The Bolognese Valleys of the Idice, Savena and Setta

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The Bolognese Valleys of the Idice, Savena and Setta
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      The Bolognese Valleys of the Idice,
      Savena and Setta

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   The Rivers                                          the Futa state highway SS 65 and the road
   The valleys of the tributaries to the right of      along the valley-bottom, which continues as
   the Reno punctuate the central area of the          far as the Lake of Castel dell’Alpi, passing the
   Bolognese Apennines in a truly surprising           majestic Gorges of Scascoli. Along the river,
   variety of colours and landscapes. They are         there are numerous mills, some of which can
   the Idice, Savena and Setta Rivers, of which        be visited, constructed over the centuries.
   only the Idice continues its course onto the        Before entering the plains, the Savena cros-
   plains, as far as the Park of the Po Delta.         ses the Regional Park of Bolognese Gypsums
                                                       and Abbadessa Gullies, which is also crossed
   The Idice                                           by the River Idice.
   The Idice starts on Monte Oggioli, near the
   Raticosa Pass, and is the largest of the rivers
   in these valleys. Interesting from a geologi-
   cal and naturalistic point of view, its valley
   offers many reasons for a visit. Particularly
   beautiful is the stretch of river where it joins
   the Zena Valley: this is where the Canale dei
   Mulini (mills) branches off, continuing alon-
   gside it until it reaches the plains, in the ter-
   ritory of San Lazzaro di Savena. Flowing
   through the Valleys of Campotto, the Idice
   finally joins the Reno. Here an interesting
   system of manmade basins stop the Reno’s
   water flowing into the Idice’s bed in dry
   periods.

   The Setta
   The Setta’s journey begins in Tuscany, in the
   Province of Florence, but a few kilometres
   from its source, it already enters Bolognese
   territory. A typical Apennine river of a tor-
   rential nature, its valley has always been a
   crossroads for people and goods to and
   from Tuscany. Today this land of travellers
   offers tourists innumerable opportunities of
   discovery along ancient trails, on foot, hor-
   seback or by mountain bike. In the territory
   of Castiglione dei Pepoli, one of its tributa-
   ries, the River Brasimone, flows into the Lake
   of Santa Maria, which, together with the
   basins of Suviana and Brasimone, make up
   the Regional Park of the Lakes.
   From the Setta, the Romans built an under-
   ground aqueduct (18 kilometres of tunnel,
   some of which can be visited) which still
   today carries water to Bologna. A little fur-
   ther on, about fifty kilometres from its sour-
   ce, the river ends its course, joining the
   Reno.

   The Savena
   First of all the pronunciation: we say Sávena
   and not Savéna, as would be natural accor-
   ding to Italian phonetics. An Etruscan term
   meaning “vein of water”, the Savena and
   Reno are the territorial borders of the city of
   Bologna: Dante Alighieri in the Divine
   Comedy identifies the Bolognese as living
   “between the Savena and Reno” (Inferno,             River Setta
   Canto 18th). The river’s course is followed by      Photo by Provincia di Bologna

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      The Bolognese Valleys of the Idice,                                                              H
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      Savena and Setta                                                                                 Tu
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      the Apennines                                                                                    al
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      Tourist itinerary                       Not to be missed:                                        th
      The itinerary starts in the Apen-       The Bread Route and the ancient mills on the Idice       th
      nines: our main rood will be the        and Savena                                               be
      historical Futa road, on the            The Route of the Gods and Bologna-Florence               an
      range between the Savena and            Trekking Trails                                          lis
      Idice, from which there are infi-       The Natural Parks                                        re
      nite possible deviations to             The Gardens of Casoncello                                Fa
      discover the treasures of the           The spa-village of Monterenzio                           re
      various valleys.                        The Monzuno Golf Club                                    Ce
                                              The Futa and the Raticosa Pass                           ge
      From the SS 65 “Futa”                   The Etruscan-Celtic village of Monte Bibele              liv
      Highway to the Idice Valley              and the Monterenzio Archaeological Museum               th
      - Pianoro                               The Sanctuary of Boccadirio                              Bo
      - Loiano                                The chestnuts, mushrooms, truffles and their festivals   of
      - Monghidoro                            The acrobatic park of Monghidoro                         be
      - Monterenzio                           The Loiano Observatory                                   su
                                              The Zena Valley                                          th
      The Valleys between                                                                              an
      the Savena and Setta                                                                             th
      - Monzuno                                                                                        ni
      - San Benedetto Val di Sambro                                                                    ry
      - Castiglione dei Pepoli                                                                         of
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                                                       Monghidoro                                       n
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The Bolognese Valleys of the Idice, Savena and Setta
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   History and environment                              Buon appetito
   Crossed by the ancient pilgrims’ route from          The Bolognese Apennines in these valleys
   Tuscany, the territory of the Bolognese              has remained faithful to the simplicity and
   Valleys of the Idice, Savena and Setta has           flavours of the traditional inn: mountain coo-
   always been an obligatory passage for com-           king which unites the specialities of Emilia
   mercial and cultural exchanges between               and Tuscany. The “tortelli di patate” (filled
   North and Central Italy. Human presence in           pasta) and steaks “alla fiorentina” (T-bone)
   these Valleys has been found dating back to          are a must, as well as unusual dishes such as
   the Palaeolithic Period and on Monte Bibele,         the “agliata” (a garlic-based sauce). Every year
   between Monterenzio and Loiano, Etruscans            in autumn there are festivals based around
   and Celts left important traces of their civi-       chestnuts, mushrooms and truffles, perfect
   lisations. Created to house the numerous             occasions to taste the most classic Apen-
   relics brought to light in the area, the “Luigi      nines products. The ancient presence in the
   Fantini” Archaeological Museum in Monte-             area of water mills has led to the baking tra-
   renzio today has one of the most important           ditions of these valleys, celebrated by the
   Celtic collections in Italy. According to le-        “Bolognese Mountains Bread Route”.
   gendary sources, the Etruscan King Ocno
   lived in this area, as also recalled by Virgilio,    How to get there
   the legendary founder of Felsina (today’s            - A1 Motorway Bologna-Florence: exit Sasso
   Bologna), as well as Parma and Mantua. Signs           Marconi, Rioveggio, Pian del Voglio and Ron-
   of the successive passage of the Romans can            cobilaccio.
   be recognised in the Flaminia Minor, a con-          - Roads: State highway SS 64 Futa (Pianoro,
   sular road used by the Roman legions on                Loiano, Monghidoro and Firenzuola in Tu-
   their way to conquer Gaul. Then the castles            scany). State highway SS 325 Val di Setta
   and towers in these valleys take us back to            Val Bisenzio (Sasso Marconi, Vado, Rioveg-
   the troubled medieval affairs of the Apen-             gio, Pian di Setta, Castiglione dei Pepoli
   nines. The Lord of a large part of the territo-        and Montepiano in Tuscany).
   ry in the 11th century was Marquis Bonifacio           State highway SP 65 Savena Valley-bottom.
   of Tuscany, the father of Matilde of Canossa,        - Railway: the “Direttissima” Bologna-Florence,
   who chose to reside in the Castle of Pianoro,          with the possibility of transporting bicycles;
   then destroyed by the Bolognese in 1377. The           stations in Rastignano, Pianoro, Monzuno,
   countryside of these valleys has remained              Vado, San Benedetto Val di Sambro e Ca-
   wild and uncontaminated in many places.                stiglione dei Pepoli.
   The landscape is typical of the mid-Apen-            - Buses ATC www.atc.bo.it. connect
   nine mountains, where the highest peaks are            the towns to each other and Bologna
   never more than 1,200 metres. Ideal for
   exploring slowly on foot, horseback or cy-               Tourist Information
   cling, here you can experience the emotions              Monghidoro - IAT Tourist Office
   of following in the centuries of footsteps of            Via Matteotti, 1 - 40063 Monghidoro (BO)
   armies, pilgrims and writers.                            Tel. 051.6555132 - turismo@tuttoservizispa.it
                                                            www.tuttoservizispa.it
     Events                                                 Opening times:
    Favolando per le Valli                                  From Monday to Saturday 9-12.30 am / 4-7 pm
    (Fairy Tales in the Valleys)                            Sunday (from June to September)       9-12.30 am
    Festival internazionale dedicato al teatro su
    misura per bambini e ragazzi ospitato dai
    comuni delle Valli Bolognesi tra Idice, Save-
    na e Setta. www.vallibolognesi.it

                                                            The Bolognese Valleys Tourist System,
    History and Culture                                     created by the “Five Bolognese Valleys
    The Bolognese art of Bell-ringing                       Mountain Community” in conjunction with
    Between Monzuno and Monghidoro, an                      the “Idice, Savena and Setta Tourist Consor-
    ancient musical tradition still survives, linked        tium”, offers unique proposals to tourists,
    to the sound of bells. The roots of the Bolo-           allowing them to immerse themselves fully in
    gnese art of Bell-ringing date back to the mid-         uncontaminated countryside, rich in history.
    16th century: it requires a particular “athletic-       Viale Risorgimento, 1 - 40065 Pianoro (BO)
    musical” technique, involving on average four           Tel. 051.6527743 - Fax 051.774690
    or five ringers (one for each bell), still passed       info@vallibolognesi.it
    down from generation to generation.                     www.vallibolognesi.it

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      The Ancient Apennine Roads
      between history and legend
      The Flaminia Minore and the Via degli Dei           With the rebuilding of the road in the 18th           Pia
      Between the Futa Pass and the Via Emilia, the       century, restoration work was also carried out        up
      last section of the ancient military and pil-       on the Customs Houses of La Ca’ in Bologne-           ly
      grims’ road known as “Flaminia Minore” or           se territory, now demolished, and the Floren-         m
      “Flaminia Militare” winds. Built by Consul Fla-     tine one of Filigare, near Monghidoro. Built on       “la
      minio in 187 BC, the road links Bologna and         the wishes of Grand Duke Leopoldo II, the             ba
      Arezzo and served to connect Rome as quic-          ancient Customs House is still surprisingly           co
      kly as possible to the new colonies which           magnificent. The Customs Houses survived              ar
      were being created along the Via Emilia. Its        until 1859, when, at Villa Loup near Loiano, it       an
      route along the ridge between the Idice,            was decided to abolish all duty barriers in anti-     st
      Quaderna and upper-Sillaro valleys, as well as      cipation of the imminent Union of Italy (1861).       of
      having splendid views of uncontaminated lan-                                                              M
      dscape, passes through places of great milita-          History and Culture
      ry, historical and cultural importance. The             The Futa and the Grand Tour                       In
      road took on greater relevance in the Middle            Just as the pilgrimages of the various Jubi-      Ch
      Ages: from 1200 onwards, the most ancient               lees marked the history of the Via Toscana        in
      stretch of the Via Francigena, the Cisa, beca-          in the Middle Ages, so the passage through        pi
      me less important and pilgrims from Nor-                the Apennines became fundamental to the           of
      thern Europe, heading for Rome, preferred to            Grand Tour which, from the 16th to 19th cen-      alt
      travel along the Via Emilia to Bologna and              tury, saw legions of young aristocrats and
      then join the roads which followed the an-              artists visit our nation. Culture, adventure      A
      cient Flaminia Minore. The most famous is the           and majestic landscapes were the attrac-          m
      Via dello Stale or Via degli Dei (Route of the          tions which led travellers to face the dan-       ex
      Gods), which still today links Bologna and Flo-         gers involved. On their return to their           (a
      rence in a series of trails.                            various European countries, they recoun-          St
                                                              ted the fear and emotions of travelling a-        cl
      The Futa                                                long the Bologna-Florence stretch in either       lo
      The “Strada della Futa”, known to the Bolo-             direction. Montaigne (1580), Goethe (1786),
      gnese as Via Toscana and to the Tuscans as Via          Casanova (1761), the Marquis de Sade (1776),      Th
      Bolognese, follows the Savena Valley and                Stendhal (1811 and 1817), Sir Walter Scott        of
      then rises along the ridge between the Savena           and Emperor Frederick of Russia are only a        w
      and Idice to the Raticosa Pass. From there it           few of the illustrious travellers who wrote       ta
      reaches the Futa Pass and then Flo-rence. As            their impressions of the Futa Pass in their       Ap
      far back as the 14th century, a similar trail was       diaries. These writings are a rich testimony      du
      chosen by the Bologna City Council as the               to episodes which also underline the per-         th
      official road to Tuscany. This success was con-         sonalities of the various characters. In 1811,
      firmed on the occasion of the 1300 Jubilee,             Stendhal visited Pianoro, Loiano and Mon-         Ca
      when the Via Toscana was recommended to                 ghidoro and wrote: “Two Frenchmen travel-         Ph
      pilgrims journeying to Rome, since it was con-          ling in a good coach with an intelligent ser-
      sidered safer than the others and moreover,             vant can transport the pleasures of a dra-
      was equipped with inns, hospices, parish                wing room into the Apennines, but they
      churches and monasteries, all fundamental               will not enjoy the Apennines as I do, travel-
      for travellers. In 1759, the Grand Duke of Tu-          ling alone in an open carriage”. Both De
      scany, Francesco di Lorena, achieved his aim            Montagne and Goethe, almost two centu-
      of improving the ancient road by building a             ries apart, in their Voyages in Italy (1580 the
      more efficient means of communication bet-              former and 1786 the latter) passed through
      ween Florence and Bologna. The Grand Duke’s             Loiano and Monghidoro. Many other more
      project had to overcome the opposition of               or less famous travellers followed them.
      the Papacy, which would have preferred the              Then progress and the inventions of steam,
      main link between Rome and its northern                 electric and internal combustion engines
      possessions not to leave the pontifical terri-          changed the world, the ways of travelling
      tories, passing instead through the Marches.            and so the most important roads changed.

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                                                                                     Pianoro

8th       Pianoro is the first town you reach travelling         Events
ut        up the Futa highway. The centre was drastical-         The Bologna-Raticosa Time Trials
e-        ly damaged in the Second World War, so                 Motoring fans should not miss the histori-
n-        much so that Pietro Nenni described it as the          cal “Bologna-Raticosa Time Trials”, 603
on        “largest and saddest example of Nazi-fascist           bends against the clock in a race for clas-
he        barbarity”. Following the devastation and the          sic cars. Started in 1950, it was for years
 ly       consequent post-war reconstruction, there              one of the most difficult time trials in
ed        are now two distinct parts - Pianoro Nuovo             Italy, for distance second only to the
  it      and Pianoro Vecchio. However, the territory            Parma-Berceto. Occasionally staged until
ti-       still has numerous examples of the thousands           1969, the Bologna-Raticosa was reintrodu-
          of years of history here, in particular from the       ced in 2001 on the road between Pianoro
          Middle ages.                                           Vecchio and Livergnano. Since then, it has
                                                                 taken place every year.
          In Pianoro Vecchio, it is worth visiting the           Info: www.velocitaraticosa.it
-         Church of San Giacomo Maggiore, restored
a         in the 18th century, together with a hospice for
h         pilgrims which can be traced back to the end           Nature
e         of the 12th century. Inside there is a notable         The Paleotto Park
-         altar piece from the School of the Francia.            The Paleotto Park stretches along the
d                                                                banks of the Savena on gently sloping land
e         A kilometre before Pianoro Vecchio, there is a         in the territories of Rastignano (Pianoro),
-         medieval tower, the Torre Lùpari, a precious           Sasso Marconi, San Lazzaro di Savena and
-         example of the art of the “Maestri comacini”           Bologna. The name comes from an ancient
r         (an ancient Guild of Master-builders and               noble Bolognese family and its history has
-         Stonemasons - page 71), which was later en-            been linked since the Middle Ages to an
-         closed in a 15th-century building with double-         ancient mill which used to exist nearby,
r         loggia.                                                and which is still recalled today in the na-
),                                                               me of a local area, Molino del Paleotto.
),        The village of Livergnano has the peculiarity          There is a notable ancient stone bridge
t         of a series of houses built deep into the rock,        providing a link to the old road for Sant’An-
a         with only their façades external. A fundamen-          drea di Sesto.
e         tal crossroads between the low and high
r         Apennines, it was the site of violent clashes
y         during the Second World War - this was one of          Museums
-         the main areas of the Gothic Line (page 160).          “WINTER LINE” MUSEUM
 ,                                                               via della Chiesa, 4 - Livergnano
-         Calanchi (gullies)                                     40066 Pianoro (BO) - Tel. 380.5074820
-         Photo by Provincia di Bologna                          Dug at the base of the Pliocene Foothills
-                                                                above Livergnano, the museum lies in a
-                                                                cave where there was an air-raid shelter
y                                                                during the Second World War. It collects
-                                                                soldiers’ objects of the 65th German Di-
e                                                                vision and 91st Division of the 361st USA
-                                                                Infantry, found along trenches and shelters
e                                                                which still today can be seen in the coun-
h                                                                tryside around Pianoro. Here, in the winter
e                                                                between 1944 and 1945, the two opposing
 .                                                               armies blocked passage to each other.
 ,
s
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 .

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      Along the Zena Valley, inside the Regional Park             Nature
      of Bolognese Gypsums and Abbadessa                          The Pian di Macina Amphibian Centre is
      Gullies (page 137), about 15 kilometres from                a European conservation project for spe-
      Pianoro, there is Monte delle Formiche (Mount               cies of amphibians which are rare or in
      of the Ants), with its highly original Sanctuary.           ranger of extinction, promoted and finan-
                                                                  ced by the Province of Bologna and the
       History and Culture                                        Pianoro Town Council. In the centre’s
       Monte delle Formiche (Mount of the Ants) is a              tanks and humid zones, you can discover
       rocky crag dominating the Idice and Zena                   strange animals such as the Spectacled
       Valleys. From its summit, there is an incredible           Salamander, the Alpine Newt and the
       view which, on particularly clear mornings, goes           Apennine Yellow-bellied Howler, whose
       from the Adriatic coast to the foothills of the            name refers to the sounds made by the
       Alps near Verona. The name of the mount                    males in the mating season. Workshops
       comes from a very particular natural phenome-              and educational meetings are organized.
       non: every year, in early September, swarms of             Info: Anfibi, Rettili e Territorio Onlus
       flying ants reach the summit for their nuptial             Tel. 051.774253 www.centroanfibi.it
       flight, then die around the Sanctuary of Santa
       Maria di Zena. Since 1400, the Sanctuary has
       been known as “Santa Maria Formicarum”, proof              Nature
       that the phenomenon already occurred then.                 The Zena Valley                                 As
       Even today, on occasion of the Festival of the             The Zena is a river which starts in the ter-    Ph
       Madonna, the ants are collected, blessed and               ritory of Loiano and ends its tortuous
       given out to the faithful: according to popular            journey in the River Idice, in San Lazzaro di   To
       belief, they have therapeutic properties.                  Savena. Near Loiano, in Quinzano, it pas-       to
                                                                  ses over a beautiful 30-metre-high water-       Un
                                                                  fall, which precipitates into a woody           km
      In the direction of Monte delle Formiche,                   gorge. The Zena valley has a road along
      there is the Castle of Zena, which belonged                 the valley-bottom, the first few kilome-         S
      to the Countess of Canossa. Of medieval ori-                tres of which are the provincial road S.P.16     O
      gins, its architecture today shows element                  “Val di Zena”, then becoming smaller roads       o
      from the 14th and 17th centuries. Another part              for Pianoro and Monterenzio. With its            g
      of the castle is a nearby tower, the Torre                  bucolic appearance, the valley alternates        I
      dell’Erede (14th century), which being on higher            between gentle meadow and wood-cove-             1
      ground, served as a lookout.                                red hills and the occasional gypsum, in a        n
                                                                  largely uncontaminated landscape of              D
      Towards the west, the stark, imposing peak                  great naturalistic and historical interest.      d
      of Monte Adone, dominating the ridge of                     Apart from the Etruscan-Celtic remains           t
      the watershed between the Savena, Setta                     found on Monte Bibele, on the river banks        f
      and Reno, is the highest point of the                       there is the Castle of Zena. With the            d
      Pliocene Foothills (page 60).                               Pliocene Foothills running along one side,       L
      In Pian di Macina, there is the Centro Anfibi               the valley contains the Regional Park of         l
      (Amphibian Centre), where you can encounter                 Bolognese Gypsums and Abbadessa                  f
      rare species of amphibians from the Apennines.              Gullies. About 2 kilometres upstream             I
                                                                  from the confluence with the River Idice,        o
       Museums                                                    just after entering the territory of San         T
       THE “CIVILTÀ DEI MESTIERI” MUSEUM                          Lazzaro di Savena, near the left bank of         u
       Via del Gualando, 2 - 40066 Pianoro (BO)                   the Zena, there is a famous cave, the
       Comune di Pianoro - Tel. 051.6529105                       Grotta del Farneto, in which important
       Tuttoservizi s.p.a. - Tel. 051.6555132                     proof of human presence dating back to
       The “Artisan Culture” Museum has collected                 the Neolithic period was discovered.
       numerous craftwork tools. Created as a genui-
       ne informative workshop, it is divided into dif-
       ferent sections: rural house, cellar, stables, agri-   Pianoro is a member of the “National Asso-
       cultural work, craftwork, weights and measures.        ciation of Wine Cities”.

       Events
       Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): in October              C’era una volta (Once upon a time): October
       and in November
       Festival of Santa Maria Assunta: 15th august           MARKET DAY: Wednesday
                                                                                                                  Hi
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-
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                                                                                            Loiano
-
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        Astronomical Observatory
 -      Photo by Provincia di Bologna                              Loiano is situated on the spur separating the
 s                                                                 Idice and Savena Valleys and, apart from the
 i      To justify a visit to Loiano, it would be enough           observatory, there is no lack of historical and
 -      to mention the astronomical observatory of the             artistic points of interest. The first is the
 -      University of Bologna, along the Futa highway, 2           Church of San Giacomo and Santa Marghe-
y       kms after Loiano towards Monghidoro.                       rita, built by the Augustinians in the 14th cen-
g                                                                  tury. Inside there is a painting by Calvaert and
 -       Science and Technique: Park of the Stars                  the Madonna del Carmine by Angelo Piò. In
6        On Monte Orzale, there is the Loiano Station              the town centre, there are still traces of the
 s       of the Astronomical Observatory of Bolo-                  15th-century porticos which were part of its
 s       gna, in a structure belonging to the National             original character.
 s       Institute of Astrophysics. Inaugurated on the
 -       15th November 1936, its biggest telescope is              The Corona inn is famous, being the place
a        named after the astronomer Giovanni                       where, in the 16th century, the annexation of
 f       Domenico Cassini, designer of the great sun-              Cento to Ferrara was negotiated, and where
t.       dial of San Petronio in Bologna. The observa-             on the 21st October 1786, Goethe stayed en
 s       tory of Loiano is the second biggest in Italy             route to Florence.
 s       for the dimension of the telescope (152 cm in
e        diameter). Thanks to a collaboration with the             Among the most characteristic settlements in
 ,       Loiano Town Council and the Province of Bo-               the territory is Anconella, an ancient 16th-cen-
 f       logna, the observatory is open to the public              tury village. The village develops around a
a        for evening visits from April to September.               particular construction with porticos, a rare
m        Info and bookings: Loiano Library                         example in the Apennines, which was once a
 ,       on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 10-12am.                       hospice for pilgrims. Inside you can admire a
n        Tel. 051.6543617                                          beautiful fireplace with the coat-of-arms of
 f       urp@comune.loiano.bologna.it                              the noble Bentivoglio family. In the area it is
e                                                                  also still possible to see the so-called “buse
 t                                                                 nelle lastre”, caves dug into the sandstone,
o                                                                  once used as inhabitations and store rooms,
                                                                   and during wartime as shelters.

                                                                   Along the provincial road from Loiano to
o-                                                                 Quinzano, on a high plain there is the Parish
                                                                   Church of Scanello dedicated to San Giovan-
                                                                   ni Battista, which conserves a painting attri-
                                                                   buted to Passerotti and two painting from
                                                                   the School of Carracci. Nearby, in Cà di Priami,
r                                                                  you can admire the main mountains of the
                                                                   Idice and Savena Valleys, with the upper-
                                                                   Apennines on one side, and the hills which
        Hills around Loiano - Photo by Provincia di Bologna        frame Bologna on the other.
                                                                                                                      121
The Bolognese Valleys of the Idice, Savena and Setta
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      Near Scanello, there is Villa Loup, which owes                Nature
      its name to the Swiss gentleman who, marrying                 The Gardens of Casoncello
      a member of the Ghisilieri family, received the               Via Scascoli, 75 - Loiano (BO)
      residence as part of the dowry. Pope Pious VII                Tel. 051.928100/928281
      stayed here in 1805, after meeting Napoleon in                Born from the restoration of an ancient far-
      Paris, but it became famous in the Risorgimento               mhouse and open to the public since 1996,
      for the “Convegno di Scanello”. Here on the 28th              the Gardens of Casoncello are today consi-
      September 1859, the representatives of Tuscany,               dered an excellent example of a “natural
      Romagna, Modena and Parma negotiated the                      garden” where the mark of nature and that        An
      abolition of custom duties between their states               of mankind exist in harmony and where the        bo
      and the adoption of a single currency, in antici-             multiplicity of animal and vegetable life are    to
      pation of the Union of Italy.                                 respected and favoured. It has an unusual        m
                                                                    appearance, rich in ornamental plants and        ex
      From the centre of Quinzano, there is a road                  spontaneous flora: in the space of a single      fro
      which, winding through the atmospheric                        hectare there are more than a thousand
      ZenaValley, reaches the archaeological site                   species which, freely associated in “harmo-      In
      of Monte Bibele (page 125).                                   nious disorder”, create an enchanting atmo-      st
                                                                    sphere. The guided visits lead to the disco-     na
      The village of Scascoli is one of the most                    very of this enormous "green book" through       by
      enchanting, due to its position. The Church of                various "vegetable situations": mixed mea-       Ra
      Saints Stefano and Martino was rebuilt after                  dow, vegetable garden, rockery, wet zone,        w
      the Second World War: for the façade, the san-                wood-garden, herb-garden, flowering bor-         th
      dstone blocks from the destroyed Church of                    ders, perennial grass borders, orchard,          up
      San Ansano di Brento were used, while the high                mixed hedges, with an approach that is not
      altar was made by melting down the brass car-                 merely visual, but involves all the other sen-    C
      tridge cases of the American artillery.                       ses. A particular element of the visit is in      T
      Near Scascoli, we find the interesting rural                  fact the olfactory one, in which different        A
      building called the Torre, a typical example of               and unusual smells are offered from flo-          m
      15th-century building by the Maestri comacini                 wers, leaves, bark and even roots. The            R
      (an ancient Guild of Master-builders and                      Gardens of Casoncello can only be visited         t
      Stonemasons) (page 71).                                       by booking with guided visits.                    f
      Continuing along the road which descends                                                                        C
      towards the Savena, we reach the majestic                                                                       t
      Gorges of Scascoli, above the course of the river.            Events                                            m
                                                                    Festa della Batdura (Threshing Festival),         A
                                                                    farming show, exhibition of machines and          f
                                                                    tools for threshing grain: July                   t
                                                                    Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): October            l
                                                                    and November                                      i
                                                                    Market of Santa Lucia: December                   d
                                                                                                                      w
                                                                    Scascoli                                          o
                                                                    Chestnuts Festival: October                       P
                                                                                                                      f
                                                                    MARKET DAY: Sunday                                h
                                                                                                                      e
                      Gardens of Casoncello - Private archive                                                         M
                                                                                                                      s
                                                                                                                      h
                                                                                                                      (

                                                                                                                     Th
                                                                                                                     st
                                                                                                                     so
                                                                                                                     st
                                                                                                                     of
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                                                                                                                     tu

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                                                                 Monghidoro
 -
6,
 -
 l
 t      An ancient pontifical Customs House on the           Museums
e       border with Tuscany, Monghidoro also used            MUSEUM OF APENNINE FARMING
e       to be called Scaricalasino (“Unload-the-             CULTURE
 l      mule”), since it was necessary to check the          Via Provinciale, 13 - Piamaggio 40063
d       exhausted animals’ loads after the climb             Monghidoro (BO) - Tel. 051.6555132 - Fax
e       from Roncastaldo.                                    051-6552268 - turismo@tuttoservizispa.it
d                                                            The museum reconstructs the working and
 -      In the town centre, the cloisters of La Ci-          day-to-day aspects of past rural life of the
 -      sterna are all that remain of the ancient Mo-        Apennines. Alternated with spaces dedica-
 -      nastery of San Michele ad Alpes, built in 1528       ted to ancient jobs (carpentry, the elabora-
h       by converting the Palazzo di Armaciotto dei          tion of wool and straw, wine production),
 -      Ramazzotti, donated to the Olivetani order,          there are some domestic spaces: the kit-
e,      who ran it until 1797. Today the cloisters are       chen, the bedroom, a school room, sta-
 -      the splendid setting for events which liven          bles, and finally, an aristocratic corner.
 ,      up the town in summer.                               There is also a unique 1:3-scale reconstruc-
 t                                                           tion of a perfectly-working water mill.
 -       Culture and Famous Names                            Opening times: in winter, Sunday 3-6pm; in
n        The Ramazzotto                                      summer, Saturday 4-7pm, Sunday 10-12am
 t       Armaciotto dei Ramazzotti, called the Ra-           and 4-7pm.
 -       mazzotto, is a typical figure of the Italian        Free entrance (donations welcome).
e        Renaissance. Born in Scaricalasino in 1444,
d        the Ramazzotto took up arms and built his           MONGHIDORO PARISH MUSEUM
         future battle by battle. Becoming a                 Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta
         Captain, he first served Cesare Borgia,             Via Garibaldi, 37 - 40063 Monghidoro (BO)
         then various Popes among whom Cle-                  Tel. 051.6555539
         mente VII dei Medici, his great protector.          This 19th-century parish church houses a
 ,       As compensation, he received ever-larger            small collection of sacred art: devotional
d        feudal territories in the Apennines and             and liturgical objects and vestments. There
         the title of Count. Ramazzotto became               is also a notable painting by Burrini from
         lord of his own personal state, which               1685, showing Saints Petronio and Dionigi.
         included an impregnable fort, the Rocca             Opening times: Sunday and public holi-
         di Tossignano, in the Santerno Valley,              days; by request on weekdays.
         which he fortified even further. The re-            Free entrance.
         organisation of the lands of Romagna by
         Paolo III Farnese threw the survival of his
         feud into crisis, and after various mishaps,
         he finally surrendered in 1537. He died in
         exile in Tuscany, but in the Church of San
         Michele in Bosco in Bologna, there is the
         splendid marble arch commissioned by
         him to the sculptor Alfonso Lombardi
         (1531-1533).

        The Sentiero dei Pilastrini is a trail which
        starts from the county town and takes in
        some typical villages, following ten small
        stone pillars, some rebuilt, direct evidence
        of the sacred element so pervasive in the        La Cisterna
        mountain peasant culture up to the 19th cen-     Photo by Comune di Monghidoro
        tury.

                                                                                                            123
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      The whole area is also of great natural           the macaroni with ragù washed down with
      worth, in particular the Park, “La Martina”,      too much wine, the great seducer wrote that
      and the Alpe of Monghidoro.                       he was unable to “partake” of the young
                                                        woman, a certain Corticelli, who was ac-
       Nature                                           companying him.
       “La Martina” Provincial Park
       In the upper-Idice Valley, the Park offers       The singer Gianni Morandi maintains very
       the ideal environment for walks in the           close links with his birthplace, Monghidoro.
       woods and open-air picnics. Created by                                                                 Th
       the Province of Bologna in 1972, in an area      Beyond Monghidoro, there is the German                w
       of about 155 hectares, it belongs to the         Cemetery of the Futa, in Tuscan territory,            la
       Monghidoro Town Council. This area was           created by the architect Oesterlen and the            tim
       once covered with meadows and cultiva-           landscape artists Rossow and Bournot. Built           Bi
       ted fields, with the occasional oak wood;        in sandstone, it has more than 30,000 graves          Et
       then in the Twenties, it was reforested          of fallen soldiers from the Gothic Line (page         in
       with conifers such as Black Pine, Wood-          160) in the Second World War. In summer, it           un
       land Pine, Silver Fir and Lawson’s Cypress.      lends its highly evocative setting to the sta-        Fa
       An informative trail gives an insight into       ging of classical Greek tragedies.                    co
       the natural aspects of the Apennines and                                                               lat
       the widespread network of well-signpo-
       sted paths makes the park a useful base                                                                 M
       for longer excursions in the Apennines, in                                                              N
       particular the connection between the                                                                   P
       Futa Pass and the Grande Escursione                                                                     a
       Apennine (G.E.A.). Within the Park, there                                                               B
       is an equipped campsite, a bar and an                                                                   a
       educational hall.                                                                                       i
                                                                                                               r
       The Alpe of Monghidoro is a very intere-                                                                d
       sting natural area extending above the Fu-       Triton’s Park                                          o
       ta state highway SS 65, just after the area of   Photo by Comune di Monghidoro                          t
       Ca’ del Costa, about 2 kms from Monghi-                                                                 T
       doro. Secondary roads and well-sign-po-              Sport and Active Tourism                           M
       sted trails make the Alpe easily accessible.         Tarzaning - Adventure Park                         V
       At an altitude of 800-1200 metres, it is             In the heart of the Bolognese Apennines,           t
       covered with oak and chestnut woods in               Monghidoro is happy to host anyone                 m
       the lower band, beech woods in the higher            wishing to emulate Tartan, thanks to               O
       one, and is full of springs. Jays, buzzards,         Triton’s Park (Newt Park), an acrobatic park       b
       woodpeckers and owls can be seen, as well            in the greenery of Monte Oggioli. At an alti-      S
       as squirrels, dormice and hares. Less easy to        tude of about 1,000 metres, the park has           3
       spot, but not impossible, particularly at            various structures such as ropes, trapezes,        d
       dawn and dusk, there are fallow and roe              net tunnels, fixed and swinging walkways.          a
       deer, wild boar, and foxes. From the highest         There are six routes, three for adults and         b
       point of the Alpe, Monte Oggioli (1290               three for children, of varying levels of diffi-    t
       mts), on a clear day you can admire a view           culty at a maximum height of 7 metres
       that stretches from the foothills of the             above the ground. Triton’s Park also offers a
       Alps in Veneto to the Adriatic.                      picnic area equipped with barbecues and a
       Info: Tuttoservizi s.p.a. - Tel 051.6555132          spectacular little lake with various species
       turismo@tuttoservizispa.it                           of fish and some newts. Open all year.
                                                            Info: Tuttoservizi s.p.a. - Tel 051.6555132
                                                            turismo@tuttoservizispa.it
      Like other places in the valley, Monghidoro
      has also been recalled in the travel diaries of
      more and less well-known characters who               Events
      have passed through. There is the strange             Festival of Saints Pietro e Paolo: June
      story of Giacomo Casanova, who, having                Festival of San Michele: September
      left Florence at eight in the evening, arrived        Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): tra October
      in Scaricalasino in the middle of the night           and November
      and even though he made them prepare “a
      bed which astounded the host, since making            MARKET DAY: Thursday
      it meant using four others”, maybe due to
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th
at
ng
                                                                      Monterenzio
c-

ry
o.
         The territory of Monterenzio stretches bet-
an       ween the green valleys of the Idice and Sil-
ry,      laro, an area that has been inhabited since
he       time immemorial: on the massif of Monte
 lt      Bibele (towards Loiano), the remains of an
es       Etruscan-Celtic village have been found, built
ge       in the 4th century BC. The copious evidence
 it      uncovered, which can be seen at the “Luigi
a-       Fantini” Archaeological Museum, indicates the
         contemporaneous presence of the two popu-
         lations.
          Museums
          Named after the pioneer of Bolognese
          Prehistoric research, the museum was created
          after the discovery in 1978 of the Monte
          Bibele Etruscan-Celtic village. It offers visitors
          a clear picture of the ancient inhabitation and
          its complex of sepulchres, through numerous
          relics, with illustrative panels, photographs,
          drawings, maps, plans, reconstructions of the
          original appearance and how to use some of
          the tools: the vertical frame, hoes and sickles.
          THE “LUIGI FANTINI” ARCHAEOLOGICAL                              Rebuilding of a Celtic mut with original objects
          MUSEUM                                                             Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Vanes Cavazza
          Via del Museo, 2 - 40050 Monterenzio (BO)
 ,        tel. 051.929766 - Fax 051.929766                         History and Culture
e         museomonterenzio@yahoo.it                                The Celts
o         Opening times: in summer (April-Septem-                  Migrating from the north in the 4th century
k         ber), Tuesday-Friday 9am-1pm; Saturday,                  BC, the Celts settled in Gallia Cisalpina, a
-         Sunday and public holidays 9am-1pm and                   region between the Alps and Apennines.
s         3-6pm; in winter (October-March), Satur-                 Among the numerous tribes to come down
 ,        day, Sunday and public holidays 9am-1pm                  into Italy, the Gauls Boi settled in the
 .        and 3-6pm, weekdays subject to prior                     Bolognese area, from which it is said the
d         booking. Tickets: € 3.00; free entrance on               name Bologna derives. After more than
-         the first Sunday of the month.                           2000 years, traces of their presence can still
s                                                                  be found, not only in museums and archa-
a                                                                  eological sites, but also in many aspects of
a                                                                  the local culture, starting with the language.
s                                                                  Contemporary Bolognese dialect, even
                                                                   though largely derived from Latin, still has a
                                                                   consistent Celtic element. Of similarly
                                                                   Celtic origins are practices such as pig-far-
                                                                   ming and the elaboration of pork, so impor-
                                                                   tant to the cooking of the territory. The
                                                                   peaceful co-existence and the ethnic and
                                                                   cultural mixing between Etruscans and
                                                                   Celts, confirmed by the finding of the villa-
r                                                                  ge on Monte Bibele, created a new civilisa-
                                                                   tion in the area, defined as “Etruscan-Celtic”.

                                                               Bronze mirror
                                                               Photo by Provincia di Bologna - Vanes Cavazza
                                                                                                                             125
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      Then it was the turn of the Romans, who                Still in the territory of Monterenzio, in the Sillaro
      created the copper mines of Bisano, active             Valley, 15 kms from the Via Emilia, there is an
      up to modern times. Bisano is today a typical          important spa-centre deep in the countryside.
      village of medieval origins, near which there is
      Casa Cella, a noble house which in the 15th                Spas & wellness
      century belonged to Giacomo di Gottifredo,                 Health Spa and Aqua Park
      and which still conserves the original archi-              Immersed in the calm of a large natural
      tectural characteristics.                                  amphitheatre, the “Villaggio della Salute
                                                                 più” is an oasis of relaxation, sport, cultu-
      The strategic importance of the situation,                 re and wellness. With its thermal systems
      astride the two valleys, led it to be chosen for           and numerous services for treatment and
      a castle in the Middle Ages, belonging to                  physical therapy, the centre, denominated
      Queen Matilde of Canossa, later devastated                 “Terme dell’Agriturismo”, is open all year.
      by Barbarossa’s troops. Even today there is still          It looks over the valley and has spa pools
      a lot of evidence of the period. The most                  which can be both covered and open-air.
      notable can be found in the village of                     The adjoining summer complex of the
      Scaruglio, between Monterenzio vecchia and                 Aqua Park has 14 pools, each with diffe-
      Monterenzio nuova - an imposing 13th-century               rent health and wellness properties.
      building called the “Torre”: it is worth noting            Enriching the offer is Bimbolandia, the
      the original openings, a façade with three off-            first spa park created specifically for chil-
      set portals, a slit and viewing-flap.                      dren, and the Oasis of Zello, where natu-
      Heading down towards the Idice, we come to                 rists can find the ideal environment for
      the village of Villa di Cassano, where there               complete heliotherapy.                                   Il V
      are two tower-houses connected by architra-                Villaggio della Salute Più
      ves and portals decorated with an eight-poin-              Via Sillaro, 6 - 40050 Monterenzio (BO) - Tel.             H
      ted star.                                                  051.929791 www.villaggiodellasalutepiu.it                  L
                                                                                                                            I
       Sport and Active Tourism                                                                                             h
       The Traversata delle Cinque Valli Bolo-                                                                              f
       gnesi (Crossing of the Five Bolognese                                                                                m
       Valleys) winds along the Pliocene Foothills                                                                          s
       (page 60) reaching the most interesting vil-                                                                         h
       lages of the Bolognese mid-Apennines,                                                                                a
       from Rocca di Badolo with its climbing face,                                                                         v
       to Monte Adone with beautiful sandstone                                                                              o
       towers, from Livergnano with its War                                                                                 m
       Museum, to Monte delle Formiche (page                                                                                p
       120). We close the crossing in Monterenzio,                                                                          r
       Celt and Etruscan land. You can do this trek-                                                                        t
       king on foot or cycling in two days.                                                                                 n
       Info: Sistema Turistico Valli Bolognesi                                                                              g
       www.vallibolognesi.it                                                                                                a
                                                                                                                            B
      Crossing of the Five Bolognese Valleys - Monte Adone                  Aqua Park of the Villaggio della Salute Più     S
      Photo by Comunità Montana Cinque Valli Bolognesi                                                  Private archive     A
                                                                                                                            m
                                                                                                                            i
                                                                                                                            t
                                                                                                                            d
                                                                                                                            t

                                                                                                                            E
                                                                                                                            F
                                                                                                                            p
                                                                                                                            C
                                                                                                                            c
                                                                                                                            C
                                                                                                                            p

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ro
an

 l
e
-
s
d
d
 .
s
 .
e
-
 .
e
-
-
r
         Il Villaggio della Salute Più - Private archive

 .        History and Culture                                   nist. In Monghidoro, in perfect working order
          La Via dei Mulini (Water Mill Route)                  and open to visits, there is the Mulino del
          In the Savena and Idice Valleys, water mills          Mazzone from 1785, with its ample portico,
          have for centuries been the reference point           and, on request, the Mulino di Ca’ di
          for the rural econo-                                                          Guglielmo from 1776.
          my. Some mills are                                                            In the territory of San
          still working, others                                                         Benedetto Val di
          have been restored                                                            Sambro, there is the
          and turned into pri-                                                          Molino di Federico,
          vate homes, while                                                             in perfect working
          of others there re-                                                           order and open to
          mains no more than                                                            visits, and two lovely
          place names. The                                                              mills near the Lake of
          river water drove                                                             Castel dell’Alpi.
          the heavy millsto-                                                            These are only a few
          nes, grinding the                                                             examples: many other
          grain, chestnuts and even walnuts, extracting         mills are dotted along the rivers which flow
          an oil used both for food and lighting.               through these valleys. Various initiatives have
          Between Monzuno and Monghidoro, in the                grown up around them, including gastrono-
Più       Savena Valley, a spectacular path leads to the        mical ones, which lead visitors on a journey
 ve       Allocco Mill, perhaps the best known and              of rediscovery.
          most representative of the whole area, built
          in the 19th century on a pre-existing 16th-cen-       Info: Tuttoservizi s.p.a.
          tury structure. Also interesting is the Mulino        Via Matteotti, 1 - 40063 Monghidoro (BO)
          della Valle, where Melchiade Benni alterna-           Tel. 051.6555132 - Fax 051.6552268
          ted his work as a miller with the art of violi-       turismo@tuttoservizispa.it

          Events                                                Bisano
          Flower Fair, general market and sale of               Bisano Festival, market, gastronomic stalls,
          plants and flowers: April                             musical shows: end of July
          Celtic Festival, Festival of Celtic culture and
          customs with dancing and food: September              MARKET DAY: Sunday
          Chestnut Fair, Sale of chestnuts and
          polenta: October

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      Monzuno                                                                                                       Th
                                                                                                                    un
                                                                                                                    an
                                                                                                                    (p
                                                                                                                    an
                                                                                                                    ha
                                                                                                                    se
                                                                                                                    di
      Monzuno is a small centre in the Apennines,              Along this trail, not far from Monzuno, there is     to
      whose name refers to Juno (Mons Junonis) and             Monte Venere, a 996-metre summit softened by         th
      to the sacred aspect of the site since ancient           woods and pastureland, on which it is said there     of
      times. At the end of the 15th century, the terri-        used to be a temple dedicated to the Goddess         se
      tory of Monzuno came into the possession of              of love. The Hospice, about a kilometre from         an
      Giovanni II Bentivoglio, Lord of Bologna.                Monzuno, however, was built around the year          ce
      The present inhabitation is modern, but the              1000 to offer hospitality to pilgrims bound for      gi
      Church of San Giovanni Evangelista, resto-               Rome. In the period around the Second World          of
      red in 1891, has a surprising Baroque interior.          War, Nino Bertocchi, an important Bolognese          tu
                                                               painter and art critic, stayed here. Since then,     tu
      The greatest value of Monzuno is that it overlo-         Monzuno has become the destination of nume-          (p
      oks a stunning valley, rich in natural and histori-      rous other artists, such as Giacomelli and Manzù.    Ca
      cal beauty, enhanced by Trekking Bologna-                                                                     tu
      Florence and by the re-discovery of the Via                  Sport and Active Tourism                         m
      degli Dei (Route of the Gods) (page 131), the
      medieval pilgrims’ route, also called the “Via
      dello Stale” which linked Bologna to Florence.
       History and Culture
       The County of Bentivoglio
       “100 bushels of wheat, 10 pairs of capons,
       10 goats, 10 chickens and an ample collec-                  Trekking from Bologna to Florence                G
       tion of cheeses: this was the annual rent                   Over the centuries, various roads have pas-      M
       for the territory of Monzuno in 1471. At                    sed over the mountain range, among which         a
       that time the village, togheter with                        the Flaminia Minore, the Via Cassìola, the Via   V
       Scascoli and Ripoli, sold or donated its                    Francesca della Sambuca, the Via dello Stale     T
       farm produce to the Lord of Bologna,                        or Via degli Dei and the Via Montanara. In       i
       Giovanni Bentivoglio, in return for the                     any case, at the centre of these routes were     w
       right to permanent settlement on the                        the two great world-famous cities of             i
       land. This agreement exempted the villa-                    Bologna and Florence. Based on historic rou-     I
       ges from other taxes to the city of                         tes, there is the trekking itinerary from        t
       Bologna. Justice was administered by                        Bologna to Florence, well sign-posted and        a
       emissaries appointed by Bentivoglio.”                       divided into 7 sections which can be follo-      f
                                     Renzo Renzi                   wed by bicycle, on foot or on horseback.         F
                                                                   From the ancient roads to new trails betwe-      w
                                                                   en the two ancient cities on opposite sides      b
                                                                   of the Apennines, this is a new proposal for     t
                                                                   tourism which respects the environment,          s
                                                                   allowing genuine contact with nature and an      m
                                                                   understanding of the cultural and gastrono-      n
                                                                   mic aspects of Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany.       i
                                                                   The “Bologna-Florence” trail is illustrated by   g
                                                                   the guide “Voyage in Italy - Trekking in the     o
                                                                   footsteps of De Montaigne and Goethe             S
                                                                   across the Alps (via Spluga) and Apennines       T
                                                                   (Bologna-Florence)” and is accompanied by        b
                                                                   tourist packages.                                t
                                                                   Info and bookings: Tuttoservizi s.p.a.           q
                                                                   Via Matteotti, 1 - 40063 Monghidoro (BO)         t
                                                                   Tel. 051.6555132 - Fax 051.6552268
                                                                   turismo@tuttoservizispa.it
                                    Giovanni II Bentivoglio        www.vallibolognesi.it
                               Photo by Provincia di Bologna
128
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          The most interesting site in the area is            In Brento, there is the Grotta delle Fate (Cave of
          undoubtedly Montorio, the seat of an                the Fairies), a tectonic cave which owes its name
          ancient, vast ecclesiastical district. The Pieve    to legends which tell of treasures and myste-
          (parish) of Montorio, dedicated to San Pietro       rious apparitions of ethereal feminine figures
          and containing notable sacred ornaments,            suspended in the void over the Savena valley-
          had a good 42 parish churches and was               bottom below the mountain summit. An expla-
          second only to that of Monteveglio. A short         nation may lie in the strong currents of air inside
          distance from the town, there is an imposing        the cave, which in certain atmospheric condi-
  is      tower, the Torre di Montorio, dominating            tions led to the expulsion of clouds of vapour.
by        the Setta and Sambro Valleys from the peak
 re       of a rocky crag. The original building, altered         Sport and Active Tourism
 ss       several times, dates back to the 12th century           The “Molino del Pero” Golf Club
 m        and is next to a second building from the 16th          Via Molino del Pero, 323 - 40036 Monzuno (BO)
 ar       century. The tower still has traces of the ori-         Tel. 051.770506 - molino.golf@tin.it
 or       ginal Guelph battlements with the addition              www.molinodelpero.it
 ld       of Ghibelline battlements from the 19th cen-            Created in 1991, it proposes a highly techni-
 se       tury. In the Tower, in the early of the 14th cen-       cal course, extremely enjoyable even for
 n,       tury, the Count Mostarda da Panico lived                the most expert. The ascent to the first
 e-       (page 63). Also near Montorio, there is the             holes, rising steeply from the Savena Valley,
zù.       Castello d’Elle, dating back to the 14th cen-           has often been mentioned in international
          tury, and the 18th-century Oratory of San Ma-           magazines as “The stairway to heaven”.
          molo.                                                   Technical Data: 18 holes, 300 mts a.s.l.

           Gastronomy and Wine
 -         MONTAGNAMICA
h          and THE ROUTE OF THE BREAD
a          Via Casaglia, 4 - 40036 Monzuno (BO)
e          Tel. 051.6773328 - Fax 051.6770144
n          info@montagnamica.it                               Mountain Bread - Photo by Diateca Agricoltura
e          www.montagnamica.it                                della Regione Emilia-Romagna - Fabrizio Dell’Aquila
 f         info@laviadelpane.it
 -         In the Bolognese Apennines, you can find           Remarkable is also borgo Polverara, that
m          the products of the “MontagnAmica bre-             shows two 16th century fortified buldings. Part
d          adbasket”: meat, salami, cheese, forest            of the Monzuno territory, it is included in the
 -         fruit, honey, wine and baking produce.             Regional Historical Park of Monte Sole
 .         Fragrant from the oven and smelling of             (page 64).
 -         wood smoke, the tasty local mountain
 s         bread, with its high quality and its tradi-            Events
 r         tional and cultural value, has become                  Village Festival: April
 ,         symbolic of the typical flavours of these              MontagnaAperta (Open Mountains):
n          mountain lands. This bread is the protago-             country festival based on bread and typical
 -         nist of a tourist-cultural-gastronomical               products from the Bolognese Apennines.
y.         itinerary - The Bread Route of the Bolo-               Various events and entertainment, open-
y          gnese Mountains - covering the territory               air sport, folk music and traditional dan-
e          of the Bolognese Valleys of the Idice,                 cing, June
e          Savena and Setta.                                      Festival of San Luigi: August
 s         The basic idea is to recover and valorise              Festival of Monte Venere: August
y          biological cereal-farming, so common in                Chestnut Festival: October
           the Bolognese Apennine area, through the               Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): October and
           qualification of the entire process, from              November
           the field to the table.
                                                                  MARKET DAY: Wednesday in Vado

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      San Benedetto Val di Sambro                                                                                Ha
                                                                                                                 Sa
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      Taking its name from an ancient Benedictine          In Ripoli, it is worth having a look at the           di
      abbey, San Benedetto Val di Sambro comes             Sanctuary of the Beata Vergine di Serra
      from the fusion of two important communi-            (1616), in a panoramic position at the con-           A
      ties held by the noble families of the de’           fluence of the Brasimone and Setta Valleys.           ac
      Bianchi, the Counts of Piano, and Rossi di                                                                 ni
      San Secondo, feudal lords of Poggio.                 Not far from there is the railway station of          Fo
                                                           San Benedetto Val di Sambro, whose name is            ve
      Nature is the main attraction of the area, from      impressed in the Italian memory for the two           Sa
      the woods of Val Serena and Pian di Balestra         tragic terrorist attacks which took place             N
      to the notable Lake of Castel dell’Alpi, 7 kms       there in 1974 on the Italicus train and ten           of
      from the town. The lake is an ideal spot for a       years later on the Rapido 904 train: in total 27      M
      trip: originating in 1951 from a landslide which     dead and about 150 wounded. In the station,           fa
      blocked the course of the Savena, its banks          there is the monument to the Italicus by the          w
      are today used for fishing, sunbathing and           sculptor Walter Veronesi, and a commemo-              is
      having picnics. It is also possible to visit two     rative plaque in memory of the victims.               on
      ancient mills, each with a grindstone and                                                                  pr
      large barrels to collect the river water coming          History and Culture                               re
      down from Monte Oggioli.                                 The “Direttissima” and the “Great Tunnel          th
                                                               of the Apennines”
       Science and Technique                                   The “Direttissima” can be defined as the first    Fr
       The Monte Galletto Wind-Power Park                      high-speed rail link between Bologna and          16
       In 1998, in the territory of San Benedetto              Florence. Planned at the turn of the 20th cen-    sla
       Val di Sembro, the first wind-power park in             tury, it was at the time a highly advanced        an
       Northern Italy was set up. The turbines of              piece of engineering work. In fact, creating      Bo
       the Monte Galletto Wind-Power Park                      the new line meant excavating the longest
       produce clean energy and contribute signi-              tunnel in Italy, the “Great Tunnel of the
       ficantly to the regional energy require-                Apennines”: 18.5 kilometres in a straight line.
       ments. To discover the secrets of this new              Work started in 1920 and on the 22nd April
       clean energy production system and for                  1934, the first trains ran along the stretch.
       guided visits to the Park, contact the IAT              Bologna and Florence had never been so
       (Tourist Office) of Monghidoro.                         close. The cost in human lives for the con-
                                                               struction of the “Direttissima” was heavy: 97
                                                               workers, of which 65 just for the creation of
      But the territory’s history is also of great arti-       the Great Tunnel.
      stic value.

      We can start in the centre of Pian del
      Voglio, with its pretty, ancient village centre
      and Palazzo Comitale with a 15th-century
      tower, which belonged to the Counts of de’
      Bianchi, and where there are still beautiful
      panelled ceilings and a late-16th-century fire-
      place. In the chapel adjoining the tower, it is
      worth noting the tombstone of the de’
      Bianchi, dated 1526. The building hosted the
      Medici during their exile from Florence and
      was the residence of Cardinal Lambertini,
      later to become Pope Benedict XIV. In Mon-
      teacuto Vallese, the Palazzo di Poggio Su-           Monte Galletto wind-power Park
      vizzano is a majestic 16th-century building          Photo by Comune di San Benedetto Val di Sambro
      with the coat-of-arms of the Counts of de’
      Bianchi on an architrave, dated 1525.

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          Halfway down the left-hand side of the                      Sport and Active Tourism
          Sambro Valley, S. Andrea stands directly op-                The Via degli Dei, (Route of the Gods), a
          posite San Benedetto, which can also be rea-                trail which goes from Bàdolo and Bologna
          ched on foot along a steep path. In the                     to Fiesole and Florence in four sections,
          church, there is a painting, the Visitazione,               crosses the central valleys of the Bolognese
          attributed to Guido Reni. The climb to the                  Apennines as far as the Futa Pass. The route
          peak of Monte Armato is worth the effort,                   passes Monte Adone, Monzuno, Monte
          since there is a wide view over the surroun-                Venere and Madonna dei Fornelli (San
he        ding valleys.                                               Benedetto Val di Sambro). From the names
ra                                                                    of these mounts, the origins of the name of
n-        A crossroads for naturalistic outings and                   the route becomes clear, evoking sacred
s.        access to the Bologna-Florence trans-Apen-                  sites dating back to time immemorial.
          nine passes, the area of Madonna dei                        Evidence of this is an earthenware fragment
 of       Fornelli owes its name to the “fornelli” (sto-              found in the Setta Valley with an inscription
  is      ves) of the charcoal-burners and to the                     dedicated to “Iuppiter Appenninus”, the
wo        Sanctuary dedicated to the Madonna della                    Apennine Jupiter of the Celts of Liguria. The
ce        Neve. Built in 1638 as an ex voto for the end               Via degli Dei partially follows the ancient
en        of the Plague, also described by Alessandro                 Via dello Stale, in use since the Middle ages,
 27       Manzoni in Promessi Sposi, the apse and                     whose name comes from a linguistic tran-
 n,       façade of the Sanctuary were restored bet-                  sformation of “Ospedale”, referring to the
he        ween the 19th and 20th centuries. Inside there              Benedictine Hospice of San Salvatore which
 o-       is a notable portrait of the Madonna in oil                 was built here to offer shelter to travellers.
          on copper. Every year, the icon is carried in a             Along the path it is possible to tread the
          procession to Castel dell’Alpi, where it                    ancient street remains of the Flaminia mili-
          remains for eight days before returning to                  tare, built by Romans in the 2nd century BC.
 l        the Sanctuary on the day of the Ascension.                  The best conserved ones are near the sum-
                                                                      mit of Monte Bastione (1190 mts a.s.l), adjoi-
t         From Madonna dei Fornelli, we reach the                     ning the quarry where the stone was won to
d         16th-century village of Qualto, near which                  pave this arduous piece of route, unpaved in
-         slabs of local sandstone, the remains of an                 the remaining part. The trekking is marked
d         ancient road on Monte Bastione between                      out by the VD trail sign and also by the
g         Bologna and Fiesole came to light.                          famous “dau bal zali” (two yellow balls),
t                                                                     which represent the first trail marker of this
e                                                                     exciting crossing.
 .
 l
 .                                                                Remarkable is also the village named Cà
o                                                                 Musolesi, where there are 15th- and 16th -cen-
-                                                                 tury architectonic elements and a building,
7                                                                 in the past tower-house.
f
                                                                      Events
                                                                      Tartufesta (Truffle Festival): October and
                                                                      November
                                                                      San Benedetto VS. Fair: end of August

                                                                      MARKET DAY: Saturday

                                                         Qualto
                 Photo by Comune di San Benedetto Val di Sambro

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                                                                                                                     H

      Castiglione dei Pepoli                                                                                         S
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      We are now in the territory of Castiglione dei               Culture and Famous Names                          s
      Pepoli, rich in chestnut and fir tree woods.                 Leo Nucci                                         B
      The area, on the limits of the Regional Park of              A world-famous baritone, Leo Nucci was            S
      the Lakes, has the typical mountain beauty,                  born in Castiglione dei Pepoli in 1942 into a     d
      situated among different summits, all slightly               typical Emilian family of the time, in which      b
      over 1,000 metres above sea level.                           everyone sang a little. His father in particu-    h
                                                                   lar sang in a choir and played in the town        p
      The ancient name being “Castiglione dei                      band, which Leo joined at nine years of age.      P
      Gatti”, from the Lombard “gaita” meaning                     Also typical of Emilia is the technique he        b
      mount, the town was part of the vast posses-                 jokingly said had created and maintained his      c
      sions of Queen Matilde of Canossa. It was                    extraordinary breathing: his passion for          t
      the dominion of the Counts of the Alberti                    cycling! In 1977, he made his debut at the        p
      family and then the feud of the Pepoli fami-                 Scala in Milan as Figaro in The Barber of         c
      ly, who held it for over four centuries. In the              Seville, which together with Rigoletto, a         f
      18th century, it even had the right to make                  role he interpreted about 400 times, beca-
      coins.                                                       me his tour-de-force. Since then he has per-
                                                                   formed regularly in the most important           Ca
      Particularly fascinating, and in some ways                   theatres around the world and has recorded       Br
      unique in the Apennines, is the architectural                over thirty complete operas with conduc-         its
      complex of the main square, in particular the                tors such as Herbert von Karajan, Riccardo       th
      imposing form of the 15th-century Palazzo                    Muti and Claudio Abbado. He has also             de
      Comunale (Town Hall). Designed by the                        made two films of opera, including a
      architect Marchesino di Cento, a guest in 1473               Macbeth presented at the Cannes Festival
      of the Pepoli family, the building was the seat              in 1987. Nominated a UNICEF “Goodwill
      of the local government and so included a                    Ambassador” for Italy in July 2000 and an
      jail, commissioner’s residence and the Pepoli                international opera star, Leo Nucci has
      family quarters. Enlarged in the 17th century                maintained strong links with his birthplace,
      with the building of the so-called “Palazzina”,              sometimes performing in the events which
      it still today has the frescoes which have                   enliven this tourist location.
      embellished the interiors over the centuries.

      Art-lovers should not miss the 17th-century              Near Castiglione dei Pepoli, it is worth visi-
      Church of the Madonna della Consolazio-                  ting the ancient 17th-century villages of
      ne, with important works by the Bolognese                Canova with its Oratory dedicated to San
      School, and the Church of San Lorenzo, built             Giusto, Linari with its Oratory built in 1641,
      in about 1576 as the Oratory of the Com-                 and Rasora with its Oratory of 18th-century
      pagnia della Misericordia.                               origins, enlarged in the 19th century with the
                                                               construction of a bell tower and a small sa-
                                                               cristy.                                               S
                                                                                                                     T
                                                               In Monte Baducco, a small village on the              r
                                                               peak of a mount overlooking Castiglione dei           B
                                                               Pepoli, there are splendid views of the val-          T
                                                               leys below.                                           c
                                                                                                                     t
                                                               A few kilometres from Baragazza, there is             S
                                                               one of the most beautiful places of worship           A
                                                               in the Bolognese Apennines: the Sanctuary             p
                                                               of Boccadirio, the destination of incessant           i
                                                               pilgrimages from all over Italy. This 16th-cen-       a
                                                               tury building is in an enchanting position            k
                                           Chestnut wood       amidst green forests, at the confluence of            i
                   Photo by Comune di Castiglione dei Pepoli   two rivers at the foot of Mount Tavianella.
132
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