                    Dodge Tourer, 1938

                                                                                                                                1930s Boom                                   meant that by 1937, a completely new-        based system to actuate the brakes! Its
                                                                                                                                The 1930s saw some of the most beautiful     look Buick was on the streets. Once again,   instrument panel on the dashboard had
                                                                                                                                American cars, and many graced               the rumbling exhaust note of the Buick       oil pressure and charging dials, which few
                                                                                                                                Kolkata. The number that survived was        8-cylinder engine was unforgettable.         other cars had. Hence, its reputation as a
                                                                                                                                unbelievably high. The owners loved             Styling evolution was to be seen in       car that engineers appreciated.
                                                                                                                                them as they were powerful and spacious.     the Chevrolet (like Buick, from General
                                                                                                                                The range was magical – Packard, Buick,      Motors). It was the world’s best-selling     Conclusion
                                                                                                                                Chevrolet, Dodge and Hudson.                 car and popular in India. Powerful and       I highlighted these from the huge list as a
                                                    Ford V8 sedan body                                                             Packard and Buick cars are global         lighter, its dependability, comfort and      reminder that not only have many vintage
Buick 1938, redesigned bodywork                                                                                                 stars and many ran on Kolkata’s streets.     lower fuel consumption were big selling      cars vanished from the city, but also the
                                                                                                                                Packard represented style and luxury         points.                                      diversity has been lost. It’s a tragedy, and

                                    Vanishing legacy
                                                                                                                                that very few other marques could               Dodge cars were pretty good sellers       I hope the upsurge in enthusiasm will go
                                                                                                                                match. Smooth, powerful and with a           as they had a user-friendly range of         some way to revive interest and retention.
                                                                                                                                distinctive exhaust note, Packard cars       bodywork. Attempting to match cars
                                                                                                                                were reportedly identified with the city’s   from General Motors, the D-series from
                                                                                                                                top jurists and doctors. Buick cars were     Dodge was a hit in its own way.
                                                                                                                                equally attractive. Four or five pre-1939       Hudson made innovative and superior
                                    Pradeep Gooptu                                                                              Buick cars could be seen on city roads.      American cars in the 1930s.
                                                                                                                                The older ones, of 1934-35 vintage had       Besides its distinctive

                                    T
                                                                                                                                one style of bodywork. Extensive redesign    waterfall grille, it had
                  Dodge D8 2-door           he year 2020 has been unique,           Pre-1920 cars                                                                            dual brakes. This meant
                                            for having witnessed not one,           The survival rate of entry level cars has                                                it had a hydraulic
                                            not two, but three major events         always been high. The American brand                                                     braking system, but
                                    devoted to old cars in Kolkata. The             that dominated this market was Ford.                                                     in case it failed, there
                                    sudden upsurge in expression of love for        From the 1910s to 1928, all Ford cars                                                    was a mechanical, rod-                                Studebaker, 1926 tourer
                                    the old beauties is not only a matter of        were the Model T, an amazing vehicle
                                    great hope and happiness, but also brings       that motorised America and the world.
                                    back memories of how much motoring              Superbly built and tough, the city had a
                                    heritage we have lost.                          couple of these 2900cc engine legends. It
                                       The vintage car movement took off in         had strong sales in India.
                                    the 1970s. There used to be one show, only          From the 1930s, the Ford model
                                    for cars classified as ‘vintage’ and built      ‘A’, and the small English-built 8hp
            Chevrolet 2-door        before 1939. On an average, there used          Prefect and the legendary Ford V8 were
                                    to be over 110 cars of the pre-1939 era at      popular. The V8 was especially a hit,
                                    these rallies! Today, there are less than 60!   being a great performer, in sedan or                     Ford model A
                                       The 100-plus cars did not reflect the        tourer bodywork.
                                    possessions of some of the major old                The Studebaker was another popular
                                    families – they were not eager to flaunt        car on show, being very graceful and
                                    what were much personalised objects of          clearly in the slightly snobbish league
                                    their family’s love and pride.                  in terms of styling and brand value.
                                       One Kolkata trend was on display             The cars had hand-built bodywork with
                                    – the city's love affair with American          specially ordered fittings like curtains
                                    ‘metal.’ Most of these vehicles have            and vases inside, unlike the spartan
                                    vanished, and that is really sad!               Fords.
  KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 18                                                                                                                                                                            Dodge Tourer                                                            19
APRIL 2020
                                                                                                                                                                                                                               MARCH   2020

                                                                                                                                                                        are located on EM Bypass and Narkeldanga Main Road,
                                                                                                                                                                        around the corner of EM Bypass right opposite the Grand
                                                                                                                                                                        Hyatt Hotel.
                                                                                                                                                                           An ideal spot for a family picnic in a familiar location,
                                                                                                                                                                        one can simply escape to this lovely lake with two tiny
                                                                                                                                                                        islands secluded by the over-arching trees surrounding
                                                                                                                                                                        it. A winding paved walkway around the water body
                                                                                                                                                                        guarded by decorative iron railings is similar to
                                                                                                                                                                        Rabindra Sarovar. You may saunter idly on the soft green
                                                                                                                                                                        grass and gulp down volumes of oxygen. Tread beyond
                                                                                                                                                                        the Hanuman Mandir and you’ll probably see young

                                                                                                                  Team WHEELS

                                                                                                                                                                                  Timing: 4:30 am to 6:30 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                  Entry Fee: NIL    Refreshment: In vicinity

                                                                                                                                                                        lads taking a dip in the cool waters of the lake.
                                                                                                                                                                           Walk down further to the community hall built by
                                                                                                                                                                        KMC for social gatherings. Settle down on one of the
                                                                                                                                                                        benches around the trail and listen to the trilling of
                                                                                                                                Car Parking: On Narkeldanga Main Road   innumerable birds on the twin islands in the middle of
                                                                                                                                opposite Swabhumi                       the lake.
                                                                                                                                                                           Go beyond the Swimming Club and you would
                                                                                                                                                                        find an ascending ramp, leading to a small hillock.
                                                                                                                                                                        As you climb the steps, you will find an idol of Lord
                                                                                                                                                                        Shiva in meditation under a tree set in the middle of a
                                                                                                                                                                        round railed mound. The view of the lake from here is
                                                                                                                                                                        mesmerising. The yellows and reds of the full-bloomed
                                                                                                                                                                        trees during the Spring make for a picturesque sight.

                                                 During times of uncertainty and stress, when you are desperately
                                                 looking for a break, a small visit to this enchanting lake called
                                                 Subhash Sarovar on EM Bypass can be a heart-warming idea. This
                                                 beautiful 73-acre nature park lies at Phool Bagan in Beleghata.

                                                 While thousands of people travel on the EM Bypass every
                                                 day, rarely does one stop to step into this lush green lake-land
                                                 or wander about the beautiful waterside walkway. The vast
                                                 waterbody, though an artificial one, is as old as its more popular
   Location: 'Subhash Sarovar'
   Opposite the Grand Hyatt Hotel on EM
                                        Bypass   sibling, Rabindra Sarovar, in South Kolkata. Unfortunately, this
                                                 lake has been existing in relative obscurity owing to its unkempt,
                                                 poorly maintained surroundings. The recent beautification by
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Wheeler Rajib Majumder, Anwesa
                                                 Kolkata Municipal Corporation has unveiled the hidden gem that                                                                                  Mukhopadhyay and Abhiraj Majumder
                                                 Subhash Sarovar happens to be.
                                                    There are five entrances to Subhash Sarovar. The main gates
KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 20                                                                                                                                                                                                                  21
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         21
APRIL 2020

    Salt Lake Bailey Bridge
                                                                                            VIP Road to AE Block
                                                                                                                   Team WHEELS

                                                                                                                                                                     Keep left after descending from the flyover at Baguihati

                                                                                                                                                                     Bailey bridge has brought down
                                                                                                                                                                     the distance and driving time
                                                                                                                                                                     drastically. Reaching one’s office
                                                                                                                                                                     or residence inside Salt Lake
                                                                                                                                                                     City from the airport has now
                                                                                                                                                                     become a breeze. Being able
                                                                                                                                                                     to avoid the traffic gridlock of
                                                                                                                                                                     VIP Road and the Ultadanga
                                                                                                                                                                     Crossing during peak hours is
                                                                                                                                                                     an added boon.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                           Reach Canal Side Road at AE Block in Salt Lake

                                                                                                                                                                  ▶ VIP Road to Bikash
                                                                                                                                                                    Bhawan, Salt Lake, by the
                                                                                                                                                                    Bailey bridge:
                                                                                                                                                                   Distance: 1.5 km

I
    n the absence of a bridge over the   the NSC Bose Airport towards                                                            Canal and arrive at the AE
    Kestopur Canal, until recently,      Ultadanga, driving down the                                                             Block in Salt Lake City.          Driving time: 4 min
    motorists had to take a detour       Baguihati flyover and continuing                                                          For Bikash Bhawan, turn                                                                 Right turn from the bridge connects EM Bypass
via Ultadanga and EM Bypass to           for a kilometre (just ahead of the                                                      right after the Bailey bridge
reach Salt Lake City from VIP Road       Lake Town footbridge across VIP                                                         and proceed through the          ▶ VIP Road (Kolkata Gate) to
(Kazi Nazrul Islam Avenue). With         Road and Kolkata Clock Tower),                                                          Canal-Side Road and turn left
the laying of a new Bailey bridge        enter the bus bay on the left.                                                          to enter the 3rd Cross Road to
                                                                                                                                                                    Bikash Bhawan, Salt Lake,
over the canal, accessing Salt Lake         Follow the bus bay looking for                                                       reach the Central Park.            via Ultadanga and EM
City from VIP Road has become            the small boards pointing towards                                                                                          Bypass:
convenient and a lot of unnecessary      the Bailey bridge. Proceed a                                                            Note: The traffic movement on
delays dispensed with.                   little to find the new iron bridge                                                      the Bailey bridge is one-way      Distance: 5.2 km
Route
                                         on your left, which allows the
                                         passenger vehicles from VIP Road
                                                                                                                                 round-the-clock – from VIP
                                                                                                                                 Road to Salt Lake City only.
                                                                                                                                                                   Driving time: 14 min
Proceeding southbound from               to cross the narrow Kestopur                                                              Undoubtedly, the Salt Lake
                                                                              Look for signboards in the bus-bay                                                                                                           Left turn from the bridge connects Baisakhi Island

KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 22                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  23
Traffic Committee
                                                                                                                  Contact: 8961086998
                                       Event Calendar                                                             Email: traffic@kolkataonwheels.com

   TBA
   (To be announced)
                                      17th WHEELERS MEET
                                                For Wheelers & Guests
                                                                                               The Traffic Committee has planned to review
                                                                                               the implementation of recommendations of the
                                                                                               Traffic Committee survey which was submitted to
   09-18 May                          drive tour: Bhutan                                       the Kolkata Traffic Police towards improving the
                                                                                               motoring experience in the city. Accordingly, a status
   (To be confirmed)                            For Wheelers & Guests
                                                                              check through a repeat survey was planned by the committee.
                                                                                 The Committee has also planned to conduct a fresh survey
   14 June                     WHEEL DRILL TRAINING MEET                      in other parts of the city, both of which were put on hold due to
   (To be confirmed)                                    For Wheelers          the lockdown.
                                                                                 In the meanwhile, the Committee has planned to approach the
                                                                              Department of Transport, Government of West Bengal and DC
                                                                              Traffic, Kolkata Traffic Police, to seek clarification on the Central
    Announcement                                                              Government notifications on maintenance and production of vehicle
                                                                              related documents in electronic format by a car owner.

       All events and activities of Kolkata on
                                                                        Parking Committee
                                                                                                                  Contact: 9051027773
       WHEELS will be announced/confirmed                                                                         Email: parking@kolkataonwheels.com

       after the assessment of the Covid-19
                                                                                             Recent news in the media regarding the initiative
       situation post-lockdown.
                                                                               P             by Bidhannagar Municipal Corporation (BMC) to
                                                                                             float tenders for an additional 13 parking zones in
                                                                                             Salt Lake City areas are being viewed as a positive
                                                                                             development. Post-implementation, parking in
                        Birthday Greetings                                 unauthorised areas is expected to reduce substantially which in
                        to WHEELERS                                        turn should also curb fleecing by unauthorised parking agents.
                                                                              The only disturbing news is the high parking fee structure.
                                                                           Unlike Kolkata Municipal Corporation (KMC), Bidhannagar
                                                                           Municipal Corporation (BMC) parking rates for cars is `20 for
                                                                           the 1st hour and `15 thereafter, which is exorbitant for general
           15 April		    :		   PARTHA MUKHERJEE                            motorists. The Parking Committee has decided to meet BMC
           15 April		    :		   SAMICK KUMAR SINHA                          officials to discuss the issue for revision.
           16 April		    :		   SHILADITYA DASGUPTA                            The KMC has also started a drive to curb fleecing by parking
           16 April		    :		   RAKESH PRASAD                               agents. KMC officials have planned to move around the city for
           18 April		    :		   BINOD BIHARI BISWAS                         checking and educating both parking agents as well as motorists
           19 April		    :		   DEBRAJ DEY                                  to improve the scenario. Another significant step is the introduction
           23 April		    :		   ASHOK KUMAR BASU
                                                                           of a Helpline number 1800 345 3375 by KMC for addressing all
           24 April		    :		   SUVENDU BISWAS
                                                                           parking related issues.
           25 April		    :		   SUPRIYO BANERJEE
           26 April		    :		   KARNA SENGUPTA
                                                                              Both the abovementioned initiatives by the civic bodies of
           26 April		    :		   DIBAKAR DUTTA                               Kolkata and Bidhannagar are welcome developments, and if
           26 April		    :		   SUBRATA BANERJEE                            implemented in the right spirit, will go a long way.
           30 April		    :		   PARTHA LAHA
           01 May		      :		   ASIM KUMAR MUKHOPADHYAY
           02 May
           02 May
                         :
                         :
                               GAUTAM DE
                               PRADIP GHOSH                             Social Service Committee               Email: socialservice@kolkataonwheels.com

           04 May		      :		   SEKHAR MUKHERJEE
           05 May		      :		   AMARNATH BANERJEE
           07 May		      :		   GAURAV UDANI
           09 May		      :		   SOUGATA GHOSH
           10 May		      :		   ADITYA PODDAR
           12 May		      :		   RAVI SHANKAR ASOPA
           13 May		      :		   KAUSHIK SENGUPTA                           Order your
           13 May		      :		   SANDIP KUMAR HUNDAY                        WHEELS Car
           13 May		      :		   SANJOY KUMAR MISRA                         Bin Bag @
           14 May		      :		   ANINDA BISWAS
                                                                          `100 only            Call 8888003400

KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 24                                                                                                                                    24   25
503 km  JANUARY 2020
                                                                                                                                                              Distance from Kolkata

                                                                                                                                                                  10 hours
                                                                                            is a Y-fork. The left of the Y-fork is the                             Driving Time
                                                                                            conventional route to old Puri passing
                                                                                            through narrow and congested roads.                                  3-4 days
                                                                                               Team WHEELS recommends you take a                                  Trip Duration
                                                                                            right from the Y-fork that passes through
                                                                                               Satapada and connects the western
                                                                                                   end of Puri through the newly
– Raghurajpur                                                                                         constructed Jagannath Sadak. The
                                                                                                       road would take you directly to
                                                                                                                                            driving to Konark from Puri, take the new
                                                                                                                                            Jagannath Sadak and proceed towards
                                                                                                          the west end of Puri’s Marine     Bhuvaneswar. In 15 km, make a U-turn on
Team WHEELS                                                                                                  Drive through Baliapanda,      NH-316 for the flyover towards Konark.
                                                                                                                  meeting the sea. A        Follow the flyover to hit a T-junction on

W
                                                                                                                     left turn on Marine    the Puri-Konark Marine Drive (where the
            aking up to the sound of the      towards Kolaghat. Follow the underpass                                    Drive would         road from old Puri meets from right). Turn
            waves of the deep blue hitting    before Kharagpur, turning left to continue                                   connect you to   left from the T-junction and follow the
            the beach at the crack of dawn,   on NH-16 passing through Belda, Jaleswar,                                      Swargadwar.    Puri-Konark Marine Drive for another 27
we stretched luxuriously. Another day         Balasore and Bhadrak. Go over Mahanadi                                                For     km to reach Konark.
for Team WHEELS to sink into its warm         Bridge, followed by Cuttack and proceed                                                          At the end of the road is the
embrace. Another day, yet again, where        towards Bhuvaneswar. Just after crossing                                                      Chandrabhaga Beach. Turn left from
we could let our hair down and enjoy          the second bridge on River Mahanadi                                                           the beach to find the Sun Temple car
untrammeled freedom as we explored            before Bhuvaneswar, enter the service lane                                                    parking. Team WHEELS recommends
the vignettes of this resplendent beach       on the left, indicating ‘Puri’, leaving NH-                                                        (although the old route from Puri is
city – Puri.                                  16. Continue for 200 meters till you                                                                 shorter by 12 km), the new route as
   A hearty breakfast at the East West        reach a four-point crossing. From                                                                     faster and better.
Hotels provided us with just that right       here, turn left to enter NH-316 and                                                                     The road from Puri to Konark is
amount of zeal needed to pursue on our        proceed towards Puri.                                                                           very picturesque, dotted with sand dunes
trail of Odisha architecture – the renowned      After 56 km from                                                                           and Casuarina trees. However, due to the
Sun Temple at Konark.                         Bhubaneswar, you will find                                                                    tragic effects of Cyclone Fani, hundreds
                                              a road on your left that                                                                      of Casuarinas that once lined the roads,
Route                                         connects Konark, followed                                                                     now lie uprooted, by the side of the road.
Start from Vidyasagar Setu and enter          by a flyover across NH-                                                                       Enroute, there was a light drizzle that was
NH-16 (NH-6) following the slip-road          316. Within 1.5 km of the                                                                     replaced by glittering sunshine before we
on the left at the end of Kona Expressway.    flyover (with an Indian                                                                       reached the temple. The drive took us a
Continue straight on NH-16 (NH-6)             Oil pump on left), there                                                                      little more than an hour.

                                                                                                                                                                      Sun Temple at Konark

KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 26                                                                                                                                                                 27
APRIL 2020

                                              Konark, a UNESCO World Heritage Site,                                    The seven horses of the chariot-temple are
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      ROUTE MAP
                                              is the perfect example of an era when                                    believed to represent the days of a week,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 KOLKATA - PURI, ODISHA
                                              Kalingan architecture had reached its                                    while the wheels of the temple are sundials,
                                              pinnacle. We marveled at the majestic                                    depicting a 12-hour cycle that can be used                                                                                                   ROAD                  ROUTE
                                              temple of the 13th century with the                                      to calculate the time accurately to the                                                                                                      NAME                DESCRIPTION
                                              geometric precision of its intricate carvings.                           minute. A guide showed us how to calculate
                                              It is believed to have been built on the edge                            the time with the help of the sunlight falling                                                                                            VIDYASAGAR Set car’s trip meter to "0".
                                              of the sea–which today has fortunately                                   on the wheels.                                                                                                                     0.0         SETU        Pay toll tax and enter Kona
                                              receded to a respectful distance.                                           Though the main tower no longer                                                                                                        (Toll Tax Point) Expressway

Team WHEELS on Puri-Konark Marine Drive          Built in the 13thcentury by King                                      exists, we discovered that the architecture
                                              Narasimhadeva of the Ganga dynasty,                                      resembles the holy JagannathTemple of                                                                                              4.3
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    KONA    Pass Santragachi Railway
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 EXPRESSWAY Station on left
Konark                                        the magnificent temple resembles the                                     Puri. On either side of the main temple
There are three entrances to the Sun Temple. mythological chariot of Suryadev (the Sun                                 are colossal figures of royal elephants
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Follow the slip road on your
In the absence of a dedicated parking lot for God) with twelve wheels on either side and                               and horses. Of the 22 subsidiary temples                                                                                                     KONA    left connecting NH-16 (NH-6)
private cars, we had to park our car on the   pulled by seven horses. We realized that                                 that once stood within the enclosure, the                                                                                          7.7    EXPRESSWAY (do not go onto the fly-over on
road near the temple complex earmarked for from the sides, the temple looks exactly                                    two that remain are the Vaishnava and                                                                                                                    right towards NH-19 (NH-2)
parking and walked down to the temple.        like a chariot, and from the front, a temple.                            Mayadevi Temple.
                                                                                                                                                                                                         The 700-year old sculptures are mostly intact               NH-16      Follow the soft left bend and
   The multitude of souvenir shops selling                                                                                                                                                                                                                8.2
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Structure                                                          (NH - 6)    meet NH-16 (NH-6)
traditional gift items inside the temple
complex were (qualifying multitude) was                                                                                                                                                          The original temple, which had a main
a major distraction. Having purchased                                                                                                                                                            sanctum sanctorum (vimana), estimated to                            NH-16      Pay toll tax at Dhulagori
                                                                                                                                                                                                 have been 229 feet tall, is supposed to have            17.5
our entry tickets, we made our way to the                                                                                                                                                                                                                           (NH - 6)    toll plaza and proceed forward
temple. Treading the compound in the                                                                                                                                                             collapsed in 1837. The main mandapa or hall
scorching sun, without our umbrellas and                                                                                                                                                         (Jagamohana), which is about 128 feet tall,
                                                                                                                                                                                                 still stands and is the principal structure in                      NH-16
drinking water, would have been difficult                                                                                                                                                                                                                55.5                   Go over Kolaghat Bridge
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    (NH - 6)
as there is hardly any shade to be found                                                                                                                                                         the surviving ruins. Among the structures
anywhere inside the complex.                                                                                                                                                                     that have survived to the current day are the                                  Proceed forward towards
                                                                                                                                                                                                 dance hall (natamandira) and the dining hall                        NH-16      Kharagpur under the flyover
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         58.9
History                                                                                                              Elevated entrance of the temple                                             (bhogamandapa).                                                    (NH - 6)    across NH-16 (NH-6) (Left goes
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                to Nandakumar/Digha)
Standing stark and proud amidst the
surrounding sands, the Sun Temple at                                                                                                                                                             Sculpture
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     NH-16      Deulia Bazar –
                                                                                                                                                                                                 The social life of the 13th century                     60.8
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    (NH - 6)    proceed forward
                                                                                                                                                                                                 commoners, as well as the royals, can be
      Infobox                                                                                                                                                                                    seen in the cleverly carved stone images of                                    Take right from the ‘Y’ fork
      Entry fee: `40                                                                                                                                                                             hunts, lovers, deities, dancers, birds, animals                     NH-16      and proceed towards
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         77.5
                                                                                                                                                                                                 and mythological creatures. Girls are seen                         (NH - 6)    Kharagpur (left goes to
      Timing: 6:00 am – 8:00 pm
                                                                                                                                                                                                 wringing their wet hair, standing by a tree,                                   Panskura)
      Days open: All
      Photography: No restriction                                                                                                                                                                playing with pets, preening before a mirror.                        NH-16      Pay toll tax at Debra
                                                                                                                                                                                                    The Konark temple is also known for its              96.6
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    (NH - 6)    and proceed forward
                                                             Chariot wheels of the main shrine work as sundials      A themed ticket counter                            Approach to the temple   erotic sculptures of mithunas. These depict
                                    Dancers carved out of                                    Souvenir shops on temple precincts                                                                  couples in various stages of courtship and                                     Proceed straight to go below an
                                            laterite stone                                                                                                                                       intimacy. The sculptures on the temple's                                       underpass turning left towards
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         113.0      NH-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Shikhara illustrate the bandhas (mudra                                         Odisha (do not go onto the flyover
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                on left towards Kharagpur)
                                                                                                                                                                                                 forms) described in the Kamasutra.
                                                                                                                                                                                                    The upper levels and terrace of the                                         Pay Toll Tax at Rampura Toll
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Konark Sun Temple contain larger and more               130.2      NH-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Plaza and continue forward
                                                                                                                                                                                                 significant works of art than the lower level.
                                                                                                                                                                                                 These include images of musicians and
                                                                                                                                                                                                 mythological narratives as well as sculptures                                  Pass by Datan and proceed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         165.0      NH-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                forward
                                                                                                                                                                                                 of Hindu deities, including Durga in her
                                                                                                                                                                                                 Mahishasuramardini avatar, killing the shape-
                                                                                                                                                                                                 shifting buffalo demon (Shaktism), Vishnu in                                   Pay toll tax at Lakshmannath
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         182.9      NH-16       Toll Plaza and continue
                                                                                                                                                                                                 his Jagannatha form (Vaishnavism), and Shiva                                   forward
                                                                                                                                                                                                 as a (largely damaged) linga (Shaivism).
                                                                                                                                                                                                    The cause of the destruction of the Konark
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                Proceed forward (left goes
                                                                                                                                                                                                 temple is unclear and remains a source of               234.5      NH-16
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                to Baripada)
                                                                                                                                                                                                 controversy. While some theories talk about

KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 28                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           29
APRIL 2020

                                                                  natural damage, others speak of deliberate
                     ROUTE MAP
                                                                  destruction in the course of being ransacked
                KOLKATA - PURI, ODISHA
                                                                  several times by Muslim armies between the
                    ROAD                 ROUTE
                                                                  15th and 17th centuries.
                    NAME               DESCRIPTION                    During the British rule, steps were taken
                                                                  for the conservation of the remaining part
                                                                  of the temple. To save the jagmohan from
                               Go through Shergarh Toll Tax       possible collapse, the four entrances were
252.7               NH-16
                               Plaza at Baleshwar
                                                                  permanently closed, and the interior was
                                                                  filled with sand, vertically from the top, by
                               Pass by Bhadrak and proceed        drilling a hole and pouring sand through
311.1               NH-16
                               towards Bhubaneswar                a funnel. The conservation of the Konark
                                                                  Temple was taken over by the Archaeological
                                                                  Survey of India (ASI) in 1939. We spent a
                               Pay toll tax at Panikoili Toll
348.3               NH-16                                         couple of hours admiring the magnificent
                               Tax Plaza and proceed forward
                                                                  700 year old sculptures and clicking endless
                                                                  photographs.
                               Pass under an iron bridge
374.4               NH-16
                               across the highway                 The Interpretation Centre
                                                                  Coming out of the temple, we visited the
                                                                  Interpretation Centre opposite the exit gate.
                               Go straight over the crossing
376.0               NH-16                                         The Centre, with its collection of sculpture-
                               at Niranjanpur
                                                                  replicas from the Sun Temple ruins, contains
                                                                  rare documents and fascinating theories                                                                                 Golden sands of Chandrabhaga Beach – a major attraction of Konark   Paintings of Raghurajpur – delicacy of craftsmanship
                               Pass through Nirghundi Toll        regarding the temple architecture, structure,
403.0               NH-16      Tax and proceed straight                                                                                                                                                   close to the Chandrabhaga Beach. We were             we had arrived at Raghurajpur. But after
                               towards Cuttack
                                                                  and sculpture, as well as its history endorsed
                                                                                                                                                                                                          super excited at the sight of the tents and          interrogation, the villagers confessed that
                                                                  by ASI.
                                                                                                                                                                                                          promised to be back soon.                            Raghurajpur was a few hundred metres
                               Proceed forward over Manguli                                                                                                                                                  After returning to the East West Hotel, we        away. Thus a word of caution: Do not
404.9                NH-16
                               Chowk just before Cuttack
                                                                  Chandrabhaga Beach
                                                                                                                                                                                                          enjoyed a traditional lunch and retired to           confuse Nayakpatana with Raghurajpur
                                                                  Just before the Sun Temple in Konark is the
                                                                                                                                                                                                          our rooms for a siesta.                              crafts village.
                                                                  serene Chandrabhaga beach named after the
                               Go on to the bridge over River     river –almost dried up now. Legend has it
411.0                NH-16                                                                                                                                                                                Raghurajpur Crafts Village                           Handicrafts
                               Mahanadi                           that Lord Krishna’s son Shambo prayed here
                                                                                                                                                                                                          In the late afternoon, Team WHEELS drove             Situated amidst groves of coconut, palm,
                                                                  to the Sun God and was cured of his leprosy.
                                                                                                                                                                                                          down to yet another interesting destination,         mango and jackfruit trees, Raghurajpur is
                                                                     After parking at the huge lot, we walked
                               Go under railway bridge at                                                                                                                                                 Raghurajpur, a heritage crafts village, close        a heritage crafts village. Best known for its
416.1                NH-16                                        down to the beach. Thanks to the weather,
                               Cuttack                                                                                                                                                                    to Puri.                                             Patachitra painters – an art form that dates
                                                                  which had once again turned cloudy by
                                                                                                                                                                                                             Route: For Raghurajpur, follow the new            back to 5 BC and Gotipua dance troupes,
                                                                  then. Shops selling gift items and food stalls
                                                                                                                                                                                                          Jagannath Sadak and go over to the other             Raghurajpur is the precursor to the Indian
                               Go on to another bridge over       packed with sea-food items were tempting.
417.1                NH-16                                                                                                                                                                                side of NH-316 near Chandanpur Bazaar.               classical dance form of Odissi.
                               River Mahanadi                     But there was something more fascinating–
                                                                                                                                                                                                             The entry to Raghurajpur is through                  Raghurajpur is a unique, quaint village.
                                                                  the variety of water-sport options ranging
                               Take the service lane on left                                                                                                                                              a small village called Nayakpatana. The              A series of twelve temples dedicated
                                                                  from water scooter, snorkeling, surfing,
                    NH-16     for Puri Bypass (Do not go on                                                                                                                                               craftsmen at the entry to the Nayakpatana            to Bhuasuni, the local deity, and also
433.6                                                             sailing to boating.
                 SERVICE LANE to the flyover towards                                                                                                                                                      village ushered us into their homes,                 various other Hindu gods such as
                               Bhubaneswar town)                     For nature lovers, there are luxury tents
                                                                                                                                                                                                          which we found filled with the unique                Radha Mohan, Gopinath, Raghunath,
                                                                  set up on the sand bar near Ramchandi,
                                                                                                                                                                                                          local handicrafts. We were certain that              Laxminarayan and Gouranga occupy the
                               Turn left for the bypass to Puri                                                     A fine work of patachitra   Indigenous paintings on different media
433.8               NH-316
                               (NH-316)

                               Go onto a bridge on the
445.7               NH-316
                               highway

                               Proceed forward towards Puri
446.4               NH-316     (road to Dhauli Shanti Stupa
                               on right)

                               Pass through a Toll Gate
455.1               NH-316
                               towards Puri

                                                                  Interpretation Centre – decoding the Sun Temple
KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 30                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               31
APRIL 2020

                                                                  central flank, while two lanes on                of Odisha now falsely claim their
                      ROUTE MAP                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     ROUTE MAP
                                                                  either side of the temples lead to               village is also called ‘Raghurajpur.’                                                                                                      PURI - KONARK, ODISHA
                 KOLKATA - PURI, ODISHA
                                                                  the houses of the artisans lined up                 As we strolled through the lanes,
                     ROAD                ROUTE
                                                                  one beside the other.                            a few of the craftsmen joined us.                                                                                                              ROAD                      ROUTE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  NAME                    DESCRIPTION
                     NAME              DESCRIPTION                   Raghurajpur is home to crafts                 We were impressed by the beautiful
                                                                  like patachitra, Tussar paintings,               mural paintings the modest houses
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Make U-turn on right on
                               Road on left goes to Konark        palm leaf engravings, stone and                  were decorated with. Jeetu Sau                                                                                                15.6             NH-316       NH-316 for taking flyover
 457.5               NH-316    (41 km.) Proceed forward           wood carvings, wooden, cow dung                  showed us the birthplace of one of                                                                                                                          towards Konark
                               towards Puri                       and paper-mache toys and masks.                  the finest Odissi exponents, Guru                                                                                                                           Take left & follow road toward
                                                                  As we entered the village, the                   Kelucharan Mohapatra.                                                                                                                         FLYOVER       flyover & proceed to Konark.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 17.7
                               Proceed forward towards Puri       humble villagers welcomed us with                   Sachikanta Sau, another artisan,                                                                                                          TO KONARK      (Bus terminus on right /
 489.8               NH-316                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    straight road goes to Puri)
                               (road on left goes to Konark)      warmth.                                          related an interesting anecdote.
                                                                     Gopal Maharana, an artisan,                   After the festival of Rath Yatra,                                                                                                          PURI-KONARK Meet Puri-Konark Marine
                            From the Y fork on NH-316 take                                                                                                                                                                                       25.1           MARINE    Drive and turn left towards
                                                                  told us that there are over 150                  Lord Jagannatha supposedly                                                                                                                             Konark
                  JAGANNATH the right towards Satapada for a                                                                                                                                                                                                     DRIVE
 491.3
                            faster connect to Puri Marine
                                                                  houses in the village involved in                suffers from fever, owing to endless
                    SADAK
                            Drive (straight goes to old Puri)     the craft trade. We learnt that it               bathing during the festival. During                                                                                                        PURI-KONARK
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Pass by Toshali Sands Resorts
                                                                  was Master Jagannath Mahapatra,                  this period, when the Jagannath                                                                                               25.7           MARINE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          on left
                               Proceed forward towards Puri                                                                                                                                                                                                      DRIVE
                  JAGANNATH
                               Marine Drive and sea beach
                                                                  a patachitra artist, who had revived             Temple remains closed, the priests                                             The exotic East-West Hotels on Puri Beach
 496.7
                    SADAK
                               (Right goes to Satapada)                                                                                                                                                                                                       PURI-KONARK
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Pass over two bridges and
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 26.0           MARINE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          continue towards Konark
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 DRIVE
                  JAGANNATH    Meet ‘T’ Junction and turn left
 502.1
                    SADAK      towards Baliapanda, Puri                                                                                                                                                                                                       PURI-KONARK
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Take right at the roundabout
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 31.1           MARINE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          towards Konark
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 DRIVE
                    ROAD TO
                               Turn right shortly to meet the
 502.7              MARINE                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    PURI-KONARK Ma Ramchandi Temple
                               Marine Drive in Puri
                     DRIVE                                                                                                                                                                                                                       44.6           MARINE    entrance on right – proceed
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 DRIVE    forward
                               Reach Puri sea beach on the
                    MARINE     extreme western side of Marine                                                                                                                                                                                                 PURI-KONARK
 502.9                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Follow road to Sun Temple –
                    DRIVE      Drive (near Baliapanda). Turn                                                                                                                                                                                     50.4           MARINE
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Chandrabhaga Beach on right
                               left for Swargadwar                                                                                                                                                                                                               DRIVE

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                SUN TEMPLE     Park car on road near Sun
                       ROUTE MAP                                                                                                                                                                                                                 53.0
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 CAR PARK      Temple in Konark
                 PURI - KONARK, ODISHA
                                                                  The bow-shaped gate signifies entry to Raghurajpur                                                                                 A deluxe suite at East West Hotels, Puri
                     ROAD                ROUTE                                                                                                             houses and also display their handcrafted        restaurant of our East West Hotel over
                     NAME              DESCRIPTION
                                                                                                                                                           items in one of the rooms. Interestingly,        the dinner.                                                Raghurajpur Artisans:
                                                                                                                                                           the village Raghurajpur is as old as                The grandeur of the East West Hotels
                               Start from East West Hotel on                                                                                                                                                                                                           Abhimanyu Bariki (Patachitra artist)
                    MARINE                                                                                                                                 the Jagannath Temple of Puri, and the            with its strategic location made our stay
  0.0                          right – proceed west to exit                                                                                                                                                                                                            Cell: 7873413607
                    DRIVE                                                                                                                                  villagers here live in harmony. Unlike           at Puri a memorable one. Lulled by the
                               Puri by Jagannath Sadak                                                                                                                                                                                                                 Sachikanta Sau (Palm leaf engraving artist)
                                                                                                                                                           Nayakpatana, villagers here do not try to        sun, the sands and the sea, packing up                     Cell: 7873413607
                    WAY TO
                               Take right to exit Puri by new                                                                                              grab customers for the business. Visitors        for home was not easy. The journey back                    Jeetu Sau (Patachitra artist)
  0.4             JAGANNATH                                                                                                                                move here freely interacting with the            home was smooth and we stayed silent,
                               highway – Jagannath Sadak                                                                                                                                                                                                               Cell: 8596978085
                    SADAK                                                                                                                                  artists. We visited several houses and           engrossed in our own thoughts. We all                      Cittaranjan Swain – Cell: 9937313573
                                                                                                                                                           bought a few handicrafts as souvenirs.           vouched, that although there is no dearth
                  JAGANNATH    Take left towards Jagannath                                                                                                                                                                                                             Jitendra Nayak (Gotipua and Odissi Dancer)
  0.6                                                                                                                                                         We came back from Raghurajpur                 of splendid beaches in our country, Puri                   Cell: 8342811499
                    SADAK      Sadak
                                                                                                                                                           early enough to be able to watch the             undeniably casts a magnetic spell over its
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Gopal Maharana (Patachitra artist)
                                                                                                                                                           mesmerising sunset slowly sink into the          visitors, luring them to come back to it                   Cell: 9938693055
                               On to dual carriageway                                                                                                      mighty sea from the sprawling terrace-           again and yet again.
                  JAGANNATH
  1.1                          Jagannath Sadak – proceed
                    SADAK
                               towards Bhubaneswar                                                                                                          ACCOMMODATION
                                                                  A typical house displaying handicrafts on sale                                                                                                                                                         Facilities
                                                                                                                                                            Name & Contact                                                Super Delux           Delux                                                         Standard
                  JAGANNATH    Proceed straight – (road on left                                                                                                                                                                                         Car Parking Driver Accm Restaurant Generator
  6.6
                               goes to Satapada)
                                                                  this art-form and brought fame                   come down to the Raghurajpur
                    SADAK
                                                                  to Raghurajpur. He has trained                   village and hone their skills in          EAST WEST HOTELS – PURI, ODISHA
                                                                  several students and brought                     patachitra.                               New Marine Drive Road, Baliapanda, Puri – 752001                 `7500             `6000
                                                                  recognition to this profession. After               Tutu, another artisan, told us         email: reservation@eastwesthotels.in                               +                 +         ✓          ✓              ✓            ✓             A
 12.0                NH-316    On to NH-316                                                                                                                                                                                    GST               GST
                                                                  Raghurajpur rose to fame, about                  that they practice their signature        www.eastwesthotels.in
                                                                  fifty-odd villages in various parts              patachitra craft in their own             Tel: +91 9583009010
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     33
KOLKATA ON WHEELS I 32
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