Watch & Trends 2019 - The TOP 20 of Scientifics & Ingredients Axes not to be missed - Easy-Innovation
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C osmetic
Watch & Trends
2019
The TOP 20 of
Scientifics & Ingredients
Axes not to be missed
Régine FRICK
INNOVATION & VISION
Marion SERRE
«A Dual Expertise on today’s current events for a vision of
tomorrow»
«An analysis of key cosmetic events & research.»
In cosmetics, Cosmetic 360 , IFSCC, Jean Paul Marty’s days,
CED’s congres, Lipids & Cosmetics, Plant Based Summit,
Biomimexpo, CosmeticsDays Essential Oils
92 pages
35 References
28 Graphic Summaries
9 Trade Fairs & Congresses
I am a chemical engineer and is graduate in innovation management,
culture and marketing at the CNAM.
I have 12 years of experience in research and development at
Chanel Parfum Beauté and I have been a consultant from 2010
in my three main areas of interest : communication, innovation and
development for the cosmetics industry.
My professional career in the industry has the specificity of having addressed
the entire product launch process from product control to innovation on
skin care products through the development and a knowledge of cosmetic
Régine Frick raw materials.
Cosmetic Watch
Scientific Journalist I have used the experimental designs processes to respond to the
objectives with rigour and speed.
Today, I visit scientific fairs, seminars and conferences. I prospect and
synthesize information for you with the wish be clear and accessible
to all.
«We are here to make your innovations a success»
I have 15 years of experience in cosmetic and perfume research
and development in multicultural and international environments.
I am an innovation and graphic facilitator.
After completing my Master’s degree in Formulation Chemistry in
Lille, I worked in research and development for international groups such
as COTY and Oriflame, as well as for a family company with its own
brands. Thanks to a 360° vision, I have developed a solid network to work
with subcontractors and quality suppliers.
Today, I support my customers in the scientific development of
ingredients, products and services. I encourage exchanges and
ideas. I highlight the strengths and innovations of my customers. Marion Serre
Innovation Management
I use my field expertise and various visual thinking tools, including Graphic Recorder
graphic facilitation. I capture strategic meetings and seminars to
effectively summarize ideas and help put them into action. I enjoy
leading co-creative workshops to promote innovation at the heart of
companies.
Our Offers for Cosmetic Watch & trends 2019 : • Scientific axes • Ingredients axes • Scientific & Ingredients axes Work in Progress : • Biological target axes • Objectification test axes We can go further with: • A 2:30 co-creation meeting at your offices based on the cosmetic watch & trends.
Underlying scientifics trends
AROUND BACTERIA
O ver the past ten years, the number of scientific studies on the microbiota, especially in the field of
intestine has explosed. Cosmetics has been interested in this theme for 4-5 years and every year
new data is shared and new products and ingredients have been launched.
T he subject .is complex because of the variety of the cutaneous microbiota, the difficulty of having
repeatable samples, the need of important sequencing tools. The subject is also difficult to address.
Should we preserve the bacteria on the skin whereas some cosmetic products have harmful effects on
bacteria ? How could we work on microbial homeostasis knowing that each individual has his own
microbial flora? How do we integrate good bacteria into products and be sure of their viability ? The
subject is also global due to the importance of intestinal microbiota on health and certainly on skin. We
are at the beginning of a long term subject.
The latest studies on skin microbiota
• An article published in Nature in january 2018 (1) demonstrates the need to take into account all
interactions that occur in the cutaneous ecosystem : fungi, viruses, bacteria. These interractions are
highly dependent on genetic context, on skin barrier, on immune system and on location of the
microbes
• A study published in february 2018 (2) highlighted that the composition of intestinal microbiota for
psoriasis patients is very different from that of healthy patients. The link between intestinal
microbiota and skin condition is beginning to be demonstrated.
• Cosmax (3) has highlighted the bacterial strain Streptococcus genus which plays a key role in skin
balance. People with atopic skin have a low rate of this strain as well as people over 50 years old.
Cosmax has introduced the term Streptology as a new anti-aging action.
• Silab (4) has conducted an original study on healthy skin microbiota. Silab has compared the
composition of the microbiota of 17 menopausal women and 17 28 years old women. The study
shows that with age there is an increase in the number of proteobacteria, an increase in
corynebacteria, a decrease in actinobacteria, a decrease in propioniobacteria. The Ph of the skin
increases, there is also a decrease in sebum level . The local innate immunity is modified with a
lower production of antimicrobial peptides.Underlying scientifics trends
More and more cosmetics actors are involved on this subject
• Givaudan has a lead on this subject thanks to his in-house metagenomic plateform. Givaudan
strengthens these activites by investments at the Toulouse site by 2020. In 2017, Givaudan
launched the perfume concept [Yu] with the active ingredient Revivyl. Revivyl is designed to protect
microbiota. Givaudan works on products with a high percentage of fragrances in which it adds
active ingredients to produce active fragrances.
• Silab which had not yet been an actor in this field has just announced ( at the end of march 2018)
the implementation of its microbiota platform . Silab aims to address the subject in a transversal
way. The biotechnology cluster will work on plant ecosystems. The molecular biology cluster will
decode the imbalances of cutaneous microbiota under stress or aging conditions. The
microbiology cluster will create and develop a cutaneous bacteria strain library specific to Silab. For
In Cosmetics 2018, Silab has presented an innovative concept that consists of using the flower
nectar microbiota, the Nectarobiota® to regulate the skin microbiota. It is also possible to find
microbiota of plants in the stems, flower and roots. The microbiota regulates the plant ecosystem.
D uring In Cosmetics 2018, the theme of microbiota was present with several launches on this
subject along 3 axes :
• The right nutrients to balance the microbiome. Some products are objectified through studies in
metagenomics and the determination of the microbial biodiversity index : the Shannon index
• The action of probiotics for Evonick with Skinbalance, for Greentech with Biotylis and Lactophyt but
without metagenomics objectivation.
• Action on the innate immunity of the skin and TLR (Toll like receptor) receptors with Seppic
Equibiome but no metagenomics objectvation was done.
T he right nutrients to balance the microbiome have been put forward by several companies with very
sophisticated concepts :
• Lipotec with Fensebiome, a synthetic heptapeptide that boosts microbial diversity (in vivo
metagenomic test on 21 women). Shannon’s index is increased (diversity index). The composition
of the microbiota is also modified with 21% firmicutes, +5.8% actinobactenria, +15.2%
proteobacteria. In vivo tests show a better cell cohesion with in particular the synthesis of boosted
long-chain lipids, decreased desquamation and an enhanced barrier effect. In vitro transcriptomic
tests on the activation of immune responses on genes associated with tight junctions complete the
results.Underlying scientifics trends
• Rahn with Seboclear Mp, an extract of Maclura cochinchinensis leaves that grows in the forests of
Southeast Asia. It is very rich in prenylated isoflavones that allow the plant to defend itself from
pathogens. The active ingredient acts on the four factors associated with the developemnt of acne
and helps to break the vicious circle of acne. The active is objectivated in vitro on the growth of
different strains but also in vivo with the measurement of the microbial biodiversity index. The in
vivo test was conducted on 3 subjecys and shows 73% increase in microbial biodiversity.
• Silab avec Ecobiotys from porcelain flower, a very nectariferous plant in which the yeast
Metschnikowia reukaufii has been isolated and used as a raw material for the development of the
active ingredient. The active ingredient regulates the microbiota of mature skin by acting on the
distribution of bacterial communities. It reduces the Corynebacterium community, restores the
functionalities of the immune and mechanical barriers of the skin. The quality of the skin is
improved, the radiance of the complexion is enhanced.
Living bacteria available in some markets
S elling live bacteria is not allowed by European regulations but some players offer specifics solutions
to american market such as AOBiome or in a specific shape such as Uption.
• AOBiome : les tests cliniques de phase 2a sur leur bactérie (ammonia oxidizing bacteria) a montré
une bonne tolérance de leur bactérie et les tests de phase 2b des effets positifs dans le traitement
de l’acné. AOBiome souhaite continuer à défendre sa place de leader dans l’utilisation de bactéries
vivantes pour soigner des pathologies comme l’acné mais aussi d’autres pathologies.Underlying scientifics trends
• Uption (entreprise Luxembourgeoise) propose
des probiotiques vivants délivrés sous forme
anhydre grâce à l’intercalation dans des feuil-
lets d’argile (phyllosilicates). Une fois en con-
tact avec l’eau de la peau, ils deviennent vi-
vants et efficaces. Il utilise la technologie Fra-
metime d’Ephylla pour l’encapsulation de
leurs probiotiques.
AND TOMORROW
I l est certain que la thématique microbiote va perdurer, de nombreuses découvertes sont à faire
notamment par rapport à la peau. Le futur de la thématique microbiote peut aussi être en lien avec la
phagothérapie. Les phages sont les propres virus des bactéries qui peuvent servir à lutter contre des
bactéries résistantes en remplacement des antibiotiques devenus résistants aux bactéries. On parle
alors de phagothérapie, c’est une médecine utilisée il y a longtemps et dont la recherche reprend len-
tement avec en France des sociétés comme Pherecydes Pharma http://fr.pherecydes-pharma.com . Au
niveau de la peau, des études sont menées sur l’acné par une équipe de l’université du Cape en Afrique
du Sud.
RÉFÉRENCES
(1) https://www.nature.com/articles/nature25177
(2)https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5830498/
(3) Ifscc 2017 http://www.iloveweb.kr/IFSCC2017/file/Full_paper/Full%20Paper%20P-020.pdf
(4) Study presented à In cosmetics 2018Underlying scientifics trends KEY POINTS :
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