Control Performance of Different Bra Designs and Materials during Physical Activity

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Control Performance of Different Bra Designs and Materials during Physical Activity
E3S Web of Conferences 237, 04026 (2021)                                                            https://doi.org/10.1051/e3sconf/202123704026
ARFEE 2020

      Control Performance of Different Bra Designs and Materials
      during Physical Activity
      Y Sun1, KL Yick1, P L Li1, M Tang1, A Yu1, J Yip1 and S P Ng1
      1   Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong

                     Abstract. Bras give support to the breasts and prevent damage to their different components during daily
                     activities. Previous studies have however merely focused on specific types of bras and/or shoulder straps
                     but failed to provide specific guidelines on bra features and materials that can be used to improve the
                     support different functions of bras. The purpose of this study is to evaluate the breast control performance
                     of various types and designs of bra under the conditions of walking and running. Two younger women and
                     1 older woman (all with a bra size of 36C/80C) have participated in a wear trial to don a total of 12
                     different commercial bras with different design features, and a changeable bra in which 12 different
                     variables are examined, including the materials, strap width and type of underwire. The 3D movement of
                     the breasts in the various bra conditions during walking at a speed of 4 km/h and running at 6 km/h is
                     recorded and then compared with the braless condition by using an 11-camera motion capture system. The
                     percentage of change in the nipple displacement in the vertical direction relative to the clavicle
                     displacement is used to quantify and compare the breast control performance of the bras. A significant
                     difference (p
Control Performance of Different Bra Designs and Materials during Physical Activity
E3S Web of Conferences 237, 04026 (2021)                                                     https://doi.org/10.1051/e3sconf/202123704026
ARFEE 2020

      Two younger females (S1: 26 years old, and S2: 29                 2.2. Bra samples
      years old) and one older female (S3: 62 years old) were
      recruited for participation in the study. They all have a         A total of 13 bras were used for the wear trial, which
      bra size of 36C/80C. They have not undergone any                  included 12 commercial bras with different design
      breast surgery and are not pregnant or breast feeding             features and 1 changeable bra which allows the
      which may cause changes to the properties of the                  replacement of bra components such as the materials,
      breast tissues or affect natural breast motion. The               strap (different widths) and underwire (different types).
      project was approved by the University Human                      As such, 12 different variables were examined, which
      Subjects Ethics Committee. Before taking part in the              provided 12 different bra conditions. The details of the
      wear trial experiment, informed consent was received              bras are listed in Table 1 and shown in Figure 1.
      from all of the subjects.
                                               Table 1. Details of commercial bra samples

                              1                            2                            3                            4

      Bra style

                                                   Cut and sewn
                                                                                Cut and sewn rigid           Moulded foam cup
                      Moulded foam cup             elastic lace and
                                                                                 lace                         No underwire
                      Hard underwire               lining
                                                                                Hard underwire               Elastic cradle
      Design          No cradle                   Hard underwire
                                                                                Elastic cradle               U-back
      features        U-back                      Elastic cradle
                                                                                Straight back                Hook and eye
                      Hook and eye                U-back
                                                                                Hook and eye                  fastener
                       fastener                    Hook and eye
                                                                                 fastener
                                                    fastener
                              5                            6                            7                            8

      Bra style

                                                                                                              Elastic       fabric
                      Cut and sewn foam           Moulded foam cup
                                                                                Moulded foam cup              inserted        with
                       cup                         Soft underwire
                                                                                Hard underwire                moulded        foam
                      Soft underwire              One piece cradle
      Design                                                                    Elastic cradle                padding
                      Elastic cradle               (moulded)
      features                                                                  U-back                       No underwire
                      U-back                      U-back
                                                                                Hook and eye                 Stretch lace cradle
                      Hook and eye                Hook and eye
                                                                                 fastener                     No straps
                       fastener                     fastener
                                                                                                              No closure
                              9                           10                            11                           12

      Bra style

                                                                                Elastic        fabric
                      Seamless knitted            Cut and sewn                                              Cut and sewn
                                                                                 inserted         with
                       fabric                       elastic fabric                                             elastic fabric
                                                                                 moulded         foam
                      No underwire                No underwire                                              Hard underwire
      Design                                                                     padding
                      Seamless     cradle         Elastic cradle                                            Stretch lace cradle
      features                                                                  No underwire
                       (knit)                      U-back                                                    U-back
                                                                                Elastic cradle
                      U-back                      Hook and eye                                              Hook and eye
                                                                                Racer back
                      No closure                   fastener                                                   fastener
                                                                                No closure

                                                                  2
E3S Web of Conferences 237, 04026 (2021)                                                     https://doi.org/10.1051/e3sconf/202123704026
ARFEE 2020

                                                        Strap

                                                  Cup

                                             Wire

                                       Figure 1. Changeable bra sample and different bra conditions

                                                                              A well-designed bra can reduce excessive breast
                                                                          displacement during dynamic movement. In this study,
      2.3. Motion capture experiment
                                                                          the percentage of change in the nipple displacement
      In order to examine breast motion during activity, a                (PND) in the vertical direction relative to the clavicle
      Vicon motion capture system with 8 Vantage cameras                  displacement in comparison to the braless condition is
      and 3 Vero cameras was used to record the dynamic                   used as a criterion of bra performance in controlling
      breast displacement. The subjects underwent 3 walking               breast displacement. The change is calculated by using
      trials at a rate of 4 km/h and 3 running trials at 6 km/h           equation (1). For each bra condition, 20 cycles of stride
      in random order on a treadmill with 0° slope (braless,              were extracted to obtain the average value of the
      and wearing the 12 commercial bras and changeable                   relative peak/valley of the nipple displacement. The
      bra with the 12 bra conditions). Each trial was recorded            Figure 2 shows the relative nipple displacement (RND)
      for 20 seconds with the subject standing, 60 seconds                in the condition of braless and wearing bra condition,
      while she was walking/running and then 20 seconds                   respectively.
      with the subject standing again. Since displacement in
      the vertical direction contributes to most of the 3D                                                PND=              100%
      dynamic movement of the breasts [11], only vertical                                                                      (1)
      displacement is examined in this study. The
      coordinates in the vertical direction (z axis in the Vicon              where An represents the relative nipple
      system) of the markers on the two nipple points and                 displacement (RND) in the braless condition, and Ab is
      clavicle were extracted for further analysis.                       the RND in the bra wearing condition.

      3. Results and discussion

                                                                                                          An

                                                         (a)    Braless condition

                                                                    3
E3S Web of Conferences 237, 04026 (2021)                                                        https://doi.org/10.1051/e3sconf/202123704026
ARFEE 2020

                                                                                                               Ab

                                                        (b) Wearing bra condition

                      Figure 2. Relative nipple displacement (cm) in the condition of braless and wearing bra condition

          The overall RND in the vertical direction obtained               and PND of right breast: 18%) and older subject (PND
      from Commercial Bras 1 to 12 and Changeable Bra                      of left breast: 35.42%, and PND of right breast:
      Conditions 21 to 32 as compared to the braless (nude)                32.47%). However, no significant difference can be
      state during running and walking is presented in                     found between the two younger subjects themselves
      Figures 3(a) and 3(b), respectively. The results indicate            (p>0.01). The control performance of all of the bras
      that the older subject (S3) shows a lower RND and                    when donned by the subjects showed a significant
      higher PND than the younger subjects (S1 and S2) in                  difference (p
E3S Web of Conferences 237, 04026 (2021)                                                  https://doi.org/10.1051/e3sconf/202123704026
ARFEE 2020

          In order to evaluate the influence of the bra features       control the displacement of their breasts in the
      on the control performance of the bra during walking             vertical direction. During walking, the correlation
      and running, 11 measurements were taken for the                  analysis shows that a small cup volume (smaller
      commercial bras (including length of the neckline,               distance across the length of the bra cup), taller
      length across the bra cup, height of the bra cup, length
                                                                       gore, increased elongation of the bra strap & band
      from the top to bottom of the gore, height of the gore,
      length of the wire channel, side seam, bra band, and             and the use of rigid fabric for the bra cup can
      length and width of the shoulder strap) and 6 material           enhance the control of vertical breast
      tests were carried out (including the elongation of the          displacement. However, there are some
      bra band, modulus and thickness of the shoulder strap,           limitations in this study that prevent the
      and thickness of the cup and its modulus in the course           generalization of the results. The sample size is
      and wale directions) for the correlation analysis. No            small and the different bra features of the
      relationship was found between the bra measurements              changeable bra do not shown any significant
      and percentage of control of breast displacement in the          differences during running. In future studies, it is
      running condition. However, a negative relationship              recommended that a larger sample size is used
      was found during walking for the measurement of the
                                                                       which could provide more data to carry out a
      length across the bra cup (left breast: r=-0.380,
      p=0.038, and right breast: r=-0.464, p=0.01) and the             statistical analysis.
      PND. In addition, the height of the gore (left breast: r=-
      0.330, p=0.049, and right breast: r=-0.352, p=0.035)             Acknowledgment
      and elongation of the shoulder strap (left breast: r=-
      0.442, p=0.01, and right breast: r=-0.368, p=0.035)              We acknowledge financial support from ITF grant for
      have a negative relationship with the RND. A smaller             project ITS/276/18.
      distance across the bra cup, taller gore and increased
      elongation of the bra strap could possibly enhance the
      control performance of a bra. The elongation of the bra          Reference
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E3S Web of Conferences 237, 04026 (2021)                             https://doi.org/10.1051/e3sconf/202123704026
ARFEE 2020

      10. Scurr J C, White J L and Hedger W 2011
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