HAIR FIBER THERMAL RE-ALIGNMENT - Aqia
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HAIR FIBER THERMAL RE-ALIGNMENT
PRO LISS 100 HISTORY: Hair has always been considered as the perfect adornment for our face. Historically, it meant a seduction symbol for women and a strength demonstration for men. This statement can be verified through the Greek mythology, where Afrodita hid her nakeness with her long blond hair and Samson defeated the philistines when he recovered his pretty hair. In the same way, offering the hanks to Gods meant a supreme act of big sacrifice in the Ancient Greece. In Egypt, the pharaohs were socially distinguished depending on their wigs shape, meanwhile for the muslims, having a little log on the top of the hair meant the point through which Mahoma will drive them to heaven. Nowadays, the strength concept and social status confered to the hair does not apply anymore. However, hair keeps being very important to beauty and seduction. STRAIGHT AND HEALTHY HAIR: The hair straightening is highlighted and it is a good solution for those who has frizzy or curly hair and they would like to have it straight. There are different techniques, but the issue started to become more prominent when the Japanese Straightening Treatment was launched in New York some years ago. In favor to those techniques there is the possibility to make the straight hair dream come true, it can last days or even months, depending on the applied treatment. Against them, the hairdressers keep warning about the side effects of the chemical and mechanical treatments can cause. Without the proper protection they can dry and weaken the hair. The vigour loss occurs when the keratin (the main protein which constitutes the hair) loses its functionality - protecting and regenerating the hair because it is constantly attacked by these treatments. Thus, in order to mantain the hair pretty and healthy, it is very important that you know more in detail these techniques so that you can prevent the hair from future problems. 2
Pro.Liss® 100 is an exclusive technology conceived to be used in capillary formulas based on the
acidic oxoacetamides synergy.
Thank to the association of the oxoacetamides,carbocysteine and the amino acids carbocysteines that it is
made up, Pro.Liss® 100 allows a temporary change of the hair structure, providing the following benefits:
• Smooth hair easier to comb
• Volume control and frizz reduction
• Shine and natural look
MECHANISM OF ACTION
1. Pro.Liss® 100 allows to weaken the hidrogen and salt bonds of the hair, and theorically, it allows the
interconversion of the cysteine bonds of the hair fibers surface.
2. After the application of a product which contains Pro.Liss® 100, it must be used a flat iron at a minimum
temperature of 200°C and not higher than 230°C, in this way the hair straightening is happening and
at the same time, the control and reduction of frizz take place, determining the final result.
Doesn’t
release irritant
vapors
Comply with Can have
current market contact with
requirements hair scalp¹
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Tests ensure that hair doesn’t break
100% Safe. 0% Formaldehyde.
100% Effective. 0% Glutaraldehyde.
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PRO LISS 100
NAMES
ProLiss® 100
INCI: Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine (and) Glyoxyloyl Keratin Amino Acids (and) Water
CAS: 1268868-51-4 (and) 1269630-89-8 (and) 7732-18-5
SPECIFICATIONS
Aspect (25ºC) : Transparent to opalescent liquid
Color : Yellow to chesnut
Density (20ºC) : 1.270 – 1.370
pH (sol. 20%) : 1,0 – 2,0
% Active (Refraction) : 45 - 55
INSTRUCTIONS OF USE
The recommended dosage of Pro.Liss® 100 in hair care formulas (creams, fluid
emulsions and gel creams) is between 20% and 30%.
ATTENTION!
¹Do not apply a product that contains Pro.Liss® 100 directly to the scalp if
it might be irritated or hurt. If the hair had its internal structure damaged,
it would end up broken if a product with Pro.Liss® 100 is applied. In the
application of products with Pro.Liss® 100 for retouches, please prevent the
root from the application, due it can cause hair fibers rupture.
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PROLISS® 100
Compatible with all the capillary transformation treatments so it can be applied on
hair that would be already straightened, colored and/or bleached.
STRAIGHTENED HAIR
It needs to be pointed out that other chemical straighteners such as the Ammonium
Tioglycolate, Guanidine Carbonate, or Sodium Hydroxide, modify the internal hair
structure damaging the hydrogen bonds, as well as the salt and cysteine ones.
Moreover, it can increase the fiber diameter up to 4-6 times, thus, before applying
a product wtih Pro.Liss® 100 is strongly recommended to do an application test.
Obs: It is important that the test would be done even in the re-applications in all cases.
COLORED HAIR
During the Permanent or Semi-Permanent coloring processes, it takes place the opening
of the hair fiber flakes due to the Ammonium and Monoethanolamine action. The
pigments start the oxidation process thanks to the Hydrogen Peroxyde, and they are
led into the hair cortex, they react and they form a bigger molecule. Thanks to that,
they remain in the hair coloring it.
A different sort of pigments are the ones that are being deposited in the
intercuticulal superficial space, those can be removed when the hair is washed
or with other hairtreatments.
When the flat iron is used at 200°C, it generates heat, and this is another
alternative thanks to which the hair cuticle can be opened. Therefore, when the
flat iron is used right after a product with Pro.Liss® 100 is applied, these molecules
can be removed and thus the color altered.
BLEACHED HAIR
The bleach treatments with Persulfates (sodium, ammonium and potassium) are even
more aggressive treatments, they completely destroy the hydrogen bonds, most
of the salt ones and partially the cysteine ones. The result overseen is a hair
completely dry and weak.
The time and the concentration in volume of hydrogen peroxyde in bleaching
determines the bleaching level as well as the aggression to the hair. The bigger
the concentration is, the bigger the aggression is.
Therefore, before using products which contain Pro.Liss® 100 we strongly
recommend to do a previous test that determines the hair fibers conditions as
well as some allergies can be detected, and the hair can be prevented form rupture
and color alteration.
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PRO LISS 100
HAIR FIBER THERMAL RE-ALIGNMENT
Application Test
VOLUME REDUCTION
AND CURL REDUCTION
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FINISHED PRODUCT
PHASE COMERCIAL NAME INCI NAME % WEIGHT
SoftCAT™ SX 1300X Polyquaternium-67 0.30
A
Deionized Water Aqua 20.00
Deionized Water Aqua Q.S.P. 100
B Lipex Shea Q - 50 Shea Butteramidopropyltrimonium Chloride 1.00
Polímero W - 25 Peg - 90M (and) water 4.00
Sunquart TMS Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol 5.00
C
Lipex Shea-W Shea Butter Cetyl Esters 1.00
Polymol IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 0.70
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethiconol (and)
D DC 9027* 2.00
Dimethicone Crosspolymer (Dow Corning)
Methylchloroisothiazolinone /
Zonem MI
Methylisothiazolinone 0.08
Pro.Liss® 100 Glyoxyloyl Carbocysteine (and) Glyoxyloyl Keratin 20.00
E
Amino Acids (and) Water
2.00
Hydra-Sil® Silanetriol (and) Panthenol 0.50
Essence** Shine Hair SCE-221116**
The application tests took place in a Technical Center, the Pro.Liss® 100 was used at 20% in the
formula and the product was applied in several hair types.
PROCEDURE
Heat phase A up to 40ºC for 5 minutes and homogenize. Add phase B at 80 - 85ºC and mix. Heat
phase C up to 80 - 85ºC and mix. Add A to B and homogenize. Gently stirring, add phase A/B
on phase C and stir for 10 - 15 minutes. Keeping the mix stirred, let it cool down to 60 - 65ºC,
add phase D items,and gently homogenize after each addition. Let it cool down to 40-45ºC, add
phase E items and gently homogenize after each addition.
Note: All the information that appears in this brochure is based on reliable tests. They were provided in order that the
customer can evaluate and verify it. It is the customer’s liability to adequate it to their needs.
*Supplier: (Dow Corning)
**Supplier: (Scentec)
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PRO LISS 100
APPLICATION PROTOCOL
• Wash the hair with an anti-residual/ hair dryer and comb straight with a round brush in order to
preferred shampoo. align hair while it’s being dried.
• The hair must be rinsed till the • After the hair has been combed, use your straightener
shampoo is completely removed. to flat iron the hair. Do it in thin strands parts. Make sure
• Remove water excess with a towel and temperature of 200ºC and not more than 230 ºC. Flat iron 5
dry with dryer. times each hair strand.
• Apply the product formulation with a • After the flat iron process, leave hair still for 15 minutes more.
brush, log by log, from roots to the tips. • After the pause, rinse hair and use a conditioner. If preferred
• The product must remain on the hair hair can be washed with shampoo before conditioner.
for 15 minutes. • Remove water excess with a towel. Dry the hair completely
• After that, the hair must be dried with a with a dryer.
HAIR TYPES USED IN THE APPLICATION TESTS
CAUCASIAN HAIR
1. Smooth base, thin thickness, lightly waved.
2. Smooth base, medium thickness with defined waves.
3. Smooth base, medium or thick thickness with curly tips.
FRIZZY/CURLY HAIR
4. Smooth base, defined curls.
5. Curly from roots to tips, dry and with a lot of curls “ like a coil”.
RESULTS (first aplication)
Type of Hair - Caucasian Volume Reduction Curl Reduction
Smooth base, thin thickness, lightly waved Total Total
Smooth base, medium thickness with defined waves Total Total
Smooth base, medium or thick thickness with curly tips 80% 75%
Type of Hair - Frizzy or Curly Volume Reduction Curl Reduction
Smooth base, defined curls 70% 65%
Frizzy from roots to tips, very curly 50% 55%
GRAPHICS
Chart 1. Volume Reduction Chart 2. Curl Reduction
Hair types Hair types
Caucasian thin - lightly weavy Caucasian medium-thin, defined waves
Caucasian medium-thin, defined waves Caucasian - medium/thick, curly tips
Caucasian - medium/thick, curly tips Frizzy/curly - smooth base, defined waves
Frizzy/curly - smooth base, defined waves Frizzy/curly - from roots to tips, very curly
Frizzy/curly - from roots to tips, very curly
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HAIR TREATED WITH PROLISS® 100 RESULTS
Before After
Before After
Before After
Before After
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PRO LISS 100
HAIR BREAKING | EVALUATION OF MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF HAIR FIBERS.
1. CURLY AND WAVY HAIR
Elasticity and deformation Elasticity and deformation
Wavy virgin hair with ProLiss® 100 Curly virgin hair with ProLiss® 100
Reading 5 and 10 applications Reading 5 and 10 applications
F (N F (N)
1,0 1,0
0,9 0,9
0,95
0,93
0,8 0,8
0,7 0,7 0,75
0,77 0,72
0,7
0,6 0,6
0,5 0,5
0,4 0,4
0,3 0,3
0,2 0,2
0,1 0,1
0 0
Virgin 5° apli. 10° aplic. Virgin 5° apli. 10° aplic.
• 3 standard strands / afro and wavy hair (De Meo Brother INC, NY-USA 5g, 25cm)
• Product containing 20% ProLiss® 100 by weight in the formulation
• Application protocol as previously suggested
• Determination of reference readings in the 5th and 10th applications
• Equipment reliability 95%
2. DIFFERENT TYPES OF STRAIGHTENERS
Reduction of the force of previously discolored
Caucasian hair (%) when submitted to different hair
straighteners.
Test performed on standardized wicks of previously
discolored Caucasian hair using market products.
ammonium thioglycolate sodium hydroxide guanidine hydroxide PriLiss 100®
after 1 application after 5 application
Reference: Spectroscopic Analysis of Microstructure and Protein
Degradation of Human Hair Caused by New Hair Straightening Systems
10SECURITY
Tests
TEST OBJETIVE RESULT
BCOP Assess the irritating and potential
Moderately irritating
Validated Protocol by ECVAM ocular toxic.
Category 1 (acids / strong bases)
Corrosividade Evaluate the degree of epithelial cor-
Packing group II (moderate
Validated Protocol by ECVAM rosivity
corrosivity)
At concentrations between 3.0
Citotoxicidade Evaluate the cytotoxicity of test sub- and 10.0% (v / v) IC 50 compatible
Validated Protocol by ECVAM stance cytotoxicity of the positive control
SDS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate).
Quantify the presence of Formol, HPLC-
Formaldehyde content 2000 mg/kg
the pure product via dermal
Protocol OECD
Skin Irritation / Corrosion Provide information on the corrosive or No Irritant when applied by dermal
Protocol OECD irritating effects on the skin route
It did not cause any type of dermal
Skin Sensitization or systemic reaction, when applied
Information on sensitizing power skin
Protocol OECD pure, then considered sensitizing
substance
Assess whether a substance may or
Oral Mucosa Irritation Practically considered non-irritating
may not come into direct contact with
Protocol CTFA when applied to the labial region
the oral cavity
Provide information about the health
Phototoxicidade
risks of exposure to sunlight after ap- Non-phototoxic
Protocol Acute Toxicoloy Testing
plying the product to the skin.
Mutagenicity (Reverse Mutation of Detect if a substance can cause muta-
Non-mutagenic
Bacteria Assay) tions in the DNA.
PURE PRODUCT
LABORATORIES:
ec lyzer
grupo
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HAIR FIBER THERMAL RE-ALIGNMENT
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