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The Island Trail
Newsletter of the Maine Island Trail Association | Winter 2021
Member Sarah Cushman beside a
pile of trash staged for MITA staff to
It Takes a
pick up as part of the A Call to Oars
initiative this summer. Village Canoe
By Stu Haddon, Editor
I met up with Chris Battaglia on a day of
September sun and blustery winds. We
sat outside Waterfall Arts in Belfast and
had a rich and varied conversation that
stretched to almost three hours. Chris is
the man behind the Village Canoe and
I was looking for a deeper insight into
this fascinating community arts project.
He certainly has all the characteristics
needed to sustain such a project: huge
Answering “A Call To Oars” enthusiasm, a clear vision, inspirational
communication skills, and practical
experience are all packed into his
By Christina Hassett, Regional Stewardship Manager
youthful frame.
For anyone who has participated in deserve was to put it in the hands
In 2017, Chris was the photographer
a MITA cleanup, the sight of a little of the people. We asked those who
and filmmaker for a 1,155-mile canoeing
red Lund piled high with trash is a use the islands to take part in their
expedition down the lower Mississippi
recognizable one. Since the early 1990s, stewardship. With high hopes but
in two 29-foot, cypress-strip canoes.
MITA’s regional cleanups have long uncertain expectations, we forged ahead
Headed up by John Ruskey, founder
been one of the most effective ways and held our breath to see what came of
of the Quapaw Canoe Company and
to engage volunteers, giving folks an our request. Now, with over 400 visits
called Rivergator, it was described in
opportunity to help care for the places logged, 116 different sites visited, and
Sierra magazine as: “… adventure—and a
they love. This year, in order to keep countless pounds of trash removed from
new sense of self—during a harrowing
MITA’s volunteers and our greater these islands, it’s safe to say that the
paddling trip on the Mississippi River.”
community safe, it was with a heavy people delivered! Over 250 individuals,
Chris was one of only three members of
heart that we decided to cancel our along with their family and friends,
the expedition who paddled the entire
traditional spring and fall cleanups. We visited sites all the way from Kittery to
trip.
brainstormed new ways to maintain the Cobscook, lending their time and effort
high level of island stewardship in these to help clean, clear and take care of these He later developed the vision of the
new circumstances. After email chains special places. Village Canoe: “An immersive, outdoor,
too long to manage and video calls too floating artist residency and traveling
Kirk Coleman, a MITA member who has
numerous to remember, “A Call to Oars” exhibition. Structured as an expedition,
been summering in downeast Maine his
was born. the residency will take place from a
entire life, spent a productive day with
30-foot voyageur canoe, inviting … six
In a return to one of MITA’s earliest his son on Stevens, circumnavigating the
participants to paddle, camp and make
grassroots concepts, we decided that island while collecting and carrying off
art along the Maine coast and/or rivers
the best way to ensure these places three full contractor bags of trash.
in the interior.
continued to receive the care they
Call to Oars continued on page 5 Canoe continued on page 3
Winter Newsletter | 2021 | mita.org 1
A Wild Crossing
By Doug Welch, Executive Director
Imagine you are safest possible environment for social
in a small boat distancing. While the numbrs of visitors
crossing a bay. The to Maine were sadly diminished, we
wind and tides Mainers took to heart the opportunity to
are favorable as explore our great state and heeded the
BOARD OF TRUSTEES you enjoy sunny invitation to enjoy “Staycationland.”
Nick Battista, Camden skies and clear
Stephen Birmingham, South Portland By the end of September MITA
views to your
Dan Carr, Dayton membership had swelled to 8,000—
Janet Dooley, Falmouth destination—a
Nancy Egan, Harpswell
1,000 more than the year before and the
sand-rimmed
Fiona Gordon, Freeport highest annual total in our 33 years of
Alicia Heyburn, Brunswick island in the
existence. The number of new members
Cindy Knowles, Cumberland distance. Halfway there, a fog descends
Rob Nichols, Kittery who are Mainers more than doubled
John O’Meara, Falmouth from nowhere and the wind suddenly
from 2019 and the number who are new
Tim Record, Falmouth shifts. The water grows turbulent and
Jeff Skaggs, Portland families more than tripled. It felt great
your confidence is shaken. Your knuckles
Meghan Stasz, South Portland to be part of the antidote to Covid blues,
Andrew Stern, Cumberland whiten as you do your best to dead
Odette Thurston, Falmouth providing our own neighbors with the
reckon the proper course. Suddenly
Kim True, Freeport salty recreation they craved.
Rex Turner, Augusta your bow hits soft sand and you realize
that somehow you have reached the Other elements of MITA changed in
STA F F beach safely and sooner than you had 2020 as well. Quick thinking by the MITA
Doug Welch • dwelch@mita.org ever expected. This is a pretty good program team replaced our traditional
Executive Director
description of what fiscal year 2020 felt group stewardship activities with “A
Greg Field • gfield@mita.org
like at MITA. Call to Oars”—a pointed invitation for
Director of Finance & Operations
members to undertake island cleanups
Molly Geiger • mgeiger@mita.org The first couple of months of the
Membership Manager on their own and report back to us from
year were smooth sailing, but that all
the islands simply by pointing their cell
Christina Hassett • christina@mita.org changed in mid-March as we found
Regional Stewardship Manager (Downeast) phone at a posted QR code. We received
ourselves in circumstances otherwise
Maria Jenness • mjenness@mita.org 445 such reports, many including photos
unimaginable. Could we survive without
Regional Stewardship Manager (Midcoast) of piles of trash and/or happy faces.
fundraising events and corporate
Brian Marcaurelle • brian@mita.org Many new members actually discovered
Program Director sponsors? Would fundraising appeals
MITA from the islands in this way.
fail and grants dry up? Would boat sales
Madison Moran • madison@mita.org
Communications Manager disappear? Would our members desert Landscape painter Matthew Russ kept
Jack Phillips • jphillips@mita.org us? his plan to paint 20 islands on 20-by-20
Advancement Director canvasses in 2020, donating proceeds
I am proud to report that MITA’s Board
Jordi. St. John • jordi@mita.org from their sale to support MITA. Matt
of Trustees has been keeping a steady
Business Engagement Manager followed an inspiring route from Kittery
outlook throughout this period. While
Chris Wall • cwall@mita.org to Cobscook Bay, delighting the staff and
Regional Stewardship Manager (Southern) we trimmed discretionary expenses,
members who tracked his progress.
more drastic measures were not taken.
Thank you to Stu and Juli Haddon for serving as
We secured a PPP loan, put a revenue After this humbling, exhilarating period,
volunteer editors for this issue.
tracking system in place, and dead I am proud to announce that MITA
The Maine Island Trail is a 375-mile long waterway
extending from the New Hampshire border to the reckoned against it. ended its financial year on budget.
Canadian Maritimes. Along the route, I have nothing but gratitude to the
public and private islands are available to In the face of global uncertainty and
members or the public for overnight stopovers where MITA trustees for their steady hand on
economic turmoil, the remarkable
one can picnic or camp in a wilderness setting. the tiller and the MITA staff for their
surprise was that our membership
The Maine Island Trail Association (MITA) is a deft pivots and can-do spirits. And
nonprofit organization whose goal is to advance a headcount began to rise. By July we
to you—our loyal members and our
model of thoughtful use and volunteer stewardship of were hearing that boat sales nationally
Maine’s wild islands, creating an inspiring recreational new members—for embracing this
water trail that is cared for by the people who use it. were through the roof. It seems that
organization and carrying it forward.
boats and islands took on a whole new
M A I N E I S L A N D T R A I L A S S O C I AT I O N At the end of the day, that’s what keeps
meaning in 2020 as a way to escape
100 Kensington St, 2nd Floor, Portland, ME 04103 the small boat of MITA on course and
(207) 761-8225 • info@mita.org • mita.org months of indoor confinement in the
underway. Thank you.
2 Winter Newsletter | 2021 | mita.org
Canoe continued from cover
At the culmination of the trip, artists
will host an … exhibition of the work Participants raft their canoes together on the Penobscot River. Photo: Chris Battataglia
produced during the residency. The
show will take place outdoors in a
movable bow-roof structure, the same
enclosure in which the canoe will be
built.”
Planning began in 2018, with limited
funding, and the date set for fall 2019.
The call went out for artists. From
thirty-one applicants, ten were chosen,
most of them from Maine, but also
from as far away as the Outer Hebrides.
These included a puppeteer, cartoonist,
embroiderer, art writer, photographer,
sculptor, art teacher, printmaker, and
two painters.
Meanwhile, the logistics and decision-
making associated with a ten-day
trip involving twelve people had to
be facilitated. Chris borrowed two evening for locally-sourced meals and voyageur work songs and writing
hand-built war canoes, thanks to the artist talk. On non-paddling days at a song for the Village Canoe. There
Penobscot Riverkeepers’ Association. Pond and Hog Islands, they swam and were also demonstrations of half-hull
Gear was donated by a number of explored and worked on their art. model carving and wooden canoe
organizations and from members of the paddle-making.
public during a “Gear Raising” event held
in August.
They paddled during the The pandemic put a hold on the next
phase of the project, but it has also
day, through some of the given Chris the chance to recoup,
The group spent their first night
together at Nibezun—80 acres of sacred finest river and seascapes recharge and rethink. He still plans to
and protected Wabanaki land just that Maine has to offer and build the voyageur-style canoe (thanks
to additional funding from Maine
north of Old Town—and the following gathered around campfires Community Foundation and a three-
day moved to Bangor for the launch.
Chris had planned the route to “begin
in the evening for locally- month stint at the Apprenticeshop)
to learn and understand more about sourced meals and artist and to organize residencies on Maine’s
rivers and islands. In the meantime, he
Native canoe routes creating connection talk.
between the interior and coastal has explored more modest goals. He
islands.” described standing outside the Belfast
Four weeks on, the two-day art
Art Market with a sign saying “Artist’s
They had two overnights on the exhibition event was launched with a
Residency – enquire within,” which
Penobscot, at Orrington and at photo retrospective at Waterfall Arts.
resulted in one taker and a half-day
Porcupine Island, before heading out This was followed by a community
residency on the Passagassawakeag
into Penobscot Bay for a camp on Ram parade to Heritage Park, where the
River, in Chris’s own canoe.
Island, and two-night stays on Pond opening of the exhibition of the artists’
Island and Hog Island. Their journey work was held in the free-standing bow Whatever the future holds, I am sure
ended at the WoodenBoat School in structure which Chris refers to as “the that Village Canoe will continue to
Brooklin. greenhouse.” There was a reception develop, driven forward by Chris
at which the artists were introduced, Battaglia’s enthusiasm, skills and vision.
Throughout the trip, the artists absorbed followed (of course) by a party. Further details of the Mississippi expedition
and were inspired by what they saw
On the second day, the group held are available at chrisbattaglia.info, and
and what they did. They paddled during more about Village Canoe (including some
the day, through some of the finest river a panel discussion, prior to a dance
photos of the residency and a video of the art
and seascapes that Maine has to offer performance and a free public workshop exhibition) can be found at villagecanoe.org.
and gathered around campfires in the exploring traditional Québécois/
Winter Newsletter | 2021 | mita.org 3
A Banner Year for First-Time Trail Explorers
By Jack Phillips, Advancement Director
Rob Root had long been planning Jordi St. John. They had been active summer-long drought had diminished
on a grand outdoor adventure once boaters on Casco Bay for several years water flow. Wondering whether an
he graduated from Montana State but had not previously heard of MITA; ocean canoe expedition in Casco Bay
University in the spring of 2020. The the Trail guide opened up so many new might be possible, Andy contacted MITA
options seemed limitless; any activity boating destinations for the couple. Executive Director Doug Welch for a
in any part of the globe. Then Covid-19 Their favorite was Bangs Island, just east “sanity check.” Doug offered guidance
touched down in the USA, students were of Chebeague, which they and other FBC and provided resources on safety
sent home, and borders were closed. members volunteered to steward for the considerations. Andy ultimately opted
season as official Island Adopters. for a guided multi-day kayak trip in
Undaunted, Rob and two high school
Muscongus Bay with Portland Paddle, a
friends from Vermont adjusted their Family Fun
completely new experience for the duo.
ambitions and concentrated on domestic
With few camps operating and out-of-
adventures closer to home. That’s when A Return to Maine
state trips no longer viable, many Maine
the idea of paddling the Maine Island
families turned to local adventures for For John Sims, a return to Maine will
Trail came into focus, despite no ocean
their summer fun. For some, that meant have to wait until next summer, but that
kayaking experience among the trio.
purchasing their first power or sailboat. didn’t stop him from signing up for his
They joined MITA; purchased boats and
Others organized their first overnight first MITA membership to start plotting
gear; sought guidance from friends, a
paddling adventures. Emily Wendell, a adventures. Originally from Oklahoma,
number of online instructional videos
teacher in Deer Isle and seasoned kayak John was steeped in boating and island
and the MITA app; and then set out from
guide, took her 6 and 8 year olds on their exploration at an early age, having
Portsmouth, NH in early June. Three
first island camping expedition to Little served as a Hurricane Island Outward
weeks later, they arrived in Lubec, island
Sheep, a State-owned island close to Bound instructor and captained the
hopping almost the entire way.
Stonington’s shoreline. While there, they schooners Victory Chimes and Reliance
“It was an incredible experience and we helped clean the campsite and filled out in his twenties. Since then, he has
couldn’t have done it without MITA.” an island monitoring report for MITA’s mostly lived in Florida, but now plans to
special DIY stewardship initiative, “A Call spend his summers in Maine aboard his
A Year like No Other
to Oars.” Albin 27 family cruiser, once he reaches
Of course Covid-19 has forced virtually retirement, just around the corner.
Reid Charlston, director of a summer
everyone to make significant lifestyle
camp on Long Lake, is also a seasoned Here’s to many more adventures for
adjustments. Travel plans were
kayaker, having led Trail trips for these and so many other new Trail
abandoned, most indoor activities are
campers for many years. But until 2020, explorers!
no longer safe, and social connections
he had never taken his three young boys
have been curtailed. Desperate for
on an overnight expedition. After some
alternatives, people hit parks and
trails in droves, forcing the closure
introductory training on packing a boat, Not getting our emails?
reading a chart and understanding the
of some especially popular locations. You’re missing out!
tides, the Charlston family set out from
Recreational boating was no exception
Mere Point in Brunswick for a two-night Email is MITA’s primary way of
to the boom. Retailers and boat brokers
trip on Casco Bay. After returning to the communicating and delivering
reported record sales. MITA witnessed important information, including
launch ramp, the boys expressed their
an explosion in memberships, a 23% membership details and app
approval: “So fun! Best trip ever!” One
increase from 2019. passcodes.
trip led to another, a four-nighter out of
Mainers exploring Maine Stonington. Email conserves resources
and allows us to get event
Due to restrictions on out-of-state Andy Hanson also completed his first
invitations, Trail news, volunteer
visitation, much of this increase in overnight trip this summer. He and his opportunities, and other relevant
boating activity was by Mainers. Chris son, a recent Massachusetts Maritime content to as many people as
and Sylvia Cormier joined MITA for the Academy graduate who relocated possible.
first time after participating in a virtual to Greater Portland, were keen on
Sign up for our e-newsletter at
tour of the Maine Island Trail mobile app undertaking a paddling adventure.
mita.org or by emailing a request
for Freedom Boat Club members, guided They first considered a canoe trip on a
to info@mita.org.
by MITA Business Engagement Manager nearby river, their comfort zone, but a
4 Winter Newsletter | 2021 | mita.org
Call to Oars continued from cover our larger cleanups in the past but bike ride from their home in Freeport
has always been eager to help. “A to Winslow Park where they would
Kirk says that he and his family are “all Call to Oars” seemed like the perfect launch their kayaks, and paddle the
too familiar with the flotsam and jetsam opportunity to volunteer. Sarah and five miles to Basket Island. They loved
that ends up on the islands and seeing her husband Rob spent a day during serving as the “eyes and ears” for the
how much it can stack up. Frankly, it their annual anniversary paddle trip island and remarked: “It’s a way for us to
takes away from the experience of cleaning the shoreline of Little Griffin give back to the property owners, to be
visiting those islands. We had the time Island. Sarah’s report read: “The island able to help them maintain their island,
and the means to get it as clean as we was beautiful and didn’t seem blighted especially if they aren’t frequent visitors
could. It was important for us to do our by trash. However, we were able to fill themselves, as a way of thanking them
very small part.” 4 contractor bags circumnavigating the for sharing those places.”
Throughout the summer, MITA staff, island and found 2 big foam chunks,
Rob Nichols, one of MITA’s board
members and countless others were 1 plastic lobster tub, ~20 still-useful
members who submitted an impressive
able to enjoy reading about these lobster buoys, and 1 good trap. We were
nine reports stretching from Fishing
stewardship visits through our online just about to report the coordinates
Island off Kittery Point all the way to
story map (mita.org/call-to-oars) which for pick-up by MITA stewardship staff,
Ram Island in Machias Bay, perhaps
allowed users to share a picture from when Chris Wall appeared out of fog in
says it best: “Incorporating stewardship
their visit and describe what they found his MITA skiff! Had a lovely visit with
brings a deeper understanding to these
while out enjoying the Trail. It was such him while he did a site check and path
places, that these islands are not just
a treat not only to virtually follow along trimming. Thanks for making it possible
there for our pleasure … when you take
with our members as they explored and for kayakers with little cargo space to
part in stewardship, you realize you’re
cleaned these islands, but it was also carry off trash …”
not just a visitor to the island, that
a helpful tool for us to learn what was Mike and Mandi Davis, a couple striving you’re part of the whole system.”
happening on the Trail so that we could to achieve a carbon-neutral lifestyle,
From all of us here at MITA, thank you
better manage our over 200 sites in real served as Island Adopters for Basket
so much for all your hard work and
time. Island in Casco Bay, making six visits
dedication this season. When we called,
Sarah Cushman, a longtime member, to the island over the course of the
you answered!
had never been able to join one of season. Their day always began with a
Volunteers pose with their hauls from Basket Island (left) and
Stevens Island (right).
Winter Newsletter | 2021 | mita.org 5
Island Adopter: Rit Roberts
By Stu Haddon, Editor
I interviewed Rit Roberts in his rubber bands, coffee cups, oil containers two others. Later, he worked with a team
comfortable home in Friendship, looking and things like that.” of volunteers from the Trust to open up
out to Hatchet Cove. I took an immediate the cross-island trail. Thief Island, on
At one time, Rit was visiting eight
liking to this tall, spare man with his the other hand, has always been owned
different islands, including Eagle, Black,
gentle manners, quiet modesty and by the State and so has consistently
Thief, Bar, and four others. Over time,
ready smile. In the spring of this year, benefited from Rit’s ministrations. His
this became too much of a commitment,
Rit retired as an Island Adopter after a commitment to the islands has been
and he scaled back to Eagle, Thief and
remarkable thirty years looking after remarkable. “At one time, I went out
Black. Later, Eagle came off the Trail, and
islands in Muscongus Bay. “This spring, I to Black Island at least once a month
he focused on the remaining two.
landed on an island with my chainsaw. for two years … including all the way
I was … slipping and sliding over Rit obviously has a very high regard through winter.”
seaweed-covered rocks and I suddenly for MITA. “I can’t say enough about
Rit has been a registered Maine Guide
thought ‘this is no place to be, way out the organization, as far as opening the
for twenty years. “I would teach
here, for a 74-year-old’!” islands up for other people. I’d say most
beginner kayak lessons and take people
everybody I’ve come in contact with
As a boy, he would take a tent and out for maybe a day trip, but what I
is from out of state, or from Southern
sleeping bag and paddle out to the thought would be a fun retirement job
Maine or Portland. I enjoy showing them
islands. “We’d go on any island we turned into being a job, instead of fun. I
the islands. On Black Island there’s an
wanted to and nobody said a word, as was constantly worried, you know. Are
old abandoned well. I put a cover on that
long as we didn’t make a mess. We are they drinking enough water? Are they
and kept it clear so you could get to it.
very fortunate here in Friendship that having a good time? This one strayed off
Then there’s an old foundation and, you
we’ve got so many open islands.” here; this one smuggled a beer into his
know, people from the likes of New York
kayak … so I gave that up!”
Rit first heard about MITA in the late City can’t fathom that people used to
1980s, was impressed by its goals and live out there all year round.” The Roberts family’s ties with the area
became an Island Adopter in 1990. By go back a long way. Rit has lived on the
There have been many changes during
then, he had a kayak, as well as a skiff same piece of land in Friendship for
Rit’s tenure, including changes of
with an outboard, and he would go out more than four decades and helped
ownership. Black Island, for example,
to the islands and remove any trash. “In build a house on the same plot for his
has changed hands three times. “The
those days, there was a lot of local use. I parents. His father bought a camp on
first owner let me do what I wanted.
hate to say it, but the fishermen would Friendship Long Island, and Rit still goes
There used to be a box there with a toilet
go out, build a fire, have a lobster feed out there, as do his kids and grandkids.
seat on it, and I’d go out once a year and
and leave their trash behind. There was His lifelong relationship with the
shovel it out.” The next owner favored
more what I would call garbage trash islands has obviously brought him great
a lighter touch, which allowed the
when I first started than I get now. I pleasure and much satisfaction and,
island’s vegetation to encroach trails and
find that kids get more environmental over the years, many, many people have
campsites. A few years ago, Maine Coast
education at school, but I still see a benefited from his outstanding work as
Heritage Trust bought it and Rit helped
tremendous amount of Clorox bottles, an Island Adopter.
restore the Lilac campsite along with
Sold: 1967 Hinckley
H-41 Revel
This spectacular sloop was sold in October, four months
after it’s donation. The owner, a past MITA trustee and
board chair, donated this remarkably generous gift to
support the Trail.
Please consider donatiing your boat to support island
stewardship. To learn more please contact Jordi St. John at
207-841-2551 or jordi@mita.org.
6 Winter Newsletter | 2021 | mita.org
Project 20/20: Epilogue
By Matthew Russ, Landscape Painter
It has been reported in this very the brilliance of the idea; that a long of Advancement Jack Phillips, point-
publication that the idea for Project string of island treasures could be held people for the evolving project. A
20/20 came to me in the bathtub back together and cared for by those, like dedicated subcommittee of MITA friends
in the fall of 2019. I can verify this, with Nana, inclined towards adventure and also joined the conversation.
some qualifications. First, I use a lot stewardship. I saw the value in MITA
One important result of these meetings
of epsom salts when I soak, so I was membership and involvement.
was an online storymap that would help
in a saltwater mood. Second, the idea
Donating paintings to MITA’s annual narrate and illustrate the journey as it
was generations in the making. This
Splash! auction was one way I unfolded. After all, our goal was to share
artistic journey in which I visited 20
contributed. Yet, I had a notion I could do the wonder of the Trail with a wide
islands along the Maine Island Trail was
something more. So when inspiration audience. The importance of this virtual
inspired largely by my family history.
struck in the bathtub, things quickly component grew as our discussions
This is why, the day after completing came into focus. In 2020, why not visit ranged into March and the start of the
the journey in late September of 2020, 20 islands along the Trail and paint a COVID-19 pandemic.
I stood beside the Saint Croix River in 20” x 20” canvas at each site? Sales of
Another breakthrough was our
Calais. I was there to salute the memory paintings could raise funds for MITA,
collaboration with the Portland Art
of my Nana, Madelene Bunker Russ, born and the adventure could shed light on
Gallery. The promotion, display, and
and raised in the area. Her lifelong love MITA’s mission.
sales of paintings were major objectives,
of islands started here, and was passed
I broached my thoughts with MITA and the Gallery excelled in this arena.
on to everyone in my family.
Executive Director Doug Welch, and then They would host a mid-project artist’s
the entire staff. Soon, I was meeting talk and an exhibition of the full series
I was there to salute the regularly with Communications of paintings in October.
Manager Madison Moran and Director
memory of my Nana, First, I had to get out there and paint!
Madelene Bunker Russ,
Matt’s easel faces Crow Island in Muscongus Bay.
born and raised in the area.
Her lifelong love of islands
started here, and was
passed on to everyone in
my family.
Nana’s earliest island adventures were
with her father, my great-grandfather
Willard Hiram Bunker, a merchant sailor
turned doctor. He was a pleasure-boater
before the term existed, island-hopping
aboard Makaru, a cabin-cruiser named
for Nana and her sisters, Katherine and
Ruth.
Later in life, Nana would recreate these
adventures for her own family aboard
Maddy B, another boat named for
her. Cruising with my grandfather in
Penobscot Bay, Nana seemed at home
among the islands, and she instilled in
me a deep love and respect for these
treasures.
When the Maine Island Trail first came
to my attention, I instantly recognized
Winter Newsletter | 2021 | mita.org 7
Consulting MITA’s guidebook, I resolved
to visit two islands from each of MITA’s
ten coastal zones, moving west to east.
This seemed straightforward enough,
but my first outing in April tested me.
It was too early in the season for a boat
mission, but mainland vantage-points
were largely inaccessible due to the
pandemic.
My most valuable tool as a landscape
painter provided the solution to this
and every subsequent outing: flexibility.
Just as painting outdoors requires an
acceptance of ever-changing conditions,
the island visits succeeded when I
was willing to adapt. Thus, I gained Tyler Redmond (left) and Matt Russ (right) stand around a fire on George Head Island
a viewpoint of my first subject, Cape during their trip to the Deer Isle region. Photo: Geoff Nickerson
Island, by threading through a tangle
of alders and stepping onto an open participated, with memorable outings The following day, as I saluted the
marshland. made aboard Maddy B, still in the family. memory of my Nana in Calais, it came
By the time I reached Casco Bay in mid- to me that the Wabanaki people and
All of these adventures are chronicled
May, I knew I would never accomplish my forebears arrived at this same place
in the online storymap, concluding with
the full journey alone. Teamwork, that by traveling in opposite directions
the final painting session in Eastport, a
MITA hallmark, became the driving around the planet. The islands were
late September sojourn along the edge
force of Project 20/20. MITA staffers surely among the first things that each
of Passamaquoddy tribal land. Of course,
and volunteers stepped forward to observed when they arrived.
the Wabanaki tribes were the original
recommend itineraries, offer boat island stewards in what we now call Under MITA stewardship, may these
transport, and arrange introductions to Maine. treasures shine as they once did many
island-owners. Friends and family also generations ago.
Give the gift of the Trail Chart Your Course
Care for wild islands forever by including
this holiday season! MITA in your estate plans.
Contact Jack Phillips (jack@mita.org) to
learn about how joining MITA’s Torngat
Society can benefit you and the Trail.
Visit mita.org/gift
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8 Winter Newsletter | 2021 | mita.org
Islands Great and Small
By Doug Welch, Executive Director
If you believe Wikipedia, an island is smaller stones were the scourge of New with older and older islands that are
“any piece of sub-continental land that England’s early farmers as they worked gradually eroded back into the sea. In
is surrounded by water.” I like to think to clear fields. fact, a string of large seamounts that
that it’s more about the waterline: once were islands continue across the
Maine’s islands are, of course, a broader
that an island is a piece of land whose seafloor toward Ecuador. It’s all about
mix of geographic features than
waterline bends around to catch up the waterline.
Boston Harbor’s, ranging from igneous
with itself somewhere before defining a
outcroppings (picture the pink granite in Just for fun, I wondered if I could
continent. Regardless of the definition, I
Penobscot Bay) to folded metamorphic find one of the oceanic Galapagos
never really questioned what an island
rocks (picture the long, skinny islands islands that might compare in size
is despite working on island-related
of Casco Bay). However, all of these are to a continental island in Maine. The
recreation on the coast of New England
continental islands, not oceanic islands. island I chose, due to its diminutive size,
for nearly 20 years. It was only in the
was Daphne Island. A bland, conical
past year that I discovered the most Last February I had the great fortune to
island, it is less than two square miles
fundamental dichotomy of island types: go on a six-week sabbatical that ended
(1,200 acres) and is 400 feet tall at the
that all islands are either continental right before the pandemic. My first stop
highest point. This treeless place is
or oceanic. It had never occurred to me on this island escapade was Puerto Rico,
most popularly known as the site of
that I only knew about the former and a 3,500 square-mile oceanic island. It
a nearly 50-year study of the beaks of
nothing about the latter. happened to be that I arrived just after
Darwin finches by Peter and Rosemary
a series of modest earthquakes which
Continental islands are quite simply part Grant, who proved Darwin’s theory of
drove home the very essential difference
of a continental shelf. Any island off evolution more thoroughly than Darwin
between this large oceanic island and
the coast of New England is therefore a himself.
those I know from New England. Puerto
continental island. In many cases they
Rico is formed by seismic activity that On the Maine Island Trail, the closest
were formerly part of the mainland.
continues to this day. If you drive across approximation to Daphne is Cross
Many other islands that used to exist
the spine of the island (La Cordillera Island. At 1,237 acres and 180 feet tall,
when sea levels were lower are now just
Central), the sheer escarpments are clear Cross is less than half the apparent
shallow spots on your NOAA chart. It’s
evidence of the seafloor being thrust height of Daphne. But here’s where it
all about the waterline.
up to form this tropical landscape. gets interesting.
There are 34 islands in Boston Harbor The island lies just south of the Puerto
The ocean off Cross Island drops to about
that I had the pleasure to work on in Rico trench (the deepest trench in the
100 feet on the southern side and only
the early 2000s. Unlike our rocky island Atlantic ocean at up to 5.2 miles deep)
largely single-digit depths across the
outcroppings in Maine, most of the which separates the Caribbean and
Narrows to the north. Daphne, on the
Boston Harbor Islands are “drowned North American tectonic plates. Puerto
other hand, is immediately surrounded
drumlins.” A drumlin is a sandy/cobbly Rico does not sit on a continental shelf.
by water about 650 feet deep, which
deposit left by a retreating glacier It sprang up from the floor of the ocean
eventually drops to 11,000 feet! So the
millennia ago. In profile, a drumlin itself.
amazing reality is that a 1,200-acre
resembles an upside down spoon with
The last stop of my trip was the continental island off Maine sits in
a clear high point (sometimes even an
Galapagos. While also oceanic islands, negligible water compared to a 1,200-
eroding cliff face) that trails off in a long
these are completely different from acre oceanic island in the Galapagos.
sandy handle. Boston Harbor’s islands
Puerto Rico. The Galapagos, too, are born Tiny Daphne is actually just the minute
have the geographic distinction of
of the ocean floor, not from tectonic tip of an oceanic mountain ridge that is
existing in shallow waters—thus partly
upheaval, but instead from volcanism. A twice as tall as Mount Katahdin.
“drowned” since the last ice age by the
single, enduring “hotspot” in the earth’s
rising seas. There are actually drumlins So the apparent size of an island is a
crust erupts periodically. Meanwhile,
all over New England. They are telltale function of its waterline and how much
plate tectonics inch the ocean floor
footprints of mile-high glaciers that land lies above and below it. Even a
over it like a conveyor belt. Every so
ebbed and flowed over the northeast large continental island is dwarfed by
often, the hotspot blasts through the
forming the stony landscape under our a tiny oceanic island. It’s all about the
seafloor, creating a new Galapagos
feet. New England’s figurative “city on a waterline.
island. The largest and newest islands
hill” is often literally on a drumlin. They
are the closest to the hotspot, and
and the “glacial erratic” boulders and
the archipelago extends southeast
Winter Newsletter | 2021 | mita.org 9
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