Greyt Craft Patterns Greyhound Manor Crafts
←
→
Page content transcription
If your browser does not render page correctly, please read the page content below
..
..
..
..
..
Greyhound Manor Crafts
Greyt
. . Craft
. . . . . . . .
Patterns
Crafts for You and Your Greyhound
(Can Be Scaled To Other Breeds)
PERMISSION TO COPY:
Feel free to print, copy and distribute these instructions as you'd like. You can print all or part of them in newsletters
or whatever. You can change them as you'd like or reformat them so they're easier to reproduce. We would prefer
the courtesy of a credit if you do reprint them, but it's not essential. Just hug those hounds.
Copyright 1996-2000, Greyhound Manor Crafts, Jack & Amy Corrigan, P.O. Box 206, New Berlinville, PA 19545,
(610) 367 – 9551, bark@greyhoundmanor.com (www.greyhoundmanor.com)
Hound Coat ........................................................................................................1 Hooded Hound Coat .........................................................................................4 Paw Protectors and Hound Boots .................................................................7 Traditional Cool Coat .......................................................................................9 Hi-Tech Chamois Cool Coat ......................................................................... 11 Experimental Cool Snood ............................................................................ 12 Ear-Warming Snood ...................................................................................... 14 Greygirl Floral Wreath Hat ............................................................................ 15 Greyguy Sporty Irish Cap ............................................................................ 16 Greygirl Pillbox Hat ........................................................................................ 17 Greygirl TuTu .................................................................................................. 19 Greyguy Tuxedo ............................................................................................. 20 Dog Waste Composting Bin......................................................................... 25 Greyhound Slate ............................................................................................ 28 Wooden Greyhound Folk Art ....................................................................... 30 Greyt Sayings ................................................................................................. 32 Jingle Collars .................................................................................................. 33
..
..
..
..
.. Materials Needed
5" strip of 2" wide sew-on velcro
(or 10" strip of 1" wide velcro)
30" x 36" piece of outer fabric
Hound Coat
30" x 36" piece of inner fabric
OPTIONAL (for applique): paper-
backed sewable fusible web
OPTIONAL (for applique): accent
fabric •
Large sheet of paper or a paper bag
cut open (for pattern)
Step 1: Measure Hound and
Make Full-size Pattern
First, measure your hound in these three places and
write down the measurements.
Length - From where the neck bends
and becomes the back to where the
Our hound coats are very popular. The design is tail starts (usually 26" - 30")
very flattering to the build of a greyhound. They Girth - Biggest distance around the
stay put very well, even on fidgety dogs. They're chest, just behind the front legs
easy to put on and take off when made with the (usually 28" - 32")
single velcro fastener described here. (The photo Width - Distance across chest as you
shows two ties, but we suggest you go with the look straight on at the hound (usually
velcro.) Oh, yes, and, they keep your hound warm-- 6"-9")
the purpose of a coat.
We make these out of any kind of fabric we find,
but have had the best luck with heavy
upholstery/decorating fabric and winter wool
blends. Consider odd sources of fabric, such as old
blankets, drapes or rugs. It sounds weird, but these
are typically thick heavy fabrics that wear and wash
well. And they're warm.
Throughout these instructions we refer to the inner
fabric and the outer fabric. The coats actually end up
fully reversible, so this is just to make it easier to
explain what's going on. You'll probably never Next, take a large sheet of paper and draw out your
actually reverse it if you're using a woolie fleece for pattern similar to the one above, but to the size you
one side, but it's a cool feature if you're making a measured on your hound. Don't worry about
spring/fall-weight coat and can't decide which color matching the drawing above exactly. Generally, you
looks best on your hound. want the coat full around the chest and you want it to
taper as it moves toward the rear. If you're worried
Time about butt coverage, don't taper quite as much as you
head toward the tail. The rounded corners on the tail
Each coat takes 45 minutes to make if it doesn't have end add a very nice look and make later steps easier.
an applique. With an applique, a coat takes 60-90
minutes. I don't pin stuff and my patterns are already To figure out the X measurement in the drawing
made, so it may take you slightly longer, especially above, subtract 5 inches from your hound's girth, then
for your first coat. divide the result by 2.
Now take the pattern to your hound. This is a tough
job, but worth the effort. Hold the pattern in place
along the hound's spine and make sure the coat falls
as you would like. Make sure the butt is covered.
Step 3: Construct Chest Strap
Make sure the coat is long enough for the hound. Place the two 4 1/2" x 6" rectangles right-sides
Make sure the coat will cover the chest but not drown together. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, stitch along
it. If you need to make changes, do it now--even if both of the long sides of the rectangles, forming a
you have to do the pattern over. Once you get a tube. Turn the tube right side out and iron. Top-stitch
perfect pattern for your hound, you'll never have to the tube with a 1/4" seam allowance along the long
go through this again. sides of the rectangle.
Step 2: Cut Fabric Step 4: Construct Stomach Straps
Fold the inner fabric in half. Place the long straight Place one inner fabric and one outer fabric 5 1/2"
side of the pattern along the fold. You can put a few square right-sides together. Using a 1/4" seam
pins in at this point if you'd like, but I don't. I just allowance, stitch along three sides of the square,
hold the pattern in place while I cut. Precision is not forming a pocket. Repeat this for the other two
that important here. squares. Turn the pockets right side out. You can top-
THIS IS IMPORTANT! Allow 1/4" - 1/2" extra stitch these at this point, but I find it unnecessary.
around the pattern as you cut the fabric. This will be Trim the velcro to be 1/8" shorter than the pocket on
your seam allowance. If I know I'll be topstitching each side. Place the fuzzy side (as opposed to the
(which I do with all but the bulkiest fabrics), I go hook side) of the 2" velcro on the inner fabric about
with a 1/4" seam allowance. Otherwise I go with 1/8" from the sewn edges and top-stitch into place. (If
1/2". you are using the 1" velcro, cut two pieces and place
Next, fold the outer fabric in half. Don't use the them side by side and stitch into place.)
pattern to cut the outer fabric. Instead, use the folded Read this carefully. It's where I sometimes get mixed
inner fabric as the pattern. This will assure you that up. Place the hook side of the 2" velcro on the
the two sides will match perfectly. Cut the outer OUTER fabric of the other stomach strap and top-
fabric to match the inner fabric shape. (NOTE: If stitch into place. (If you are using the 1" velcro, cut
you're doing an applique on a coat with a woolie two pieces and place them side by side and stitch into
fleece inner fabric, you should do the applique now. place.)
Jump to Step 8 for a few tips on appliques.)
Now cut the chest strap pieces. This will go across Step 5: Sew Coat
the chest just in front of the front legs. Cut a 4 1/2" x
6" rectangle from the inner fabric. Cut the same size
rectangle from the outer fabric. (Increase the size to
5" x 6" if you're using a 1/2" seam allowance or the
woolie fleece.)
Finally, cut the stomach strap pieces. Cut two 5 1/2"
squares of the inner fabric and two 5 1/2" squares of
the outer fabric. (If you're working with a bulky inner
fabric such as woolie fleece, use the outer fabric for
all 4 of these pieces.)
Unfold and align the inner and outer coat pieces,
right sides together with the inner fabric on the
bottom. Place the chest strap about 1/2" from the
collar corner as shown in the diagram above. Place it
with the inner fabric down. Place it between the inner
and outer coat pieces. Use two pins to hold it in
place.
Next place the stomach straps in between the inner
and outer coat pieces. We made these bigger than
they needed to be, so they will stick out of the coat.
2
.
.
.
.
(This allows you to make adjustments later if NOTE: If you're doing a coat with a woolie fleece
needed.) When placing these, you . want to make sure inner fabric, you should have added the applique
they'll fall behind the front legs..On males, you want back in Step 2.
these as close to the front legs as. possible to avoid
. the inner fabric
tinkle damage. Place the straps with
If you are going to applique an initial or running
hound or other shape to the coat, I'd suggest doing it
down. (Don't think about the velcro. if you can avoid
it, or you'll confuse yourself. Just put them with the
now. That way the applique will show on both sides
of the coat. It's also easier to work with the coat
inner fabric down. If you used the same fabric for
before the chest strap is fully attached. Now the coat
both sides of the straps, put one with the velcro up
lies flat. Later it will be more difficult to maneuver
and one with the velcro down.) Allow about an inch
through your machine.
of each strap to extend out of the coat as shown
above. If you have to make adjustments later, this To make an applique, iron the paper-backed sewable
will be the place, so I just allow for it from the start. fusible web to the wrong side of your accent fabric.
Pin the straps into place. Then draw your shape. (If you're doing an initial, be
sure to draw it as a mirror image if you draw on the
If you're one who likes to pin stuff, pin all the way
paper.) Cut the shape out and remove the paper.
around the coat. I find that I only need to pin the
Position the applique on the coat and iron into place.
chest and stomach straps in place to get a good result.
Use a very tightly space zigzag stitch (satin stitch) to
Now sew the two pieces together. You'll leave a 4-5" go around the edge of your applique. Tie off ends of
opening near the collar. This will allow you to turn threads.
the coat right side out and do the final chest strap
adjustments. Start sewing at the dot indicated on the Step 9: Topstitch and
diagram. (This will be 1/2" from the collar corner on
the side of the coat that DOESN'T have the chest Connect Chest Strap
strap pinned in place.) Sew around almost the entire Poke the dangling end of the chest strap into the coat
coat, sewing over the chest and stomach straps to trap body to the point you marked earlier. Use two pins to
them in place. Stop when you get to the second dot hold it in place. Make sure the seams are folded
noted on the diagram. This will be 4-5" from the neatly on both sides and that they match up so that
point where you started sewing. the top stitch will catch both pieces of fabric.
Top stitch around the entire coat, starting just before
Step 6: Turn Right Side Out & Press the pins that hold the chest strap in place. The
Clip all curves, then turn the coat right side out. Press topstitching should be 1/4" from the edge of the coat.
the seam all around the coat. Be sure to press the Continue around the entire coat, then stitch over the
seam for the opening in the coat. This will make the chest strap a second time (just for good measure).
next step easier. That's it. You're done. Now take that fashionable
hound for a walk. You both deserve it!
Step 7: Test Drive the Coat and
Mark the Straps Variation
Don't skip this step. Take the coat to your hound and This variation was submitted by Leslie Nicoll
try it on. Make sure the stomach straps are an (lnicoll@maine.rr.com). Sounds pretty interesting.
appropriate length to fit snuggly but not too tightly.
Check the length of the coat. (You can make the coat I modified the basic hound coat slightly so that
instead of having a strap across the front chest to
shorter, but not longer at this point.)
close it, it has a seam there (the head opening is a
Pull the chest strap across the hound's chest and mark hole that the dog can stick his/her head right
where the seam should lie for a perfect fit. Don't through). I thought the end result looked very nice
worry if the chest strap is a few inches too long. You but the actual sewing of the neck was a little trickier
can trim it to a proper length before the final sewing. (not really hard for anyone who knows how to sew
but might be confusing for some people).
If you need to adjust anything, turn the coat wrong
side out, pull out the necessary stitches and do it now.
You'll thank yourself later, believe me.
Step 8: OPTIONAL: Add Appliques
3
..
..
..
..
..
Hooded Hound Coat Step 1: Measure Hound and
Make Full-size Pattern
First, measure your hound in these four places and
write down the measurements.
Length - From where the neck bends
and becomes the back to where the
tail starts (usually 26" - 30")
Girth - Biggest distance around the
chest, just behind the front legs
(usually 28" - 32")
Width - Distance across chest as you
look straight on at the hound (usually
6"-9")
Neck Length - Distance from where
the neck bends and becomes the back
over the head to the eyes.
This hooded hound coat pattern was derived from a
drawing in a magazine from 1910. I doubt that they
had the benefit of velcro and plastic drawstring
stoppers, but the design is quite flattering to the build
of the greyound. When done in velvety fabric, your
hound will take on a wonderful Victorian look. When
done in upholstery fabric with fleece inside, it will be
a real cold-buster. They stay put very well, even on
fidgety dogs. They're easy to put on and take off
when made with the single velcro fastener and Next, take a large sheet of paper and draw out your
drawstring stopper described here. Oh, yes, and, they pattern similar to the one above, but to the size you
keep your hound warm--the purpose of a coat. measured on your hound. Don't worry about
matching the drawing above exactly. Generally, you
Using velvety or plush fabrics with satin inside will want the coat full around the chest and rear and
result in a stunning, although not very warm, look for thinner in the stomach region. The rounded corners
your hound. on the tail end add a very nice look and make later
steps easier.
Time To figure out the X measurement in the drawing
Each coat takes me 60-90 minutes to make. I don't above, divide your hound's girth by 2, then subtract 3
pin stuff and my patterns are already made, so it may inches.
take you slightly longer, especially for your first coat. Now take the pattern to your hound. This is a tough
job, but worth the effort. Hold the pattern in place
Materials Needed along the hound's spine and make sure the coat falls
as you would like. Make sure the butt is covered.
5" strip of 2" wide sew-on velcro (or
Make sure the coat is long enough for the hound.
10" strip of 1" wide velcro)
Make sure the coat will cover the chest but not drown
1 Plastic Drawstring Stopper (most it. Hold the neck piece to your hound's neck. Verify
fabric stores have these, but they're that it will loosely make it around your hounds neck.
small and hard to find without asking) Don't worry if the neck seems too long. You will be
2 foot piece of string or ribbon for folding it over to allow for the drawstring. If you
drawstring need to make changes, do it now--even if you have to
1 yard of outer fabric do the pattern over. Once you get a perfect pattern for
1 yard of inner fabric your hound, you'll never have to go through this
Large sheet of paper or a paper bag again.
cut open (for pattern)
.
.
.
.
Step 2: Cut Fabric . Step 4: Sew Body of Coat
Fold the inner fabric in half. Place. the long straight
side of the pattern pieces for the.body and the neck
along the fold. You can put a few . pins in at this point
. the pattern in
if you'd like, but I don't. I just hold
place while I cut. Precision is not that important here.
THIS IS IMPORTANT! Allow 1/4" - 1/2" extra
around the pattern as you cut the fabric. This will be
your seam allowance. If I know I'll be top-stitching
(which I do with all but the bulkiest fabrics), I go
with a 1/4" seam allowance. Otherwise I go with Unfold and align the inner and outer coat pieces,
1/2". right sides together with the inner fabric on the
bottom. Place the stomach straps in between the inner
Next, fold the outer fabric in half. Don't use the and outer coat pieces. We made these bigger than
pattern to cut the outer fabric. Instead, use the folded they needed to be, so they will stick out of the coat.
inner fabric pieces as the pattern. This will assure you (This allows you to make adjustments later if
that the two sides will match perfectly. Cut the outer needed.) When placing these, you want to make sure
fabric to match the inner fabric shape. they'll fall behind the front legs. On males, you want
Finally, cut the stomach strap pieces. Cut two 5 1/2" these as close to the front legs as possible to avoid
x 7" rectangle of the inner fabric and two of the outer tinkle damage. Place the straps with the inner fabric
fabric. (If you're working with a bulky inner fabric down. (Don't think about the velcro if you can avoid
such as woolie fleece, use the outer fabric for all 4 of it, or you'll confuse yourself. Just put them with the
these pieces. It's yucky working with velcro on inner fabric down. If you used the same fabric for
fleece.) both sides of the straps, put one with the velcro up
and one with the velcro down.) Allow about an inch
of each strap to extend out of the coat as shown
Step 3: Construct Stomach Straps above. If you have to make adjustments later, this
Place one inner fabric and one outer fabric 5 1/2" x will be the place, so I just allow for it from the start.
7" rectangle right-sides together. Using a 1/4" seam Pin the straps into place.
allowance, stitch along three sides, leaving a 5 1/2" If you're one who likes to pin stuff, pin all the way
edge open, forming a pocket. Repeat this for the other around the coat. I find that I only need to pin the
two squares. Turn the pockets right side out. You can stomach straps in place to get a good result.
top-stitch these at this point, but I find it unnecessary.
Now sew the two pieces together. You'll leave the
Trim the velcro to be 1/8" shorter than the pocket on chest straps and neck unsewn. This will allow you to
each side. Place the fuzzy side (as opposed to the add the neck. Start sewing as indicated on the
hook side) of the 2" velcro on the inner fabric about diagram. Sew around almost the entire coat, sewing
1/8" from the sewn edges and top-stitch into place. (If over the stomach straps to trap them in place. Stop as
you are using the 1" velcro, cut two pieces and place indicated on the diagram.
them side by side and stitch into place.)
Clip curves and turn right side out.
Read this carefully. It's where I sometimes get
mixed up. Place the hook side of the 2" velcro on the Don't skip this step. Take the coat to your hound and
OUTER fabric of the other stomach strap and top- try it on. Make sure the stomach straps are an
stitch into place. (If you are using the 1" velcro, cut appropriate length to fit snuggly but not too tightly.
two pieces and place them side by side and stitch into Check the length of the coat. (You can make the coat
place.) shorter, but not longer at this point.)
Pull the chest strap across the hound's chest and mark
where the seam should lie for a perfect fit. Don't
worry if the chest strap is a few inches too long. You
can trim it to a proper length before the final sewing.
If you need to adjust anything, turn the coat wrong
side out, pull out the necessary stitches and do it now.
You'll thank yourself later, believe me.
5
Step 5: Sew Neck Parts Together Step 9: Connect Chest Strap
Unfold the two neck parts and place them with right
sides together. Sew along the straight edge opposite You can do part of this step with the machine, but
the point as shown in the diagram. Open the you will also have to do some hand-stitching. You
assembly you've just sewn. Fold it in half lengthwise can stitch this entire section by hand if you'd like. All
with right sides together. Stitch along the shorter of that is left is to connect the seams that will form the
the long sides as shown in the diagram. Turn this chest strap in the front of the coat. Put right sides of
assembly right side out. Remember that you'll have the outer fabric together and start stitching. You will
right sides on both the inside of the neck and the soon hit the inner fabric, which you want to also
outside of the neck when the coat is finished. For place with right sides together. Eventually you'll get
now, turn the whole thing right side out. to a point where you'll have to topstitch the seam to
fully close it. The final shape of the coat is shown in
Step 6: Sew Neck To Body the diagram above.
This part is confusing and it will seem like it's not
going to work. It always does, though. Really. Take Step 10: Feed Drawstring Through
the point of the neck piece with the right side of the Make two small slits in folded over drawstring
inner fabric. Place it on the point of the body against channel. Make the slits in the inside of the neck. Use
the right side of the inner fabric. The points will point a safety pin on the end of the drawstring to feed it
in opposite directions when you hold them together. through the channel of the hood. Slip the plastic
Just line up the fabric edges to allow for the proper drawstring stopper onto the drawstring and tie knots
seam allowance. Now start sewing. In all, you will in the end of the drawstrings. I usually let the
sew four edges. Make sure you're always attaching drawstrings hang about 4 inches on each side when
inner fabric to inner fabric and outer fabric to outer the hood is fully open. This is plenty if your using the
fabric. You will have to do some weird turns when drawstring stopper. If you're just going to tie the
you get to the points for the outer fabric. Just line up hood, you'll need to leave a longer drawstring.
the fabric edges to allow for your seam allowance
and you'll be fine.
Step 11: OPTIONAL
Step 7: Turn Right Side Out & Press Make Leash Slit
Clip near the points, then turn the coat right side out. Some people like to put their hound's collar on the
(You're actually only turning the neck at this point. outside of the hood for walks to maximize warmth.
Press the seams all around the coat. They don't like a gaping slit for a leash letting air
inside the coat. If you're one of those, you're done.
Step 8: Make Drawstring Channel Others like to have the collar on the inside, close to
the hound's neck. If you're one of those, you'll need to
Fold the end of the neck over toward the inside about add an extra-long button hole to the coat so the leash
an inch and stitch in place to form the channel for the can be attached while the coat is on your hound. The
drawstring. leash slit should be at least 2 inches long and is better
if it's 3 inches long to allow for play in the leash and
collar. The slit should be placed in the neck part of
the coat, an inch or two from the point formed on the
top of the coat where the neck meets the body.
That's it. You're done. Now take that fashionable
hound for a walk. You both deserve it!
6
. ..
. ..
. ..
. ..
. .. Time
. Each set of paw protectors takes about 30 minutes to
. make.
. and
Paw Protectors
. Materials Needed
Hound Boots 1/4 yard of strong, non-slip fabric
such as cordura nylon, pack cloth,
upholstery fabric or suede.
Four 4-inch lengths of 1-inch sewable
velcro.
Paw Protector Instructions
1. Cut 8 pieces of fabric in the shape shown
below. Each piece should be about 4 1/4 inches
wide and 7 ½ inches tall.
2. Sew the scratchy side of the velcro to the
right side of 4 of the shapes about 4 ½ inches
from the rounded end. The scratchy side of the
velcro should face up.
Did you know that the salt used to keep roads and 3. Form four sandwiches with right sides
sidewalks clear in the winter can be harmful to your together. Each sandwich should contain one
hound‟s paws? Ever noticed your hound doing the piece with velcro and one piece without. In
"cold foot shuffle" when you‟re walking him in the between these two pieces of fabric, insert the
winter? Maybe you need to whip up a set of these fuzzy side of the velcro with the fuzzy side
simple paw protectors or hound boots. facing away from the scratchy side of the velcro.
These simple-to-make paw protectors are great for: 4. Sew around all but the short side of the boot,
Keeping paws dry for those hounds using a ½ seam allowance. Catch one edge of the
who don‟t like getting their feet wet in fuzzy side of the velcro in the seam, but leave the
the rain •Protecting paws when other edge free.
walking on rough or uneven surfaces
Protecting paws from the heat of
pavement
Protecting paws from salt and other
chemicals used to melt ice
Keeping paws warm when walking in
snowy or icy conditions
Preventing damage from scratching
when medical conditions such as skin
allergies arise.
7
ones pictured here have a decorative fur trim to really
make a fashion statement. Each set of winter boots
takes 30 - 60 minutes to make, depending upon
materials and embellishments.
To make the winter boots, follow the paw protector
instructions, but make 4 of the shapes (for the front
feet) 12 ½ inches tall rather than 7 ½ inches. For best
results, use two strips of velcro; one at 4 ½ inches
from the toe to be just above the first joint and one at
7 inches from the toe to be just above the second
joint.
5. Turn each assembly right-side out. Fold top
edge over twice (once will do for suede) and The four shapes for boots for the back paws should
topstitch to form finished edge on each boot. be 16 ½ inches tall with velcro 4 ½ inches from the
6. To test the boots, slip them on to your toe and 12 inches from the toe.
hound‟s foot with the velcro side facing forward.
Wrap the free piece of velcro TIGHTLY around
your hound‟s leg. It should fall above the "wrist
or ankle" joint for best results. Now take a test
walk. Paw protectors may twist on the foot, but
should not fall off.
Winter Hound Boots
The small paw protectors may fall off in deep snow,
never to be found until Spring. They also have a
tendency to twist while on the hound‟s foot. If you
find this annoying, try making full hound boots. The
8.. .
.. .
.. .
.. .
.. . wetdown coat on their web site.) Judy Price
(jtpri@aol.com) and Kathy Johnson
. (kjohnson@ddc.com) contributed great tips for the
. traditional cool coat made from a towel. Alison
Traditional . Brendel (brendel@vetmed.wsu.edu)contributed the
. idea about using chamois instead of terry cloth. Ellie
in CT (audice@aol.com) suggests that the velour
Cool Coat towels hold more water than the standard terry cloth.
Kate Bressler (k8nkc@qni.com)contributed some
greyt fastening ideas. Jackie Phyfe (jdfife@snet.net)
contributed the idea of adding pockets to hold ice or
sponges. Janet Stinson (greycoats@webtv.net)
inspired the search for a lightweight, highly-
absorbant fabric for the experimental model (which
led to Handi-Wipes).
Traditional Cool Coat
This is the traditional cool coat made out of an old
towel. It's best to use the cheap towels rather than the
over-sized, luxurious ones. Rumor has it that the
velour towels will hold more water, so will keep your
hound cooler for a longer period of time. When
Greyhounds cannot sweat through their skin to selecting your towel, be sure to choose a light color
release heat as humans do. Therefore, your hound so the sun is reflected rather than absorbed into the
pants. Excessive panting is a sure sign your pet is coat.
overheated. Other signs include bright red gums, lack
of coordination and overall physical weakness. The stomach straps are a full 10 inches wide,
Heatstroke can cause your hound to collapse. providing evaporation action in the chest area. Since
the blood runs closest to the skin around the chest,
If you're going to have your hound out in the heat, throat and ears, this is an important cooling feature.
you can take some precautions to keep him cool. One
of those is a "cool coat." This is a coat that takes Time
advantage of evaporation to draw heat away from
Each traditional cool coat takes 20-30 minutes to
your hound's body. The cool coat is made out of
make.
some material that holds water well and doused with
water. The evaporation action draws the heat away
from your hound's skin. Materials Needed
1 small bath towel (try to find one that
We've included instructions for three types of cool is 22" or 24" wide and 40-some inches
coats here. The first is the traditional cool coat made long)
out of an old towel. The second uses high-tech 10" piece of velcro (I usually use the
synthetic chamois. The third is an experimental 2" wide, but 1" will do)
design for a "cool snood." This third version takes
2 yards of extra wide, double-folded
advantage of the fact that blood runs closest to the
bias tape (or 2 yards of 1" ribbon
skin surface on a hound's throat, chest and ears and
folded and pressed lengthwise)
just covers those areas.
Thanks to all who provided input for these patterns. Instructions
Traci Hilbert (siocliath@geocities.com) and Ellen
Schneiderman (ejks@mail.execpc.com) contributed 1. As shown in the diagram below, fold the
the ideas for the experimental cool snood. Chris towel in half lengthwise. If there is fringe on
Stolpe (Chrismums@aol.com) of Chrisanthemums the towel, cut it off. Decorative borders are
contributed the idea for making the coats 3/4 length fine and do not need to be removed.
rather than full length. (Chrisanthemums sells a Measure down 5 inches from the fold on the
9short side and make a mark. Measure over 7 the scratchy side of the velcro to the right
inches on the long side and make a mark. side of one strap. Stitch the fuzzy side of the
Draw a line between the two points and cut velcro to the wrong side of the other strap.
through both layers of toweling to form a V
that will be the neckline. Cut the coat to a
length of 28 inches.
7. Try the coat on your hound and find the
position for the stomach straps. They should
go just behind the front legs. Place the
stomach strap on the coat with right sides
2. Fold the bias tape over the raw edge on the together in the correct position as shown in
tail end of the coat and top-stitch in place. the diagram below. Stitch along the raw
edge of the strap. Repeat on the other side of
3. Fold the bias tape over the raw edge of the V the coat for the other strap. Remember to
that forms the neckline and top-stitch in place right sides of the toweling together so
place. that the velcro will meet when you're done.
4. Fold the coat lengthwise with right sides 8. OPTIONAL: Use the leftover towel scraps
together. Stitch a seam along the front chest to make pockets to hold sponges or ice.
closure as shown in the diagram below. Remember that the chest area is a good one to
cool. In the flowered sample below, I added an
ice pocket with a velcro closure stitched in place
on the front chest area. I cut two 5" squares of
toweling and sewed three sides. Then I turned it
right-side out and added seam binding along the
top edge. I added a small bit of velcro on each
side to hold the pocket shut when filled with ice.
Then, I made a straight stitch just under the seam
binding on one side to hold the pocket in place
on the front of the chest. There are really no rules
on the pockets. Just make them the size you need
to hold sponges, sports ice packs or loose ice
cubes.
5. From the leftover toweling, cut two
rectangles to be used for the stomach straps. There. You're done. If you know you're going to be in
The rectangles should be 10 inches wide and a hot situation with your hound, just soak your coat
tall enough to allow the coat to be fastened and put it in a zip-loc bag. You can even keep it in
under your hound's belly. (I subtract the your cooler. Be sure to bring lots of extra water to
width of my towel from 34 and then divide pour over the coat as the water evaporates and the
that number by 2 to get this measurement for coat dries. Your hound will be calm, cool and
my hounds. For example, if I have a 22" collected even in very warm conditions.
wide towel, I'd make my straps (32 - 22)/2 =
10/2 = 5 inches tall. It's better to make the
straps too big than too small.) Take
advantage of the finished edges of the towel
when cutting the straps. It will mean less
edge-work for you.
6. For each stomach strap, fold bias tape over
any raw edges and top-stitch in place. Leave
one long edge of each rectangle raw. Stitch
10. ..
. ..
. ..
. ..
. .. Instructions
. 1. As shown in the diagram below, fold the
. chamois in half lengthwise. Cut 4 1/2" off of one
.
Hi-Tech Chamois end, leaving 19 1/2 inches for the main body of
. the coat. From the 4 1/2" strip, cut two 7" pieces
and one 6" piece. Cut the 4 1/2" x 6" rectangle
Cool Coat down to be 3" x 6"; this will be the chest strap.
2. Sew one 3" side of the 3" x 6" rectangle to
the front of the coat. Turn the coat inside out
and sew the other 3" side to the opposite
side of the coat as shown in the diagram.
This cool coat uses high-tech, very absorbant
synthetic chamois. It's available in the car washing
section of discount stores like WalMart and K-Mart.
It's rather pricey. I paid $8 for the 3 1/2 square foot
piece used to make this coat. It is very lightweight 3. Sew one side of the velcro to each of the 4
and compact, though, and would be a great addition 1/2" x 7" rectangles. Place it 1/4" from the
to a first aid kit for your hound. It could be soaked edge of the rectangle. These are the stomach
and put in a zip-lock bag and kept in the first aid kit, straps.
ready for any heat-related emergency.
4. Go try the coat on your hound to find out
You could also use regular chamois, but it is more where the stomach straps should be placed.
expensive. Also, since it's a leather product, your You want them to go behind the front legs
hound may want to chew on it. The synthetic so that your hound can walk easily. Mark
chamois is advertised to be twice as absorbant as the position.
natural chamois, so should keep your hound cool for 5. Place one stomach strap on the body of the
twice as long. coat as shown in the diagram below and
stitch in place. Repeat for the other strap on
Time the other side of the coat. Remember to
place the velcro so that the two sides will
Each hi-tech chamois cool coat takes 15-30 minutes meet properly when wrapped under your
to make. hound's chest.
Materials Needed
1 piece of synthetic chamois (found in
car care section - a 3 1/2 square foot
piece will do)
4" piece of velcro (I usually use the 2"
wide, but 1" will do)
Now you have a lightweight, super absorbent cool
coat that can be used to keep your hound cool.
11..
..
..
..
.. 48" of ribbon for the ties (or you can
use shoelaces)
Instructions
Experimental 1. Take three of the HandiWipes and sew them
end-to-end on the short sides to form a very
Cool Snood long rectangle. Fold this long rectangle in
half with right sides together and stitch
along the three open sides. Leave a small
area open to allow turning this right-side
out. This will be the portion of the snood
under the chin and will extend into an
"apron" that covers the chest. Turn the
rectangle right-side out and stitch up the
hole you left for turning. Optionally, press
the piece.
While researching cool coats and how they work,
2. Take the remaining two HandiWipes and
Traci Hilbert and Ellen Schneiderman pointed out
place them together. Stitch around all four
that the traditional coat that hangs on the back really
sides, leaving open a small space to allow
isn't hitting the key cool-down areas of the throat,
turning the piece right-side out. Turn the
chest and ears. After experimenting with a few
piece right-side out and stitch up the hole
"apron" designs, I stumbled onto the idea of adapting
you left for turning. Optionally, press the
Leslie Nichol's snood design to use for cooling rather
piece.
than warming. The problem was going to be the
thickness of the fabric. While accidentally wandering 3. Place the longer rectangle on the table with
through the cleaning aisle of WalMart, I found the the long side on top. Place the smaller
solution--HandiWipes! They're lightweight, they rectangle on top of it with its short side on
breathe, they're absorbent, they reflect the sun, they're top. Align the upper left corners. Stitch
washable, they're pretty durable and they're cheap along the top edge as shown in the diagram.
($1.50 for a package of 5). Repeat for the opposite sides of the
rectangles. Now you have a tube with an
It's not warm enough here to test them out for real apron extending from one portion of it. This
yet, but they sure seem good in theory. If you try one apron will cover your hound's chest. Turn
of these and can report on the cooling properties, the piece right side out.
please do. Your hound will look a little goofy, but
you'll be hitting all of the key cooling points.
Time
Each cool snood takes 20-30 minutes to make.
Materials Needed
1 package of 5 HandiWipes (available
in the cleaning aisle)
12" piece of elastic (1/4" - 3/8" wide).
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
4. Stitch all the way around the tube about 1"
from the edge on the side where the two
rectangles are aligned. The channel you are
forming will be used to hold the elastic
which will hold the snood up around your
hound's ears.
5. Clip a small slit on the channel and feed the
elastic through it. (I attach a safety pin to the
end of the elastic to make this job easier.)
After feeding the elastic all the way through,
sew the two ends of the elastic together to
form a loop. Then let the elastic slip back
into the channel.
6. Cut your 48" piece of ribbon into two 24"
sections. Sew one piece onto each corner of
the apron. These ties will go up around the
ribs and tie at the top of your hound's back.
7. OPTIONAL: The entire snood is a double
layer of HandiWipes. You can sew square
shapes into any area to hold a sponge or
sports ice pack. A small slit will allow you
to insert the sponge. Then stitch the slit back
up. This model can be worn with the snood
down around the neck or up around the ears.
Douse the snood with additional water as
necessary to keep it wet and the evaporation
working.
13..
..
..
..
.. Instructions
1. Basically, take a 20"x30" piece of fabric.
Sew a seam on the 20" side so you have a
tube.
Ear-Warming Snood 2. Hem one end on the machine by turn the
fabric over 1/4", then 1/4" again and sewing.
3. Turn over the other end 1/4" and sew, then
turn again (this time 1/2" - 3/4") and sew to
make a casing. Leave a small opening.
4. Measure a piece of elastic around the dog's
face (usually about 12 inches), near the ears.
Subtract 2" and cut the elastic. Be sure to
measure while the elastic is in its
unstretched state.
5. Thread the elastic through the casing. Adjust
size on dog, sew elastic together, close up
hole on casing and there you have it. You
can put the snood on first, then the hound
coat.
Keep those hound's ears toasty with this quick and
easy snood. Great for those especially cold days
where just a coat won't cut it. Special thanks to Leslie
Nicoll(lnicoll@maine.rr.com) for creating this pattern
and sharing it with the world.
The snood is long enough that hounds don‟t pull it
out of the neck of the coat, even when fidgeting and
moving.
Time
Each snood takes 5-15 minutes to make.
Materials Needed
20" x 30" piece of fabric (polar fleece
works best, but anything thick and
warm will do)
12" piece of elastic (anything from
1/4" to 1/2" wide)..
..
..
..
.. Instructions
1. Attach the 11-inch piece of elastic to the
bottom of the wreath to form a chin strap. I
usually hand-sew this on, but hot glue would
Greygirl Floral 2.
also work.
Cut 6-8 18-inch pieces of satin ribbon and
Wreath Hat tie them to one strand in the wreath. Make
the knot be in the middle of the length of
ribbon, forming two ribbon streamers out of
each piece. I concentrate them on the bottom
of the wreath on the side that will be the part
of the wreath nearest the neck of the hound.
3. Hot glue the spanish moss to the top of the
wreath. Glue it really well to hold up to the
head-shaking and such.
4. Take a 2-foot piece of satin ribbon. Hot glue
one end to the wreath in an inconspicuous
place. Gently and loosely wrap the ribbon
around and through the wreath 5-7 times.
You should end up where you started. Hot
glue this and trim any excess ribbon.
5. Hot glue satin ribbon roses into place.
These simple-to-make floral wreaths bring out the
medieval grace and elegance of your greygirl.
They‟re flashy yet tasteful and stay on the head well.
We know--we‟ve tested them. If you want to
participate in costume contests, but don‟t want your
hound to look goofy, these are a nice choice.
Time
Each floral wreath hat takes 15-25 minutes to make.
Materials Needed
4-inch grapevine wreath (or make
your own out of any viney plant)
Bit of spanish moss
10 or more feet of thin satin ribbon
(use one color or several)
8-12 small satin roses in coordinating
colors
11-inch piece of ¼ inch elastic..
..
..
..
.. Instructions
1. Cut one 11-inch circle of fabric and two 5
½-inch circles of fabric.
2. Cut a 5-inch circle of posterboard or thin
Greyguy 3.
cardboard.
Use a 1-inch basting to hand-baste ½ inch
Sporty Irish Cap from the edge of the 11-inch circle. When
all the way around the circle, pull the
threads to draw the circle as tightly together
as possible. (This will form a bag-like item.
Be sure the right side of the fabric is out.)
Tie the threads to secure the circle.
4. Place right sides together on the 5 ½-inch
fabric circles and sew with a ¼-inch seam
allowance around the entire circle. Clip
curves.
5. Carefully cut an X in one of the fabric
circles and turn the circles right-side out.
Iron flat.
6. Carefully squish and squeeze the
posterboard into the circle just made. Don‟t
worry if the posterboard bends--it‟s okay.
These sporty Irish hats fit well with the character of 7. Top-stitch ¼ inch from the edge. That‟s
most greyhounds. You can make them out of any right, sew through the posterboard and the
fabric, but the Irish plaids seem to look the best to us. layers of fabric. This is now the brim of your
A very nice distinguished yet playful look for your hat.
hound.
8. Attach the elastic to the brim to form a chin
strap. The hat will lay best if you attach the
Time
elastic about 1 inch in from the edge of the
Each Irish cap takes 15-25 minutes to make. hat on each side. You can hot glue this or
sew it. Since it takes a lot of pressure, I
Materials Needed usually sew it.
¼ yard of fabric - tweeds and plaid 9. Attach the brim to the first circle. Be sure to
wools work best put the side of the brim with the X cut in it
5-inch circle of posterboard or thin to the side of the big circle with the gathers.
cardboard You may want to slightly offset the brim
circle from the large circle so the brim sticks
11-inch piece of ¼ elastic
out slightly. You can hot glue these together
or hand-stitch them.
Variation: Instead of a solid-colored 11-inch
circle, sew 6 pie-shaped pieces of
fabric of different colors to form the
initial circle. This results in a very nice
look...
..
..
..
.. Instructions
1. Cut a 1-inch strip of posterboard at least 18
inches long. (A rotary cutter works great for
this.)
Greygirl Pillbox Hat 2. Cut an oval out of the posterboard. The
exact shape is not important--it really
doesn‟t show much after all the
embellishments. Aim to have it be 4 inches
the long way and 3 inches the short way.
3. Carefully hot glue the 1-inch strip to the
edge of the oval to form the pillbox shape.
You might want to work on a surface you
can easily remove hot glue from as you‟re
likely to have some ooze out of the seams.
Finish the strip by overlapping it onto itself
by about 1 inch and gluing securely. Trim
off any extra. Don‟t worry about glue glops
or irregularities. They‟ll all be covered up.
4. Iron the 5-inch square of paper-backed
fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric.
Place your posterboard hat on the paper side
of the fusible web and loosely draw about ½
inch extra around the shape of the hat. No
need to be exact here. Cut on the line you
just drew.
5. Be careful here. You can burn your fingers.
The look of glamour is achieved in these simple satin Remove the paper backing and iron the
pillbox hats embellished with sequins, tulle and fabric oval on to the top of the hat, leaving
rhinestones. Add a simple tutu and you‟ve got a very the ½ inch overhang all the way around.
flashy look in no time. Don‟t leave the iron on the fabric too long or
the hot glue you used to construct the hat
will melt.
Time
6. Snip the overhang every ½ inch or so. Now
Each pillbox hat takes 20-30 minutes to make go back to the iron and iron down each little
"spoke‟ of the overhang created by the snip.
Materials Needed This will form a smooth top with a nice
corner.
¼ yard of fabric - satin or linings
work best 7. Place the hat on the remaining fabric and
Piece of posterboard or thin cardboard draw around the edge. Cut just inside this
at least 18" long line to form an oval just the size of the hat.
11-inch piece of ¼ elastic Hot glue this oval with right side up to the
5-inch square of paper-backed fusible inside of the hat.
web (like Heat „n Bond) 8. Cut a 3 7/8 inch strip of the fabric, at least
18 inches long. (Longer is okay and will
give you a fudge factor.) Iron this in half
with right sides out to form a long 2‟ strip.
Open this up and iron each side in to the
center crease with right sides out. Fold the
strip in half along the original first crease
and press again. The result is a 1" strip with
nice, clean edges.9. Hot glue the strip to the hat. First glue the
outside all the way around, then the inside.
The folds and creases in the strip will line up
perfectly with the top and inside edges of the
band of the hat. When you get to the end,
fold over and glue. Don‟t worry about
imperfections--your embellishments will
cover them.
10. Hot glue the elastic strip to the inside of the
band of the hat to form a chin strap.
11. Now the fun part. Embellish your hat with
sequins, silk flowers, bits of tulle, ribbons,
bows, rhinestones, plastic fruit or whatever
you have.
18..
..
..
..
.. Instructions
1. Fold the tulle or netting in half and half
again to form as many layers as you‟d like
in the skirt. For 1 yard of tulle, I usually
Greygirl TuTu have 4 layers. For 2 yards, I‟d have 8. Do
not cut the folds on either edge. It‟s much
easier to work with this way.
2. Pin the tulle at the fold on the side where the
elastic will go. It‟s going to look like the
tulle is much too long and could be wrapped
around your girl several times. It will
shorten considerably when you add the
elastic.
3. Secure the tulle to the elastic with a few
stitches. Now the hard part. Stretch the
elastic (from both the front and back of the
presser foot) while you sew it onto the tulle.
You‟ll be sewing down the middle of the
elastic, which may end up giving you a ¾
inch seam allowance. Stretch the elastic as
much as you can to get the maximum
fullness in the final tutu. You will have extra
elastic when you get to the end of the tulle.
4. Loop the extra elastic back to where you
started sewing and secure with a few
stitches. This will form the waistband of the
tutu.
A simple tutu can be a great costume for your
favorite greygirl. They go very well with the pillbox 5. Now cut the folds left in the tulle. You
hats. might also want to round off any square
edges left on the sides of the tulle. Fluff the
tulle and you‟re done.
Time
Each tutu requires 10-25 minutes.
Materials Needed
1-3 yards of tulle or netting. (The
more you use, the fuller the skirt will
be.)
2 feet of 1-inch elastic..
..
..
..
.. Materials Needed
5" strip of 2" wide sew-on velcro (or 10" strip
of 1" wide velcro)
1 yard of outer fabric (44" or 54" wide)
Greyguy Tuxedo
1 yard of inner fabric (44" or 54" wide)
1 10" x 30" piece of white fabric for shirt
1 36" x 8" piece of black velvet or black satin
for the collar of the tux
1/4 yard of satin for cumberbun and tie
6 gold or pearl buttons for front of coat
2 gold buttons and a 4" length of gold chain for
tail buttons
OPTIONAL: 1 12" x 18" piece of white fabric
for French cuffs
OPTIONAL: 1 2" length of 1" wide sew-on
velcro for French cuffs
OPTIONAL: 1 felt top hat (find this in the doll
section of your craft store)
OPTIONAL: 1 sheet of black plastic canvas to
make top hat sturdy
OPTIONAL: 1 8" length of black 1/4" elastic
for hat strap
Large sheet of paper or a paper bag cut open
(for pattern)
Our hound tuxedos are very popular. The design is Step 1 – Measure Hound and Make Full-
very flattering to the build of a greyhound. They stay Sized Pattern
put very well, even on fidgety dogs. They're easy to
put on and take off when made with the single velcro 1. First, measure your hound in these three places
fastener described here. And don't they make for a and write down the measurements.
dapper looking hound?!?! Perfect for weddings and Length - From where the neck bends and
formal events. becomes the back to where the tail starts
We make these out of any dark fabric we find, but get (usually 26" - 30")
the best results with black and charcoal gray Girth - Biggest distance around the chest,
summerweight wools. These fabrics hang very well. just behind the front legs (usually 28" -
32")
Throughout these instructions we refer to the inner
Width - Distance across chest as you look
fabric and the outer fabric. We find it easiest to use
straight on at the hound (usually 6"-9")
just one fabric for both the inner shell and the outer.
However, when low on a particularly good outer
fabric, we will use a different fabric for the inner
shell.
Time
Each tux takes me about an hour and a half to make.
About a half an hour of this is the hand-sewing of the
finishing touches and can be done while watching
television or riding in the car. I don't pin stuff and my
patterns are already made, so it may take you slightly
longer, especially for your first tux..
.
.
. 2. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Allow 1/4" - 1/2" extra
. around the pattern as you cut the fabric. This will
. be your seam allowance. I usually go with a 3/8"
. seam allowance, but use what your'e comfortable
. with.
. 3. Then place the tail pattern piece along the fold
and cut it out, allowing for your seam allowance.
Cut along the fold so that you have two pieces
that are mirror images of each other.
4. Finally, cut two 6 1/2" by 5 1/2" rectangles of the
inner fabric.
2. Next, take a large sheet of paper and draw out
your pattern similar to the one above, but to the
Step 3 - Cut Outer Fabric
size you measured on your hound. Don't worry 1. Next, fold the outer fabric in half. Don't use the
about matching the drawing above exactly. pattern to cut the outer fabric. Instead, use the
Generally, you want the coat full around the folded inner fabric as the pattern. This will
chest and you want it to taper as it moves toward assure you that the two sides will match
the rear. The rear end should end just where the perfectly. Cut the outer fabric to match the inner
tail starts and the ends must be squared off to fabric shape.
accept the "tails" of the tuxedo.
2. Now lay one of the tail pieces (inner fabric) on
3. To figure out the X measurement in the drawing the fold of the outer fabric. Cut the outer fabric
above, subtract 5 inches from your hound's girth, tail pieces to match.
then divide the result by 2.
3. There are no rectangles of the outer fabric
4. Now take the pattern to your hound. This is a needed.
tough job, but worth the effort. Hold the pattern
in place along the hound's spine and make sure
the coat falls as you would like. Make sure the Step 4 - Construct the Shirt and Tie
coat will cover the chest but not drown it. If you
need to make changes, do it now--even if you
have to do the pattern over. Once you get a
perfect pattern for your hound, you'll never have
to go through this again.
5. The other pattern piece you'll need is the tail of
the tux. (This is the flap that hangs down over
the butt. For this, you'll need to measure the
width of your first pattern piece at the rear end. 1. Cut a rectangle of white fabric 10" x 20". Fold
Mine usually end up being 6-8". Now add 1 1/2" the fabric into pleats and iron them one by one.
to this measurement and draw a line that length After folding and ironing the pleats you should
on your pattern paper. Draw a line at a right end up with a piece that is 10" by around 6".
angle to this and make it 8" long. Now draw a
curved line to connect to two endpoints. You 2. Cut one 10" by 6" rectangle of the white fabric
should have a pie-shaped piece. as a backing.
3. Cut four triangles (to be used for the shirt collar).
Step 2 - Cut Inner Fabric These should be about 3" along each side. Place
two triangles right-sides together and stitch along
1. Fold the inner fabric in half. Place the long two sides. Repeat for the other pair of triangles.
straight side of the main pattern piece along the Turn right-side out and iron.
fold. You can put a few pins in at this point if
you'd like, but I don't. I just hold the pattern in 4. Place the pleated piece of fabric right-side up on
place while I cut. Precision is not that important your work surface. Place the two triangles along
here. the top edge. They should touch just at the top
edge of the pleated piece of fabric and should be
21in about the middle of the width. They should be 3. Cut a rectangle of the satin 6 1/2" by 15" and
side by side. Place the 10" by 6" rectangle on top iron it flat. Loosely baste along both of the long
of this, right-side down. Pin this construction edges. Pull the threads to scrunch the piece into a
together. 6 1/2" by 5 1/2" size. With right sides together,
pin the inner fabric rectangle to the scrunched
5. Carefully sew along the two short ends first.
satin rectangle. The velcro should be on the
Then sew along the entire length of the top edge.
inside with the right side of the satin. Stitch the
(This will stitch the triangles into place.) Then
two basted (scrunched) edges first. Then stitch
sew about 1/3 of the distance across the bottom
along the other two edges, making sure not to
edge. Stop stitching and move 2" down. Finish
catch the folds of satin in the seam. Leave a 2"
sewing the bottom edge. Use the 2" space to turn
area unstitched along one of the edges so you can
the shirt right-side out. Iron so the triangles form
turn the assembly right side out. Turn the
the collar. Hand-stitch closed the opening you
assembly right-side out and hand-stitch closed
used to turn the shirt right-side out.
the opening you left.
6. Cut a 2 1/2" x 24" rectangle of satin for the tie.
Fold this lengthwise with right sides together. Step 6 - Stitch the Tail Pieces
Stitch the length of the satin to form a tube. Turn
the tube right-side out. Tie into a bow of the 1. Place one inner fabric tail piece and one outer
appropriate size for the shirt. Using thread that fabric tail piece with right sides together. Stitch
matches the satin, stitch the long ends of the bow along the 8" side and the curved side, leaving the
under the collar triangles (while the bow is still third side open. Place the other inner fabric tail
tied. Trim the excess ends of the satin tube. Your piece and outer fabric tail piece with right sides
shirt front is now done. together. The curved side of this tail piece should
be on the opposite side from the first one you
Step 5 - Construct Cumberbun did. Stitch the 8" side and the curved side,
leaving the third side open. Clip the corners and
(Stomach Straps) curves to promote a smooth seam. Turn both
assemblies right side out and iron flat.
Step 7 - Cut and Construct the Collar
1. Fold one of the inner fabric 5 1/2" by 6 1/2"
rectangles in half, right sides together. You
should have a rectangle 5 1/2" x 3 1/4". Stitch
the two short sides using a 1/4" seam allowance. 1. This part will scare you, but it always works out
Turn this right side out. Sew the scratchy side of great if you just follow these steps. Really. Fold
the velcro to this rectangle, placing it as close to the collar fabric (velvet or satin) in half with
the finished (folded) edge as possible. right sides together. Lay this under the inner
fabric coat piece with the folds together.
2. Sew the other side of the velcro to the other 5 Following the line of the inner fabric neckline,
1/2" by 6 1/2" piece of inner fabric. Place it cut the collar to precisely match the neckline.
about 1/2" from the edge of one end. Remember, Follow the outline through the curve of the coat
the finished stomach strap will be 6" long and 5" to about where the front legs will be. Now
wide. Be sure to place the velcro along one of the remove the inner fabric. Freehand a collar shape
short sides of the rectangle. as you'd like it to lay on the coat. Be sure to add
1/2" for a seam allowance.
22You can also read
