India Fashion Market June 2020 - Private and Confidential - ABFRL

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India Fashion Market June 2020 - Private and Confidential - ABFRL
India Fashion Market

Private and Confidential

June 2020
India Fashion Market June 2020 - Private and Confidential - ABFRL
Table of Contents
1     Macro-economic Overview of India...................................................................................................... 3
    1.1      India’s GDP Growth ....................................................................................................................... 3
    1.2      Domestic Consumption Share....................................................................................................... 3
    1.3      Key Growth Drivers ....................................................................................................................... 4
                    Demographics ....................................................................................................................... 4
                    Growing Middle Class............................................................................................................ 5
                    High Share of Urban Retail .................................................................................................... 6
2     Indian Retail Market.............................................................................................................................. 8
3     Indian Fashion Market ........................................................................................................................ 11
    3.1      Overall Apparel Market............................................................................................................... 11
    3.2      Western Wear & Ethnic Wear Mix.............................................................................................. 12
                    Western Wear ..................................................................................................................... 12
                    Ethnic Wear ......................................................................................................................... 19
    3.3      Consumer Segments ................................................................................................................... 24
                    Men’s Wear ......................................................................................................................... 25
                    Women’s Wear ................................................................................................................... 27
                    Kids Wear Breakup .............................................................................................................. 29
    3.4      Format & Channel ....................................................................................................................... 30
                    Brick & Mortar Organised Formats ..................................................................................... 30
                    Online Formats.................................................................................................................... 32
                    Omnichannel Play ............................................................................................................... 35
    3.5      COVID-19’s Impact ...................................................................................................................... 36
4     Competition Benchmarking ................................................................................................................ 39
    4.1      General Information ................................................................................................................... 39
    4.2      Store Related Information .......................................................................................................... 40
    4.3      Revenue Benchmarking .............................................................................................................. 44

India Fashion Market                                                                                                                                      1
India Fashion Market June 2020 - Private and Confidential - ABFRL
1

         Macro-economic
        Overview of India

India Fashion Market        2
India Fashion Market June 2020 - Private and Confidential - ABFRL
1 Macro-economic Overview of India
1.1 India’s GDP Growth

India is world’s 7th largest economy and expected to be in top 3 global economies by 2050
India ranks 7th in the world in terms of nominal GDP and is the 3rd largest economy in the world in PPP
terms. In 2018, India was about 1/8th of the size of the US economy and 1/5th of the size of Chinese
economy. India’s GDP is estimated to be ~USD 3200 bn in FY 2020 and by FY 2050 India is expected to be
among the top three economies of the world. Sustained high real GDP growth of over 6 percent since FY
1991, has led to a fundamental transformation of the Indian economy. India’s GDP is estimated to be
~USD 3200 bn in FY 2020.

                         Exhibit 1.1: GDP Ranking of Key Global Economies (2018)
           Country                 GDP (USD tn)       Share of World GDP (%) GDP Growth Rate (%)
 United States                         20.54                    24.4%                      2.93%
 China                                 13.60                    16.2%                      6.57%
 Japan                                  4.97                    5.9%                       0.79%
 Germany                                3.94                    4.7%                       1.53%
 United Kingdom                         2.85                    3.4%                       1.39%
 France                                 2.77                    3.3%                       1.72%
 India                                 2.71                     3.2%                       6.81%
 Italy                                  2.08                    2.5%                       0.77%
 Brazil                                 1.88                    2.2%                       1.32%
 Canada                                 1.71                    2.0%                       1.90%
 Source: World Bank
1.2 Domestic Consumption Share
India has an advantage in that its domestic consumption share (measured as Private Final Consumption
Expenditure – PFCE) in its GDP was 59 percent in 2018. In comparison China’s domestic consumption share
to its GDP was 39 percent in the same year. High share of private consumption in the GDP not only
insulates India from the vagaries of global economy but it also implies that a sustainable high economic
growth in India directly translates into a sustained consumer demand for merchandise and services.

Similarly, as more people are expected to move beyond sustenance living with rising income levels
enabled favourably by demographic advantages, India’s household consumption expenditure will
continue to get altered in favour of discretionary purchases. Therefore, categories like apparel, jewellery,
processed foods and consumer electronics are poised to gain a share of this shift.

                     Exhibit 1.2: Total Private Final Consumption Expenditure (USD bn)
 Country              2010      2011       2012     2013    2014      2015     2016    2017         2018
 United States       10,186   10,641    11,007   11,317    11,823    12,284    12,748    13,312    13,999
 China               2,157    2,732     3,145    3,547     3,948     4,271     4,416     4,704     5,263
 Japan               3,292    3,587     3,638    3,040     2,832     2,483     2,745     2,697     2,763
 Germany             1,872    2,036     1,937    2,036     2,075     1,777     1,825     1,912     2,058
 United Kingdom      1,590    1,709     1,746    1,807     1,975     1,888     1,754     1,733     1,871
 France              1,463    1,573     1,469    1,536     1,549     1,318     1,341     1,397     1,497

India Fashion Market                                                                                        3
India                  917    1,025   1,032     1,070     1,185     1,241     1,359     1,564     1,615
 Italy                 1,296   1,401   1,279     1,304     1,309     1,116     1,128     1,180     1,257
 Brazil                1,330   1,577   1,514     1,526     1,546     1,153     1,154     1,330     1,220
 Canada                 922    1,003   1,024     1,033     1,008      900       894       956       994
 Source: World Bank

1.3 Key Growth Drivers
India’s medium- to long-term growth and its positive impact on private consumption will be determined
by inter-play of demographics and urbanization.

          Demographics
Young Population

India has the lowest median age across larger / key developed and emerging countries of world, at 26
years and nearly 65 percent of the population was below the age of 35 years in FY 2012. By 2030, India’s
median age is expected to be under 30 years. India’s sizeable young population augurs well on two counts.
Firstly, it is contributed to declining dependence ratio (the ratio of the dependent population size to the
working-age population size).

These younger consumers are indulgent and are well travelled, brand conscious and well connected. They
have higher spending power and are open to experiment and explore. They expect high quality products
and service standards from consumer brands.

                 Exhibit 1.3: Median Age: Key Emerging & Developed Economies (2012)
                       Country                                   Median Age (Years)
                           India                                               26
                          China                                                35
                            USA                                                37
                        Singapore                                              38
                          Russia                                               38
                          Korea                                                39
                         Canada                                                40
                            UK                                                 40
 Source: United Nations

The ratio of the number of elderly people and children to the working-age (aged 15-64 years) population
declined from 64 percent in FY 2000 to 52 percent in FY 2016 and is expected to further decrease to 49
percent in FY 2020. This trend not only supports rising income levels and but it also leads to higher share
of discretionary expenditure.

Substantial rise in the working age population (from 36 percent in FY 2000 to 48 percent in FY 2016) augurs
well for growth momentum of the Indian economy going forward, as it will lead to rising income levels.
Moreover, younger population is naturally pre-disposed to adopting new trends and exploration given
their education profile and their exposure to media and technology. This backdrop manifests as an
opportunity for domestic consumption in the form of branded behaviour, organization retail and product
designs.

India Fashion Market                                                                                       4
Exhibit 1.4: Age Dependency Ratio

         77%            79%
                                         75%
                                                         72%
                                                                         64%
                                                                                         56%
                                                                                                       50%

         1960           1970             1980            1990            2000            2010          2018

 Source: World Bank

         Growing Middle Class
The households with annual earnings between USD 5,000-10,000 has grown at a CAGR of 17 percent from
FY 2011-16 and is further projected to grow at a rate of 12 percent to reach 109 mn in FY 2020. The
households with annual earnings between USD 10,000-50,000 have also grown at a CAGR of 20 percent
over the last five years. Increase in number of households with annual earnings of USD 10,000 to USD
50,000 will lead to increase in indulgence spending by the group. This will lead to increase in expenditure
on apparel & accessories, luxury products, consumer durables and across other discretionary categories.
It is estimated that 23 percent of global middle class will be from India by FY 2030.

                                Exhibit 1.5: Household Annual Earning Details
            Total House        HHs with Annual earning    % of total   HHs with Annual earning     % share of total
  Year
           Holds (in Mn.)      US$ 5000 - 10,000 (Mn.)      HHs        US$ 10,000 –50,000 (Mn.)         HHs
  2009           221                     34                15.20%                   10                 4.70%
  2012           230                     55                23.80%                   20                 8.70%
  2014           236                     65                26.50%                   24                 10.20%
  2015           239                     74                30.90%                   32                 13.20%
  2018           249                    103                41.20%                   73                 29.30%
 Source: EIU

Nuclearisation
The increase in household exceeds increase in population growth indicating increasing nuclearization
trend in India. According to census data 2011, 74 percent of urban households have five or less members
as compared to 65 percent in FY 2001. It is expected that fall in the average household size coupled with
rising disposable income will lead to a greater number of urban household units that are pre-disposed to
discretionary expenditure viz. jewellery, fashion, food services.

                            Exhibit 1.6: Indian Household Size and Growth Trend
  Year      Total No. of HHs        Avg. HH Size         Avg. Urban HH          Decadal growth    Decadal growth
                (millions)                                    size                rate of HHs     rate population
  1981            119                    5.5                   5.4                  19.23%            24.65%
  1991            148                    5.5                   5.3                  24.68%            23.79%
  2001            187                    5.3                   5.1                  26.28%            21.52%
  2011            247                    5.1                   4.9                  32.09%            17.64%
 Source: India Budget

India Fashion Market                                                                                                  5
Increasing Urbanisation
India is second largest urban community in the world after China, with an urban population of about 435
mn (FY 2016). Though, India fares lower than global average in terms of urban population’s share in total
population with only 33 percent of India’s population classified as urban compared to global average of
54 percent. But it is the pace of India’s urbanization that is a key trend to note for implication on India’s
economic growth. It is estimated that as of FY 2020, 35 percent of India’s population lives in urban centres
and contributes to 70–75 percent of India’s GDP.

The urbanization trend is expected to continue and by FY 2050, India will have half of total population will
stay in urban areas and will account for well over 80 percent of GDP. This urbanization pace is rapidly
creating a segment pool of Indians that display migrant tendencies and are without past baggage of habits.
They look forward to new products, services and solutions that help them to adopt to new rules of living.
India’s urbanization pace will envelope two key trends that will have implications on India’s domestic
consumption narrative.

                                       Exhibit 1.7: Increasing Urbanisation
                                                                                                37%
                                                                33%           34%
                                             31%
          28%              29%

          2000             2005              2010               2015          2018              2025P

 Source: Secondary Research

        High Share of Urban Retail
The share of urbanization has increased from 28 percent in FY 2000 to 33 percent in FY 2015 and is
expected to reach 37 percent by FY 2025. The number of urban agglomerations with population of 1 mn
or more has increased from 35 in FY 2001 to 53 in FY 2011. Increasing urbanization has led to an increase
in the share of urban retail from 48 percent in FY 2012 to 50 percent in FY 2018. This will further increase
to approximately 55 percent by FY 2025.

                              Exhibit 1.8: Share of Urban and Rural in Overall Retail

                   52%                                 50%                              45%

                   48%                                 50%                              55%

                   2012                               2018                              2025P

                                                    Urban    Rural

 Source: Wazir Analysis

India Fashion Market                                                                                       6
2

             Indian Retail Market

India Fashion Market                7
2 Indian Retail Market
India’s retail sector in FY 2020 is estimated to be USD 1002 bn. Food & groceries (F&G) segment forms the
major share of India’s merchandise retail expenditure. High share of F&G is an expected outcome of the
developing nature of the Indian economy. When economies progress, the share of F&G in their retail
consumption basket comes down and stabilizes at around 55 percent as is the case with mature
economies like UK. But such a decline is gradual and spans decades. Decline in share of F&G always favours
a rising share of discretionary retail and in the case of India; apparel & accessories is a primary
discretionary category in the Indian retailing basket. It is expected that in FY 2020 apparel & accessories
will contribute ~ 8 percent of India’s overall retail consumption.

                 Exhibit 2.1: Share of various Categories in Overall Indian Retail Basket
                                            FY 2015          FY 2018         FY 2020E        FY 2025P
 Total Retail (USD bn)                        559              806            1,002            1,805
 Food & Grocery                              67.5%            66.7%           65.8%            65.0%
 Apparel & Accessories                       8.3%             7.9%            7.7%             7.6%
 Jewellery & Watches                         7.3%             7.7%            8.1%             8.5%
 Consumer Durables and Appliances            5.2%             5.9%            6.8%             7.3%
 Home & Living                               4.2%             4.3%            4.4%             4.4%
 Pharmacy & Wellness                         2.8%             2.9%            3.0%             3.1%
 Footwear                                    1.2%             1.2%            1.2%             1.3%
 Others                                      3.5%             3.4%            3.0%             2.8%
 Source: Wazir Analysis

In India, contribution of organised retail is low (~12 percent in FY 2020) as compared to mature markets
like USA where penetration of organised retail is high. However, in relatively newer market like China the
online market has seen tremendous growth. In India the online channel is expected to grow at a CAGR of
26 percent between FY 2020 and FY 2025, as compared to 20 percent CAGR of organised brick & mortar
channel. India is expected to mimic the Chinese market going ahead, owing to low penetration of
organised retail.

           Exhibit 2.2: Overall Retail’s Share across Traditional, Organised & Online Channels
                                             FY 2015          FY 2018        FY 2020E      FY 2025P
 Total Retail (USD bn)                        559              806            1,002            1,805
 Traditional                                 88.1%            88.2%           83.6%            76.0%
 Organised – Brick & Mortar                  6.5%             9.5%            11.8%            16.0%
 Online                                      0.8%             2.4%            4.6%             8.0%
 Source: Wazir Analysis

The organised brick & mortar market in India was USD 118 bn in FY 2020 with categories such as jewellery
& watches (26 percent), food & grocery (23 percent) and apparel & accessories (20 percent) having the
highest contributions. These categories will continue to play a pivotal role in future as well as the
organized penetration within these categories is expected to rise the fastest.

India Fashion Market                                                                                     8
Exhibit 2.3: Organised Brick & Mortar Retail in FY 2020E
                                                       Organised Brick &
                              Overall Retail
                                                         Mortar Retail
                                                                                               Key Retailers
                            Share         Size         Share       Size
                             (%)        (USD Bn)        (%)      (USD Bn)
                                                                                 Big Bazaar, DMart, Reliance Fresh,
 Food & Grocery             65.8%           659.4      22.7%          26.9
                                                                                 Spencer’s
                                                                                 Aditya Birla Fashion, Arvind Brands,
                                                                                 Fabindia, Lifestyle, Raymond,
 Apparel & Accessories      7.7%            77.2       20.2%          23.8
                                                                                 Reliance Trends, Shoppers Stop,
                                                                                 Westside
 Jewellery & Watches        8.1%            81.2       26.3%          31.1       Tanishq, Kalyan, Malabar
 Consumer Durables
                            6.8%            68.1        6.4%           7.6       Vijay Sales, Croma, Reliance Digital
 and Appliances
 Home & Living              4.4%          44.1         3.7%            4.4       Home Centre, Home Stop
 Pharmacy & Wellness        3.0%          30.1         2.6%            3.0       Apollo, MedPlus
 Footwear                   1.2%          12.0         2.8%            3.4       Bata India, Metro Shoes, Khadims
 Others                     3.0%          30.1         15.2%           18.0
 Total                      100%         1002.1        100%           118.2
 Source: Wazir Analysis

Delhi & Mumbai clusters contribute about 9 percent of India’s total retail spending. The top 72 cities
account for 38 percent of total retail consumer spending. The top 24 cities (Metro, Mini-Metro & Tier I)
account for 29 percent of total retail spending which highlights the strength of the rest of India that has a
share of 71 percent. Major expansion in terms of retail consumer spending is expected to come from
India’s Tier II and Tier III cities as consumerism and appetite for organised retail and fashion is perceived
to be on the rise in these markets. Retail players with a nationwide presence are expected to benefit
significantly from this opportunity.

                   Exhibit 2.4: Overall Retail Spend Across Different City Types (USD bn)

                                                                                                               631

                                                                                                       352

                 90                   100                      90                      90
          50                   56                      50                       50

         Top 2 Cities         Next 6 Cities          Next 16 Cities           Next 50 Cities          Rest of India

                                                    FY 2015    FY 2020E

 Source: Wazir Analysis

India Fashion Market                                                                                                    9
3

        Indian Fashion Market

India Fashion Market            10
3 Indian Fashion Market
3.1 Overall Apparel Market
The overall apparel segment size in FY 2020 was estimated to be USD 67 bn. The market is projected to
grow at ~10 percent and reach USD 107 bn by FY 2025. This growth is expected to be driven by factors
such as more purchasing power driving growth in primary discretionary spend, better access and
availability of products, acute brand consciousness, increasing urbanization and increasing digitization.

                               Exhibit 3.1: Indian Fashion Market (USD Bn)

                                                  ~10%

                                                                                       107

                                                                67
                                          55
                   41

                 FY 2015              FY 2018                FY 2020E               FY 2025P

 Source: Wazir Analysis

The branded apparel sector will witness a growth of 13.4 percent CAGR over the next five years as against
the 10 percent CAGR projected for total apparel sector.
                 Exhibit 3.2: Penetration of Branded Apparel and Organized Apparel Retail
                                          as a % of Apparel Market

                                                             48%                      56%
                                    38%                              33%                     40%
           25%     20%                     25%

             FY 2012                  FY 2018                 FY 2020E                 FY 2025P

                                    Branded Apparel      Organised Apparel

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Lifestyle retailers, such as Aditya Birla Fashion, which is one of the leaders in Indian fashion industry,
have succeeded in emerging as category leaders with a presence across price segments of value,
premium, super-premium & luxury and a balanced portfolio across segments of men’s casual wear &
formal wear, women’s formal, casual & ethnic wear and kids wear. The company and its subsidiaries are
one of India’s largest pure-play fashion and lifestyle companies in terms of revenue with a strong bouquet
of leading fashion brands and retail formats across various segments and categories with pan-India
distribution. While Forever 21 is a global fast fashion brand with significant popularity primarily amongst
young girls, People is a young brand that seeks to address the fashion aspirations of Indian youth which
used to be an independent brand and it operates primarily as one of the private labels within the

India Fashion Market                                                                                    11
Pantaloons segment with the focus on young customers. Forever 21 is one of the most popular global fast
fashion brands amongst youth. The branded apparel sector is expected to witness increased penetration
from the current levels at 48 percent (FY 2020) to a substantial share of 56 percent by 2025. Aditya Birla
Fashion is well placed to take advantage of this opportunity as it has one of the largest distribution
networks of apparel businesses in the country.

3.2 Western Wear & Ethnic Wear Mix
The apparel market in India is dominated by the western wear market (contribution ~69 percent in FY
2020) and it is expected to grow and contribute ~72 percent by FY 2025. Increasing number of working
women, a shift towards aspiration rather than need based buying is expected to drive the western wear
market in India.
The ethnic wear market is also expected to grow at ~7.8 percent and reach nearly USD 30 bn in FY 2025
from USD 20.6 bn in FY 2020. This ethnic wear segment is dominated by women wear as Indian women,
Indian and ethnic fashion is a mainstream need for daily wear use (in addition to strong occasion wear)
whereas for Men it currently restricted to occasion wear viz. weddings and festivals.
                                    Exhibit 3.3: Breakup of Western Wear & Ethnic Wear

                         35%              32%                  31%                28%
    (Market Share)

                         65%              68%                  69%                72%

                        FY 2015          FY 2018             FY 2020E           FY 2025P

                                       Western Wear       Ethnic Wear

 Source: Wazir Analysis
                     Western Wear
The western wear market in India is expected to grow at a CAGR of 10.9 percent between FY 2020 & FY
2025.
                             Exhibit 3.4: Overall Western Wear Market

                                                                                              77
                          27                       37                      46

                        FY 2015                 FY 2018                 FY 2020E           FY 2025P

 Source: Wazir Analysis

In FY 2020, men’s western wear accounts for nearly 93 percent of the total men’s wear market of USD 28
bn, while in women western wear holds 32 percent of the total USD 25 bn women’s wear market. Within

India Fashion Market                                                                                   12
the kid’s segment, western wear accounts for 86 percent of the total USD 14 bn kid’s wear market. This
implies that men and kids western wear is the mainstay for western wear in India.
                                  Exhibit 3.5: Western Wear Market Mix

              26%                       26%                         26%                          26%
              17%                       17%                         17%                          19%

              58%                       57%                         56%                          55%

             FY 2015                   FY 2018                    FY 2020E                  FY 2025P

                                            Mens         Womens    Kids

 Source: Wazir Analysis

                 Exhibit 3.6: Branded Vs Unbranded Mix Across Men’s, Women’s & Kids

                           43%   40%                        47%     45%
              48%                                  52%                                           52%   49%
      58%                               62%                                         58%
                                                                             77%

                           57%   60%                        53%     55%
              52%                                  48%                                           48%   51%
      42%                               38%                                         42%
                                                                             23%

    FY 2018 FY 2020E FY 2023P FY 2025P FY 2018 FY 2020E FY 2023P FY 2025P FY 2018 FY 2020E FY 2023P FY 2025P
                    Mens                              Womens                              Kids

                                                 Branded   Unbranded

 Source: Wazir Analysis
T-shirts is considered as one of the most comfortable and dynamic categories of western wear. Due
to its soft knit fabric, fits, and the versatile use, it is highly acceptable to a wide segment of customers.
Due to comfort choices for fabric, designs, fits – categories such as shirts along with tops, trousers
and skirts are quite popular with youth in both urban as well as rural areas.
The Indian denim market is exhibiting continuous growth over the years. With new technologies,
trends and higher market reach, this sector has promising growth potential. Even in rural areas,
denim is becoming highly fashionable with most men and teenager girls opting denim wear over
traditional outfits. Denim is a high growth category as it is fashionable and comfortable, and
enhances style quotient. The value growth within the denim wear owes to increased demand for
stretch and light weight fabric, varying colours, styling and detailing. This trend is emerging across all
categories (men’s, women’s and kids).

India Fashion Market                                                                                           13
Exhibit 3.7: Key Western Wear Categories
    Categories               % share in total Western Wear                              Growth Rate
 Trousers                                    19.1%                                             6.0%
 Shirts                                      18.2%                                             5.7%
 Innerwear                                   13.8%                                             10.0%
 T-Shirts                                    10.8%                                             9.2%
 Source: Wazir Analysis

                Exhibit 3.8: Share of Casual & Formal in Men’s & Women’s Western Wear

                 Men's Western Wear                                        Women's Western Wear

                                                                        CAGR – 8%
            CAGR – 7%                                                                   23%
                           32%
                                   68%       CAGR – 11%                                                   CAGR – 12.5%
                                                                                               77%

                          Casual    Formal                                            Casual     Formal

 Source: Wazir Analysis

In the illustrative below, we have captured the various business models for adopted by players for
expansion of western wear.
                   Exhibit 3.9: Comparison of Western Wear Retailing Formats in India
                               National Players                               Private Label                   Online First
                                     Category                                                                 Online First
                 Multi-Category                        Distribution   Private Label       Multi-Brand
                                     Focused                                                                   Private
                 Retailer Brands                      Focus Brands     Format LFS             LFS
                                     Retailers                                                                  Label

 Key Brands

 Share of
 Western
 Wear in                100%                 100%         100%          50-60%                 50-60%            100%
 total
 Business

India Fashion Market                                                                                                     14
Breakup of
 Sales by
 Channel

                                    Pan-India
                                                    Pan-India
                                     presence
                    Pan-India                        presence
                                       with
                 presence with                         with
                                    significant                                                Launched
 Retail            significant                      significant    Pan-India    Pan-India
                                    penetration                                                  offline
 Presence      penetration across                  penetration     presence     presence
                                    across Tier                                                  stores
                Tier 2 and below                  across Metro
                                      2 and
                      towns                          & Tier 1
                                      below
                                                      towns
                                      towns

 Price                               Mid to                                      Mid to
                Mid to Premium                    Mass to Mid     Mass to Mid                 Mass to Mid
 Positioning                        Premium                                     Premium

 Source: Wazir Analysis                     Legend:

Lifestyle national apparel players marked by Arvind Brands, Aditya Birla Fashion have ensured relevant
offering straddling price segments of premium, mid-premium, economy and mass. Through lifestyle
brands, Aditya Birla Fashion is a leading premium branded apparel player in India with three of the largest
apparel brands in India, Louis Philippe, Van Heusen and Peter England. The bouquet of lifestyle brands
with the Aditya Birla Fashion segment are amongst the top fashion apparel brands in the country.
The premium and super-premium segment enjoy 17% of the total apparel market; with the mid, economy
and mass segment taking an equitable contribution share of ~28% each. Hence, brands and retailers that
have developed strategies to cater to the entire spectrum augur well for growth. In the last few years,
Aditya Birla Fashion has expanded its presence in casual wear through brand extensions and gained a
strong position in the fast-growing value fashion segment through Pantaloons segment. International
brands portfolio of Aditya Birla Fashion comprises The Collective, India’s largest multi-brand retailer of
international brands and licensee businesses of select premium/luxury brands such as Ted Baker, Hackett,
Simon Carter, Polo Ralph Lauren, Fred Perry, Ralph Lauren and American Eagle.
This segment of fashion retailers leveraged design, product, and supply chain capabilities to consistently
invest in product differentiation, fashion quotient, fabric attributes to cater to distinct customer
segments and regional sensibilities
As international brands forayed into the country and increased focus on the geography, domestic lifestyle
brands leveraged their strong brand salience, high loyalty factor for category adjacencies and extension
across apparel as well as fashion categories of footwear, accessories.
Whilst Exclusive Brand Formats (EBO) emerged the core format for western wear fashion retail, in the
strive to translate the seamless retail experience as well be available to the relevant customer segments,
these brands adopted a multi-channel strategy with commensurate presence across all channels.
With the online pie within apparel expected to increase to nearly four times, albeit on a small base, over
the next four years, omni channel will comprise a significant share of this online apparel segment.

India Fashion Market                                                                                       15
Organized brick & mortar will continue to enjoy the larger, sizable share at USD 32.5 bn, and three times
the scale of online retail.
Leading brick & mortar (B&M) retailers will lead this offline to online (O2O) drive compared to the online
horizontal and vertical players. These lifestyle retailers enjoy the advantage of a robust wide retail
network across the metro-centric as well as Tier 2 and 3 Indian cities.
3.2.1.1 Growth Drivers – Western Wear
Within the overall Indian apparel market, the western wear market has evolved significantly over the last
couple of years. The industry has witnessed rapid growth, triggered by increasing usage of western wear
by fashion conscious youths. The change in classification of consumer wardrobe has acted as a growth
driver for western wear in India. Western wear brands are growing across all segments of the Indian
market (premium, medium and value). International brands like Zara and H&M have seen rapid growth in
the western wear segment over last few years.
Certain factors which are contributing as key growth drivers of western wear in the country are
enumerated below:
Youth as a growth driver:
Youth (15 to 29 years old) who comprise 26 percent of the consuming population, are a key growth driver
of western wear in the country. Increasing disposable income, comfort, quality and brand consciousness
are major reasons behind increasing acceptance of western wear among this young population.

Influence of International Brands:
The entry of the international brands in the country is one of the biggest drivers of western wear. Their
entry has widened the perspective of consumers which in turn has resulted in higher acceptability of new
trends, styles in the market. With the increasing exposure to international fashion trends, the Indian
consumer today is aware of global trends and has given him more variety to choose from.

Online penetration of Western Wear:
Increased penetration of internet coupled with burgeoning smart phone market has resulted in the
growth of e-tailing in India. Due to ease of ordering online, paucity of time, flexible return policies and the
cash on delivery, the youth of India is more likely to purchase western wear online.

Increased rural spending:
Rural areas are developing at a rapid pace and so is their purchasing power. With the percolation of mass
media, people in rural areas are also aware of fashion trends. Their inclination towards western trends is
another reason for the growing demand of western wear in rural areas. The mid- value segment of
western wear, characterized by quality, value-for-money, and increasing styling quotient, is the preferred
choice of people from rural areas.

Casualization of Fashion:
The Indian casual wear market has evolved significantly over the years. Casual wear categories such as
denim, activewear, casual shirts, and fashionable skirts are outpacing the growth of formal wear in India.
This is reflective of the changing consumer trend and increasing usage of casual wear in offices as well as
home. This shift in consumer’s wardrobe towards casual wear has acted as a growth driver for the western
wear in India. The casualization of fashion is not unique to India and is driven by global phenomena.

India Fashion Market                                                                                        16
Earlier, fashion was considered as a basic need to be purchased on the basis of the requirements.
Consequently, the typical consumer wardrobe was limited to basic categories like shirts, trousers,
sweaters, sarees and salwar kameez. The basic purchase parameters were limited to the basic functions
of the cloth, comfort and price. However, with the changing socio-cultural values, increased per capita
consumption, increasing exposure to international fashion trends and growing disposable income apparel
market is slowly becoming more occasions specific. Consequently, fashion basket has expanded to include
clothing like casual wear, sports/gym wear, jackets, jeans etc.

Rise of Athleisure:
Athleisure is another growing segment which is growing faster and there is an opportunity for brands to
enter this segment. The athleisure trend has really caught up over the last decade as there has been a
growing health and fitness related awareness among Indian consumer, especially the young consumers
who have taken up different fitness activities such as yoga, running, etc. This has resulted in an increased
spending by consumers on purchase of appropriate gear for such activities thus resulting in a significant
growth of the segment.

Lifestyle Brands Increase their Brand Assortment:
Lifestyle brands such as Arrow, Louis Philippe, Park Avenue, Raymond, Van Heusen are leveraging and
combining their popularity and brand presence to increase their assortment width by extending into
related categories such as accessories, footwear, inner wear as they move into tier II & III cities, where
customers have limited strong brand availability for these categories.

Rise of private label:
Branded penetration in the market has a skew towards mid to premium price points and there is very
limited offering in the value price points leading to pricing gaps in the market. These gaps in the market
have provided an opportunity for retailers to launch their private label in the value segment. Private label
led players such as Pantaloons, Westside, FBB, Max and V-Mart identified these gaps and have launched
products in the value fashion segment.
Private labels are win-win solution for both big retailers and value for money first time consumers as these
labels ensure that a certain minimum quality and image. Young population from middle class India is
becoming image conscious and is a significant contributor to the western wear market. The private labels
offers many benefits to retailers such as,
    •   ability to offer better pricing & value to their customers and drive higher margins owing to low
        advertising & promotional costs,
    •   offer new merchandising options and thus create a differentiation in the market and also drive
        customer loyalty,
    •   better control over processes since they have complete control over important functions such as
        design, pricing, merchandising, stocking and distribution,
    •   higher bargaining power with suppliers

India Fashion Market                                                                                     17
Exhibit 3.10: Private Label Western Wear

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Over the years categories that were marked by limited focus from the supply perspective vis-à-vis retail
penetration and city expansion have lent significantly to the private label play. Overlaying these dynamics
were demand led levers of these categories such as relatively high price elasticity, low branded propensity.
Hence categories such as T-shirts, Casual Shirts and Ethnic wear propelled the growth of private label.
These categories tended to get focus from LFS (large format store) owing to the high share of private label
penetration within these formats. Further in the strive to complete the assortment offering from brands
that serve as traffic drivers, the LFS format came to enjoy high salience amongst consumers seeking
fashion.
As consumers in the next rung of Indian cities i.e. Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities become increasingly aspirational
and eager to engage with fashion, the LFS format got segmented further into lifestyle LFS and Value LFS
formats.
Formats such as Pantaloons, Max that offer high fashion quotient and enjoy the strong proposition of
fast fashion combined with value have strong tailwinds for growth as they a) cater to a wide category
offering cutting across the wardrobe of western wear, ethnic wear, casual wear and active wear b)
opportunity to balance price and fashion c) high share of private label d) cater to opportunity in cities
beyond metro-centric India for further growth.

Innerwear – Emerging Category within Western Wear:
No category better exemplifies this statement than the innerwear category which over the last couple of
decades has evolved from a category driven by ‘basic necessity’ to ‘lifestyle fashion category’. The
consumers in metros & tier I cities, who constitute an important market for this category, are increasingly
discerning and chooses products based on both styling and comfort. Consumers in non-metros are also

India Fashion Market                                                                                      18
realizing the importance of better brands, hence this segment will see high growth and thus to attain pan
India presence a brand cannot ignore non metros.

This innerwear category exhibits highest penetration of branded play across retail categories, with brands
contributing nearly 45% share. This, however is marked by commoditized brands that achieved scale
through the wholesale channel. This has led to many national & international lifestyle brands such as Park
Avenue, Levi’s, United Colours of Benetton, Van Heusen, FCUK, Tommy Hilfiger entering this segment at
the premium end. Although the branded play in the innerwear category is very high, but the category is
highly commoditised.

The overall innerwear market in FY 2020 is expected to be USD 6.5 bn with women’s category contributing
nearly 2/3rd of the market. Men’s innerwear mid-premium to premium is dominated by Jockey, and there
is wide space for the demand to be fulfilled. The women’s mid-premium to premium segment is
fragmented in products & prices with no leadership. Women are looking for enhanced attributes such as
plus size, maternity bras & shapewear and formats & brands have not geared up to meet these customer
service demands. There is thus a place for vertical specialist.

                                Exhibit 3.11: Innerwear Market – FY 2020E

   CAGR                         5.5%                                 11%                   11.5%      ~25%

     Men's                       47%                                   35%                      16%      2%

  Women's                      43%                                    40%                       15%      2%

   CAGR                        11.5%                                17.5%                   20%       ~20%
                                  Economy     Mid    Premium     Super Premium

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Currently, unorganized general trade segment dominates channel dynamics with 85 percent contribution
share. Owing to distribution focus by brands combined with display characteristics, the hosiery store
format will continue to be important in future as well. However, the online channel will drive growth as it
enables players to offer a greater width and depth in assortment as well as provide conducive buying
environment.

        Ethnic Wear
Indian consumers no longer sport formal or casual attire for family functions and marriage ceremonies;
they prefer ethnic wear that reflects uniqueness of the Indian cultural ethos. While, the appeal of apparels
inspired by local/ regional designs, raw material, styles etc. in other markets is restricted to occasion wear
and does not extend to daily wear use. In the case of India ethnic fashion has succeeded to retain its
mainstream appeal. There is high degree of preference and contribution of ethnic wear in the women

India Fashion Market                                                                                       19
wear category and is a unique feature of Indian apparel market. Ethnic wear is the largest segment within
apparel industry, most of which lies within the women’s segment.
The category association revolves around comfort, contemporization as well as convenience. Whilst the
consumers in Tier I cities, compared to the metro-centric consumers, tended to be strongly governed by
traditional usage of the sari, the ethnic wear category, with products like salwar kameez, kurtis is
increasingly becoming the category sought as it offers both conformity and style. In the men’s segment,
nehru jackets, indo-western, sherwani and kurta sets are the various categories. In the overall segment,
women’s contribution to the overall ethnic wear pie is almost 9 times to that of men’s contribution.
                        Exhibit 3.12: Men’s Ethnic Wear & Women’s Ethnic Wear Mix

                  Men's Ethnic Wear Mix                                            Women's Ethnic Wear Mix
                                       15%                                                  7%
                       35%
                                                                                                           42%
                                             20%

                                                                                     51%
                                 30%

       Nehru       Indo Western        Sherwani        Kurta Sets
       Jackets                                                             Saree   Salwar Kameez / Kurti   Blouse/petticoat

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Women’s ethnic wear has transitioned from just being traditional wear to daily wear that combines
tradition with contemporary fashion. Ethnic wear categories have maintained salience across geographies
as well as across consumer segments of varying socio-economic strata, age groups and lifestyles, in spite
of the increasing penetration of western wear. The mix of key formats in the women’s ethnic wear
retailing is depicted in the chart below,
                        Exhibit 3.13: Split of Women’s Ethnic Market Across Formats

                             CAGR - 51%                                                                National
                                             21%
                                                       43%          CAGR - 36%                         Private Labels
                                           18%                                                         Regional Brands
                       CAGR - 13%
                                                 18%                                                   Online Focussed

                                          CAGR - 25%
 Source: Wazir Analysis

India Fashion Market                                                                                                      20
Exhibit 3.14: Retailing Formats in Women’s Ethnic Wear

 National
 Brands

 Regional
 Brands

 Large
 Format
 Stores

 Online
 Focussed
 Formats

 Source: Wazir Analysis

India Fashion Market                                                               21
Exhibit 3.15: Comparison of Women’s Ethnic Wear Retailing in India

                       National Players          Regional Player          Private Label           Online

                   Ethnic           Ethnic       Ethnic Apparel     In-Store       In-Store    Neighbourhoo
                Lifestyle &       Apparel led      led Retail        Ethnic         Ethnic       d stores/
                  Fashion           Retail           brands         Apparel        Apparel       Boutique
                 Retailers          Brands                         brands of      brands of        Shops
                                                                     Multi-      Multi-brand
                                                                     brand            LFS
                                                                   Retailers

 Key Brands

 Breakup of                         40-50%
 Sales by                           30-40%             70-80%
                   100%                                               100%           100%         100%
 Channel                            5-10%              20-30%
                                    5-10%
                Pan-India         Pan-India
                 presence          presence        Limited to a    Pan-Indian
                   with              with           particular      presence
                                                                                                Limited to a
 Retail         significant       significant      region. For     with higher     Pan-India
                                                                                               particular city
 Presence      penetration       penetration     example, Ibadat   penetration     presence
                                                                                                 or cluster
               across Tier 2     across Tier 2    in North and     in smaller
                 ad below          ad below       Kiara in South     towns
                   towns            towns

 Price            Mid to            Mid to           Mid to         Mass to
                 Premium                            Premium                      Mass to Mid   Mass to Mid
 Positioning                       Premium                           Mid

 Source: Wazir Analysis                      Legend:

3.2.2.1 Growth Drivers – Ethnic Wear
Some of the key growth drivers for this category are,
Growing preference of occasion-specific clothing is making ethnic wear the most preferred choice for
social functions
Indian consumers no longer stick to formal or casual attire for family functions and marriage ceremonies;
they rather prefer ethnic wear that reflects uniqueness of the Indian cultural ethos. This trend has
extended to national days like the Independence Day, Republic Day, when ethnic wear takes a lead over
other categories. Innovative marketing and promotion (by brands) that links days of national importance

India Fashion Market                                                                                         22
to display of patriotism through ethnic attire have contributed to the growing demand of ethnic wear for
such occasions. Many corporates, both Indian and international, have started encouraging ethnic dressing
during the occasions of Diwali, Holi.

The ethnic wear consumers are seeking association with brands:
The ethnic wear consumers have started inclining towards branded apparel owing to assurance of better
design, quality and fit. Growing disposable income, increasing aspiration levels among youths are driving
factors for branded ethnic wear market in India. Consequently, the ethnic wear market, in recent years,
has witnessed high growth trajectory of existing brands as well as entrance of many new brands. While
the Indian brands compete with international brands in western wear categories, they have an edge in
ethnic wear products. Proliferation of brands is more distinguishable in women’s ethnic wear as unlike
men, women use ethnic wear as formal wear as well. The growing acceptance of ethnic wear as work
wear is also driving demand for ethnic wear.

The deep-value conscious consumers prefer private labels for everyday use, wait for discounts and
promotion:
The value conscious consumers seek better deals while opting for ethnic wear fashion. They wait for
discounts, gift coupons and special offers to purchase their ethnic fashion. High price inflation in recent
years has increased the number of value conscious consumers. Private label offerings of retailers have
managed to tap the quality and price requirements of these consumers. Almost all the key retailers have
introduced their private labels that offer optimum combination of quality, trust and reliability and
consumers have started viewing these private labels as brands.

Focus of Large Format Stores on ethnic wear:
The ethnic wear category has witnessed significant focus from the large format lifestyle retailers players
through private label offerings owing to its prevalent adoption across geographies and age groups. Few
other categories have received similar high levels of focus from large format stores. In the strive to
complete the assortment offering along with national brands in addition to private labels, the platform,
over time, has evolved to form an essential pillar for the growth of ethnic wear.

Consumers are increasingly adopting alternate retail channels for ethnic wear as well:
The ethnic wear consumers are no longer restricting themselves to traditional retail channels. Indian
consumers have started looking beyond mere products; they increasingly seek quality shopping
experiences combined with best pricing, wide range of product portfolio, multiple brands under one roof.
Consequently, ethnic wear retailing has evolved from traditional family-based stores of cities to large
format stores, E-tailing, home shopping. Consumers have also started accepting ethnic wear-only online
retailers. In fact, some of these ethnic wear-only retailers cater to the Indian diaspora across Asia, Europe
and the US.

Mix and Match:
Indian women have uniquely blended ethnic fashion with western wear and mixes both to create own
styles. For instance, denim wear with kurtas. They also patronize global designs / colours / prints on Indian
silhouettes for contemporary global prints on Kurtas.

India Fashion Market                                                                                      23
Heterogeneous wardrobe:
Relevant segment of Indian women have a diverse wardrobe that comprises a mix of ethnic fashion
(sarees, kurtas, leggings) and western fashion (T-shirts, denims, dresses etc.). This wardrobe is not only
diverse but it is used interchangeably for similar use for instance – dress for work can both comprise.

Movement from RTS/Tailoring to Ready to Wear options:
But it is a challenge for global fashion brands to respond to this opportunity in Indian ethnic fashion as
the overall size of Indian ethnic fashion is neither big enough not broad enough (appeal outside of India)
for the global supply chain of western wear to align itself on raw materials, sourcing and merchandising
approach for ethnic wear. Raw materials and sourcing for Indian ethnic fashion is a mix of artisanal skills
& machines and handlooms & power looms. This poses challenge for the scale of global fashion brands.
Also, the global design response that interprets trends into products for global brands requires
interpretation of Indian ethos, fabric, colours into products.
As ethnic wear to evolving into engagement with organized formats with consumers driven primarily by
Ready-to-Stitch, it is also witnessing what is termed as the circle of fashion. Consumers seek offering that
is exclusive, customized and unique. This has given rise the trend of accessible designer wear. Designer
wear is blending into avatars of becoming more available and hence mainstay. This is true, especially for
Ethnic wear owing to the celebration of the Indian ethos. This is being propelled by both demand and
supply levers, giving popular and upcoming designers to leverage this platform. Concepts such as Jaypore
that celebrate Indian fashion, fabrics, weaves, designers across are a key example of leveraging this
trend. The premium ceremonial ethnic wear is catered to by key designer boutiques such as JJ Valaya,
Shantanu & Nikhil, Sabyasachi. Jaypore and Shantanu & Nikhil operate in the premium and luxury part in
the ethnic wear.
3.3 Consumer Segments
                                   Exhibit 3.16: Men’s Apparel Market

CAGR              10.3%                   8.6%          14.2%             10.3%           13.6%       8.4%

                       45.3                 21.6

                                         14.3
  (USD Bn)

                27.7                                         13.2
                                                       6.8                                                  5.7
                                                                                                      3.8
                                                                          1.9 3.1         0.9 1.7

             Total Market Size           Formal        Casual         Innerwear          Activewear   Others

                                                               FY 2020E       FY 2025P

 Source: Wazir Analysis

India Fashion Market                                                                                              24
Exhibit 3.17: Women’s Apparel Market

CAGR               9.4%                  7.6%          14.1%               12.5%          16.1%              7.1%

                       39.0                 24.4
  (USD Bn)

                24.9                    16.9

                                                             8.5
                                                       4.4
                                                                           1.0 1.8        0.9 1.9            1.7 2.4

             Total Market Size          Ethnic        Innerwear            Formal         Casual             Others

                                                              FY 2020E         FY 2025P

 Source: Wazir Analysis

             Men’s Wear
The men’s apparel is estimated to have contributed close to 42 percent (USD 28 bn) to the overall apparel
market in FY 2020 and is expected to grow at ~10.3 percent and reach USD 45 bn by FY 2025.

                                   Exhibit 3.18: Overall Men’s Wear

                                                   ~10.5%
                                                                                                     45
                                                                      28
                                       23
                       17

                  FY 2015            FY 2018                       FY 2020E                       FY 2025P

 Source: Wazir Analysis

In men’s western wear category, the market is expected to grow at 10.36 percent from USD 25.9 bn in FY
2020 to USD 42.4 bn by FY 2025. Shirts and trousers are the two biggest components contributing nearly
50 percent of the overall category. Denim and activewear are the fastest growing categories, growing at
near 15 percent between FY 2020 and FY 2025.

India Fashion Market                                                                                                   25
Exhibit 3.19: Men’s Western Wear (including Innerwear) – FY 2020 & FY 2025 (USD bn & %)

                   FY 2020E                                                              FY 2025P
       0.4, 2%                                          0.5, 1%      3.1, 7%
                   1.9, 8%
                                                                                         11.0, 26%
                                     7.3, 28%                                                            Shirts
    0.9, 3%                                            1.7, 4%
                                                                                                         Trousers
                                                                                                         Suits/Coats/safari suits
 4.7, 18%
                                                   9.3, 22%                                              Winterwear
                                                                                                         T-Shirts
                                                                                                         Denim
   2.1, 8%                                                                                               Activewear
                                                                                              9.3, 22%
                                        6.0, 23%         3.9, 9%                                         Others
         1.6, 6%
                   1.0, 4%                                         2.3, 6%     1.3, 3%                   Innerwear

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Men’s Innerwear
Men’s innerwear is a relatively small part of overall western wear category, contributing 8 percent to the
overall in FY 2020 (USD 1.9 bn) and is expected to grow at 10.3 percent to contribute nearly USD 3.1 bn in
FY 2025. In the men’s innerwear segment, mass segment players enjoy lower brand loyalty as compared
to premium players, however no brand witnesses as much loyalty from consumers as Jockey. Consumers
in tier I and II cities are aspirational about brands and will pay a premium for it. Basic range for briefs and
vests is mostly sold in packs of 2s and 3s by the premium and super premium segment, while the more
expensive fashion range is not.
                                        Exhibit 3.20: Men’s Inner wear (USD bn)

                                                      ~10%

                                                                                             3.1
                               1.9

                             FY 2020E                                                     FY 2025P

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Men’s Ethnic Wear
For men ethnic wear it currently restricted to occasion wear viz. weddings and festivals and is represented
by Nehru Jackets, Indo Western, Sherwani and Kurta Sets. Kurta accounts for major share of the men’s
ethnic wear followed by Sherwani and items such as Dhoti.

India Fashion Market                                                                                                         26
Exhibit 3.21: Men’s Ethnic wear (USD bn)

                                              ~9%

                                                                                      2.9
                                                              1.8
                                      1.5
               1.2

             FY 2015                FY 2018                FY 2020E                FY 2025P

 Source: Wazir Analysis

        Women’s Wear
Women’s apparel market contributes 37 percent to the overall apparel market and it is expected to grow
from USD 25 bn in FY 2020 to touch USD 39 bn by FY 2025. The growth in women’s wear market will be
driven owing to an increase in the number of working women, a shift towards aspiration rather than need
based buying and design innovations that appeal to Indian sensibilities.

                                 Exhibit 3.22: Overall Women’s Wear

                                               ~9%

                                                                                      39
                                                              25
                                      21
               16

             FY 2015                FY 2018                 FY 2020E                FY 2025P

 Source: Wazir Analysis

The overall women’s western wear category in FY 2020 is estimated to be around USD 8 bn and is expected
to grow at a CAGR of 13 percent over the next 5-year period to reach USD 14.7 bn by FY 2025. In the
women’s western wear category, innerwear has the biggest share with share of more than 55 percent in
FY 2020 and is expected to increase its share to 58 percent by FY 2025. Categories like tops, denim,
sleepwear and winterwear contributed 8-9 percent each in the overall women’s western wear segment
in FY 2020 and these segments are expected to continue their strong growth trajectory over the next 5-
year period as well.

India Fashion Market                                                                                27
Exhibit 3.23: Women’s Western Wear (including Innerwear) – FY 2020 & FY 2025 (USD bn & %)

                    FY 2020E                                              FY 2025P
             0.3 , 3%                                                                          Tops/shirts
                                                       0.4 , 3%
                                                                                               T-Shirts
      0.7 , 9%                                      1.0 , 7%
                                                                                               Denim
  0.3 , 3%                                        0.5 , 3%
                                                                                               Formal Jackets
                                                1.0 , 7%                                       Sleepwear
  0.7 , 8%
                                  4.4 ,                                    8.5 , 58%           Trousers/skirts
                                  55%           0.2 , 1%
  0.1 , 2%
                                                                                               Winterwear
                                                   1.3 , 9%
     0.6 , 8%                                                                                  Others

     0.3 , 4%                                                                                  Innerwear
                                                0.6 , 4%
                                                               1.1 , 8%
             0.6 , 8%

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Women’s Innerwear
Women’s innerwear category is currently estimated to be around USD 4.4 bn and is expected to grow at
a CAGR of 14 percent and nearly double by FY 2025 (USD 8.5 bn).

                                  Exhibit 3.24: Women’s Inner wear (USD bn)

                                                ~14%

                                                                              8.5

                            4.4

                          FY 2020E                                         FY 2025P

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Although this women’s innerwear market is complicated as compared to men’s with multiple width
(types) and depth (sizes, colours, styles) combinations but increase in the width & depth of online offerings
is expected to drive this segment. This segment is also expected to be driven by changing consumers
preference from ‘Foundation’ to ‘function plus fashion plus comfort’. Rising popularity of the fashion
range is also expected to drive the growth of this segment.
Women’s Ethnic Wear
The women’s ethnic wear market contributes nearly 70 percent of the overall women’s apparel category.
The market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 7.6 percent and grow from USD 16.8 bn in FY 2020 to USD

India Fashion Market                                                                                         28
24.3 bn in FY 2025. The salwar kameez/kurti is the biggest segment within women’s ethnic wear category
contributing nearly 50 percent of the market.
The disproportionate size of ethnic wear in women’s wear is an outcome of the distinct positioning of
ethnic wear for women compared to that of men in India. For Indian women, ethnic fashion is a
mainstream need for daily wear use (in addition to strong occasion wear) whereas for men it currently
restricted to occasion wear.
                                    Exhibit 3.25: Women’s Ethnic Wear Breakup

                                                                                                       1.5

                                                                          1.2                          13.9
                                               1.1
               0.9                             7.0                        8.6
               5.4
                                               6.5                        7.1                          9.0
               5.5

             FY 2015                         FY 2018                    FY 2020E                   FY 2025P

                                     Saree       Salwar Kameez /Kurti    Blouse/petticoat

 Source: Wazir Analysis
        Kids Wear Breakup
The kids wear market in India is currently about USD 14 bn (FY 2020) and is expected to grow at a CAGR
of 10.5 percent and grow to nearly USD 23 bn by FY 2025. Uniforms, t-shirts/shirts and bottom wear are
the three biggest categories contributing at 37 percent, 24 percent and 18 percent of the overall kids wear
market as on FY 2020. Kids denims is the showing the fastest growth rate of 13 percent among all the
other product categories (FY 2020 - FY 2025).
                                         Exhibit 3.26: Kid’s Wear Breakup

                                                                                                       2.1

                                                                                                       8.4

                                                                          1.5
                                                                                                       1.8
                                               1.3
                                                                          5.1
                1.0                            4.1                                                     4.1
                                                                          1.2                          0.6
                3.0                            1.0                        2.5
                0.8                            2.1                        0.3
                1.5                            0.3                                                     5.8
            0.2                                2.6                        3.3
                1.8
             FY 2015                         FY 2018                    FY 2020                   FY 2025

                       Tee/Shirts     Denim          Bottomwear   Winterwear       Uniforms   Others

 Source: Wazir Analysis

India Fashion Market                                                                                          29
3.4 Format & Channel
                                                      Exhibit 3.27: Channel Mix

                         2%                   3%                4%                 11%
                        26%                  27%
   (Market Share)

                                                               29%
                                                                                   30%

                        72%                  70%               67%                 59%

                       FY 2015             FY 2018           FY 2020E             FY 2025P

                                 Traditional Retail   Organized B&M     Online

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Traditional Retail Formats
While, the traditional retail expected to continue its domination in the apparel segment, but its
contribution is expected to come down from 67 percent in FY 2020 to 59 percent in FY 2025. This segment
is expected to grow the slowest between FY 2020 and FY 2025 (~7.2 percent) and reach USD 63 bn in FY
2025 from USD 45 bn in FY 2020.

                    Brick & Mortar Organised Formats
Organised retail trade has been growing steadily since the 1990’s and has steadily expanded its footprint
across the country. It started with manufacturers opening their own outlets and soon pure play retailers
realizing the potential got into this space. In the next phase international players got into the market, but
the reach of organised retail was still limited to metros and tier I cities. In the period after 2010, more
speciality formats entered the market and finally 2017 onwards, brands and retailers have been driving
to serve the customer in a seamless way across multiple channels, by adopting the omnichannel concept.

India Fashion Market                                                                                      30
Exhibit 3.28: Evolution of Brick & Mortar Fashion Retail

 Source: Wazir Analysis

Apparel & footwear have been the harbinger of organized retail in India. Brands such as Aditya Birla,
Arvind, Bata, Raymond and Vimal introduced the concept of exclusive brand retailing (EBO) to India and
until 1995, organized retail was synonymous with the EBO format. The organised brick & mortar was led
by and continues to be dominated by the lifestyle retail brands backed by large retail houses of India.
These lifestyle retail brands have succeeded in building a country wide footprint, and among these brands
Aditya Birla Fashion has one of the widest distribution network of apparel stores across the country.
Shoppers Stop started the first large format store (LFS) multi-brand outlet in mid-nineties triggering the
phase and expansion of multi-brand lifestyle retailing. A few years hence, Westside and Lifestyle also
started their private label led large format stores. This phase also witnessed,
    ▪ retail expansion by key brands: Arrow, Van Heusen, Raymond, Louis Philippe
    ▪ entry and footprint increase by international popular fashion brands: UCB, Levi’s, Nike, Adidas

The decade of ’00 to’10 was marked by the evolution of fashion into sharp segments of,
    • category specificity across formal, casual, ethnic, activewear, footwear
    • emergence of fashion brands and retailers, and hence private labels
    • multi-format play across EBO centric, LFS category specialist, LFS multi-brand formats.

The above phase was owing to increased focus and competitive intensity of the India fashion space with
the,
     • entry of large conglomerates into fashion retail with multi-category, multi-format play,

India Fashion Market                                                                                   31
•   fashion brands increasing focus on supply chain and category offering as well as
    •   leading international brands foraying into India
    •   development of brand aggregator models as Arvind Lifestyle, Genesis Lifestyle

All the above factors combined to propel the current decade (’11 to ’20) wherein organized retail is the
key enabler for growth of branded play within fashion. Today, organized apparel retail in India reflects a
journey of more than two decades that has allowed it to build product design, sourcing, merchandising
and retailing capabilities.
Leading retailers developed and invested in key functional elements accredited to retailing: design
institutionalization, assortment planning, retail foray, city penetration, skill training
The country has seen the entry of foreign brands in the country in last few years and more brands will
continue to enter in the few years and more brands will continue to enter in the country with 100% FDI
in single brand retail.
Indian lifestyle brands, however, leverage deep understanding of consumer trends, uniqueness of India
fashion market, enjoy consumer loyalty in addition to understanding of the geographical and regional
diversity of the country.
Domestic lifestyle apparel brands, Fabindia, Louis Philippe, Van Heusen, Raymond, Arrow, W, BIBA, AND,
Zara and Large Format Stores like Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Pantaloons will continue to adopt aggressive
penetration and foray into Tier I and II Indian cities in order to tap the potential. Pantaloons which is a
leading large format fashion retailer as well as a leading player in the value fashion segment, is engaged
in retailing of apparel and accessories.
Organised brick & mortar segment will see a steady growth rate of ~11.7 percent between FY 2015 and
FY 2025 and grow to about USD 32.6 bn by FY 2025.
        Online Formats
The share of online is currently ~4.5 percent of the overall apparel market. The share of online in the
overall apparel market is expected to increase in future but it won’t affect the share of brick & mortar
retail and both the channels will continue to co-exist.
The online market has grown manifold in recent years and witnessed the emergence of strong vertical
players with widespread geographical reach. However, the large retail houses will also be able to translate
the legacy and trust enjoyed by these brands when they move toward offline to online models.

India Fashion Market                                                                                    32
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