Lollipop Romper - Frocks & Frolics
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Sew & View Free Online Classes
Lollipop Romper
Welcome to the wonderful world of sewing! Make this beautiful romper with a little help from
Frocks & Frolics. Watch the detailed video covering all aspects of sewing and preparation. Then
use the comprehensive guide to work at your pace and learn a few tricks of the trade as well.
Marina is a professional tailor with 25 years experience in both teaching
and working in the fashion industry. She continues to provide educational
resources for everyone wanting to learn professional tailoring
techniques. Her patterns are available through frocksandfrolics.com
whilst the academy.frocksandfrolics.com provides the online resourses
and sewing courses to match.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com
Content
1
How to print the Pattern 2
Sewing with knit Fabrics 3
Romper Examples & Fabric Recommendations 4
Design Options 5
Measurement Chart 5
Fabric Requirements / Notions / Binding Length 6
Layplan 6
About the Pattern 7
Cutting out 8
Assembly: Binding Prep & Gusset 9
Assembly: Sleeve & Neckband 10
Assembly: Neckband 11
Assembly: Side Seam 11
Assembly: Cuffs 11/12
Assembly: Attaching the Binding 13
Tools for the Snap Insertion 14
Assembly: Inserting the Snaps 15
Facebook Group 16
Impressum 17
© 2019
2
The Frocks & Frolics System – Printing your Pattern
Welcome to my little world! I loved PDF patterns from the start, they are instant and you have access
to designers you wouldn’t normally even know about. The only snag is the massive waste of paper.
For some years I was the dressmaking tutor for Worcestershire and taught ladies far and wide how to
sew. Multi size patterns didn’t really work in a group setting. So, I came up with the idea of having one
file per size. I could just hand them out to my students in the size they needed. I put the kettle on, while
they cut out their patterns. Then we chatted as we assembled the patterns, in even the smallest of spaces.
Soon they were super fast at putting them together and didn’t want any other style of pattern anymore.
No kneeling on the floor trying to find your size in a sea of lines, little paper waste, it was just the ticket.
The PDF pattern is available in US letter size and DIN A4 size.
If you live in the US you need the letter size paper format
which is wider and shorter then the more commonly used
DIN A4 metric paper, which is used across the rest of the world. Letter Size DIN A4
Choose the format you are going to print, either letter size or DIN A4.
Ensure you print from your laptop or PC using Acrobat Reader DC as this ensures
it will print correctly. Pre-installed programs often reduce the size by a small
amount, which makes a big difference to the pattern. Adobe has an option:
‘shrink to fit’. Please disable it as it will also shrink the pattern.
Print at 100% or actual size. Print the first page with the test scale and check
the measurement. There are two scales, one which measures 1 inch for
customers working in Imperial and one measuring 5 cm for my customers
working with the Metric system. If the measurement is correct, print off the
rest of the pattern.
Pattern Assembly
The pattern pieces can be cut out as they are, no sizing needed, then they are
put together according to their little flower marker. A pink flower for the
back, a white flower for the front and a yellow flower for the sleeves. They
are put together in alphabetical order and clearly labeled as A, B, C etc. Each
size has its own assembly plan, so you can see at a glance which bits go together.
For all my patterns a seam allowance of 1 cm ( 3/8 of an inch) is included in
the pattern.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com
Sewing with Knit Fabric: 3
This romper can only be made in four way and two way stretch knit fabric. Four way stretch, stretches both
in length and width. Two way stretch will only stretch the width ways. This will work fine for this romper.
Because of their texture and the knitting process, knit fabrics can be more expensive than woven fabrics.
On the up they also are usually wider, so you get more out of your fabric.
For the body and sleeves you will generally get away with a cheaper knit fabric with reasonable stretch.
Always look for a high cotton fibre content. If you come across bamboo fibre it is absolutely awesome
and even better. It is the softest and most durable natural fibre which stays in shape wash after wash.
The second fibre in your knit fabric should be Elastane or Lycra. This adds durability and stretch to the
fabric. Look for 3-5% for the body of the romper. The exception to this rule is Interlock knit fabric in
100% cotton. Interlock is a knit fabric which looks the same from both sides. It feels slightly thicker
than your average knit fabric because two layers of knit are knitted together. Interlock can retain its
shape very well, without the added Lycra.
For the neckband and cuffs it is ever so important to have a knit with at least 50% stretch. When you buy
ribbing this is usually the case. Just stretch the fabric in the shop as far as it will go and if it returns to its
original shape it means it has good recovery and will work for this romper pattern. If the fabric leaves dents
and looses shape it is not suitable for neckbands or cuffs. To get the best possible knit fabric look for a
cotton / Spandex fibre composition.
Serger ?
For my rompers I used a standard sewing machine and a serger. If you have a fabulous Hobbylock which will
create a great seam as well as serge, then that will cut down the sewing time and look fabulous! Do consider
though that the seam allowance is 1 cm and the serging and sewing in one will only create a 0.7 cm seam. This
isn’t an issue but it will make the romper fit a little looser. To achieve my exact sizing, you would need to cut
off a little as you join the seams. If you do not have a serger at all, there is no need to finish off the seams
as knit won’t fray. If you are looking for a more polished look you can use pinking sheers to cut back the
seams.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com
4
Fabric Suggestions: Let’s get Inspired!
Let me show you a few examples we have made. Most of them are from the testers who sewed up a
storm and used a wide variety of fabrics.
Marina:
For my sample I chose a ribbed four way stretch for the sleeves cuffs and neckband.
It makes a nice statement and sets off the raglan sleeves. The body was made in 100%
cotton two way stretch knit. It is much better to choose a knit with 3-5% Lycra,
Elastan or Spandex. Having a little bit of stretch fibre will ensure that is washes well
and will keep its shape.
Trudi:
The black sleeves are from a new 100% cotton XXL Men’s t-shirt.
The checkers fabric is also a two way stretch 100% cotton. The cuffs
are made from ribbing with very good stretch recovery.
Eileen:
I used cotton spandex, sport active ribbing, this ribbing is
particularly stretchy. The neck ribbing size was great and easy to
remove over the babies head. My daughter in law loved the front
detail on the neck ribbing. My grandson is only 5 months but is taking
a size 6-9 months which is what I made and there is enough growing
room in length.
Margo:
I used 95% cotton 5% Spandex for the body and also the ribbing. The
fabric was very stable and worked well for both the romper body and
the neckline binding and cuffs.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com
5
Design Options
The romper gives you a few options to create different looks. Choosing a different color for the arms and
cuffs you can really make this little romper pop. Create your own look and share it with us in the Facebook
group, it is always an inspiration to see what everyone creates!
The classic look uses one For a playful look use a contrast My favorite combo!
fabric for body and sleeves knit for the sleeves and use
and a contrast for the cuffs Use the same knit or color for
the same knit fabric for the
and neckband. the sleeves, cuffs and neckline.
body and cuffs.
Size Chart
This pattern is for a romper from size newborn to age 2-3.
The chest taken under the arm.
Decide which size you need based on height. The chart gives
The hip measurement is taken
you the body measurement and the finished garment
around the widest part of the hips.
measurement (FGM).
Height Chest Hip
Age Chest Arm Length Sleeve Length Inside Leg
/ Seat
(Size) FGM
50 cm 39 cm 36 cm 17.5 cm 22 cm 14 cm 38 cm
Newborn
19,7” 15,3” 20,9” 6,9” 8,7” 5,5” 15”
56 cm 41 cm 39 cm 19.2 cm 24 cm 16 cm 41 cm
Newborn
22” 16,1” 15,3” 7,6” 9,4” 6,3” 16,1”
62 cm 43 cm 41 cm 22 cm 26 cm 21 cm 44 cm
0-3 Months
24,4” 16,9” 16,1” 8,7’’ 10,2” 8,3” 17,3”
68 cm 45 cm 43 cm 25 cm 30 cm 24 cm 47 cm
3-6 Months
26,8” 17,7” 16,9” 9,8” 11,8” 9,4” 18,5”
74 cm 47 cm 45 cm 26,5 cm 32 cm 26 cm 48 cm
6-9 Months
29,1” 18,5” 17,7” 10,4” 12,6” 10,2” 18,9”
9- 12 80 cm 50 cm 50 cm 27,5 cm 33 cm 31 cm 49 cm
Months 31,5” 19,7” 19,7” 10,8” 13” 12,2” 19,3”
12-18 86 cm 52 cm 52 cm 30 cm 35 cm 34 cm 51 cm
Months 33,9” 20,3” 20,3” 11,8” 13,8” 13,3” 20”
18-24 92 cm 54 cm 54 cm 32 cm 37 cm 38 cm 54 cm
Months 36,2” 21,2” 21,2” 12,6” 14,6” 15” 21,3”
98 cm 58 cm 58 cm 34 cm 40 cm 42 cm 57 cm
2-3 Years
38,6” 22,83” 22,83” 13,3” 15,7” 16,5” 22,4”
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com
6
Fabric Requirements & Layout Plans
Notions
Matching Thread 2 Reels
Open Ring Metal Snap Fasteners Size 9,5 mm 8 Sets (this includes four pieces per set)
1. Classic Romper Layout Plan
140 cm / 54 inches 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 98 104 (age 2-3
50 cm 55 cm 60 cm 70 cm 80 cm 80 cm 85 cm 85 cm 90 cm 90 cm
Body & Sleeves
19,7” 21,7” 23,6” 28” 32” 32” 34” 34” 36” 36”
20 cm
Cuffs & Neckband
8”
2. Classic Romper: Contrast Sleeves Layout Plan
140 cm / 54 inches 50 56 62 68 74 80 86 92 98 104 (age 2-3
40 cm 45 cm 50 cm 60 cm 70 cm 70 cm 80 cm 80 cm 90 cm 90 cm
Body & Cuffs
16” 17,7” 19,7” 23,6” 28” 28” 32” 32” 36” 36”
25 cm 25 cm 30 cm 35 cm 40 cm 40 cm 45 cm 45 cm 50 cm 50 cm
Neckband & Sleeves
10” 10” 12” 13,8” 16” 16” 17,7” 17,7” 19,7” 19,7”
The Back Binding:
There is no pattern piece for this. Please cut the binding width ways across the fabric to the length indicated
below. The width needs to be 5.5 cm (2,2 inches).
140 cm / 54 inches Size 50 Size 56 Size 62 Size 68 Size 74 Size 80 Size 86 Size 92 Size 98
Newborn Newborn 0-3 Months 3-6 Months 6-9 Months 9-12 Months 12-18 Months 18-24 Months 2-3 Years
32 cm 32 cm 37 cm 41 cm 45 cm 50 cm 55 cm 61 cm 66 cm
Binding Length 12,6” 12,6” 14,6” 16,1” 17,7” 19,7” 21,7” 24” 26”
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com
7
The Pattern in Detail
Front Back
The front has to be cut on the The back is also cut on the fold and is one
fold. It is just one piece. The piece. The back pieces are always marked
front pieces are always marked with a pink flower.
with a white flower.
Cut 1 x on the fold
Cut 1 x on the fold
Sleeve Cuffs
This sleeve only comes in the long There are two cuff patterns. The ankle
version. If you prefer it short, just cuff and the wrist cuff. Both need to be
shorten to your taste. Make sure cut twice. If you are using ribbed fabric
you mark the front of the sleeves. makes sure the ribs run with the cuff and
not across.
Cut 2 x (cut a pair / mirror
Cut 2 x each
image)
Gusset Front Facing
The gusset wraps from the back to This is the area that will hold one part of
the front and releases the tension the snap closure and needs to be firm. If
in the crotch. Mark the center. your fabric is very lightweight you may
This is also the edge which is want to interface the facing to add some
inserted into the crotch. support.
Cut 1 x Cut 1 x on the fold
Neckband Snap
Position
The neckband is shaped a little
This pattern piece is NOT cut in
like a collar at both ends. When
fabric. It is merely your guide to
we overlap the two fronts it
positioning the snaps.
enables the neckband to sit
smartly against the neck.
Cut 1 x
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com
8
CUTTING OUT
Selvedge
Fold
Fold over the fabric as much as is needed, so you don’t waste precious fabric. The seam allowance of 1 cm
is included! If you are lucky enough to have a serger which sews the seam at the same time, then you can
do that but bear in mind that you have to cut off 3 mm to end up with the same seam allowance! The back
and front are both placed on the fold. The directional arrows should have the same distance to the selvedge
to ensure the grain runs straight down the garment.
Cut any piece with the scissors to the left of the pattern piece. Your left hand can then hold the fabric
and aid the cutting process. When you are cutting around a curve, use the tip of the scissors to avoid
accidentally cutting too far. When cutting ribbed knit ensure the rib runs along the cuff rather than across.
Ensure that you cut two mirror image sleeves. When all pieces are cut out, mark the center back (CB) and
the center front (CF). Make sure you also mark the front of the sleeve. You also need to cut the binding
for the back legs. Please refer to the chart on page 6 for the length of the binding. The width should be
5.5 cm (2,2 inches).
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com
9
PREP: BINDING & GUSSET
Cut a 5.5 cm (2,2 inches) wide strip of binding. Serge down one side leaving the other rough. Turn in the rough
side 1 cm. Fold over the turned in side and place it on the serged edge. Press with lots of steam.
Mark the top of the gusset. This is going to be attached to the inner leg. Line up the center of the gusset
and the leg. Pin into place stopping about 0.7 cm from either end. This will make it easier to attach the binding
later.
Close the seam stopping 0.7 cm from the edge and serge the seam. Iron the seam towards the body middle.
When the gusset is folded up, it will fit the front curve perfectly.
Serge around the outer edge of the facing. Pin the facing to the inner leg of the front romper. Sew into place
with 1 cm seam allowance. Cut back the seam. Fold the seam allowance towards the facing and understitch the
seam. This means stitching on top of the facing, close to the seam line catching the seam allowance in the process.
Now iron the facing. The understitching creates a beautiful edge which is easy to iron and also prevents stretching.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com10
RAGLAN SLEEVES
Close the sleeve seams. Place the front sleeve edge on the front arm edge, with right sides facing each other.
It is advisable to mark the front sleeve with a snip so you can’t get confused. If in doubt remember that the
front sleeve edge is a little bit shorter than the back sleeve edge. Sew the seams with a regular stitch.
With most knit fabrics it will automatically stretch a little, so no stretching is necessary. Serge the seam
cutting off some of the seam allowance. Your serger will have a mark on the presser foot indicating where
the seam needs to be lined up. Iron the seams into the sleeves.
Topstitching the seam is optional but it does look awesome on a raglan. The key is to pull the seam slightly
apart whilst sewing. Stitch 2 mm off the seam line and use a long stitch length such as 3.5 or even 4. Using
plenty of steam, iron the sleeves.
THE NECKBAND
Fold over the neckband lengthways in half. Overlap the tips as indicated on the pattern and secure with a few
stitches.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com11
Mark the center front and center back of the romper. Turn the romper inside out. Insert the neckband
into the neck opening. Align the center front and back of the neckband with the center front and back of
the romper. Pin all the way round. Adjust the sewing machine stitch to triple stitch and reduce the tension
to 4. This will create a seam which will stretch.
Sew with a foot width seam allowance. Stretch the neckline as you go. Serge all the way around. Again,
make sure you stretch the neckline so you have enough stretch to get the head through! Steam the neckline
until it sits smoothly in the neckline opening.
Close the side seam with a 1 cm seam allowance. Pin the underarm seams first. Serge / overlock the
seam trimming the seam. If you have a serger which does serging and seaming in one you can just serge
this seam.
THE CUFFS
The ankle cuffs are closed only on one side. Fold the cuffs in half lengthways with the right sides facing each
other. Sew only one edge together. At the tip sew slightly inwards to avoid a pointy nose in the corner. Iron
the cuffs.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com12
The wrist cuff is closed completely. Fold width ways in half and sew together. Iron the seam apart and cut
back the seam allowance. Then fold over the top edge so that you have two rough edges and one smooth upper
edge.
Place the wrist cuffs in the sleeve and align the underarm seam with the cuff seam. Stretch to fit and pin.
Sew in the cuff using a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Serge the seam, stretching lightly as you go.
Steam the cuff first still sitting in the sleeve and then turned out. That way any stretch will be ironed back
in and it will sit smoothly. Now take the ankle cuff and attach the finished side to the edge of the front facing.
The open edge will be stretched to sit exactly on the rough edge of the inner back leg. Stretch to fit and pin.
Sew into place using a standard stitch and stretch as you sew. Fold over the front facing, sandwiching the cuff
in and sew. Serge the edge and cut back the corner. Turn and iron with much steam.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com13
There will be a slight gathered appearance, where the cuff is attached. The facing wraps around neatly and
finishes off the cuff. Before we can go on we must topstitch the front facing down. The metal snaps will hold
this part but it looks much nicer if it is topstitched first. Stitch 2 cm off the edge. Iron, ensuring nothing is
stretched.
ATTACHING THE BINDING
The binding is simply slotted over the rough edge. It sits right in the fold. Make sure you have the ends hanging
over the edge by 1 cm. The serged edge is caught when we topstitch the binding to the inner back leg. Where
it wraps around the gusset it will cause a little puckering. Don’t stretch the binding in this area, the little extra
can easily be steamed back in. If you stretch it, the binding will not lie flat!
Topstitch either with a twin needle or a standard needle. I don’t particularly enjoy re-threading, so I just
stitched close to the edge and then a little further over mimicking the twin needle stitch appearance.
Finally fold over the rough edge to the cuff underside and sew into place. Finally cut it back right to the
stitching line.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com14
INSERTING THE SNAPS
Buying small quantities of snaps is incredibly expensive. I would therefore recommend that you really
stock up on a higher quantity selection from Amazon. They cost a fraction of the price you pay for the
small quantities by Dritz. Most kits will include a set of pliers which really doesn’t work. Here Dritz pliers
are worth their price and they work with the cheap snaps very well too. You can use the links below to
see the products which will work with the Dritz pliers. (Links are for Amazon US)
Dritz Pliers 200 Sets Snap 200 Sets Snap Fasteners Kit 200 Sets Snap Fasteners Kit
Amazon US Fasteners Kit 9 mm (not (9,5 mm) (9,5 mm)
available in 9.5 mm)
The Pliers
In my search for some great pliers I did try the pliers which came with the sets linked above. None of them
worked at all. So from my experience I would go for the Dritz pliers every time. I would love to hear from
you if you have used other equipment you thought was worth a mention.
The Pliers
The Pro Master leather hole punch works for all your hole punching needs.
I have tried many others which did not work. This one is awesome. If you are
still looking, look no further!
As always I want to point out that I am not getting paid for my
recommendations. I recommend a product, when I use it myself and like it.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com15
Inserting the Snaps
To insert the snaps you need a textile
marker or tailors chalk to mark the
position of the snaps.
Take your snap positioning template and punch a hole through the center of each snap position. Fold the front
in half. Place the template over the top, edge to edge and mark each snap position.
Position the prong, into the red prong holder. Position the stud, ball side facing down, in the blue stud/socket
holder. Insert the snap into the facing. The pronged part faces the upper side of the front. Make sure
that the snap sits right in the center between the edge of the crotch and the top stitching.
Place the back binding and the front facing on top of each other, fold back the front facing and mark the
snap position on the underside of the binding. Position the socket, raised center out, in blue stud/socket
holder. Position the prong in the red prong holder. Insert the snaps as marked.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com16
Our Facebook Group Join us and have some fun sewing and
chatting
If at any point while sewing this pattern you run into trouble and need helpful tips, find the ‘Frocks &
Frolics Sewing Circle’ on Facebook. I have got to know so many of you through the group and its making
the job of creating patterns such an enjoyable task.
Your comments telling me you appreciate the detail and work that goes into making a pattern, which fits
super and looks great too, is what keeps me going! But remember if you run into problems and tell me
about it, I can make my patterns even better! So thank you for all your support. Below I wanted to share
some of the fantastic tester makes!
Just a few of the beautiful rompers we made during testing!
A big thank you to all my testers, who made this project run so smoothly! Elaine, Diane, Margo,
Karin, Ela, Sarah, Frieda and Trudi!
I can’t wait to see more of your ideas. When you post on Instagram please add #frocksandfrolics,
#frocksandfrolicsromper, #rompersewingpattern, #romperpattern, #pdfsewingpattern.
© 2019 frocksandfrolics.com17
Impressum
Producer: Frocks & Frolics
Photography: Ela Berbic Brown
Model: Victoria Brown
Testers: Trudi Babich, Eileen McCallum,
Editing: Rabia Atiq, Margo Kelly Strabo
Contact: frocksandfrolicsflowergirls@gmail.com
Address: S. Genessee Ave
Los Angeles
USA
Website: frocksandfrolics.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Frocks-Frolics-156118561138703/
Frocks and Frolics Sewing Circle: https://www.facebook.com/groups/733648706761805/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/frocksandfrolics/
Please share what you make on Instagram #frocksandfrolics #frocksandfrolicsromper
#frocksandfrolicsromper #romper #rompersewingpattern and @frocksandfrolics in the
comment you make.
Thank you its very much appreciated.
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