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A Taste
of
Japan
The 3 ‘R’s to good eating –
Restaurants,
Reviews & Recipes
8-page pullout
STRIPES JAPAN STE OF JAPAN DECEMBER 17 – DECEMBER 23, 2021
A TA 2
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DECEMBER 17 – DECEMBER 23, 2021 STE OF JAPAN STRIPES JAPAN
A TA 3
quat dis h sy m bol
n kum d fort une
ol e
d oney, g oo
G of m menu item for the New Year’s meal.
Try the recipe below, adapted from
the Japanese Consumers’ Co-oper-
ative Union. With just a few simple
steps to follow, this would arguably
STORY AND PHOTOS BY SHOJI KUDAKA, be one of the easiest Japanese New
STRIPES JAPAN
Year foods that you can make on your
N
own.
ow that we’ve taken care of The only daunting part of the en- Kinkan-no-kanroni (stewed kumquat)
the happiness portion of the tire recipe is removing the seeds.
New Year food courses with However, for 30 pieces of kinkan, I *For a family of four, this recipe should be enough for a few servings per person.
burdock, it’s time to summon money was able to complete this task in 10 INGREDIENTS toothpick to bring the
with kumquats! minutes by making small slits on the n Kinkan (kumquat) 30 pieces seeds up and out. Be
In Japan, this tiny citrus fruit delicate skin and using a toothpick n Water 450cc sure to remove stem
is called kinkan and forms part of to pry out the seeds with a little pa- n Sugar 135cc ends as well.
the Osechi Ryori because the name tience. n Mirin (sweet cooking rice wine) 22.5cc
in kanji is either “金柑” or “金冠”, 5. Heat 450cc of water,
From start to finish, it took me
which means “gold tangerine” and about 90 minutes. Though it is a bit 135cc of sugar, 22.5cc
RECIPE of Mirin (sweet cook-
“gold crown” respectively. In China, longer than I usually spend on cook-
1. Rinse and wash off ing rice wine) in a
where the fruit originated, its name ing, the end result was totally worth
kinkan with water. deep pan on a medi-
is “金桔 (jin jié)”, meaning “wealth” it. The heavenly scent of the kinkan,
2. Put kinkan in a deep
and “good luck”, according to the sugar and mirin will entice you to um-high heat for a few
pot with water and
Japan Weather Association.
iew Video! give it a little taste, but just minutes.
Besides the prospect of V be careful not to burn your-
place over high heat.
6. Add kinkan to the mix-
more wealth, kumquats (Make sure there’s
self. ture and slowly heat it
are delicious and delicately enough water to
Another good pointer to on a medium heat, un-
sweet! They can be eaten raw know is that this can be cooked cover the kinkan. Stop
heating just before til the tangerine starts
but for the New Year, we have in a big batch and stored much
the water is boiled.) to glisten and soften.
it in kanroni, which stews like you would marmalade or
3. Drain water and take 7. Serve on small plates
kumquat with sugar and mirin sweet jelly. Refrigerated in a jar or airtight
cooking rice wine. The cooking pro- container, the kanroni will last about kinkan out of the pan. cold (you can also en-
cess brings up a distinct sweetness six months to a year. Let them cool. joy this dish warm if
and fruitiness with a marmalade-like So, add this sweet dish to your 4. Once cool enough you let it cool a little
consistency. New Year’s lineup and see if it brings to hold, remove the after cooking). Bon ap-
Commonly called kinkan-no- you good luck and wealth in 2022! seeds. Do this by making about six vertical slits petite and good luck
kanroni, stewed kinkan is a regular kudaka.shoji@stripes.com on each kinkan with a kitchen knife and using a in the New Year!
ou-no-nikumaki for a lucky new year
gob
Try
STORY AND PHOTOS BY SHOJI KUDAKA,
Gunboumaki (Okinawan style roll of pork,
burdock, and carrot)
STRIPES JAPAN
*For four people
I
n Japan, every New Year we eat INGREDIENTS
a variety of foods which form part n (Sliced) Pork loin 600g
of the Osechi Ryori (or New Year’s n Burdock 220g
foods) meant to bring us good luck, n Carrot 450g
health and happiness. Goubou-no-niku- n Water 600cc
maki, a rolled slice of beef with burdock n Sugar 100 cc
root at the center, is one of the popular n Liquor (cooking sake) 100 cc
dishes in the Osechi lineup. n Soy sauce 67cc
Burdock is a reminder of the grain har- n Salt (a little)
vest because it’s black and elongated ap- but once the prep n Mirin/sweet cooking rice wine
pearance resembles the Japanese crane, work was done, the rest of
(a little)
which comes flying when a rich harvest is the cooking went smoothly.
gathered. The rolled dish includes burdock As the rolls simmered in a broth of sugar, RECIPE
because it is eaten with the hope that hap- cooking sake and mirin sweet cooking rice 1. Rinse and wash off burdock, then peel skins. Rinse carrots.
piness will last long like burdock grows. wine, the delicious scent spread through- 2. Slice burdock and carrots into small pieces. Make sure each piece
Depending on where you’re celebrat- out the kitchen. I couldn’t resist giving one will match the width of sliced pork.
ing the New Year, burdock and meat rolls a try before they were fully cooked. One 3. Boil sliced burdock and carrot in hot water for about 3 minutes
have a different name. On the mainland, bite and the savory juices exploded over each.
it’s called yawatamaki, after Yawata City my taste buds. The well-seasoned and ten- 4. Roll burdock and carrot with one (or two) slice of pork loin. (You
in Kyoto Pref. On Okinawa, not only
is its name different – it’s called Vie
w Video! derwonder
ingredients were delectable — no
this is also a popular item
can use a toothpick to secure the rolls if necessary)
5. Place the rolls in a deep pan. then add 100cc water to cover the
Gunboumaki — but, so is its sec- for kids’ bento boxes year-round. rolls and boil for 5 minutes.
ondary ingredient – pork instead This is a great option or those eas- 6. After the initial cooking process, add 500cc of water, 100cc of
of beef. ing into Japanese cuisine, plus the cooking sake, 100cc of sugar, 67cc of soy sauce to the pan.
Just recently, I had a chance to veggies and pork or beef are a good Loosely put a lid on the pot and lower the heat and simmer
try the Okinawan version following source of nutrients. between 30 minutes to 1 hour.
a recipe I found in an old cookbook Cornbread, peas, soba, mochi and 7. Add soy sauce, mirin/sweet cooking rice wine, and condiment
at home. I happened to also have carrots beans are also popular ingredients used in to perfect the flavor to your taste. (You can do this in step No. 6
on hand, so I modified the recipe to include New Year’s dishes. But, make sure to in- as well before simmering)
them. The recipe was simple enough even clude some burdock, carrots and pork or 8. Once they’re tender, remove them from the pan and slice into E
for a first-timer like me. The only challenge beef for good health and good luck in 2022!
MOR
SEE EN SOBA
bite-sized pieces. Enjoy!
was peeling the skins of the burdock roots, kudaka.shoji@stripes.com
EBI T
N PAGE
6
O
STRIPES JAPAN STE OF JAPAN DECEMBER 17 – DECEMBER 23, 2021
A TA 4
Taste 2022 the right way
STRIPES JAPAN pleasing to the eye as they are the pal-
ate. I can’t say that I liked them all as
Okinawa prefectural government. “But
ever since Okinawa was returned to Ja-
is not a tradi-
N
tional ingredient in nakamijiru,
ew Year’s is Japan’s biggest a child. But these days, I find that their pan (in 1972), New Year’s foods have nowadays it may be added to this
and longest holiday. People traditional meanings as well as the caught on. Nowadays, many people eat Okinawan dish just like ozoni. It’s
take Dec. 29 through Jan. 3 off childhood memories they bring back Okinawan and Japanese foods for New tasty but be careful.
from work to celebrate the first three make this a feast that I look forward to Year’s.” “There have been cases when peo-
days of the year praying at temples and all year long. Local dishes you should be on the ple, especially the elderly and small
shrines for the coming year. It is our You could say that, traditionally, the lookout for in restaurants include children, have severely choked on this
Christmas and Thanksgiving – a time to feast really begins on New Year’s Eve, “rafute” (pork belly), “taamu” (taro) densely chewy treat. So watch out when
relax with family and friends over spe- or “Oomisoka.”On this day, it is custom- and“inamuruchi” (white miso soup you eat mochi for the first time. But
cial foods and sake. ary for Japanese to clean house to bring with chopped pork). While at the same once you try really good ozoni, you will
When I was a child, every year my good fortune in the coming year. (OK, time, stores across the island will have be obsessed with the awesome taste.
family would go to my grandfather’s this part is not a fond memory; I always traditional Japanese New Year’s fare This is, by far, my favorite New Year’s
house in the Oita countryside to cel- wanted to play with my friends while on offer. dish. Then there is osechi, which liter-
ebrate New Year’s with relatives. It my mom made me clean my room.) The first quarter or half of January ally means beginning a new season and
was an important time of year when we Then we eat “toshikoshi,” or passing- is commonly called “oshogatsu.” It re- represents the start of the new year.
enjoyed a traditional New Year’s feast year, soba noodles at night. fers to the whole month of January as This is a set of selected dishes. It’s kind
around the “kotatsu,” a low table with a According to tradition, we eat long well. Plus, the first three days of the of like a fancy bento box for the entire
heater underneath to keep thin noodles in hopes of a long healthy month are called “sanganichi” During family that is eaten during sanganichi,
us warm and cozy. life for the whole family in the those days,“ozoni” and “osechi” are sometimes for all three meals.”
There are tradi- coming year. Some people eat the main dishes on a typical Japanese They are designed to nourish and
tional Japanese homemade soba or, on Oki- family’s table. Ozoni is a clear soup that wish the family well, while expressing
foods to ring in nawa, Okinawan soba; contains “mochi,” a glutinous rice cake; thanks for the new year. The foods are
the new year others eat a cup of in- fish cake; chicken; leafy greens; car- beautifully arranged in a “juubako,”
that are as stant soba noodles. rots; shiitake mushrooms; and maybe which is traditional lacquered food box
It does not matter, more. with three or four tiers.
Ozoni as long as it is soba The soup stock varies from region Osechi consists of foods that can be
noodles. to region. In most of mainland Japan it prepared in advance and keep for a
If you are lucky may be flavored with seaweed or “boni- few days without spoiling. Tradition-
enough to be in to” (dried fish flakes). People make mi- ally, it ensured everyone got a three-
Okinawa for New so-based ozoni in western regions like day break, even mothers and wives who
Year’s you’ll find Kansai. In Okinawa, instead of ozoni, wouldn’t have to cook and wash dishes.
elements of two people eat “nakamijiru,” a soup made Also, most stores and restaurants used
culinary traditions with chitterlings. to be closed during oshogatsu.
to sample. Because From ancient times, mochi has been These days, some stores open Jan.
of its Ryukyu King- a celebratory food in Japan represent- 1 because business can be good. It is
dom history, Japan’s ing fortune. Today, you can still see it at believed that osechi started during the
southernmost islands traditional events and elsewhere in the Edo Period (1603-1867) when coming
have their own indig- form of white, stacked, circular cakes up with a variety prepared foods that
enous dishes as well as (or packaged squares at grocers) – es- would keep for three days was a pretty
those from mainland Japan. pecially this time of year. You’ll also see amazing feat.
“In Okinawa, families gathered to a lot of mochi pounding events where For those who don’t have a lot time
celebrate New Year’s with special foods large mallets are used to or desire to prepare osechi, you can
that were served at ceremonies and pound steamed rice order them from companies at
feast year round, not just foods for New into mochi. Al- supermarkets and online.
Year’s,” says Yayoi Kohagura, of the though mochi You can even order one at
Kurikinton
Nishikitamago Kazunoko
Kombumaki
Get to know your‘o
STRIPES JAPAN loose. They are marinated in a broth
O
of bonito soup stock, sake and soy
h
More ohseesc
sechi is a decorative set sauce. You can often find them at
of dishes eaten on New
Year’s. Each traditional
sushi restaurants. dis
Kuromame (sweet simmered
Japanese dish has a special meaning,
black beans) is soft and sweet. You
expressing well-wishing for the coming
year. These osechi can be found at depart- may also notice a bit of soy sauce flavor-
ment stores or supermarkets. Here are some of ing. Kuromame represents good health
the classic dishes. and diligent work.
Kazunoko (herring roe) are tiny yellow fish eggs. Tazukuri are small sardines that have
The many eggs signify prosperity for your descen- been dried and cooked in a sweet sauce
dants. The texture is chunky and the eggs are not of sugar, sweet rice wine, soy sauce and
DECEMBER 17 – DECEMBER 23, 2021 STE OF JAPAN STRIPES JAPAN
A TA 5
Okin a w a n d e l ic a c ie s
Nakamijiru as nakami pieces.
2. Put konnnyaku into boiling water and
(pork guts soup) cook it for 2-3 minutes and slice them.
3. In a bowl, put wet nakami with water
and add flour. Rub nakami with flour
Nakamijiru is popularly known as and rinse with running water. Repeat
l celebration food from Ryukyu King- 2 to 3 times until nakami to take out
s dom. The key of cooking this soup is the grease.
n you need to prepare well to take out 4. Put nakami into boiling water and
t the smell of pork guts. The soup taste cook for 20 mins. Change into fresh
l simple yet rich. boiling water and cook for 20 mins.
Osechi Photo courtesy of Kibun Foods Inc.
. Repeat three times. This is to take out
s Ingredients for 4 servings: the smell of guts.
- the nearest convenience store and pick bland vegetable dishes and I would • 10.6 oz pork intestines and stomach or 5. When nakami is soft, drain the wa-
d nakami ter. Slice nakami into 5-6 cm by 1 cm
it up. There is a wide variety available, have preferred something like steak or
r. • 3.5 oz konnyaku pieces. Boil nakami pieces in a sauce
including traditional Japanese as well fried chicken. I was also not too thrilled
d • 4 dried shiitake mushrooms pan again. Drain and dry nakami in a
as Chinese, Western and even Disney- about eating the same food for a couple
e • 4 cups bonito flake soup stock bamboo basket or strainer.
themed osechi. Prices range is from the days. But times, and I, have change.
, • 2 tbs salt 6. In a pot, boil dashi (bonito flake soup
equivalent of about $150 to $200 for a Now I really enjoy and appreciate os-
• small soy sauce stock). Add nakami, shiitake mush-
three- to four-person osechi. echi. It comes from the wisdom of my
d • small grated ginger rooms and konnyaku. Mix soy sauce
“This traditional Japanese food was ancestors. The colors and designs of
g • flour and salt. Simmer in low heat for 10
recognized on UNESCO’s Intangible each dish are works of art with mean-
e minutes.
Cultural Heritage list in 2013,” says Fu- ings intended to bring good fortune in
” 1. Soak shiitake mushrooms into water 7. Serve in a Japanese soup bowl with
mitoshi Kumagai, a spokesperson for the coming new year. I guess my sense
x until soft. Slice them to the same size grated ginger to taste.
osechi maker Kibun Foods Inc. “Since of taste has grown – grown for a taste
then people have been paying more at- of Okinawa.
e
tention to traditional osechi. So they are
a
quite popular this year. But char-
-
acter-themed osechi such as
-
Disney are also popular
o
with families who have
.
small children.”
d
It’s too bad they
didn’ t have those
.
fancy kiddy os-
s
echi when I
e
was growing
g
up. Honestly,
t
I was not a big
y
fan of osechi as
a child because a
e
n
lot of the traditional
foods were kind of
Kubuirichi” • 4 tbs mirin
• 4 tbs sake
t
.
(stir-fried seaweed) • 6 tbs soy sauce
• 4 cups of bonito flake soup stock
t Toshikoshi soba Okinawa is one of the most sea-
weed consumption prefectures in 1. Rinse seaweed with running water,
Japan. Okinawans loved seaweed wipe with kitchen towel and slice it
from long time ago. The combina- about 1.1 inch width. Boil the sea-
tion of seaweed and pork makes weed for a minute and take it out.
Kuromame very rich flavor. Seaweed contains 2. Soak shiitake mushrooms into water
lots of dietary fiber which helps to until soft. Cut into pieces.
clean intestine system. 3. Put konnnyaku into boiling water and
cook it for 2-3 minutes and slice them.
Ingredients for 4 servings: 4. Cut fishcakes into pieces about half
• 0.44 lb seaweed inch width.
• 1.25 lb pork belly 5. Cut pork belly into pieces. Put oil
• 7 dried shiitake mushrooms into frying pan and cook pork until
• 0.44 lb konnyaku cooked.
osechi’ dishes
• 0.22 lb fishcake 6. And then add konnyaku, seaweed
and shiitake mushrooms and stir fry.
(Sauce) 7. Add sauce and cook with low heat for
• 4 tbs sugar 20 mins.
sake. These are rich in calcium. Tazukuri repre-
sents praying for a large catch and a good harvest.
hi Don’t be afraid to eat the head!
Kombumaki or Kobumaki is kelp roll Tazukuri
and stuffed with salmon or chicken,
which has been cooked in a
sweet soy sauce-based sauce.
The name of kobumaki is a
play on words, which mean
joy in Japanese, so it’s eaten
for good luck food during
New Year’s.
STRIPES JAPAN STE OF JAPAN DECEMBER 17 – DECEMBER 23, 2021
A TA 6
ye ar w it h soba
ing up v ity
r p
ap bring l on ge
W id to
Ebi ten soba
(Soba noodles with shrimp tempura)
saSTORY AND PHOTOS BY SHOJI KUDAKA,
*For two people
INGREDIENTS
n Shrimp (x 2)
n Salt (a little)
STRIPES JAPAN
n Soft flour (15cc)
T
n Beaten egg (15cc)
oshikoshi soba (year-crossing soba n Coldwater (100cc)
noodles) is a traditional food that n Soft flour (for tempura batter, 100cc)
many Japanese eat every year on n Naganegi (shallot, 4cm or 1.57inches)
December 31. 1. Eating soba noodles to n Soba noodles (240g)
mark the end of the year is a custom be- n Water (600cc)
lieved to have been established around n Soy sauce (45cc)
the Edo Period (1603 – 1868).). n Mirin (sweet cooking rice wine, 30cc)
There are many theories surrounding n Dashi (stock powder, a little more than 5cc)
how or why the noodles became a part of n Salt (for broth, 1.25cc)
the year-end ritual. According to the Ni- n Salad oil (for frying tempura, appropriate amount)
hon Menruigyo Dantai Rengokai, an as-
sociation of noodle makers in Japan, the
most common theory involves the belief
that the thin and long shape of soba noo-
dles represents the hope for longevity and RECIPE
good luck. PREPARATION
Other theories include the breaking of 1. Peel the shell off shrimp except for the closest portion to the
bad cycles of struggle, misfortune, and restaurants on Okinawa have Japanese- tail. Devein the shrimp. Slit the tip of the tail diagonally and
debt because soba noodles are easy to cut. style soba on their menu, so check those squeeze out water.
Or, another is that the noodles could bring out. Or, better yet, you can cook your own 2. Slit the stomach of the shrimp a few times and bend back-
in gold since in the old days craftsmen at home! ward and straighten them by stretching the slitted portion.
utilized buckwheat flour, the main ingre- Try this simple recipe and have fun Wipe water off the shrimp and sprinkle salt and flour on
dient of soba noodles, to gather scattered choosing the toppings to make it your them.
gold foil. own. This was my first time trying to cook 3. Chop naganegi (shallot) finely and drain the slices.
No matter what kind of luck it brings or Japanese-style soba noodles, but it turned
which of the theories you subscribe to, out great. The soy-sauce based COOKING INSTRUCTIONS
soba noodles are a quintessential iew Video! broth and the smooth texture of 1. Mix beaten egg and cold water in a bowl. Add flour and mix
portion of the New Year celebra- V them together to prepare tempura batter.
the noodles went well together.
tions in Japan and well worth a try. 2. Heat salad oil in a pan to 160℃ (320℉). Holding the
The shrimp tempura and shi-
If you live in mainland Japan, you shrimp’s tail, dip into the batter, then transfer to heated oil.
chimi togarashi (seven-spice chili
will not have trouble finding a good (Make sure its tail is not soaked in the batter.)
soba restaurant. For those who live pepper) I used as toppings added a
nice punch of flavor. 3. Sprinkle additional batter on top of the shrimp and fry for
in Okinawa, however, it will be a dif- about 3 minutes. Take it out and drain excess oil.
ferent story. My soba noodles and broth were so
4. To prepare a broth, put water (600cc), soy sauce (45cc), mi-
On the subtropical island, Okinawa good, I am now wondering whether I rin (sweet cooking rice wine, 30cc), dashi (stock powder, a
soba noodles, made from flour not buck- should go with Japanese-style or my usu- little more than 5cc), and salt (for broth, 1.25cc) in a pan,
wheat, are what you’ll find at local restau- al Okinawa-style soba noodles for Dec. 31. and heat the mixture.
rants. Although there are some eateries This will be a difficult choice, but either 5. In a separate pot, bring water to a boil. Add the soba noo-
dedicated to the Japanese-style buck- way, I am on track for eating a lot of soba dles and let it simmer until the noodles are cooked through
wheat soba noodles, finding those spots noodles to bring luck for 2022. (about 1-2 minutes for raw noodles, and 3-4 minutes for
is a bit of a challenge. But many family kudaka.shoji@stripes.com dried noodles/see note below). Then, turn off the heat and
strain out the water.
RASHI 6. Portion out your noodles into a bowl and pour the broth
SHICHIMI TOGA “Shichimi” literally means “seven flavor chili over.
pepper.” This mixed spice consists of red chili 7. Top with shrimp tempura and other toppings to your prefer-
pepper and six other ingredients. ence.
n Red Chili Pepper n Sansho Pepper
n Nori
*For convenience, I utilized preprocessed shrimp and skipped
n Black Sesame Seeds seaweed
n Perilla Seeds
preparations 1 and 2.
n White Sesame Seeds
n Hemp Seed
* Regarding step 5, boiling time depends on how soft or hard
n Dried Ginger
you want your soba noodles to be. The longer you boil the
n Dried Orange peel
noodles, the softer they become just like pasta. I boiled the
You can make the taste better by sprinkling noodles for 5 to 7 minutes.
this on soba noodles. Shichimi is available in *Recipe adapted from Ajinomoto (https://park.ajinomoto.
grocery stores. co.jp/recipe/card/705786/), a major food company in Ja-
pan.
DECEMBER 17 – DECEMBER 23, 2021 STE OF JAPAN STRIPES JAPAN
A TA 7
It tastes as good
as it sounds
Beginning with an Eric Clapton guitar, Hard Rock Cafe
owns the world’s greatest collection of music memora-
bilia, which is displayed at its locations around the globe.
For fans of music, great food and good times, Hard Rock
is the go-to restaurant to get that authentic American
diner-inspired cuisine wrapped in a unique musical ex-
perience. So, it’s time to strike up the band! Events, like
great music, are born to inspire others. At Hard Rock
Cafe, we pride ourselves on delivering an exceptional ex-
perience with a rock ‘n’ roll twist for each and every one
of our guests.
Fresh pasta, sweet desserts
inside Zama AEON Mall
At Sandwich Café Panes House, you’ll love our delicious
pastas and desserts made fresh daily. You’ll notice our
pasta dishes use only the finest 100% Italian durum wheat.
And, for dessert don’t miss our signature strawberry
shortcake with its delicate sweetness. This moist and
perfect sponge cake like grandma used to make is layered
with juicy berries and fluffy whipped cream made from
the freshest Hokkaido dairy. Our wide selection of pasta
and desserts paired with any of our tasty café drinks will
make you feel right at home. Make plans to visit Sandwich
Café Panes House at Zama AEON Mall today!
STRIPES JAPAN STE OF JAPAN DECEMBER 17 – DECEMBER 23, 2021
A TA 8
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