The Novarupta - National Park Service

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The Novarupta - National Park Service
Park Info                                                                        National Park Service
                                                                                   U.S. Department of the Interior

  The Novarupta
                                                                                   A trip planning and information guide to
                                                                                   Alagnak Wild River
                                                                                   Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve
                                                                                   Katmai National Park and Preserve

                                                                                   Issue Number 2021

                                                                                                                              ANELA KOPSHERVER

What’s Inside:
Brooks Camp...............6 Katmai Origins............14 Backcountry Travel....20
                                                     NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
                         NPS PHOTO

                                                                                                                               LIAN LAW
The Novarupta - National Park Service
Three National Parks, Many Amazing Experiences

                                                                Welcome to Katmai Country
                National Park Service                           Welcome to Katmai!                                            eruption of Novarupta in 1912 took place
                U.S. Department of the Interior
                                                                                                                              long ago when compared to a human
                                                                Katmai National Park and Preserve                             lifespan, but is geologically recent. The
                                                                (Katmai) lies within the ancestral                            resulting ash covered everything for miles
                                                                homelands of the Alutiit-Sugpiat (Aleut)                      and even today life is still recovering from
  Alagnak Wild River
                                                                people. Human habitation of this region                       the effects of the eruption.
  Aniakchak National Monument and
                                                                goes back many thousands of years and
  Preserve
                                                                speaks of thriving communities and                            Many dedicated individuals from diverse
  Katmai National Park and Preserve
                                                                perseverance in the face of challenging                       walks of life have worked tirelessly over
  Katmai was declared a National Monument                       environments. Today, the Alutiit-Sugpiat                      the years to ensure that wildlife remains
  in 1918; Aniakchak in 1978. The Alaska                        people strive to maintain their traditional                   abundant and diverse throughout this
  National Interest Lands Conservation Act of                   lifeways even in light of pressure                            region. It is in large part because of
  1980 established Alagnak Wild River, while                    brought on by an ever-changing world.                         these efforts that Katmai today supports
  Katmai and Aniakchak were expanded to                         Their connections to these lands are                          world-class fisheries and outstanding
  include national preserve areas. Katmai was                   enduring and worthy of our respect.                           wildlife viewing opportunities. To observe
  also redesignated a national park. Together,                  According, I would like to take a moment                      an Alaskan brown bear in its natural
  these lands encompass nearly five million
                                                                to acknowledge our Alaska Native                              environment is a testament to the priorities
  acres of unique landscapes managed by the
                                                                communities—be they Alutiit-Sugpiat,                          of our nation.
  National Park Service.
                                                                Dena’ina, or Yup’ik—for their enduring
                                                                legacy as the caretakers of this wonderous                    Recently, we have all experienced some
  Mailing Address
  PO Box 7                                                      land we are fortunate to experience, and                      very trying times due to the far-reaching
  King Salmon, AK 99613                                         today call Katmai.                                            effects of the global coronavirus pandemic.
                                                                                                                              Last year we were able to operate, albeit
  Park Headquarters                                             Geographically, Katmai is found on the                        at a reduced operational capacity and this
  Phone: 907-246-3305                                           Alaska Peninsula which encompasses a vast                     year promises to be similar, though we are
  Fax: 907-246-2116                                             and beautiful landscape where the National                    striving to expand visitor services where
                                                                Park Service also has the privilege of                        possible during the 2021 season. Thank you
  Websites                                                      managing Aniakchak National Monument                          for your understanding and cooperation
  Alagnak: www.nps.gov/alag
                                                                and Preserve, and the Alagnak Wild River.                     with Covid-19 related mitigations; your
  Aniakchak: www.nps.gov/ania
                                                                Regardless of your interests, collectively                    adherence to them will help us stay open
  Katmai: www.nps.gov/katm
                                                                these different park areas offer a diversity of               throughout the season.
                                                                outstanding Alaskan experiences.
                                                                                                                              We are glad you have come here to
                                                                The geology of Katmai is both ancient                         experience for yourself the sights, sounds,
                                                                and new. The park’s diverse landscapes                        and feel of this special place and we hope
                                                                comprise expansive mountains, active                          that you take home many memories that
                                                                volcanoes, flowing glaciers and a wild and                    will last a lifetime.
                                                                beautiful seacoast that is frequently fed by
                                                                sparkling rivers and lakes. The cataclysmic                   Mark Sturm, Superintendent

Contents:
Southwest Alaska’s Parklands.................................................2-3               Katmai and the National Park Idea......................................14-15
Essential Information...................................................................4      Exploring the Human History of Katmai..................................16
Getting Here, Getting Around....................................................5              Cycle of the Salmon...................................................................17
Welcome to Brooks Camp........................................................6-7              Fishing Information...................................................................18
Camping at Brooks Camp............................................................8            Backcountry Travel................................................................20-21
Brooks Camp Map........................................................................9       Aniakchak National Monument...........................................22-23
Bear Viewing.........................................................................10-11     Alagnak Wild River...............................................................24-25
Safe Travels in Bear Country.....................................................12            Park Neighbors......................................................................26-27
Live Bearcams.............................................................................13   Support Your Public Lands........................................................28
2 The Novarupta
The Novarupta - National Park Service
Alagnak                                                 Aniakchak                                          Katmai
Wild River                                              National Monument and Preserve                     National Park and Preserve

Unbounded by dams or artificial channels,               Midway down the wild, remote, and                  On June 6, 1912 residents of the northern
the Alagnak River meanders its way from                 mostly roadless Alaska Peninsula lies              Alaska Peninsula experienced one of the
headwaters in the Aleutian Range across                 one of the nation’s most fascinating, but          largest volcanic eruptions in recorded
the Alaska Peninsula to Bristol Bay and the             least visited, volcanic features. Aniakchak        history. The eruption at Novarupta
Bering Sea. The upper 69 miles of river are             National Monument and Preserve                     volcano sent ash over 100,000 feet into the
designated a national wild river, meaning               surrounds a large caldera formed by the            atmosphere, led to the collapse of Mount
free flow, no dams, and little human impact.            collapse of a 7,000 foot volcano. Set inland       Katmai, and created the Valley of Ten
                                                        in a place of frequent clouds and fierce           Thousand Smokes.
From the time of the earliest Alaskans, the             storms, Aniakchak was unknown to all
river has given much to those willing to                but area residents until the 1920s, and had        Katmai National Monument was
learn its ways. In summer, the river teems              its last eruption in 1931. Nestled inside          established in 1918 to protect the
with salmon. Falls brings migrating caribou             the caldera is Surprise Lake, a remnant of         volcanically devastated region surrounding
and berries. It traverses the beautiful Alaska          a much larger lake that catastrophically           Mount Katmai and the Valley of Ten
Peninsula, providing opportunities to                   drained in a massive flood. Warm springs,          Thousand Smokes. Today, Katmai National
experience the unique wilderness, wildlife,             melting snow, and glaciers feed Surprise           Park and Preserve is still an active volcanic
and cultural heritage of the area.                      Lake, which in turn gives rise to the              landscape, which also protects 9,000 years
                                                        Aniakchak Wild River.                              of human history as well as important
This river is one of the most popular                                                                      habitat for salmon and the thousands of
sport fishing destinations in all of Alaska.            This narrow stretch of the Alaska                  brown bears that feed on them.
Alagnak’s extraordinary rainbow trout,                  Peninsula boasts a rich human history.
char, grayling, and abundant salmon are                 Volcanoes, earthquakes, and tsunamis               Katmai is a rugged and diverse land where
some of the most attractive sport fish in the           have interrupted the human story, yet              bears are plentiful, salmon leap watefalls on
world, and the river has become the most                the land abides as a wild place where              their journey to spawn, steaming volcanoes
popular fly-in fishing destination in all of            people can experience independence and             serve as a reminder of the earth’s power,
Southwest Alaska.                                       interdependence. Life has persisted here           and where cultural change continues.
                                                        in the face of catastrophic change.
See pages 24-25 for more information.                                                                      See pages 6-21 for more information.
                                                        See pages 22-23 for more information.

                                                                                                                                                           M. FITZ

Glacially shrouded volcanoes, like Mount Mageik, form the geologic backbone of the Alaska Peninsula.
Katmai National Park is the site of the largest volcanic eruption of the 20th century (see pages 14-15).

                                                                                                                                      The Novarupta 3
The Novarupta - National Park Service
Essential Information

Dates and Hours of Operation                        page 12 for bear safety information.                 Only non-guided sport hunting is allowed in
Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai are open 24                                                               the Alagnak Wild River corridor. In all other
hours a day every day of the year. Most services    Visitors to Brooks Camp are required, upon           areas, sport hunting is prohibited. All hunting
such as lodges and air taxis operate seasonally.    arrival, to participate in a brief, mandatory bear   activities require a license and are subject to
                                                    safety talk at the Brooks Camp Visitor Center.       National Park Service and Alaska Department
National Park Service and concessionaire                                                                 of Fish and Game regulations and restrictions.
operated facilities at Brooks Camp are open         Food Storage
from June 1 through September 17.                   All food, beverages, garbage, equipment used         Weather
                                                    to cook or store food, and/or any odorous            Even during summer, visitors to the Alaska
Camping                                             items must be properly stored in an approved         Peninsula should be prepared for cool and
Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls (i.e.,    bear-resistant container (BRC) or one of the         stormy conditions with frequent strong
the Brooks Camp Developed Area), camping            food/gear caches at Brooks Camp. Certified           winds. Clear skies occur about 20 percent of
is only allowed at Brooks Camp Campground.          bear-resistant products approved by the              days. Visitors traveling to the Aniakchak area
Camping is permitted elsewhere in Katmai with       Department of Interior and Agriculture‘s             should expect significantly cooler, stormier,
some seasonal exceptions (see Hallo Bay, page       Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee can               and windier conditions. Wherever you travel,
20) and on any public lands within Aniakchak        be found at http://igbconline.org/certified-         remain aware of the dangers and treatments
and Alagnak.                                        products-list/. The Alaska Department of             for hypothermia and be equipped with
                                                    Fish and Game has an additional list of              appropriate clothing and a shelter.
Fees and Reservations                               approved items at www.adfg.alaska.gov/index.
There are no entrance fees associated with          cfm?adfg=livingwithbears.bearcontainers.             Pets
public use of Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai.                                                            Pets are not allowed within 1.5 miles (2.4 km)
                                                    Hunting                                              of Brooks Falls (i.e. the Brooks Camp
Reservations and fees are required for camping      Sport hunting is only permitted in Preserve          Developed Area). In other areas, pets must be
in Brooks Camp Campground and must be               areas of Katmai National Park and Preserve and       leashed or physically restrained at all times.
made by telepone or online prior to arrival. See    Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve.
pages 8-9 for more camping information.

Reservations and fees also apply for public use
of Fure’s Cabin at the northeast corner of the
Bay of Islands on Naknek Lake. Reservations
can be made through www.recreation.gov.

Visitor Centers
The Brooks Camp Visitor Center, open June
1 until late September, is the point of entry for
all visitors to Brooks Camp. A park ranger is
on duty to provide information, campground
check-in, bear safety talks, and backcountry           Weather Information for King Salmon, Alaska
planning. An Alaska Geographic Association
(AKGeo) bookstore offers books, maps, and
                                                       Month                   Average High              Average Low             Average Precip.
other Katmai-related items (see page 28).
                                                       January                 22.8°F (-5.1°C)           8.0°F (-13.3°C)         1.03” (26.2 mm)

Located next door to the King Salmon Airport,          February                23.8°F (-4.6°C)           7.4°F (-13.7°C)         .72” (18.3 mm)
the King Salmon Visitor Center provides
                                                       March                   32.0°F (0°C)              15.1°F (-9.4°C)         .79” (20.1 mm)
information on the many federal public lands
                                                       April                   41.3°F (5.2°C)            24.9°F (-3.9°C)         .94” (22.9 mm)
in Southwest Alaska, particularly those in the
Bristol Bay area. A large collection of films is       May                     52.1°F (11.2°C)           34.8°F (1.6°C)          1.35” (34.3 mm)
available for viewing and an AKGeo bookstore           June                    59.5°F (15.3°C)           42.2°F (5.7°C)          1.70” (43.2 mm)
sells maps, marine charts, videos, posters,
                                                       July                    63.8°F (17.7°C)           47.5°F (8.6°C)          2.15” (54.6 mm)
clothing, and more. Contact the King Salmon
Visitor Center at 907-246-4250.                        August                  62.2°F (16.8°C)           47.4°F (8.6°C)          2.89” (73.4 mm)

                                                       September               54.9°F (12.7°C)           40.3°F (4.6°C)          2.81” (71.4 mm)
Bears
                                                       October                 40.5°F (4.7°C)            26.0°F (-3.3°C)         2.10” (53.3 mm)
This is bear country! Be prepared for a bear
encounter! The Alaska Peninsula has a                  November                30.5°F (-0.8°C)           15.9°F (-8.9°C)         1.54” (39.1 mm)
substantial population of brown bears. See             December                25.1°F (-3.8°C)           9.3°F (-12.6°C)         1.39” (35.3 mm)

4 The Novarupta
The Novarupta - National Park Service
Getting Here, Getting Around

Quick Tips for Accessing Three of the Most Remote
National Park Units
Many people consider Southwest                  Aniakchak, and Katmai—provide a variety         Brooks Camp and other locations along the
Alaska’s remoteness to be an attractive         of commercial visitor services, including       Naknek River drainage can be reached by
characteristic, but the remote nature of        transportation, guided day trips, guided        both motorized and non-motorized boats
the area necessitates careful planning          multi-day trips, overnight accommodations       from Naknek and King Salmon, located
in order to overcome certain logistical         and food services. Commercial partners          west of the Katmai. Boats can access the
and accessibility challenges. Unlike            are authorized by permit to operate in          Alagnak River from towns and villages
most national parks in the United States,       the parks. A complete list of services is       along Bristol Bay and the Kvichak River.
Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai are              available at go.nps.gov/AKComm.
almost exclusively accessed by plane or                                                         Aniakchak National Monument and
boat. Much of this area is rarely visited and   Katmai National Park and Preserve and           Preserve
opportunities for incredible wilderness         Alagnak Wild River                              Aniakchak is one of the least visited and
experiences abound. Other areas, such as        Katmai is located on the Alaska Peninsula,      most remote of all national park areas
Brooks Camp, are more easily accessed and       west of the Shelikof Strait and Afognak         in the United States. It is located on the
have amenities like lodging and hot meals.      and Kodiak Islands. The Alagnak River is        Alaska Peninsula about 450 miles (724 km)
                                                located on the Alaska Peninsula about 260       southwest of Anchorage and 150 miles (241
The National Park Service headquarters for      miles (418 km) southwest of Anchorage.          km) southwest of King Salmon.
Alagnak, Aniakchak, and Katmai is located       Most destinations in the Katmai region,
about 290 miles southwest of Anchorage          including Brooks Camp and Alagnak River,        Most people access Aniakchak by chartered
in King Salmon. Regularly scheduled             may be directly accessed via air taxi flights   airplanes departing from King Salmon and
commercial flights to King Salmon are           originating from Anchorage, Dillingham,         other nearby towns and villages. Boats
available from the Ted Stevens Anchorage        Homer, Iliamna, King Salmon, Kodiak,            can access the monument and preserve
International Airport.                          Soldotna, and other nearby towns and            from the Pacific Ocean coastline. A few
                                                villages.                                       adventurous groups have also hiked into
These parklands are open year-round for                                                         the Aniakchak Caldera via a cross-country
the adventurous. Numerous companies—            Boats can access Katmai from villages and       route from Port Heiden.
over 115 in and around Alagnak,                 towns along the Pacific Ocean coastline.
                                                                                                To view a map turn to page 26.

                                                                                                                                             NPS/M. FITZ

                                                                                                                         The Novarupta 5
The Novarupta - National Park Service
Welcome to Brooks Camp

                                                                                                                                                          A. KOPSHEVER
Brooks Camp is renowned for its remarkable bear viewing opportunities. For information about bear
viewing at Brooks Camp, see page 10.                                                                     Brooks Lodge
The Bear Essentials:                                                                                     Lodging, meals, flights, and many other
                                                                                                         services at Brooks Camp are provided
Brooks Camp attracts people from all over            Naknek Lake (the largest lake within any            by Katmailand, the park’s authorized
the world to fish for trout and salmon, to           national park in the United States). From           concessioner
view brown bears, explore the Valley of Ten          June 1 to September 17, the NPS operates a
                                                                                                         For information on Katmailand’s sport
Thousand Smokes, and to learn about the              visitor center, ranger station, campground,
                                                                                                         fishing, bear viewing, air services, and
long human history of the area.                      and auditorium. Check at the Brooks Camp
                                                                                                         lodging and meal service opportunities go to
                                                     Visitor Center for any scheduled ranger             www.katmailand.com or call
Brooks Camp is situated at the mouth                 programs.                                           1-800-544-0551.
of the Brooks River, along the shore of

Please Remember...                                   Food Storage
                                                     Do not carry food, beverages, or any other
                                                                                                        Camping
                                                                                                        Within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls,
Upon Your Arrival                                    odorous items around Brooks Camp. All food         camping is only allowed in the Brooks Camp
Visitors to Brooks Camp are required to check        and drinks, except plain water, must be stored     Campground (see pages 8-9).
in at the visitor center for a brief bear safety     inside a building or in a designated food cache.
talk outlining park regulations. These important     Eat and drink only in buildings or at designated   Bear Viewing
regulations are designed specifically to keep        picnic areas. Only water can be consumed           Viewing platforms are situated to provide
bears and people safe in Brooks Camp.                outside designated picnic areas.                   exceptional opportunities for observing bears.
                                                                                                        Three platforms are located at the mouth of
Accessibility                                        Gear and Equipment Storage                         Brooks River. Two other platforms—Falls and
While most trails around Brooks Camp and the         All gear and equipment must be attended            Riffles—are located at Brooks Falls. Note:
trail to Brooks Falls are wheelchair accessible,     or properly stored inside a building. Gear or      these platforms are closed between 10:00
they are not paved and are frequently muddy.         equipment cannot be left unattended at any         pm and 7:00 am, June 15 to August 15.
The walk to Brooks Falls can be arduous for          time. Storage caches for gear are located at
some people with limited mobility. A limited         the Brooks Camp Visitor Center, Lake Brooks,       Outdoor Recreational Opportunities
number of wheelchairs are available to borrow        and in the campground.                             A variety of hiking, fishing, and boating
from the visitor center.                                                                                opportunities are available at Brooks Camp. For
                                                                                                        information visit https://go.nps.gov/rn68sz.

6 The Novarupta
The Novarupta - National Park Service
Programs
Junior Ranger Program                                                  Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes Tour                 Evening Slide Show Programs
Learn about Katmai’s natural and cultural                              A park ranger leads this scenic bus ride           Join a park ranger for a 45-minute illustrated
resources by completeing activities designed                           through some of Katmai’s spectacular               program offering information and interesting
to help you engage with the park. While                                backcountry. After lunch at the Robert F.          perspectives on Katmai’s special features,
geared toward children 5 to 13, all ages can                           Griggs Visitor Center overlooking the Valley of    history, and wildlife. Inquire at the visitor
participate. Free Junior Ranger books are                              Ten Thousand Smokes, join an optional park         center for times and topics.
available at the King Salmon and Brooks Camp                           ranger-led hike into the Valley. The hike is 3.4
visitor centers or online https://go.nps.gov/                          miles (5.5 km) round-trip, with 1,000 feet (305    Cultural History Walk
katmranger. Turn in completed books to either                          m) of elevation change. Sturdy boots, water,       A park ranger leads this short .25 mile (0.4 km)
visitor center where a ranger will swear you in,                       raingear, and warm clothes are recommended.        walk sharing the human history of Brooks River
sign your certificate, and present you with your                       The tour is 7–8 hours. Inquire at Brooks Lodge     Archeological District and National Historic
official badge. Books can also be mailed to:                           for reservations or contact Katmailand at          Landmark, including traditional Alaska Native
  Katmai National Park and Preserve                                    1-800-544-0551 and www.katmailand.com.             uses of plants and animals. The walk lasts
  Division of Interpretation                                                                                              about an hour and leads to a reconstructed
  PO Box 7                                                                                                                Alutiiq/Sugpiaq dwelling.
  King Salmon, AK 99613

                                                       NPS
    NPS
                                                                                                                              NPS

Creature Comforts: Braving Alaska’s Infamous Insects
Rain, cold winds, and the unrelenting                                  early summer. No-see-ums (very small               percent of the summer. The best defense is
onslaught of biting insects—the beauty of                              biting midges) peak in August. Population          to cover up. Many people report that insect
Alaska does indeed come at a price.                                    sizes vary each year depending on weather          repellent containing DEET is not always
                                                                       and temperatures. No-see-ums could reign           effective. Therefore, it is wise to invest in
While photographers are busy lining up                                 supreme one year and seem nonexistent              a good head net, wear long sleeved shirts,
the perfect shot at Brooks Falls, black flies                          the next. Everyone reacts differently to           and be prepared to tuck your pant legs into
and mosquitoes are working at an equally                               insect bites and thus there are differing          your socks on particularly buggy days.
frantic pace to find the perfect shot into the                         opinions on which insect is the peskiest.
photographers’ skin. So what do you need                                                                                  It may be difficult to see value in the Class
to know in order to survive with your skin                             One of the most despised insects around            Insecta, but consider the indispensable role
intact? For starters, don’t plan on being                              Brooks Camp is the white sock. A species           these insects play in the ecosystem. Male
attacked by mosquitoes alone.                                          of small biting black fly, they are nicknamed      mosquitos and black flies are pollinators.
                                                                       for characteristic white stripes on their          They all serve as food sources for other
At Katmai, mosquitos and black flies are                               legs. Swarms can be brutal and persistent,         animals. Furthermore, they respond more
typically most abundant in late spring and                             working their way under clothing. Female           quickly to environmental changes than
                                                                       flies rasp into the skin of their hosts, unlike    vertebrates do, which can help provide
                                                                       mosquitoes that merely pierce the skin with        early detection of ecological changes.
                                                                       their needle-like proboscis. Bites can be
                                                                       identified by a characteristic red incision        Regardless of their ecological importance,
                                                                       mark in the middle of the swollen bite area.       the insects of Katmai provide visitors with
                                                                                                                          something else: stories to take back home—
                                                                       Relief from biting insects usually arrives         battle scars, even—to remind us that the
                                                                       on days when the weather is windy, rainy,          beauty of Alaska can’t be won without
                                                             M. FITZ

Biting insects, like mosquitoes and black flies, are
                                                                       and just generally dismal. Fortunately, skies      persevering through hardships, however
ubiquitous in Katmai. Expect close encounters!                         around Brooks Camp are clear for only 20           large, or small, they may be.
                                                                                                                                                       The Novarupta 7
The Novarupta - National Park Service
Brooks Camp Campground

The only developed campground in Katmai
National Park and Preserve is located at Brooks
Camp.

With its wildlife viewing opportunities, access
to Naknek Lake, and stunning views of nearby
mountains, the Brooks Camp Campground
is considered by many to be one of the top
campgrounds in North America.

                                                                                                                                                                                             NPS/B. LUTES
Because of the high numbers of bears in the

                                                                                                                     NPS/M. FITZ
Brooks Camp area, the campground is specially
managed to minimize human–bear conflicts.                      Facilities in the campground include cooking and eating shelters as well as food and gear caches.
Campers must take special precautions
to reduce odors from food, garbage, and                        Cooking                                                             which also contains a trash receptacle. In order
anything else that could appeal to a bear’s                    All cooking and eating must take place within                       to prevent curious bears from investigating,
strong sense of smell.                                         one of the three shared cooking shelters. (As                       please store any unused equipment in the gear
                                                               a safety precaution, campers arriving by air                        storage cache adjacent to the food cache. A
Campground reservations are required May to                    with portable camp stoves should bring empty                        fireproof locker is available to store flammable
October and must be made in advance. The                       fuel bottles and purchase fuel at the Brooks                        materials, such as stove fuel.
campground has a limit of 60 people. See page                  Lodge Trading Post.) Wash dishes and cooking
9 for more information.                                        utensils at the water spigot near the food                          Electrified Fence
                                                               storage cache.                                                      Brooks Camp Campground is enclosed within
Campfires                                                                                                                          an electric fence designed to deter bears from
Campfires are allowed in the three designated                  Food and Gear Storage                                               entering. The fence is not bear proof, although
fire rings near each cooking shelter. Only                     All food, refuse, and any other odorous items                       once “shocked,” bears tend to avoid any
dead and downed wood may be collected for                      (e.g., toothpaste, deodorant, etc.) must be                         subsequent contact with these fences.
firewood. Please do not cook over open fires.                  stored in the centrally located food cache

     How Far is the Walk to...				                                                                                                                   (one way distances)
                                              Visitor Center

                                                                                                                                                            Falls Platform
                                                                       Brooks Camp
                                                                       Campground

                                                                                         Cultural Site

                                                                                                                                                                               Lake Brooks
                                                                                                                                       Outhouse
                                                                                                                                       Falls Trail
                                                                                                          Platform
                                                                                                          South

                                                                      0.3 mi           0.25 mi            0.3 mi                      0.6 mi               1.2 mi             1.2 mi
         Visitor Center                           0
                                                                     (0.5 km)         (0.4 km)           (0.5 km)                     (1 km)              (1.9 km)           (1.9 km)
         Brooks Camp                        0.3 mi                                     0.55mi            0.6 mi                       0.9 mi               1.4 mi             1.5 mi
                                                                           0
         Campground                        (0.5 km)                                   (0.9 km)           (1 km)                      (1.4 km)             (2.3 km)           (2.4 km)
                                            0.25 mi                   0.55 mi                             0.55 mi                     0.85 mi              1.45 mi            1.55 mi
         Cultural Site                                                                      0
                                           (0.4 km)                  (0.9 km)                            (0.9 km)                    (1.4 km)             (2.3 km)           (2.5 km)
                                            0.3 mi                     0.6 mi          0.55 mi                                         0.3 mi              0.9 mi              1 mi
         South Platform                                                                                      0
                                           (0.5 km)                    (1 km)         (0.9 km)                                        (.5 km)             (1.4 km)           (1.6 km)
                                            0.6 mi                    0.9 mi           0.85mi             0.3 mi                                          0.6 mi              0.7 mi
         Falls Trail Outhouse                                                                                                              0
                                            (1 km)                   (1.4 km)         (1.4 km)           (0.5 km)                                         (1 km)             (1.1 km)
                                            1.2 mi                    1.4 mi          1.45 mi             0.9 mi                      0.6 mi                                  1.3 mi
         Brooks Falls Platform                                                                                                                                 0
                                           (1.9 km)                  (2.3 km)         (2.3 km)           (1.4 km)                     (1 km)                                 (2.1 km)
                                            1.2 mi                    1.5 mi           1.55 mi             1 mi                       0.7 mi               1.3 mi
         Lake Brooks                                                                                                                                                             0
                                           (1.9 km)                  (2.4 km)         (2.5 km)           (1.6 km)                    (1.1 km)             (2.1 km)

8 The Novarupta
The Novarupta - National Park Service
Campground Reservations
Reservations are required for the Brooks           campground is usually full, must be prepared
Camp Campground from May to October.               to backcountry camp outside of the Brooks
Reservations can be made beginning January         Camp Developed Area—defined as the area
5 each year. Telephone and internet access are     within 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of Brooks Falls.
not available at Brooks Camp, so campground
reservations must be made prior to your arrival.   Reservations cost $12.00 per person per night

                                                                                                                                                         NPS/M. FITZ
                                                   from June 1–September 17 and $6 per person
During the month of July, campsites may            per night in May and September 18 to October
be reserved for a maximum of seven nights,         31. Please visit www.recreation.gov or call     Brooks Camp Campground is surrounded by an
                                                                                                   electric fence. It is bear-resistant, but not bear-
cumulatively. Campers arriving without a           877-444-6777 (within United States), 518-885-
                                                                                                   proof. Campers must take precautions so that bears
reservation, especially during July when the       3639 (international).                           are not tempted to enter the campground.

 Brooks Camp Area Map

                           Bear Jam!
                           Bear activity may delay travel in Brooks Camp
                           at any time. Be prepared to wait in windy
                           and/or rainy conditions and allow yourself
                           ample time to meet meal services and/or your
                           departing flight.

                                                                                                                                 The Novarupta 9
The Novarupta - National Park Service
Bear Viewing at Brooks Camp

Bears Galore
Brooks Camp is world famous for its bear
viewing opportunities. It is one of the
most accessible and popular bear watching
sites in Katmai National Park. Watching
bears at Brooks Camp is an unforgettable
experience, but timing your trip properly is
critical because the overall number of bears
as well as their general behavior varies with
the seasons.

When can bears be seen at Brooks Camp?
Bear viewing at Brooks Camp is best from
very late June through the end of July and
again in September. At other times of the
year, like June and August, less food is
available along the Brooks River so bears
are not seen as frequently.

                                                                                                                                                      NPS/M. FITZ
Springtime is a lean season for bears. Little
food is typically available to bears in the     Watching a mother bear play with her cub is an unforgettable experience.

spring so bears are dispersed throughout        The behavior and appearance of the bears              Brooks Falls.
the area and are only infrequently seen at      also varies with the season. In July, more
Brooks Camp in May and June.                    aggressive interactions between bears                 In July, many of the bears that cannot
                                                are observed, especially at the beginning             compete for fishing spots at Brooks Falls
When the salmon begin to arrive in late         of the month. Bears are also thinner and              will fish the lower half of the Brooks River.
June, bears migrate to the Brooks River.        many will shed their fur at this time. In             At this time of the year, females with cubs
Bears can be seen fishing at Brooks Falls       September, bears at Brooks Camp are                   are usually easiest to see near the mouth of
and in the lower Brooks River throughout        typically less aggressive towards each                the Brooks River.
the month of July. Mid-July is typically        other. In contrast to early summer, bears in
when the largest number of bears can be         September and later in the fall are usually           After the salmon begin to spawn and die in
seen along the river. In late July, after the   fat and covered with a new coat of fur.               late summer, bear activity is concentrated
salmon run peaks, bears begin to disperse                                                             in the lower half of the Brooks River. In
to feed in other areas.                         Where can bears be seen at Brooks Camp?               some years a few bears may still fish at
                                                The brown bears of Katmai are eating                  Brooks Falls and the upper Brooks River
In August, salmon are beginning to spawn        machines. A Katmai bear must eat a                    in September and October, but most will
in the Brooks River, but they are less          full year’s worth of food in 6-8 months               patrol the slower moving waters of the
concentrated, remain energetic, and are         to ensure its survival. Katmai’s bears                lower Brooks River as they search for dead
no longer migrating. This creates difficult     predictably congregate around rich and                and dying salmon that collect in the slow
fishing conditions for bears and almost all     concentrated sources of food. At Brooks               moving currents and eddies near the river
of the bears will leave the area. Like June,    Camp this means salmon.                               mouth and bridge.
there are typically days in August when no
bears are seen at Brooks Camp.                  During the peak of the salmon migration               Five wildlife viewing platforms can be
                                                in July, bears will fish for salmon all               found along the river – one at Brooks Falls,
By late August, many salmon have already        along the Brooks River, but bears will be             one downstream of the falls, and three at
spawned and will begin to die. As the fish      especially concentrated at Brooks Falls.              the mouth of Brooks River. Each one can
weaken and die, bears will again migrate        The falls creates a temporary barrier to              offer unique bear watching experiences in
to the Brooks River to feed. In September,      migrating salmon which gives some bears               season.
bears are usually present in high numbers       the opportunity to catch many fish with
as they search for dead and dying salmon.       little effort. Typically, the largest and most        Other Considerations
                                                dominant bears along the river fish at                Brooks Camp is a unique place with special
10 The Novarupta
regulations designed to protect bears and             as well as biting insects like mosquitos and            Give yourself extra time to walk to and
people.                                               black flies.                                            from Brooks Falls, especially in July and
                                                                                                              September.
Everyone who arrives at Brooks Camp is                Weather and bear encounters can
required to check in at the Brooks Camp               sometimes delay the arrival and departure               More people visit Brooks Camp in July
Visitor Center for a brief bear safety talk           of float planes, so it is usually best to               than any other month. If you come at this
outlining park regulations and proper                 incorporate some extra time into your                   time, expect crowded conditions especially
behavior at Brooks Camp.                              itinerary in case of any delays.                        at Brooks Falls Platform. Wait times to
                                                                                                              access Brooks Falls Platform commonly
Be sure to dress and pack in anticipation of          Access to the elevated boardwalk                        exceed 1.5 hours in July, especially midday.
diverse and changing weather conditions.              across Brooks River can temporarily                     The Platform is closed 10pm to 7am June
Whether staying for just a few hours or               close because of bear activity near the                 15–August 15.
for several days, you should expect to                boardwalk entrances. Bear activity on the
encounter windy, cool, and wet weather                trail to Brooks Falls can also delay tavel.

Other Bear Viewing Opportunities in Katmai
A bear’s waking hours are often dominated by
their search for food. Outside of their denning           Where the Wild Things Are: A Bear Viewing Calendar for
season, bears predictably congregate in food              Katmai National Park and Preserve
rich areas throughout the Katmai region. Some
areas of Katmai National Park, like the food             Location
                                                                              June                   July              August             September
                                                         (primary food)
rich Pacific coast, support some of the highest
densities of bears ever documented. Other
areas of the park with little food, such as the          Brooks Camp
                                                         (salmon)
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, support only a
few bears in any season.
                                                         Hallo Bay
                                                         (vegetation,
If you know what foods bears prefer to                   clams)
eat and when that food is most abundant,
                                                         Geographic
accessible, and nutritious, then you will be             Harbor
able to find many areas in Katmai to observe             (salmon)
these fascinating animals. Many guided trips
                                                         Swikshak
to observe bears in Katmai’s backcountry are             Lagoon
available. See the link on page 5.                       (vegetation)

                                                         Moraine Creek/
                                                         Funnel Creek
                                                         (salmon)

                                                                 = Few Bears;                 = Some Bears;              = Many Bears

                                                                                                                                                             NPS/C. TURNER

Exceptional wildlife watching opportunities can be found throughout Katmai, like Hallo Bay.

                                                                                                                                        The Novarupta 11
You are in Brown Bear Country

Prepare for Bear Encounters Anywhere You Go
Bears are fascinating animals that add                                                                 are usually noisier and smellier than a single
excitement and risk to any trip in bear                                                                person. Therefore, bears often become aware
country. Katmai National Park and                                                                      of groups of people at greater distances, and
Preserve, and the surrounding lands in                                                                 because of their cumulative size groups of
                                                                                                       people are also passively intimidating to bears.
Southwest Alaska, support some of the
                                                                                                       Hiking and traveling in groups is typically the
highest densities of bears on earth, so the
                                                                                                       best way to increase your level of safety in bear
chances of encountering a bear in Katmai
                                                                                                       country.
are very high. Before you begin your visit,
learn as much about bears as you can.                                                                  Remain Calm
You need not fear bears, but you do need                                                               A bear may approach closely or rear up on its
to respect them. Follow these general                                                                  hind legs to identify you. Back away slowly,
                               = Few Bears;
guidelines during your stay and don’t                                                                  moving out of its line of travel if necessary.
hesitate to ask your guide or a ranger for
                                                                        et Too
                                                             Don’t G
                                                                                                       You may need to leave a trail temporarily to

                                                                             omfort!
more information.                                                                                      allow a bear to pass. If a bear follows you, stop
                                                                 s e f o r C
                                                             Clo                                       and hold your ground. If a bear continues to
                                                                                                       approach, make noise, wave your arms, and try
Avoid Surprise Encounters
Take appropriate steps to avoid surprising                                                             to appear as large as possible.
bears. Where visibility is limited or where windy
conditions prevail, make noise to warn bears                                                           If A Bear Makes Contact, Play Dead
                                                    Give Bears Space
of your approach. The human voice is the best                                                          Fall to the ground on your stomach with your
                                                    Do not approach bears within 50 yards (46
tool for this. Bears may not associate other                                                           legs apart. Lock your hands behind your neck
                                                    m), or as otherwise directed by National Park
noise makers, such as bells, with people. If                                                           to protect your neck and face. If you do get
                                                    Service personnel. Some bears need more
you see a bear that is unaware of you and/or                                                           rolled over, keep rolling until you’re face down
                                                    space than others. To lessen your impact
far away, back away slowly and quietly while                                                           again. Stay quietly in this position until the
                                                    on the animals, avoid actions that interfere
observing the bear’s behavior.                                                                         bear has left the area. If the attack continues
                                                    with bear movement, behavior, or foraging
                                                                                                       long after you have assumed the protective
                                                    activities. Please check with a park ranger if
Avoid Food Sources That Attract Bears                                                                  position, fight back vigorously.
                                                    you’re unsure about a situation. In general, the
Bears can be especially protective of
                                                    greater the distance between yourself and a
concentrated food sources like salmon and                                                              For More Information and Regulations
                                                    bear, the safer you can be.
animal carcasses, so be especially cautious in                                                         Special regulations designed to keep bears
areas where bears are likely to gather and feed.                                                       and people safe apply in Katmai. See page
                                                    Hike and Travel in Groups
Stay far away from animal carcasses. Bears                                                             6 and Katmai’s bear safety pages at go.nps.
                                                    Groups of four or more people are typically
often defend these aggressively.                                                                       gov/Katmai_bearsafety for more in-depth
                                                    very safe in bear country. Groups of people
                                                                                                       information.
Do Not Run
Running may encourage a bear to pursue you.
Bears can run faster than 30 mph (50 km/hr).
You cannot outrun them. If you are charged,
try to appear non-threatening. Stand your
ground and speak to the bear in a calm voice.
Bears sometimes come within a few feet of
people before stopping.
                                                                                                                                                           NPS

12 The Novarupta
Bearcam!

Watch Live Streaming Video of Brooks River and Its Famous Bears
Watch live footage of brown bears fishing
for salmon anywhere with an internet
connection. Katmai’s bearcams are live
and freely accessible. Cameras are located
at Brooks Falls, at the outlet of the Brooks
River, near the summit of Dumpling
Mountain, and even underwater.

Don’t miss a second of the action. Go to
go.nps.gov/bearcam and follow the links to
these world famous bearcams.

Join the Bearcam Community
Connect with the growing online
community of Katmai and brown bear
stewards. Discuss recent and past bearcam
events with other fans, share your
thoughts on national parks and wildlife
conservation, and upload your favorite
                                                  Streaming webcams at Brooks River take you right
bearcam screen shots for others to enjoy.         to the action at Brooks Falls. Watch the cams at
On social media, use #bearcam and join the        go.nps.gov/bearcam.

real-time chat at the bottom of any bearcam       KATM_calendar or social media pages for            Funding for the installation, maintenance,
page on www.explore.org/bears.                    the live chat schedule.                            and technical support for the bearcams is
                                                                                                     proudly provided by explore.org. Explore.org
Ranger Live Chats                                                                                    is a philanthropic organization with a mission
Throughout the year, rangers host live web                                                           to champion the selfless acts of others,
chats on the bearcams to discuss the                                                                 create a portal into the soul of humanity, and
biology, behavior, and ecology of bears                                                              inspire lifelong learning. Katmai was granted
and the salmon they depend on. Check the                                                             $150,000 by explore.org to further fund
park’s calendar of events at go.nps.gov/                                                             educational efforts related to the bearcams.

Bears of Brooks River ebook
 Every bear at Brooks River has a story. Since
 2001, biologists at Katmai have conducted
 in-depth monitoring sessions along Brooks
 River to record data on bear and human use
 of the area. Over time, this information has
 grown into one of the most comprehensive
 data sets about bear use of a particular place
 ever recorded and provides you with the
 opportunity to learn more about the lives of
 these amazing animals.

 Brown Bears of Brooks River, a free ebook,
 provides life history and identification
 information on the most commonly seen
 Brooks River bears as well as stories about
 bear research, biology, and behavior. Visit
 go.nps.gov/katmai_ebooks to download the
 latest edition of Brown Bears of Brooks River.

                                                                                                                               The Novarupta 13
Katmai and the National Park Idea

                                                                                                                                                                 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY
The Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes filled its discoverers with wonder, awe, curiosity, and a sense of stewardship.

Robert Griggs: Katmai’s First Champion
On June 6, 1912, Novarupta Volcano                     the National Geographic Society into the                “The sight that flashed into view...was one
exploded in a remote valley on the                     heart of the area. He discovered far more               of the most amazing visions ever beheld by
northern Alaska Peninsula. For 60 hours,               than he imagined.                                       mortal eye. The whole valley as far as the
ash and pumice darkened skies across                                                                           eye could reach was full of hundreds, no
the region, pyroclastic flows and surges               In July 1916, Griggs and his team suffered              thousands—literally tens of thousands—of
buried Ukak River valley, and the summit               through exhaustive slogs in quicksand,                  smokes curling up from its fissured floor.
of Mount Katmai collapsed forming a 2000               punishing wind storms, and two                                                     Continues on page 15
feet (600 m) deep caldera.                             treacherous climbs to reach the rim of
                                                       Mount Katmai’s newly formed caldera. On
The ash and pumice released during the                 July 31, the day after their second Mount
eruption represents over 3 mi3 (13.5 km3)              Katmai ascent, Griggs continued toward
of magma beneath the earth, 30 times more              Katmai Pass. Temporarily leaving behind
magma than the 1980 Mount Saint Helens                 one companion who “was incapacitated by
eruption. The Novarupta-Katmai eruption                too many flapjacks,” he and L.G. Folsom
was the largest of the 1900s and one of the            traversed a deeply gullied notch between
five largest in recorded history.                      Mount Trident and Mount Mageik.

The eruption created a harsh land                      Just as Griggs was ready to turn back, he
                                                                                                                                                                 E.C. KOLB / NAU CLINE LIBRARY

of abandoned villages, ghost forests,                  caught sight of a small volcanic steam vent
quicksand, and ash covered mountains.                  in Katmai Pass. After warming his hands
Even so, a few people were eager to                    in this small fumarole, he spotted another,
explore the transformed terrain. Curious               much larger one nearby. Curiosity hastened
about vegetative recovery in the wake of               him forward. In the January 1917 issue of
                                                                                                               Robert Griggs (1881-1961) led several National
such a large scale eruption, Robert Griggs             National Geographic Magazine, Griggs
                                                                                                               Geographic Society expeditions that brought
organized and led expeditions funded by                described what he saw next.                             world-wide attention to the Katmai region.
14 The Novarupta
Continued from page 14
It was as though all the steam engines in
the world, assembled together, had popped
their safety valves at once and were letting
off steam in concert.”

Griggs discovered the Valley of Ten
Thousand Smokes, an amazing 46 mi2
(120 km2) steaming landscape. Later that
night, he found sleep impossible—his
mind restless with thoughts. Griggs later
described himself as “overawed” but he
“had seen enough to know that we had
accidentally discovered one of the great
wonders of the world.”

What to do with such a place? Citing
Yellowstone as an example Griggs
answered, “I recognized at once that
the Katmai district must be made a great
national park accessible to all the people.”
Through the National Geographic Society,
Griggs lobbied for permanent protection
of the Katmai region. Two years after the
discovery of the Valley of Ten Thousand
Smokes, Katmai National Monument was
established by presidential proclamation.

The National Park Service entered its
second century in 2017, but the national
park idea was born long before the
creation of the National Park Service,

                                                                                                                                                                         NPS/M. FITZ
in the minds and actions of citizens. It
lived in the mind of Robert Griggs during
                                                                 Volcanic gas vents, or fumaroles, in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes formed where water became
his explorations of Katmai. He “found”                           superheated by heat trapped within the 1912 ash flow. Today, fossil fumaroles are recognized by their
Katmai and became Katmai’s first modern                          colorful halos. Most of these fumaroles cooled by the late 1920s.
day champion. Robert Griggs’s discovery
of and subsequent efforts to protect the                          Gilbert Grosvenor
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes exemplifies                         Robert Griggs received enthusiastic support
the national park idea. This idea continues                       from Gilbert H. Grosvenor, then President of the
to live in the hearts and minds of                                National Geographic Society, to explore Katmai.
people all over the world. How will you                           Did Grosvenor plant the seeds of the national
#FindYourPark?                                                    park idea in Griggs’s mind?

                                                                  Shortly before Griggs discovered the grandeur
                                                                  of Katmai, Grosvenor discovered the importance
                                                                  of national parks. In 1915, Stephen Mather                                    Gilbert H. Grosvenor
                                                                  invited Grosvenor to the Sierra Nevada in a bid to garner support for the fledgling national
                                                                  park idea. Grosvenor was overwhelmed by the trip and quickly became a staunch supporter of
                                                                  national parks. He helped Mather draft the Organic Act of 1916 which established the National
                                                                  Park Service.
                                                   NPS/B. PLOG

                                                                  Griggs was likely familiar with Grosvenor’s support of national parks since the entire April 1916
                                                                  edition of National Geographic Magazine was devoted to national parks. Grosvenor also fully
Several hundred feet of ash and pumice cover the                  supported Griggs’s efforts to protect Katmai. Today, Grosvenor Camp and Lake Grosvenor bear
Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes near Novarupta.                     his name—a tribute to an influential national park supporter.

                                                                                                                                                     The Novarupta 15
Explore Katmai’s Human History

                                                                                                                                                                NPS/M. HORNER
Katmai Village was once a major center of trade on the Alaska Peninsula. Volcanic unrest forced residents
to flee the area and abandon their homes in June, 1912. This is the village as it looked in 1913.

Learn about Katmai’s People, Past and Present
The Alaska Peninsula may seem like                     The human story of Katmai is also                    Learn about their experiences in Witness:
untouched wilderness, but when you visit               intertwined with the geologic landscape.             First Hand Accounts of the Largest Volcanic
Alagnak, Aniakchak, or Katmai, you are                 In the past, volcanic eruptions disrupted            Eruption in the 20th Century.
following in the footsteps of thousands                and displaced people—even whole
of people. Certain places, like the Brooks             communities on the Alaska Peninsula.                 For more on Katmai’s human history and
River area and Katmai’s Pacific coastline,             The 1912 Novarupta-Katmai eruption                   to download these books go to
have been a bustling hub of human activity             irreparably altered the lives of the people          go.nps.gov/katmaihistory.
for millennia.                                         who called this area home.

People have used the rich resources
available in the Brooks River for
nearly 5,000 years. In Story of a House,
archeologist Don Dumond illuminates this
rich history by recounting the discovery,
excavation, and reconstruction of a semi-
subterranean homesite along Brooks River.

                                                                                                              Katmai’s Heartbeat
                                                                                                              Every spring, the Bristol Bay region bustles
                                                                                                              with activity. After a long winter in dry dock,
                                                                                                              fishing boats are moved into the water and
                                                                                                              working women and men flock to the area.
                                                                                                              Why? Because the salmon will soon arrive.

                                                                                                              Katmai National Park and Preserve and
                                                                                                              Alagnak Wild River protect critical spawning
                                                                                                              and rearing habitat for sockeye and other
                                                                                                              salmon. These fish are the foundation of
                                                                                                              a complex ecological system, and they
                                                                                                              are intricately woven into the cultural and
                                                                                                              economic fabric of the area. Salmon are the
                                                                                                              heartbeat of the ecology, economy, culture,
                                                                                                              and history of the Katmai region.
                                                                                                            NPS

16 The Novarupta
Cycle of the Salmon
                                                                         1

                                                                         USFWS
                                           8
                                                                                                                    2
                                                                                                                S
                                                                                                        F   W
                                                                                                     US

                                                                                                                            3

                             7

                                                                                                                        4
                                            6

                                                                                                                                                    NPS / R. WOOD
                                                                                 USFWS

                                                                                    5

Salmon overcome tremendous obstacles in order to reproduce.
During winter, when the Alaska Peninsula            ocean. Along this journey, they undergo         and other factors may all determine the
is locked under ice and snow, salmon eggs           many physiological changes to prepare           precise timing and pattern of the migration.
incubate quietly in well oxygenated steams          for a saltwater existence. Salmon prepare
and lakes 1 . Months before, adult salmon           to enter a totally new environment, with        Upon returning to freshwater, salmon
struggled against nearly insurmountable             conditions they cannot know until they get      stop eating. 95-99% of spawning salmon
obstacles in order to spawn. Every stage            there. Substantial changes to the kidneys       return to the same lakes, rivers, and streams
in a salmon’s life illustrates their ability to     and gills are required for these fish to        where they were born. They smell their
survive and their drive to reproduce.               survive the harsh transition from freshwater    way upstream following the odors of the
                                                    to the salty ocean.                             water they imprinted upon as fry and smolt.
After incubating, salmon eggs hatch in                                                              Pigments from salmon flesh are transferred
mid-winter. The larva, called alevins 2 ,           Salmon spend one to four years in the           to the skin and eggs. Their bones soften and
remain in the nest feeding on a yolk sac still      ocean 5 , depending on the species.             they develop distinctive humped backs and
attached to their bodies. They may even             Salmon in the ocean are bright and silvery      elongated jaws 7 .
migrate deeper into the stream gravel for           in color to hide them from predators like
protection during this vulnerable period.           orcas, seals, and sharks. In offshore waters,   Female salmon excavate several gravel
                                                    salmon are among the most abundant fish         nests, collectively called a redd. To do
Salmon fry 3 emerge from the gravel                 and use keen eyesight to find and catch         this, she fans the gravel violently with her
between April and June. Most salmon live            prey.                                           tail to winnow away sand and silt which
in freshwater for one to two years while                                                            would smother her eggs. Males and females
feeding on zooplankton. Vertical stripes,           Most salmon are between one and six years       release milt and eggs simultaneously. Up
called parr marks, help camouflage them             old when they begin migrating back to           to 1,000 eggs are laid in each nest. Salmon
from predators.                                     the watersheds where they were born 6 .         spawn across the Alaska Peninsula from
                                                    Sockeye salmon may travel 37 miles (60 km)      midsummer to fall. They die shortly there
Salmon smolt 4 imprint on their natal               or more each day during this long journey.      after, and nutrients from their decaying
streams and lakes while migrating to the            Water temperature, ocean currents, day          bodies drive the cycle once again 8 .
                                                    length, the earth’s magnetic field, genetics,
                                                                                                                                The Novarupta 17
Gone Fishing?

Fishing in the Katmai Region
A visit to Alagnak and Katmai offers                surprisingly quiet and difficult to see in dense   A short video, Letting Go: The Art of Catch and
tremendous fishing opportunities for                grass or tall brush, so always have someone        Release, is available to watch online at
rainbow trout, arctic char, grayling, and           spot bears for you. At minimum, keep 50 yards      https://youtu.be/snKzEskc_OY and in the
salmon. Katmai’s runs of salmon, in                 between yourself and all bears. Stop fishing       Brooks Camp Visitor Center. This video, written
                                                    and move away well before a bear approaches        and produced by experienced local fishing
particular, also support some of the greatest
                                                    within 50 yards, or you may find yourself in a     guides, succinctly highlights proper catch and
gatherings of brown bears on earth. No
                                                    situation with a fish on the line and a bear in    release techniques.
matter when or where you choose to fish,
                                                    pursuit.
extra care and responsibility are necessary
                                                                                                       Regulations
to protect people, wildlife, and the                Catch and Release Ethics                           Fishing in Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak
experience.                                         Many areas in the Katmai region experience         is subject to Alaska Department of Fish and
                                                    heavy fishing pressure each year. Fish are often   Game (ADF&G) regulations and restrictions.
Fishing Around Bears
                                                    caught multiple times per season. Therefore,       Additional federal regulations apply to Brooks
When salmon spawning activity peaks in a
                                                    anglers must release fish as quickly and gently    River. Alaska state fishing licenses are required.
stream, bears and anglers compete for the
                                                    as possible to ensure their continued survival.    For more fishing information, ask a park ranger
same resources. Expect to spend more time out
                                                                                                       or visit the ADF&G website at www.adfg.state.
of the water than in, and be prepared to give
                                                    Avoid playing a fish to exhaustion. As a fish is   ak.us/.
up your fishing hole to a bear at some time
                                                    landed, keep it in the water when removing
during your trip.
                                                    the hook. Fish can quickly suffocate when
                                                    removed from water, especially after battling
Splashing fish sound like food to bears. Bears
                                                    the forces of rod and reel. Use barbless hooks
will often move in your direction to investigate
                                                    as much as possible. They are easier to remove
a fish on a line. Always be prepared to cut or
                                                    and less injurious to fish.
break your fishing line, so that you can free the
fish and move out of the water until the bear
                                                    The slime on fish helps to protect it from
passes. Never let a bear acquire a fish from
                                                    disease and parasites. Handling a fish roughly,
you.
                                                    with dry hands, or dragging it onto the shore
                                                    removes this slime and reduces its chances for
It is easy to become so engaged in fishing
                                                    survival.
that you forget to be alert for bears. They are

                                                                                                                                                            NPS/ROY WOOD

18 The Novarupta
Photographing a Wild Heritage

                                                                       • Learn the rules and laws of the                        them in engaging in inappropriate
                                                                         location. If minimum distances exist for               or harmful behavior. Many people
                                                                         approaching wildlife, follow them.                     unknowingly endanger themselves and
                                                                       • In the absence of management authority,                animals.
                                                                         use good judgment. Treat the wildlife,               • Report inappropriate behavior to proper
                                                                         plants and places as if you were their                 authorities. Don’t argue with those who
You are encouraged to enjoy Katmai’s wildlife,                           guest.                                                 don’t care; report them.
but please do it with respect and care. National                       • Prepare yourself and your equipment                  • Be a good role model, both as a
parks are symbols of our wild heritage. The                              for unexpected events. Avoid exposing                  photographer and a citizen. Educate
forethought of past generations has given                                yourself and others to preventable                     others by your actions; enhance their
us the special places we enjoy today. Help                               mishaps.                                               understanding.
protect and preserve the natural wonders of
Katmai, Aniakchak, and the Alagnak for the                             Individual: Expertise and Responsibility              This copyrighted information has been
future by maintaining standards of ethical                              • Treat others courteously. Ask before               reprinted with permission from the North
photography—it’s up to each of us.                                        joining others already shooting in an              American Nature Photography Association. For
                                                                          area.                                              more information, please visit www.nanpa.org.
The North American Nature Photography                                   • Tactfully inform others if you observe
Association (NANPA) encourages adherence
to the following Principles of Ethical Field
Practices:

Environment: Knowledge of Subject and
Place
• Learn patterns of animal behaviors so as
  not to interfere with animal life cycles.
• Do not distress wildlife or their habitat.
  Respect the routine needs of animals.
• Use appropriate lenses to photograph
  wild animals. If an animal shows stress,
  move back and use a longer lens.
• Acquaint yourself with the fragility of
  the ecosystem. Stay on trails that are
  intended to lessen impact.

Social: Knowledge of Rules and Laws

                                                                                                                                                                                    NPS/M. FITZ
• When appropriate, inform managers
  or other authorities of your presence
                                                                       If people behave consistently, then animals may learn to behave consistently around people. Your potential
  and purpose. Help minimize cumulative
                                                                       impact on animals can be minimized by photographing from predictable places like the wildlife viewing
  impacts and maintain safety.                                         platforms at Brooks Camp.

    Katmai’s Abundent Wildlife
                                                                       Katmai was designated a National Monument             regions, dense spruce forests, rolling tundra, a
                                                                       in 1918 to preserve features associated with          variety of water features and nearly 500 miles
                                                                       one of the most powerful volcanic eruptions           of coastline. While bears tend to dominate
                                                                       ever recorded. However, later expansions and          the animal conversation, the varied landscape
                                                                       the change in status to Katmai did not focus on       provides habitat for a whole host of wildlife.
                                                                       geologic activity but rather on the importance
                                                                       of wildlife. Today, one of the primary purposes       From coast to tundra, Katmai is one of the
                                                      NPS/M.BRADBURN

                                                                       of Katmai National Park and Preserve is to            best areas in North America to watch birds,
                                                                       protect habitats for and populations of fish,         especially during the spring migratory and
                                                                       brown bears, and other wildlife.                      summer breeding seasons. Fish from salmon to
While little is known about Katmai’s wolf                                                                                    sculpin are a crucial part of Katmai’s ecosystem
population, wolves have been seen throughout the                       Katmai encompasses 4.1 million acres of               and over 40 mammals call the park home.
park; along the coast hunting sea otter and harbors
seals, and in Brooks Camp fishing alongside bears.
                                                                       pristine land that includes mountainous               What will you see on a visit to Katmai?

                                                                                                                                                           The Novarupta 19
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