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OFC-ETN-August-September-2020_JM_Layout 1 20/07/2020 10:39 Page 1
August / September 2020
The environmental magazine for the global textile supply chain
Platform Power
The new textile industry police?
Eye Spy The Crying Game Good Wood
Why transparency is Boohoo under fire Can man-made cellulosics
impossible without trust in UK sweatshop row drive circular fashion?
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Editorial Aug-Sept_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/07/2020 16:47 Page 1
Another sob story
Following on from news that Boohoo has been temporarily suspended from online sales
platforms Zalando, ASOS and Next due to concerns about textile worker exploitation in
Leicester, a group of 50 British lawmakers, retailers such as Marks & Spencer and New Look,
investors and NGOs have called for urgent action to prevent the exploitation of garment
Editorial Office factory workers in the United Kingdom.
MCL News & Media A joint letter, coordinated by industry lobby group the British Retail Consortium (BRC)
Hallcroft House,
Castleford Road, and addressed to Home Secretary Priti Patel, asked for the introduction of statutory
Normanton, licensing of garment factories to ensure they all meet their legal obligations to employees.
WF6 2DW, UK.
Tel: +44 (0)1977 708488 This is welcome news, but we’ve been here before – and very recently.
Fax: +44 (0)1924 897254 In February last year, the Environmental Audit Committee led by former MP Mary Creagh
E-mail: info@mclnews.com
Web: www.mclnews.com published a ‘Fixing Fashion’ report that called on the Government to end the era of
throwaway fashion through wide-ranging recommendations covering both environmental
and labour market practices.
All of its recommendations were rejected.
Among the EAC report findings, it called for a more proactive approach to enforcement of
the UK National Minimum Wage with greater resourcing to increase inspection and
Editor & founder detection work. It also said the government should publish a publicly accessible list of
John Mowbray retailers required to release a modern slavery statement – supported by an appropriate
jmowbray@mclnews.com
penalty for those companies failing to report and comply with the Modern Slavery Act.
Meanwhile, the BRC noted its members have long been ‘calling for’ greater enforcement by
the authorities to support the actions retailers are taking to ensure fair treatment of workers
and to encourage businesses to invest in UK fashion manufacturing.
Yet nothing has happened to incentivise any behavioural change.
That’s until the aforementioned retail platforms took the bold step of removing Boohoo
Assistant editor
Chris Remington from their shop windows.
cremington@mclnews.com Even though Boohoo’s sales through the all online platforms are said to be only around
four per cent of its revenues, the news generated huge media interest that panicked large
institutional investors resulting in the group’s market value falling sharply (see page: 16).
It’s a good example of how the market – rather than government – can effectively
‘sanction’ businesses that operate without sufficient due diligence. Yet it’s clear that we
Senior reporter can’t rely on market self-regulation alone (page: 7).
Simon Glover More legislation is required, and a good start would be to blow the dust from the cover of
sglover@mclnews.com
last year’s EAC report and take the findings seriously.
Contributing editor One idea is a ‘fit to trade’ licensing scheme that ensures all garment factories are meeting
David Styles
dstyles@mclnews.com their legal obligations to their employees.
That would be a good start – and not just in the UK, but worldwide.
Features and technology
Tony Whitfield
twhitfield@mclnews.com Textile microfibre summit set for 2021
Expert contributors As the global apparel industry starts to get to grips with its contribution
Simon Ferrigno to pollution related to textile fibre fragmentation, the Microfibre
Phil Patterson
Dr Pamela Ravasio Consortium will hold an online edition of its Fibre Fragmentation Summit
Miguel Sanchez from 23rd – 26th March 2021 – in partnership with Planet Textiles.
Tone Tobiasson
Molshree Vaid Since the inaugural Microfibre Leadership Summit in 2017 (co-hosted by
Ocean Conservancy and the Bren School of Environmental Science & Management), new studies, innovations,
Global advertising
David Jagger methodologies and policy discussions have elevated global awareness of textile microfibre pollution.
djagger@mclnews.com However, there is still a huge knowledge gap about the exact scale, sources, fates and impacts of textile fibre
Subscriptions fragmentation, with the best practices for mitigating shedding only just beginning to emerge.
Paula Jones Spread over four days next year, the new online summit aims to tackle these key issues and will convene
pjones@mclnews.com
global apparel and textiles brands, supply chain partners, legislators, NGOs, academics and other thought
Design leaders for the next round of cross discipline presentations, discussions and action planning.
Gavin Gibson
info@ggibsoncreativedesign.co.uk Save the date: 23rd – 26th March 2021 in your calendar and register your interest through the event email:
findoutmore@microfibreconsortium.com.
www.ecotextile.com
ecotextilenews | 1
Contents-Aug-Sept_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 21/07/2020 08:57 Page 2
August / September 2020
Editorial
10
The environmental magazine for the global textile supply chain
Platform Power 1 Another sob story
The new textile industry police?
UK government called to action over worker
exploitation fears, but we’ve seen this all before...
Opinion
28 Transparency:
“you’ll know it when you see it…”
Tim Wilson, of sustainability consultancy
14
E ye S p y The Crying Game Good Wood
Why transparency is Boohoo under fire Can man-made cellulosics
impossible without trust in UK sweatshop row drive circular fashion?
3P Strategy, breaks down this vague term.
Issue 98
August / September 2020
42 Natural selection
Phil Patterson weighs up the
Image: © Freepik.com
‘natural vs synthetic’ dye debate.
Cover story
7. Platform power News reports
Can fashion marketplaces such
as Zalando, ASOS and Amazon
police textile sustainability?
40 What fashion needs to learn from nature
16
Taking inspiration from natural ecosystems.
47 Fitting the bill
Ecotextile News California waits on worker protection legislation.
Subscriptions start from only £160.00.
Published six times per year in magazine and digital
format. Includes all digital back issues, premium web
access, weekly e-bulletin, mobile app. 51 Microscopic menace
Electronic storage or usage Curveball study turns attention away from synthetics.
Permission of the publisher is required to store or use
electronically any material contained in this journal,
including any article or part of an article. 57 Chemically recycled denim
Notice New technique removes dyes and separates fibres.
28
No responsibility is assumed by the publisher for any
commercial loss as a matter of products liability, negligence
or otherwise, or ideas contained in the material herein.
© Published by MCL News & Media 2020.
All rights reserved.
Features
10 COVID-19 and fashion supply chains:
ISSN: 1752-7422
how the news has unravelled
Chartering the day-to-day impacts
of the pandemic on workers.
www.mclnews.com
14 How COVID-19 could save fashion
www.twitter.com/ecotextile The RSA makes the case for a prosperous future.
Find us on LinkedIn
www.facebook.com/ecotextile
16 Boohoo under fire again
Fast fashion brand caught up in factory controversy.
38
20 Online orders
Ecotextile News speaks with Kate Heiny,
Zalando’s director of sustainability.
Printed on FSC® certified paper.
Contents-Aug-Sept_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 21/07/2020 08:57 Page 3
CONTENTS
25 How tax could save the planet
Ex’Tax project aligns economic and
environmental sustainability ambitions.
42
30 Reading the terrain
High hopes for ‘Mapped in
Bangladesh’ transparency platform.
35 Going the distance
What will a post-pandemic supply chain look like?
38 Cleaning up its act
‘Sustainable’ laundering solutions
48
to assist circular economy.
48 The bigger picture
Google tech to transform supply chain data availability.
54
52 Lost stock – and two smoking barrels
Donations service questioned
by workers’ rights organisation.
54 Dark side factories threaten
post-pandemic reshoring
Unscrupulous sites cast doubt
over localised supply chains.
62
62 A forest of opportunities
Can man-made cellulosic fibres
revolutionise the industry?
64 PPE… the new normal?
Applying protective apparel where it’s truly necessary.
Every issue
4, 19, 68, 70, 71, 72
News, comment, analysis 64
58 Cotton Horizons
73 Events calendar
ecotextilenews | 3
P4 News_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/07/2020 15:20 Page 4
NEWS
U.S. Cotton Uniqlo bans alpaca
Trust Protocol wool from clothing
launches TOKYO – Following in the nimal rights group at the vulnerable alpacas from
MEMPHIS – Fashion brands footsteps of Marks & site of Mallkini showed being abused and shorn
and retailers have been invited Spencer, Japanese fashion how workers slammed bloody for their wool.”
to join the US Cotton Trust titan Uniqlo has vowed to alpacas onto tables and Last month we saw
Protocol, a new data-rich ban the use of alpaca tied them to stretching M&S move to ban alpaca
system that will verify wool from its collections devices as their legs wool from its clothing
company commitments and after a PETA exposé were all but torn from collections after viewing
efforts in-line with the UN’s highlighted instances of their sockets. PETA’s graphic video of
sustainability goals. gross misconduct at the PETA executive vice torture within alpaca
The protocol has been the world’s largest privately president Tracy Reiman farms, not least the
subject of pilot-phase work, owned alpaca farm, says: “Uniqlo's decision largest and most
assessing its efficacy in situated in Peru. will go a long way in established facility of its
supplying data on US cotton’s Undercover work by the helping to prevent kind globally.
impact on water use, Footage shows these
Uniqlo has vowed to ban the use
greenhouse gas (GHG) of alpaca wool from its collections. terrified animals crying
emissions, energy, soil carbon and vomiting in anguish
and land use. as they’re man-handled,
Now launched, it’s hoped the roughly shorn and
platform can fill a data gap to crudely stitched back
best enable brands and up having been subject
retailers to measure progress to mistreatment.
on the sustainability front. “Kind consumers can do
“One of our goals in their part to reject this
developing the Trust Protocol cruelty by opting for
is to give brands and retailers vegan clothing, which no
greater confidence when animal had to suffer for,”
including US cotton in their Reiman added.
sourcing mix,” said Ken PETA continues to work
Burton, executive director of Amazon and Aquafil join relentlessly within the
the US Cotton Trust Protocol. fashion and textile
“Participating brands and
Ellen MacArthur Foundation industries, enforcing its
retailers will now be able to COWES – The Ellen MacArthur world’s leading circular will in a bid to banish
demonstrate measurable Foundation has announced economy network, they will animal-based product from
progress in reducing their that online retail giant work with the foundation and apparel and accessories.
environmental footprint Amazon and sustainable other members to share ideas The organisation has
and in achieving sustain- textile producer Aquafil and drive the global transition minimal shares in leading
ability targets.” have joined its circular to a circular economy." brands including Ralph
Liza Schillo, senior manager of economy network. Amazon's services include Lauren, Burberry, Urban
Global Sustainability Swiss technology company Amazon Second Chance which Outfitters and Guess, and
Integration at Levi Strauss, ABB has also joined the helps customers trade-in, does so with the sole
and Trust Protocol board network of companies which repair, and recycle devices, purpose of gaining a seat
member, commented: “We are have committed to working purchase refurbished products at annual meetings. Here,
in strong support of the towards circularity in their and recycle packaging. the campaign group can
introduction of standards – business practices. Aquafil has invested in spotlight fashion’s need to
including the US Cotton Trust "We are delighted to welcome sustainable production clamp down on animal
Protocol – that champion ABB, Amazon, and Aquafil to methods and developed the mistreatment within their
sustainably grown cotton and our network," announced the Econyl system to rescue nylon supply chains, as culpable
drive wider adoption over the Ellen MacArthur Foundation in 6 waste and transform it into sites only exist due to the
long-term of sustainable an online statement. new raw material. continued backing and
cultivation practices.” "As new members of the Web: bit.ly/2ChtTJm custom of brands.
Web: bit.ly/3fCu3t5 Web: bit.ly/30eDHMh
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Power of Platforms_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/07/2020 15:51 Page 7
RETAIL
Image: © Bloomicon | Shutterstock
Platform power
The big clothing retail platforms such as the
likes of Amazon, Zalando, ASOS, Next, Ebay
and Revolve, amongst others, could be a
huge force for positive change in our
industry – at a time when self-assessed
‘improvements’ may not be enough.
By John Mowbray
W
ould you 2022 none of the manmade Unlike others in the fashion
fly with cellulosic fibre (viscose, sector doing exactly the
the world’s lyocell and modal) used in same thing – either in the UK
‘most Amazon-owned private or overseas – Boohoo was
improved’ airline? brand clothing is derived unlucky enough to get
Sounds an easy question to from ancient and endangered caught using suppliers that
answer doesn’t it? But before forests, or from endangered exploited workers on very
you agree straightaway, what species’ habitats and other low wages in Leicester, UK.
would you say if you controversial sources (see: I say ‘unlucky enough’,
discovered this ‘most www.ecotextile.com). because the way some in the
improved’ airline had a So, all good then. Leicester garment trade
terrible safety record – and its But wouldn’t it be even operate has been an open
newest aircraft was in fact a better if Amazon would also secret in the retail sector for
Douglas DC-53 from 1958? apply the same restrictions many years. We understand
Hmm. I thought you to all the third-party brands that some UK clothing
may demur. that it sells through its retailers even treat Leicester
It’s a bit like this with online platform – not just its like a problematic overseas
environmental improvement own private label clothing? destination and approach it
awards dished out by some Surely that would have a with the same caution.
in the textile industry. These much bigger, positive impact But the interesting part of
are mostly for PR purposes, on the survival of ancient this unfortunate story is that
they’re easy to spot and are and endangered forests? it simply would not go away
usually ‘awarded’ by those The initial financial this time for Boohoo – thanks
who want to keep hold of implications of such a move to continued media coverage
their ‘winning’ clients. are clear though for Amazon. and heightened consumer
Meanwhile, most certifi- Kicking off brands for non- sensitivities around both
cation programmes are used compliance would lower COVID-19 (Leicester
to track exactly what raw both income and website suffered a second lockdown)
materials are used in traffic – even though it would and the exploitation of
clothing. If a brand really greatly help to preserve the ethnic minorities.
wants to do it, it’s fairly endangered ecosystem that This additional unwanted
straightforward and it looks it’s actually named after! attention ensured Boohoo
good and is a responsible The really difficult part of was ultimately suspended
way to find out more about transparency though is not from vital online sales
their own supply networks. identifying what a garment is platforms such as Zalando,
Amazon did this recently made from – the tough part ASOS and Next due to
through its partnership with is identifying exactly how a how these clothes were
CanopyStyle. product is made. Our being made.
Here, the online retail giant Boohoo story (p.16) is an These platforms, and
agreed to make sure that by unusual example of this. others such as those which ❱
ecotextilenews | 7
Power of Platforms_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/07/2020 15:51 Page 8
RETAIL
we draw attention to on the pragmatic standards to overseas retailers to sell their
front cover of this harmonise social and brands in that locality. They
magazine, earn substantial environmental performance may know what they are
royalties from the sale of across clothing sold on all made from – but not how
third-party brands. retail portals? they are made.
It’s a fantastic business But to do that, the above The licensed brands often
model. Maximising programmes would also have strict environmental
revenues and profits for need teeth. This means policies on chemical
minimal effort – or risk – in they’d have a pass or fail management, with the
terms of how a third-party criteria so that transgressors correct certifications in place,
product is made. So why can be thrown off the but because their licensees
It’s a bit like how
would any platform want to the big social media programme and/or their often sell the same brand on
fall in line with a money platforms such as chosen sales platform if they a different continent, it will
losing exercise by turning Facebook and did not comply. source apparel from local
Google now account
away a big ‘anchor’ brand, for over 80 per cent So for example, in terms of suppliers who may not
for example? After all, of online advertising chemical management, if a implement the same
having a big brand on any revenues without brand posted a low (fail) chemical stewardship of a
providing any
platform will lavishly content of their own score in the ZDHC brand heavily certified parent brand
furnish the bottom line of – we (me and you) leader programme, this located elsewhere. Inditex
both brand and the retail do it for them. information could be made being a noticeable exception.
platform – delighting two available to platforms. If This lack of transparency
sets of shareholders. nothing was done to rectify is a well-known problem in
So for Zalando, ASOS and this situation the brand the global textile industry –
Next, Boohoo’s current could be sanctioned by the certainly more well-known
suspension essentially platform. The same could than the problems of
means lost income, which apply to brands that perform Boohoo in Leicester.
makes what they’ve done – poorly with the Higg Index I’m all for self-
in the middle of a pandemic- brand module, for example. improvement in our industry,
inspired retail sales crash – That would immediately but without standards,
all the more impressive. raise the question of whether certification and metrics that
But their financial pain is a brand would be able to have real sanctions for non-
only a fraction of what Institutional sell through online platforms compliance – in partnership
Boohoo is now going if it wasn’t improving, or with retailers selling directly
through as institutional
investors passing an agreed Higg to the general public –
shareholders pull out their have le and/or ZDHC score. instead of flying ahead on
investments. The platforms Boohoo to It sounds draconian, but it sustainability, our industry
behaved much like the could be an answer. Like in will be forever like the pilot of
police, checking and
mop up its the world of social media, the Douglas DC-53 –
handing out on-the-spot own tears power is now being concen- frantically pressing buttons
penalties through denial trated in the hands of the and turning levers in order to
of service, that has ~ few. But alas, the two afore avoid a very bumpy, Boohoo
resulted in real-world mentioned industry style landing.
financial consequences. initiatives do not want to Like the potential
Finance aside, it does also become ‘standards’ – instead passengers of the 50’s
show how the power of they aim to provide guidance aircraft, best practise,
these platforms can be a for improvement and advice guidance and education are
massive force for positive on industry best practice. all fine in their own way, but
change in our industry. It’s the same problem with ‘new and improved’ doesn’t
Looking ahead, perhaps brand licensing. Another quite inspire 100 per cent
there’s room for a ‘platform elephant that’s squeezed confidence. The new breed
coalition’ or consortium? into that overcrowded room- of ESG (environmental,
Not one that conflicts with sized metaphor. For social, governance) investors
others in our industry such example, many successful who have left Boohoo to
as the SAC or the ZDHC, but clothing brands have special mop up its own tears no
one that uses these licensing agreements with doubt agree. ■
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CHT_covid19_Mode_205x282_EN_200629.indd 1 02.07.20 14:43Supply Chain Map_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/07/2020 16:13 Page 10
industry is running at only
55 per cent capacity due to
retracted orders from
COVID-19 and brands and retailers.
fashion supply 8th June: The International
Labour Organisation’s Better
Factories Cambodia
chains: the initiative launches a mobile
phone hotline in the country
to provide garment workers
latest chapter with information on how
best to recognise and
prevent the spread of
coronavirus whilst working.
By Chris Remington
Despite lingering health
concerns, factories continue
1st June: In rebuttal to green light to produce in to reopen and must be
calls in India to impose a May, as demand for equipped to adhere to social
levy on garment imports, everyday apparel has dried distancing as well as other
the Bangladesh Textile up. “It is a matter of survival. safety measures.
Mills Association wrote to We have no option,” the
the country’s textiles, head of human resources 10th June: Children’s
finance and commerce and compliance at one charity UNICEF develops
ministries, demanding garment factory in the guidelines for clothing and
that they work to impose Peenya industrial area said. footwear companies to
anti-dumping duties on 750,000 better address the rights of
Indian yarn imports. 4th June: The Garment workers minors in global supply
The organisation insists Manufacturers Association employed in chains. “As the socio-
India benefits much more in Cambodia pleads with the Cambodia’s economic consequences of
than Bangladesh through European Commission to garment the COVID-19 pandemic
open trade. delay partially suspending industry threaten the livelihoods of
the country’s apparel millions of workers in
2nd June: As new research manufacturers from its global supply chains,
highlights that the apparel ‘Everything But Arms’ (EBA) children’s rights must be at
industry is amongst the scheme, which will soon the heart of business
hardest hit as a result of enforce tariffs on exported action,” says deputy
COVID-19, the European goods. “The EU must not executive director,
Union announces plans to ignore the gravity of the Charlotte Petri Gornitzka.
support Bangladesh – the situation and the
second largest exporting devastating impact of 11th June: The Ethical
nation. The EU is providing removing EBA benefits in Trading Initiative and
US$104m to help support August,” says GMAC FairWear jointly publish
the estimated one million chairman, Van Sou Leng. both a factory checklist and
Bangladeshi garment discussion sheet in an effort
workers who have either 5th June: On the day that to ensure worker health and
been laid off or permanently Rana Plaza factory owner, safety remains paramount
lost their jobs. Abdul Khaleque, died of whilst COVID-19 is a threat.
COVID-19, the BGMEA “For brands there is a clear
3rd June: Reports in India warned that the contagion expectation to follow up
suggest that a dwindling could continue to cause closely with their suppliers,
garment manufacturing major job losses in the support them on health and
workforce is becoming country’s RMG sector. safety and ensure sufficient
reliant on exporting PPE, Rubana Huq, president of measures are implemented
which it was only given the the association, says the to protect them,” ETI says.Supply Chain Map_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/07/2020 16:13 Page 11
SUPPLY CHAIN
12th June: Fashion firms industry, and right now, people was forced to close
Inditex, Primark and many thousands if not tens in Karnataka. The Swedish
Bestseller say they’ve of thousands of garment fast fashion firm is said to
launched investigations factories around the world have retracted an order for
into allegations of mass are running out of it,” he goods which subsequently
▲ Labour contractors had
sackings of trade union wrote in an op-ed in Dhaka’s abandoned the workers sank the business that’d
members and officials at Daily Star newspaper. and had even switched off struggled amidst the
their suppliers in their mobile phones,” the pandemic. H&M says it
report read.
Myanmar. Meanwhile in 19th June: The ILO will work with the
Cambodia, it’s agreed that introduces a series of guides supplier and local unions
discussions over a new to help garment factories in to reach a resolution.
minimum wage will begin Asia navigate the COVID-19
in July, though they’re pandemic and build 25th June: A new report
expected to be contentious. business resilience. The six from the Society for Labour
‘action-orientated’ guides and Development (SLD)
15th June: The European address: managing labour rights organisation
Union has pledged to cashflow, reducing costs, paints a concerning picture
support Cambodia by finding alternative sources of the plight of garment
mobilising grants and loans of income, establishing workers during the
to the sum of an estimated an online presence, coronavorus lockdown in
US$483 million, but has organising factories for India. Of 100 garment
failed to mention whether it safer and more efficient workers from India’s National
will postpone the country’s operations, and communi- Capital Region, only 19 had
partial suspension from the cating with workers. ▲ Suspended from the received any payment from
EBA, Cambodia could lose
Everything But Arms out on trade benefits factory bosses – and just one
scheme. There’s reason to be 20th June: Bangladesh is totalling US$1bn. of the 44 sub-contracted
more optimistic in named as one of the worst workers in the survey had
Myanmar, with the countries in the world for received any money.
government saying foreign workers’ rights – with those
investor interest in the in the garment industry 28th June: A new report
country’s apparel industry among the worst affected, urges the Sri Lankan
remains high. according to the 2020 ITUC government to modernise
Global Rights Index. the country’s garment and
16th June: There’s relief in “Workers in Bangladesh are textiles industry following
Karnataka, after the exposed to mass dismissals, the economic damage
government decides to U- arrests, violence and state caused by the coronavirus
turn on its controversial repression against peaceful pandemic. It also calls for
decision to increase protests. In the garment the establishment of a
garment worker hours, sector, strikes are often met comprehensive social
which could have with extreme brutality by security system.
otherwise reached close to police forces,” the report says.
60 a week. In Indonesia, ▼ Collectively, these six 29th June: Six garment
there’s word that 24th June: H&M is accused garment factories employ manufacturing facilities in
authorities plan to restrict around 5,000 people,
of being the reason one the Bangladeshi city of
whose incomes have
garment imports as to factory employing 1,200 been jeopardised. Chattogram say they’re set
protect custom for native to lose out on a combined
suppliers post COVID-19. US$3.2 million in orders
after being forced to suspend
17th June: There’s calls from operations due to a location-
Bangladeshi business owner based lockdown period.
Mostafiz Uddin for the Uttor Kattoli, a
industry to work together to neighbourhood in the city,
save factories throughout was listed a ‘red zone’ earlier
the coronavirus crisis. “Cash in the month due to a surge
is the lifeblood of our in COVID-19 cases. ❱
ecotextilenews | 11Supply Chain Map_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/07/2020 16:13 Page 12
30th June: Cambodia’s pandemic to provide and Sri Lanka are not in a
Minister of Labour Ith emergency support to financial position to
Samheng urges his peers struggling communities in remain operational and
in authority to address the Dhaka. Until November, a pay wages.
plight of workers and find new project will provide
resolutions amidst the COVID-19 safety guidance, 9th July: The GMAC seeks
coronavirus pandemic, access to medical support the ILO’s support in calls
after yet more protests and counselling, and to postpone the country’s
over factory closures and essential items such as partial suspension from
uncertainty over pay. food and medical kits to the Everything But Arms
There’s also action in those in need. agreement. Unless
Vietnam as stakeholders postponed, Cambodia
come together to agree a 6th July: The Ethical will lose out on trade
plan to help the country’s ▼ Los Angeles’ garment Trading Initiative and benefits to the sum of
manufacturing industry
apparel industry survive employs upwards of FairWear publish joint around US$1 billion.
the coronavirus pandemic. 50,000 people, many of guidance for brands on how Meanwhile, Bangladeshi
which have been called to conduct their supplier factories are accused of
upon to produce PPE
1st July: A survey of throughout the pandemic. relationships during the targeting pregnant
suspended factory pandemic. The COVID-19: women when downsizing
workers in Cambodia, Loss of Jobs and Wages Series their workforces.
whose sites have closed is based on four webinars
either temporarily or which lay out guidance to 13th July: One factory in
permanently in light of the member brands on Los Angeles is found to be a
coronavirus pandemic, upholding their responsi- hotbed for the coronavirus,
highlights the severity of bilities to workers. as it registers more than
their financial difficulties 300 cases, leading to the
with respondents 7th July: A collective of deaths of four. The city’s
suggesting they’re eating workers’ rights organi- Department of Public
less and have been forced sations have submitted a Health is locked in a war of
to sell land in some cases complaint against fashion words with the site’s boss,
to repay debts. titan C&A to saying inadequate safety
the Complaints and measures caused the spike.
2nd July: The ILO partners Disputes Committee of Factory manager Dov
with both the BGMEA and the Dutch Agreement on Charney says there’s been
the BKMEA (Bangladesh’s Sustainable Garments and no clear instruction on how
knitwear association) to Textiles, accusing the best to protect workers.
establish a virtual retailer of turning a blind
platform that can assist eye to rights violations 16th July: Workers’ rights
workers with guidance on regarding wages at one groups speak out after
▼ In addition to medical
handling COVID-19 as kits, two information of its supplier factories incidents in both
they return to work. This hotlines will become in Myanmar. Bangladesh and India
‘RMG Learning Hub’ has a functional, led by highlight how
qualified physicians.
three-fold strategy to 8th July: In the third issue unscrupulous bosses are
increase awareness, of its ‘Emperor Has No targeting factories with
develop social dialogue Clothes’ report, the Asia established unions and
between stakeholders in Floor Wage Alliance calls closing them under the
Bangladesh and ensure for further action from pretence that it’s due to
best safety practices brands and governments to the impacts of COVID-19.
are followed. protect garment factories Scott Nova, of the Workers’
and their workers from the Rights Consortium,
3rd July: The OHS impact of the coronavirus reaffirms: “It is illegal to
(Occupational health and pandemic. The report dismiss workers because
safety) Initiative, which highlighted that the of their union affiliation or
has run for four years to majority of suppliers in to close a factory because
date, intervenes amidst the Cambodia, Indonesia, India it is unionised.” ■
12 | ecotextilenewsMOVING TOWARDS A CIRCULAR ECONOMY
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www.ercagroup.comRSA Consumer Survey_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/07/2020 16:10 Page 14
How COVID-19
could save
fashion
secondhand, repair or rental
Much has been written about how the fashion services to their offers in the
industry might emerge from the pandemic. coming year,” she said.
Warden also expects to see
Simon Glover reports on analysis from the customers putting pressure
RSA (Royal Society for the encouragement of on brands over their
Arts, Manufactures and Commerce) on how treatment of the people who
the crisis could lead to positive change. Which, if any, make their clothes, with 69
of the following per cent of people wanting
statements are the fashion industry to
H
alf of all UK awareness about reasons why create better pay, conditions
consumers think sustainability and social you usually and job security for
the fashion issues in fashion. buy clothing? garment workers.
industry should She suggested this desire ● To replace worn “There was very strong
do whatever it takes to for change needed to be out clothing concern in the survey about
become more environ- supported by the fashion 81% the conditions of workers
mentally sustainable after industry, as well as the across the supply chain. I
COVID-19 and just 19 per government, and suggested ● To reward myself think it’s a really good signal
cent want it to go back to four key ways that the 37% they are kind of joining the
normal, according to a industry might use this ● To feel more confident dots around supply chain
recent survey carried out opportunity to embrace the 30% concerns and the way
for the RSA. circular economy. they are buying fashion,”
The poll of 2,125 members The first relates to ● To help make me more Warden said.
comfortable during
of the public, conducted by consumer behaviour. With an activity e.g. sport “I think the virus has done
market research company half of us buying less clothes 29% a lot, in a disturbing way, to
Populus, also found that during lockdown and show the connections
more than a third of women planning to make long-term ● To distract or between supply chains and
entertain myself
planned to buy fewer clothes changes to our fashion the global economy that
after lockdown, and that habits, Warden thinks we’ll
12% many people won’t have
nearly half of those surveyed be buying fewer but better ● To show my seen before. The interesting
wanted to see more ethical quality clothes and taking identity to others thing is that they are starting
fashion supply chains. more care of those we do 12% to think about what it means
Josie Warden, associate buy, as well as buying for a whole industry to
● To fit in with
director of the RSA’s Design second-hand. friends or peers change quite radically and
and Innovation Team who “Resale platforms like 5% what that means for workers
is leading the organisation’s Depop have seen a surge in across the supply chain.”
work on the move towards a sales in the last few weeks, ● Other Thirdly, Warden said the
more circular economy, said and we can expect to see 5% fashion industry needed to
the results indicated the more brands and retailers ● None of these take real notice of
pandemic had raised exploring adding 3% consumers’ demands for itRSA Consumer Survey_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 20/07/2020 16:11 Page 15
CONSUMERS
to do “whatever it takes to really hard for businesses before, they’re thinking that
become environmentally and even governments; they in the longer term they
sustainable”, such as making kind of steer away from want their behaviour to be a
clothing last for longer and those conversations about bit different.
be repairable. what is growth for, what are “In the UK, I think the
“To achieve these demands, we trying to achieve, what is government could do a lot
the industry needs to rethink a good society, and how are more. The fact that they
its business models. Small people included in that. didn’t take on board any of
tweaks, such as having a “I think that Generation X ▲ Josie Warden, the recommendations from
associate director of
‘sustainable’ line or using are doing a huge amount to the RSA’s Design and the Environmental Audit
materials such as organic bring that forward and I Innovation Team. Committee last year is a
cotton or recycled polyester think if we can have some of signal that they aren’t as
won’t cut it,” she said. those deeper conversations serious about this as they
“The challenge at the and really challenge the should be.
moment is that we can see structures that we have built “This is also a moment for
An EAC inquiry into
isolated pockets of activity business and industry fashion led to the 2019 citizens to think: ‘Why am I
and the kind of circular around, that could influence report, Fixing Fashion: doing this? Can I reduce the
conversation where a huge amount of change.” Clothing Consumption amount I’m buying?’. There
and Sustainability, which
consumers say industry has Explaining the rationale made a number of are opportunities for citizens
to change, and industry says behind the survey, Warden radical proposals all of to say to businesses:
consumers need to change explained: “We thought it which were rejected by ‘Actually we really want you
the government.
before they’ll act,” she said. was an interesting time to see to go down this direction,
“There is a sense now that how lockdown was affecting please help us to do that and
all of us are saying that we people’s behaviour. We we’ll help you as well’.”
all know this needs to wanted to understand a bit Warden admits that the
change and there needs to around whether people were The crisis fashion industry itself has a
be a much more public buying more or less, and why provides an mountain to climb, but she
conversation which will they thought that was. sees hope in developments
enable things to change. “People were bringing up
opportunity such as the recent
“Consumers and citizens things they intended to do in to build a announcement by Gucci
have to recognise what the future, such as buying bridge to a that it will no longer be
constraints a business is second-hand more, trying to taking part in fashion weeks.
under and encourage them buy better quality and
better future “There is a long way to go
to be more transparent to maybe fewer items. They for the for an industry that has been
have that open conversation. were saying they intend to fashion called the favourite child of
I think that’s how we work repair and reuse things more. capitalism to reinvent itself
together constructively to “It will be interesting to see
industry for a sustainable future. But
push this forward.” what actually does happen reinvention is in its DNA,”
The last of Warden’s four but people were not just she said.
key areas for positive change saying they’re going back ▼ Sustainable “At the RSA we think our
is the growing influence of to what they were doing fashion protest relationship with fashion
younger consumers, the so- epitomises many of the
called ‘Gen Z’, who she says social and environmental
are increasingly lining up consequences of today’s
behind more ethical brands. economic structures.
“They may have the least “Rather than the current
purchasing power but I see a ‘take, make, waste’ view of
really interesting shift with consumption we want to see
this group in their values a more ‘regenerative’
and their desire to be approach based on renewal
involved in conversations and reuse. The current
that are actually trying to crisis provides an
address quite deep issues in opportunity to start building
society,” she said. a bridge to a better future
“Some of those issues are for the fashion industry.” ■
ecotextilenews | 15BooHoo_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 21/07/2020 08:54 Page 16
supplied Boohoo were being
paid as little as £3.50 an
hour – less than half of the
minimum wage.
Boohoo quickly tried to
distance itself from the
allegations but the mud was
sticking. Retail giants,
including Next, Asos and
Zalando, announced that
they would no longer be
stocking Boohoo clothing
until they were convinced
its supply chains were
risk free.
This was more of a PR
blow than a financial one.
Behind the Label non- Sales through third-party
Boohoo profit, linking conditions in
Boohoo’s supplier factories
in Leicester with a spike in
platforms accounted for less
than four per cent of
Boohoo’s revenues in the
under fire
COVID-19 cases which last financial year.
saw the city forced to However, £1.5 billion was
re-enter lockdown. also wiped off the company’s
Labour Behind the Label stock market value following
again suggested that garment
factories in Leicester, which
have long been renowned
the controversy.
And the brand’s
reputation took a battering
for illegally low pay and on social media which is
Lockdown had been good for Dickensian conditions, had vital to Boohoo’s business
Boohoo – until conditions in its worked as normal through model and key to
the pandemic, without understanding why it buys
supplier factories in Leicester were bothering with social so much product in the UK
linked with a coronavirus spike distancing or PPE. compared to rival brands
which saw the city forced back into “As the biggest brand who prefer to source from
lockdown. Simon Glover reports sourcing from Leicester, cheaper countries such as
Boohoo calls the shots in Bangladesh, Cambodia
on the troubles now facing the the local supply chain,” and Vietnam.
British ultra-fast fashion brand. said Dominique Muller, Boohoo likes to source
policy director for Labour locally because it’s fast. The
Behind the Label. company became one of
C
OVID-19 was the “Government authorities fashion’s quickest growing
proverbial ill wind must recognise that the lack companies on the back of
for Boohoo, of proper legislation and reacting instantly to what
thanks to the monitoring is endangering celebrities and influencers
surge in online shopping. workers lives – it is time to are wearing on platforms
While most brands took a ensure that workers in such as Instagram and
tumble, its shares shot up by Boohoo calls Leicester are protected and producing inexpensive
22 per cent and it had the better practice in the copies within days.
confidence to splash out
the shots in garment industry respected.” But to sell these fast
£5.25 million on buying the local Days later, the Sunday turnaround products to its
Warehouse and Oasis. supply chain Times newspaper published young consumers, it also
But all of that changed an undercover investigation needs to be cheap. Labour
Dominique Muller,
with the publication of a Labour Behind which said workers in a Behind the Label alleges
report, by the Labour the Label factory in Leicester that that, to sell dresses for lessBooHoo_JM_Ecotextile News Magazine 21/07/2020 08:54 Page 17
BRAND SOURCING
than £10 and £5 bikinis, too relationships where non- featured in media reports
many corners have been cut. compliance with our Code of had actually been made in
Boohoo has a lot to lose. Conduct is found. Morocco and shipped back
Worth more than Marks & “Our commitment to an to the UK to be repackaged.
Spencer and Asos combined, incremental £10 million of It said that one of the
its brands include Nasty Gal, investment demonstrates companies named, Jaswal
PrettyLittleThing, MissPap our resolve to enforce the Fashions Limited, was not a
and BoohooMAN, as well as highest standards of ethics, supplier to the group, and
more recent acquisitions compliance and the goods concerned had
Warehouse, Oasis, Coast and transparency for the benefit been ordered by its Nasty
Karen Millen. of all garment workers.” Gal brand from Revolution
The company said it was However, Muller was less Clothing Co Ltd which had
“shocked and appalled” by than impressed by Boohoo’s sub-contracted Morefray
the allegations and response, countering: “The Ltd to manufacture them
appointed a leading expert in appointment of a criminal in Morocco.
business crime, Alison Levitt liability QC and the focus “Our investigation to date
QC, to head an independent on identifying the actions of has not found evidence of
investigation into pay and a ‘few’ bad apples once suppliers paying workers
conditions at its supply again shows how Boohoo £3.50 per hour,” continued
factories in Leicester. has not understood the the statement. “However we
Boohoo is now investing seriousness of the issue nor have found other evidence
£10 million (US$12.5m) on
We are is willing to take responsi- of non-compliance with our
trying to eradicate supply deeply bility for its supply chain code of conduct and the
chain malpractice. As well as shocked and business practices. group has taken the
Levitt’s probe, the money “We are calling for the decision to immediately
will be used to accelerate a
by the urgent development of new terminate its relationship
separate supply chain allegations regulations that will firmly with both suppliers.”
review being carried out by John Lyttle, link the business models of Retail analysts will be
ethical auditors Verisio and Boohoo Group CEO fast fashion companies and looking keenly at Boohoo
compliance specialists the need for proper over the coming months to
Bureau Veritas. enforcement of labour laws see whether the company
John Lyttle, Boohoo Group and brand responsibility can weather the storm and
CEO, commented: “As a for all workers in their hold on to its place at the
board we are deeply shocked supply chain. heart of the ultra fast
by the recent allegations “We want to see a vibrant fashion industry.
about the Leicester garment and healthy garment Financial advisers, such as
industry. We wish to reiterate industry in Leicester – one the Motley Fool website,
how seriously we are taking in which workers are have advised investors to
these matters and we will protected and paid what steer clear of Boohoo stock
not hesitate to terminate any they are due. Closures of but, tellingly, the brand’s
sub-contractors and raids largest independent
here and there will do shareholder, Jupiter Asset
nothing to curb the Management, actually
systematic issues in the increased its holding at the
industry. We will be closely height of the controversy,
following this up with the even as Boohoo’s share price
local and central authorities went into freefall.
and with Boohoo itself to Jupiter would appear to
ensure justice for the believe that the market for a
workers and a better future.” £5 bikini is unlikely to be
Boohoo says that it has affected by concerns over the
unearthed some inaccu- pay and conditions of
racies in the claims made garment workers in Leicester.
against it, including that Only time will tell whether
some of the garments or not it is correct. ■
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NEWS
Fast Retailing among Make UK retailers
plot course
Fashion Circular inductees for net-zero
NEW YORK – The Ellen to ensure jeans are made in With support from the LONDON - Next, Amazon UK,
MacArthur Foundation’s a way that is better for the Laudes Foundation, Mava IKEA and Marks & Spencer are
Make Fashion Circular environment and the Foundation and People’s among 20 major UK retailers
initiative has welcomed health of garment workers. Postcode Lottery, Make that have pledged to jointly
six new recruits: Fast Make Fashion Circular Fashion Circular is vying develop a net-zero roadmap for
Retailing, Guess, Lee, has aligned industry to accelerate sweeping the retail sector, setting a more
Nordstrom, Wrangler and leaders including Burberry, changes on the sustain- ambitious target than the
Vestiaire Collective. Gap Inc., H&M Group, ability front by aligning national 2050 requirement.
The initiative was HSBC, Inditex, PVH and stakeholders in a mission The coalition has said it will
launched back in 2017 and Stella McCartney as core to promote circularity. publish the roadmap in the run-
has set out to influence partners. This roster of This has been epitomised up to COP26 in Glasgow, which
fashion industry brands and retailers has by its Jeans Redesign has been postponed to
stakeholders in best now been strengthened project – backed by Tommy November 2021 because of the
addressing sustainability greatly, having garnered Hilfiger, H&M and Gap – COVID-19 pandemic, in a
within their supply chains. new support from the which establishes declaration coordinated by the
Just one venture launched Uniqlo brand’s parent guidelines on durability, British Retail Consortium (BRC).
by the initiative’s company, Fast Retailing, as material health, recycla- The group will work with each
organisers is the Jeans well as household high bility and traceability that other, BRC environmental
Redesign project which, street names in Guess, Lee, partnering companies experts and third parties to
based on the principles of Wrangler, Nordstrom and should strive to meet. define the roadmap’s time-
the circular economy, aims resale platform Vestiaire. Web: bit.ly/3fsGAzf bound measures towards
complete net decarbonisation
Podcast: ahead of the 2050 deadline.
Three key areas, regarded as
Ecotextile Talks the UK retail sector’s largest
– Behind sources of emissions, will be
analysed. These are comprised
the News of upstream supply chains,
WAKEFIELD – Have you ever customers and direct
wondered what goes on behind operations including shops,
the scenes in our editorial distribution centres,
newsroom? If so, why not have a warehouses, transport
listen to the first two episodes of and logistics.
our new series of Ecotextile Talks You can listen to Ecotextile Talks podcasts The BRC claims that there is
on Spotify, Apple, Google and Deezer.
podcasts available on Apple, currently no other net-zero
Google, Spotify and Deezer. Behind the News podcast series the issue of ‘chemical leasing’ – roadmap for the UK’s retail
Like good journalists we’ve was born at the end of June and or chemical circularity – which is sector that encompasses all of
always kept these confidential the first few episodes have being promoted as a new way these emissions sources.
discussions well under wraps. already been quietly released on to drive the fashion sector Also signing the declaration are
That was until our working all major platforms. towards new, more sustainable Aldi, the Booksellers
circumstances during the In our pilot episode we talk business models. Association, Boots, Co-op,
COVID-19 lockdown gave us an about the challenges of sourcing Episode 1 meanwhile, gives Costa Coffee, Dixons Carphone,
idea to launch our remote original news during lockdown listeners an insight into what Greggs, Kingfisher, Lidl,
editorial chats as a series of and picked out a few key stories our team thinks will happen to Missguided, Musgrave, Ocado,
easy listening ‘on the couch’ that managed to turn our heads textile trade shows and other TJX, WH Smith and Morrison’s.
style podcasts about the latest over the last month. These events post-pandemic. Will they Several of these have already
social and environmental include the dynamic and all survive? How will those that unveiled net-zero targets
issues impacting our industry. troublesome situation around survive evolve? deadlined at 2050 or sooner.
The new Ecotextile Talks: worker safety in Bangladesh and Web: bit.ly/2CRaTRR Web: bit.ly/2ZpgcAK
ecotextilenews | 19You can also read
