The material of Fashion - the fmm showcase
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The material of Fashion WORDS: 6954
Contents
Executive summary 1/2
Intoduction 3/4
Research 5/6
Production 7/13
Legislation 14
Consumer 15/17
Retail 18
COVID-19 and the industry 19/21
Conclusion 22
Bibliography 23/27
Executive Summary “The fashion supply chain,
in all its discombobulated
This report provides an analysis of the current speed of development when it comes to
sustainable clothing production and demonstrates risks and opportunities in the field as
well as determining whether or not is it beneficial to mass-produce sustainable
glory, is a problem in
materials.
Methods of analysis include research methodology including a mix between quantitative
itself,”
and qualitative research methods, a systematic review of various literature and image
sources, in-depth look at trends that are shaping a shift in the fashion industry and
primary research. Recommendations are:
Orsola de Castro, co-founder of the
Focus on circular economy and retail spaces that challenge and attract consumer
transparency index Fashion
while integrating and showcasing the sustainable fashion initiative. Revolution.
Strive towards legislation that determines a global standard of manufacturing.
Find a way to appeal to both millennial and Gen Z consumers “It is as inefficient as it is
The innovation and sustainability initiatives are promising, however, due to the
devastating global impact of COVID-19, the lack of focus on marketing and opaque. It is designed to
hide rather than proclaim.”
development process, consumer uncertainty, financial struggles and lack of competitive
advantage compared to established market players the industry is not ready to mass-
produce sustainable materials.
1/2
Introduction
The fashion industry is known to be one of the most wasteful industries in the world.
Every year the fashion industry uses 93 billion cubic meters of water – enough to
meet the consumption needs of five million people, while its greenhouse gas
emissions will increase by more than 50% by 2030 (World Bank, 2019).
The millennial consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the environmental and
ethical impacts of garment production and expect more from transparency and
communication regarding the production process (Brown, 2020).
A new wave of fabric innovation is attempting to avoid the faith of their predecessors
as fashion brands are exploring alternatives to today’s standard materials, with key
players focused on more sustainable substitutes that include recently rediscovered
and re-engineered old favourites as well as high-tech materials that deliver on
aesthetics and function (McKinsey, 2020).
With brands now hyper-aware of the impact a lack of sustainable practice could have
and, in turn, their customers starting to vote with their wallets, a number are going to
new lengths to generate sustainable strategies that – while potentially putting their
immediate profits at risk – but could prove an invaluable move for the future.
Despite all the efforts to produce more eco-friendly materials, the manufacturers are
still developing a product that is considered a niche. However is it possible to grow
the manufacturing and production of innovative materials to catch up with the scale
of fast fashion and is it beneficial to mass-produce sustainable materials?
3/4
Research
Mixed-methods research design (quantitative and qualitative) was Techniques of analysis
Univariate analysis – involves one variable only. It is used to describe the sample on
key variables or to answer research questions that involve one variable. This method
Mixed-methods research design (quantitative and qualitative) was includes percentages and measures of a certain tendency. It is beneficial to group data
chosen for this project. The quantitative research method will enable into specific categories based on research questions.
the collection of data that demonstrates the market size, profit,
Multivariable analysis – assesses the relationships among three or more variables
economic change and cost of innovation that will be crucial in simultaneously.
supporting the brand’s innovation strategy. Qualitative research will
provide insight into consumer behaviour and reaction to brands Research question – is it beneficial to mass-produce innovative materials?
innovation. Alternative questions:
The main objective of data analysis is to obtain the results that test the Can the [fashion] industry create an entire infrastructure for government collection
study research questions or hypothesis as accurately as possible. and recycling?
How can manufacturing developments be implemented easier than they are now?
The stages of data analysis:
Data management prior to data entry How can these innovations age gracefully in the digital age?
Initial data analysis to check the suitability of data before entry After developing the initial research question the task is to find out what the literature
The data analysis to test research questions/hypothesis indicates on the first formulation. It is crucial to find recently published literature
(everything published in the last 5 years is considered recent). Major pieces of literature
(books, papers, journal articles) provide a point of view from where to approach in order
to answer the research question. (Tharenou, Cooper and Donohue, 2007)
Major issues facing the industry:
Data sampling is also important in order to select and Challenge for the company (especially fast fashion - trend-chasing
understand the conceptual frameworks that are used in the research areas. business model) - trendy sustainable clothes make no sense,
It is important to sample date that supports the objective and offers an in- however, consumers do not want to look like they are wearing ‘a
debt look explanation of a selected topic. The data collected from useful uniform’ instead of an outfit
literature will be sampled in order to underpin the arguments that involve
the selected strategic issue, brand and its market position and innovation Is localising the supply chain and distribution benefit the industry -
strategy. there is a reason why it was globalized in the first place
Data sampling will be used in the questionnaire for a broad Majority of the production is small/ luxury price point - is it
population – university students to determine what the average consumer appealing to the consumer? (one of the unique points of
(not necessarily interested in fashion) thinks about the new differentiation luxury brands have in the digital age with the
unconventional fabric innovation. Data collection will be used to consumers is craftsmanship so keeping innovation and sustainable
determine average consumer views on supply chain transparency and the materials would be beneficial)
importance of innovation. The questionnaire offers a unique and true
consumer perspective on the expectation for innovation and the Lack of funding to expand/ difficult to implement change in the
importance of materials and what is their priority when making purchase manufacturing process that produces large quantities - a lot of
decisions. suppliers/distributors are set in their ways
On the contrary, the questionnaire cannot provide an in-depth Is trying to implement a new infrastructure that accounts for
universal response to this topic as it is a limited age group with varying products life cycle and implements change in the manufacturing and
purchasing power and knowledge of the issues of the fashion industry distribution on a large scale to produce a more sustainable product
(different income, level of knowledge, different priorities, same age worth it - the majority of consumers lack knowledge on materials
group). (polyester, PVC, recycled cotton are still considered sustainable by
the average consumer) due to the marketing push for these materials
in the last decade - is it worth for companies to implement massive
changes that cost money and risk a stagnant consumer response
6
Production
Innovation is synonymous with change. The fashion industry is
associated with being slow when it comes to innovations such as AI
and automatization, however, even though the clothing
manufacturing process has remained almost intact since the bronze
age, there has been a significant change in what is considered
sustainable.
A decade ago revolutionary materials were considered leather
alternatives that were produced using recycled plastic and now
these alternatives are being criticized for not making enough impact
when promising sustainability and in recent years has been reduced
to a marketing tactic and is often mentioned as the first example of
the term ‘greenwashing‘.
It has also been proved that using recycled plastic, for example,
bottles do not truly help in reducing waste as the original material
was food grade and turning away from its original use is not Bolt Threads 5c‘s framework
beneficial as it requires more energy to transform than it saves by
being reused (Wicker, 2020).
7Life Cycle Assesment
It is difficult to accurately determine the products life cycle as there are so
many variables involved when it comes to the fashion industry. Life Cycle
Management (LCM) makes LCT “operational for businesses through
continuous improvements of product systems” (Remmen et al., 2007, p.
5).
LCM is defined as “an integrated framework of concepts, techniques and
procedures to address environmental, economic, technological and social
aspects of products and organisations to achieve continuous environmental
improvement from a life-cycle perspective” (Mastoris, 2020).
’Despite its relevance to the scientific field, the influence and application
of LCA for business decision-making are still limited (Choi et al., 2008).
This aspect is reflected in a predominance of model and tool development,
and a lack of focus on the use of LCA method in everyday management
practice (Frankl and Rubik, 2000). It could partially be due to the
traditional focus of LCA on environmental impacts and effects only (Reap
et al., 2008), that does not take into consideration the important
relationships and potential trade-offs between the environmental and
economic performance (Norris, 2001, De Benedetto and Klemeš, 2009).
The consequences of not integrating environmental and economic
assessments can be missed opportunities or limited influence of LCA for
LCA
decision-making, especially in the private sector (Shapiro, 2001)’ (Frankl
and Rubik, 2000).
8There is very wide variability of impacts associated with
MMCF sourcing, resulting not only from differences in material
feedstocks, but also the region where the fibre inputs originate, the
land use management practices involved in raw material feedstock
extraction, the location of the supply chain operations and the type
of mill technology being used. This LCA makes it clear that it is
critical to understand not just the type of material used in MMCF
production, but also the source of the material. It can be concluded
that the choice of the MMCF raw material input is a critical one
with overarching effects on life cycle analysis of impacts. There is
no source of MMCF which is unambiguously environmentally
preferable across all impact categories (SCS Global, 2020).
Despite the difficult process of determining products life cycle, the
strides have been made to measure what environmental impact
materials, who‘s design purpose is to be sustainable, has and it is
worth producing. These are examples of life cycle assessments for
the biggest players in sustainable material production:
9Mylo™
Mylo™ is a leather-like material made from mycelium, the underground root structure of
mushrooms.
The textile fibre company Bolt Threads developed Mylo™ in partnership with Ecovative,
who pioneered mycelium fabrication technology to create soft, flexible foams (as a more
sustainable alternative to Styrofoam packaging, for example).
Mycelium is the underground root structure of mushrooms. It grows as tiny threads that
form vast networks under the forest floor. To produce Mylo™, optimal growing
conditions are created for mycelium cells to self-assemble into a supple, sustainable
material that looks and feels remarkably like animal leather (CFDA, 2020).
Benefits of Mylo™ include:
Mylo has a soft, supple, warm feel.
It’s strong and abrasion-resistant.
Mylo is remarkably leather-like, but no animals are used in making it.
Mylo grows in a matter of weeks, compared to animal hides which take years to grow.
Because Bolt Threads carefully controls its environment, they can direct the mycelium’s
growth and control the final material’s properties including thickness, shape, and more.
Compared to synthetic leathers which are made from polyurethane, Mylo feels natural
and has better moisture management properties.
Mylo has the potential to be significantly more sustainable than leather and other leather
substitutes (CFDA, 2020).
10The term leather is reserved for animal hides, and animal hides are made of collagen. Mylo™ How It's Made
is made from 100% mycelium, and there is no collagen in Mylo™.
The process begins with mycelium cells. The cells are grown in beds of corn stalks with additional nutrients to feed
and grow their mycelium. The mycelium is not genetically engineered, wild spores’ require specific growth conditions
Mylo™ is currently still in the R&D phase. A full lifecycle analysis will be conducted prior to to engineer the final material’s properties.
large scale commercial rollout. So far Mylo™ has only been sold as a limited edition bag and
made into a one-off Mylo™ Falabella Prototype One in collaboration with Stella McCartney Growth conditions like temperature and humidity are precisely controlled to encourage the mycelium to grow upward
and self-assemble into an organized mat of interconnected cells. Billions of cells grow and form an interconnected 3D
for the Victoria and Albert Museum. network; their connections give the material strength.
Unlike making leather, the process of making Mylo™ doesn’t involve raising and sacrificing The material is compressed to make a 2-D material as thin or thick as the desired final material. At this point, the
mycelium is no longer growing. It then goes through a natural tanning process and can be dyed.
livestock, or any of the associated greenhouse gases or material wastes. Those impacts are
substantial, according to Bolt Threads livestock use an astonishing 30% of the earth’s entire
The final step is to imprint any desired pattern (CFDA, 2020).
land surface and cattle-rearing generates more global warming greenhouse gases, as measured
in carbon dioxide equivalent than all transportation methods.
Mylo is also a more sustainable option than synthetic leathers, most of which are made from
polyurethane or PVC, This so-called ‘pleather’ is manufactured using numerous toxic
chemicals. While not proven to be dangerous to humans during use, these toxic chemistries
persist in the landfills and groundwater where they end up.
Because Mylo™ is made from organic matter, it is completely biodegradable and non-toxic
(CFDA, 2020).
Bolt Threads, 2020
11Microsilk™
How It's Made
Microsilk™ is a silk-like biosynthetic fibre made by the company Bolt Threads. Microsilk™ is made Tucker Bowe articulated the process perfectly in an article he wrote for Gear Patrol:
through a process of fermenting water, yeast and sugar with spider DNA.
“Making synthetic spider silk involves several simple ingredients and very meticulous science. Sugar,
Bolt Threads began by studying silk proteins spun by spiders to determine what gives them their incredible water, and yeast cells infused with spider DNA are combined and left to ferment in large stainless-
properties - including high tensile strength, elasticity, durability and softness. They then developed steel tanks. The mixture is then centrifuged, purified into a powder and mixed with a solvent. The
technology to replicate that process sustainably at large scale.
resulting liquid silk protein, which looks like glue, is in the same natural state as the liquid protein that
Microsilk™ is currently still in the R&D phase. Once the production processes are finalized, they will actual spiders extrude from their silk glands and then form into the fibre.”
embark on life cycle analysis to determine the environmental impacts of our material, and utilizing the
industry-standard Higg Materials Sustainability Index, will be able to compare the results to dozens of other This liquid silk protein is then extracted through spinnerets and spun into fibres the same way fibres
natural and synthetic materials. So far Microsilk™ fibres have only been used in prototype fashion like acrylic and rayon are made.
products, including a limited-edition collection of knit ties, collaboration with Stella McCartney – a dress
for the Museum of Modern Art, and a limited edition beanie collection made of Microsilk™ blended with No spiders are used at all in the process. Bolt Threads originally studied real spiders’ silk, to
Rambouillet wool.
understand the relationship between the spiders’ DNA and the characteristics of the fibres they make.
Today’s technology allows them to make those proteins without using spiders (Bolt Threads, 2020).
Benefits may include:
Warmer than wool Microsilk® fibres do not contain any GMOs (genetically modified organisms). The production process
does utilize genetically modified yeast. After fermentation is complete, the silk protein is separated
Lightweight from the yeast, and then the remaining yeast cells are destroyed by heat. There are no GMOs present in
the final material. As they point out, this is the same technology that has been used for decades to
Stronger than silk safely produce cheese, along with insulin and many vaccines. The sugar that Bolt Threads use in the
fermentation process comes from genetically modified corn. At this time, all large fermentation
Considered a renewable resource, the main input in the fibre-making process is sugar from plants that are
grown, harvested and replanted (CFDA, 2020).
facilities in the US use sugar from GMO corn because of the abundant supply. It is widely believed
that large-scale fermentation will be possible with non-food crops known as cellulosic feedstock in the
future. Bolt Threads claims commitment to being part of developing the solutions that will enable that
future to be realized. (CFDA, 2020).
12Mango Materials™
Startup Company Mango Materials™ produces a naturally occurring biopolymer in Mangoes are not used directly in the Mango Materials™ process; instead, they utilize
the form of powder or pellets using waste methane from a wastewater treatment plant waste methane gas that is often flared or simply released (vented) to the atmosphere.
or landfill. Once that plastic good is finished with its use, it can be sent to a Mango Materials™ uses waste methane gas that is produced from anaerobic digestion
wastewater treatment plant or landfill to be degraded and turned back into methane. (without oxygen) of waste at wastewater treatment plants or waste methane gas that is
produced from waste decomposition at landfills, agricultural facilities, or other
At their pilot facility located at a wastewater treatment plant in Redwood City, industries.
California, Mango Materials™ uses waste methane to feed bacteria that can produce
fully biodegradable bio-polyester fibres. When the bacteria consume methane, they Compared to many other producers of PHB, Mango Materials™ uses a waste
produce PHAs, a kind of plastic that can then be spun into thread. feedstock (waste methane gas) and does not use genetically modified feedstock or
organisms. Mango Materials uses a novel, environmentally friendly manufacturing
“When it wafts from landfills or dairy farms, waste methane–a greenhouse gas 30 process which results in PHB that is significantly more affordable than PHB produced
times more potent than CO2–is usually seen as a problem. A startup called Mango by competitors. Additionally, Mango Materials™ can produce other types of PHB
Materials sees it as a something that can be used to make your next T-shirt or carpet related products other than pure PHB.
for your house–and then recycled in a closed-loop.” (Fast Company, 2020)
Our naturally occurring biopolymer is biodegradable in both industrial and natural
Mango Materials™ currently produces PHB (poly-hydroxybutyrate) which is a environments (Mango Materials, 2020).
biopolymer that has properties similar to polypropylene. PHB can be made into a
variety of products, including electronic casings, children’s toys, shampoo bottles, and The rate of degradation depends on the environment and the thickness of the material.
packaging, just to name a few (CFDA, 2020). The Mango Materials™ product can break down in aerobic and anaerobic conditions
and is expected to pass all relevant ASTM and other bio-related certification tests
The San Francisco Bay Area company is comprised of a first-class team of engineers, (CFDA, 2020).
scientists, entrepreneurs and innovators. Mango Materials™ was incorporated in 2010
and received its first round of funding in late 2011. (CFDA, 2020).
13Legislation
The biggest obstacle when it comes to implementing tangible change is a lack of legislation to
regulate industry practices. As of now, a majority of sustainable efforts are more marketing then
solution-driven and are often called ’greenwashing’. A great example of how legislation can bring
positive change is in the auto industry. After the severely negative impact towards the
environment of this industry was universally recognized, strict standardization was introduced and
the improvements are immense. The sustainable products policy will support circular design
based on a common set of methods and principles, said the EU. Waste will be prevented by
reducing and reusing materials with companies being encouraged to offer reusable, durable and
repairable products. New business models based on renting and sharing goods and services may
also help to reduce waste “as long they’re truly sustainable and affordable” (Zha, 2019).
While enacting sustainable practices can initially require additional investment and capital
expenditure, there is plenty of evidence that the long term benefits more than makeup for it –
particularly given the modern awareness and preference for sustainable brands among consumers.
One of the smartest sustainability investments a business can make is in its customers.
‘Necessarily, sustainability legislation must constrain certain operations of the business, whether
by setting limits on the amount of carbon produced by industry, or through labour legislation
intended to reduce inequality, or through any number of other legislative efforts to promote
development goals. However, this does not mean that business is disadvantaged through their
existence – indeed, it is entirely possible for forward-thinking organisations to gain a competitive
edge through the sincere application of their sustainability measures, above and beyond that of
governments’ (Get Smarter, 2020).
In addition to updating regulation, some governments are playing a direct role in
encouraging and funding research. The EU is set to offer €21 million ($23.5 million) of funding to
support sustainable bio-based textiles and circular business models. The US Department of
Defence-backed Fibres and Textiles Manufacturing Innovation Institute is researching new
technologies to impregnate fibres and yarns with integrated circuits, LEDs, solar cells and other
capabilities (European Environment Agency, 2020). Clear regulations would allow the fashion
industry to reduce waste and push consumers to adapt to more eco-conscious decision making.
14Consumer
Another difficulty is the conflicting consumer mindset. The
conducted research focused on students ages 18-21 their view on
sustainable clothing and what affects their purchasing decisions.
Sixty per cent of participants have expressed interest in sustainable
clothing and practises [Figure 1], however only twenty per cent
were interested in paying more for innovative or desired materials
[Figure 2].
This paradox represents a conflicting consumer mindset as they
crave a sense of community and expect companies to represent
their values yet simultaneously strive towards personalization and
lack willingness to change their habits or spend more than they
want. ‘Janssen and Vanhamme (2015) suggest that consumer
knowledge of CSR initiatives contributes to ethical purchases;
however, there is evidence which suggests that stakeholders, such
as consumers, are largely unaware of CSR issues; low consumer
awareness would have a negative influence for companies to reap
the benefits of their CSR efforts (Sen et al., 2006).
Connell (2010) shows that a lack of knowledge about
environmentally preferable apparel is one of the barriers for eco-
conscious apparel consumption.‘ (Yu, Cao and Tan, 2019).
Figures 1&2. Primary research 15Despite these developments in the manufacturing process, majority of
the start-ups and companies, who create and manufacture innovative
materials, due to the lack of funding, produce extremely limited
quantities that the average consumer is unable to access. Companies
developing raw materials out of hemp, fruit or nettle, for example, are
Fabric is an incredibly important part of the fashion industry. Over the not being funded as eagerly as consumer-facing start-ups, a report by
years, the way clothing was produced and distributed changed Fashion for Good and Boston Consulting Group has found. Innovations
drastically, however, the materials used have remained virtually the same behind the scenes—at the manufacturing and processing end—are
(e.g. cotton, leather, silk). missing between $20 billion and $30 billion in financing every year,
hampering their ability to make a lasting impact. At the moment, there
Due to environmental impact, regulation in areas such as e-textiles and are no structures to ensure investments don’t leave out certain types of
accelerating investment in research and development and increasing
consumer awareness (The millennial consumers are becoming necessary innovation. For instance, while demand for reused products is
increasingly aware of the environmental and ethical impacts of garment growing and start-ups enabling them are scaling, the question of how a
production and expect more from transparency and communication resold product’s life ends hasn’t been addressed. The industry is faced by
regarding the production process) alternatives have been introduced yet a challenge of how to capitalize on consumer want for sustainable
they did not age gracefully as a lot of leather alternatives contain plastic
and organic cotton is still unsustainable (Flora, 2020). garments and produce them to be accessible but also profitable (Brown,
2020).
A new wave of fabric innovation is attempting to avoid the faith of their
predecessors as fashion brands are exploring alternatives to today’s There is also a question of whether it is worth trying to implement a new
standard materials, with key players focused on more sustainable infrastructure that accounts for products life cycle and implements
substitutes that include recently rediscovered and re-engineered old change in the manufacturing and distribution on a large scale to produce
favourites as well as high-tech materials that deliver on aesthetics and
function. a more sustainable product as while demand for reused products is
growing and startups enabling them are scaling, the question of how a
resold product’s life ends hasn’t been addressed. The industry needs
entire infrastructure for garment collection, recycling, and recycled fibre
spinning systems, write BCG and Fashion for Good. That is where
second-hand retailers and rental services have a competitive advantage.
16‘Consumers who expect companies to conduct more socially responsible practices have not behaved accordingly in their
purchase decisions (Belk et al., 2005; Bray et al., 2011). Belk et al. (2005) and Bray et al. (2011) show that CSR is not “at the top of
many consumers’ lists”. The gap between consumers’ interest in CSR and the limited role of CSR in their purchase behaviour is
revealed by Öberseder et al. (2011) and termed as the CSR-consumption paradox ( Janssen and Vanhamme, 2015). They argue that
the complex process for consumers to evaluate CSR initiatives plays an important role in consumption decisions. Literature views the
CSR-consumption paradox as an “attitude-behaviour” or “intention-behaviour” gap (Carrington et al., 2014; Schlaile et al., 2016).‘
(Eckhardt, Belk and Devinney, 2010).
Millennial consumers who have the purchasing power to pay premium prices for their desired products and often have a
desire to live more ethical lifestyle are seemingly the perfect target for companies who‘s purpose is sustainable clothing production,
however, they are not willing to make fundamental adjustments or changes to their lifestyle as their value for comfort triumphs any
ideology they might believe in.
On the contrary, Generation Z is more willing to step out of their comfort zone for something they stand behind yet they lack
the purchasing power of millennial consumers. The industry needs to find a way to target both of these consumer groups
simultaneously to achieve maximum profits and make businesses realize that sustainability is not just a shiny marketing tool. An
interesting example of this is the food industry‘s way to cater to consumers who are against animal cruelty. This industry managed to
combat people concerned with animal cruelty (millennials) by offering ‘free-range‘ products (even though animals still have to give
their lives away to produce these items) and offering more vegan options (Gen Z) to consumers, who are committed to making a
permanent lifestyle change. By targeting both of these consumer groups not only did the industry maximize its profit it also secured a
better public perception of the food industry and its practices. Of course, food, unlike fashion, is a necessity, in turn, making it
incredibly difficult to appeal to consumers with conflicting ideals and varying disposable income. Until sustainable material
developers can sway consumers to change their lifestyle or find a way to produce sustainable clothing at a lower price they will be
playing a catch up to fast fashion or second-hand retailers.
17Retail
The way around this is to focus on a circular retail model as a way New retail systems are emerging and transforming the waste sector
to attract consumers, address the end products life cycle and gain into consumer-facing currency and the potential future new
competitive advantage. ‘Fashion companies that effectively deploy economy (Bishop, 2019).
the right technologies will be able to enhance their competitive This a natural progression as more and more consumers shop on
advantage by personalising products and shopping experiences, and second-hand retail sites or use clothing rental services. Recognising
refining logistical processes that nibble away at budgets.‘ the two-way exchange created by secondary waste retail, other
(Chitrakorn, 2018). retail schemes are turning discarded materials into a new form of
currency (Newman, 2019). Brands have the opportunity to create a
Stores that have an outdated value proposition continuously retail landscape that corresponds with the circular economy model
and appeals to conscious millennial consumers.
produce declining sales. This phenomenon allowed for new multi-
brand retail formats, that bridge the gap between digital-first
products and physical spaces, to emerge (Hawkins, 2018).
This shift in modern retail landscape reveals the potential to
reinvigorate the in-store experience that provides consumers with a
sense of discovery and constant newness that attracts them to
online shopping and manifest that into physical retail while
reconnecting them with the advantages of brick-and-mortar spaces,
such as the tactility of products, service and a sense of community.
(BOF, 2019). The future of retail demands synergy between the
physical store and an e-commerce platform.
18COVID- 19
Their major shifts in the ways the industry is conducting itself as is evident by Fashion
stakeholders and sourcing executives indicate that sourcing volume will likely shift from
China to other Asian countries over the next year. At the same time, the need for agility and
risk reduction is boosting nearshoring and regional supply-chain development. Some 60 per
cent of the broader group of fashion stakeholders expect at-scale and highly capable apparel-
manufacturing clusters to emerge more quickly in nearshore markets, for example, in Eastern
Another major issue is the Coronavirus that is one of the most devastating tragedies in modern Europe and Central America (Berg, Haug, Hendrich and Marcus, 2020).
history. This global pandemic continues to have a major global impact in numerous ways.
The industry is facing more incredible challenges, however, there is also a room for new
The impact on the global economy is unprecedented and it is still hard to determine what opportunities such as taking the industry towards implementing circular economy model,
long-term impact COVID-19 will have on various industries, one of them being fashion. digitalization and more transparent supply chain as according to industry insiders at
Numerous factories are suffering due to orders being cancelled, closing to ensure the safety of McKensey, Digital is not only an increasingly important sales channel; it can also help
their workers or being unable to keep up with demand. ‘Some brands are moving their companies adopt cost structures and make each step of the value chain better, faster, and
manufacturing out of China. cheaper. For example, digitization can enable new logistics and sales-fulfilment options (such
as click-and-collect and drive-through), fuel innovative ways of customer acquisition, and help
This was a trend before the pandemic, due to rising costs and a simmering trade war with the predict and manage inventory to create a more resilient supply chain.
US. In the McKinsey survey, around 60 per cent of respondents said they expected
manufacturing clusters to develop more quickly in markets like Eastern Europe and Central Digitizing the value chain, and keeping many of the recent innovations as common practice
America that are closer to customers in the US and Western Europe‘(Kent, 2020). after the crisis. During the crisis, companies have been forced to scale up innovation along the
entire fashion value chain, including design (3-D design, artificial-intelligence planning),
merchandising and planning (virtual sampling, video signoffs), B2B sell-in (digital sell-in,
virtual showrooms), sourcing and supply chain (nearshoring, vendor integration), and
consumer engagement (virtual shows, social selling) (Stott, 2020). Two-thirds of the broader
group of fashion stakeholders believe that the wide adaptation of intelligent sourcing will
accelerate over the next year and almost 40 per cent of sourcing executives plan to hardwire
predictive analytics for capacity and production planning into their processes (Berg, Haug,
Hendrich and Marcus, 2020). The fundamental enabler to all this will be data—the
transparency, governance, and accuracy of which have never been more important (Gonzalo,
Harreis, Sanchez Altable and Villepelet, 2020).
19Forging stronger supplier partnerships to drive innovation and secure
supply. The industry will see a move away from purely transactional
relationships. Almost three-quarters of sourcing stakeholders and Sourcing
Journal subscribers expect to forge closer relationships with suppliers,
partnering on issues like end-to-end process improvement, finding new
investment models, and making industry-wide progress toward social and
environmental sustainability (Geoghegan, 2020).
This is an expensive and time-consuming project as a company has to find
local suppliers that cater to brands needs, completely change the scend
formulation and packaging to achieve sustainability promise. Jonsson and
Tolstoy (2014) suggest that global sourcing is normally used in the context
of strategic coordination and integration of buying activities on a global
scale, while international purchasing refers to specific transactional
exchanges, which within the contexts may be made within the wider remit
of global sourcing.
Finding new suppliers is the key milestone as relationships between
members of a supply network can develop over time to the point where businesses
become strategic partners, where dependence is a two- or- multiple ways and the
companies involved are benefiting from a significant synergistic effect (Batliwalla,
2019). As the circular economy becomes more prevalent in the retail sector, brands
will need to think about the second life of their products, and how these could be used
to generate new internal revenue streams or value exchanges for consumers
20· Interest in circular retail options is high
Despite the opportunity to innovate businesses will likely focus on rebuilding as quickly
More than 66% of consumers would consider any secondhand option – buying or selling as possible and relying on traditional retail strategies and suppliers that they trust to gain profit as
quickly as possible. Typically, digital and analytics priorities can be categorized according to their
40% of consumers would consider renting any item place in the value chain: customer experience (front), distribution and supply chain (middle), and
product development and support functions (back) (Gonzalo, Harreis, Sanchez Altable and Villepelet,
38% of consumers have already made a secondhand purchase in the last 12 months (Mintel, 2020) 2020). A study published earlier this month by the National Retail Federation (NRF) and the IBM
Circular retail options attract young shoppers Institute highlighted consumers' greater focus on value when it came to fashion, compared with other
industries. When shopping for food and beverages, 44% of respondents said they were mainly
More than 80% of men and women aged 18-34 would consider buying secondhand purpose-driven, seeking products and brands that aligned with their lifestyle or came with health and
wellness benefits. However, in the apparel and footwear category, more respondents said their
60% of men and 57% of women aged 18-34 would consider renting (Mintel, 2020) pursuits were value-driven (46%), compared with 35% who identified as purpose-driven consumers.
Cleanliness is a top concern for renting and resale The focus on customer service will be prioritized as companies will strive to re-establish themselves
as big market players and to do so they have to attract a large consumer base and keep growing it.
58% of consumers are concerned about the cleanliness of preowned items
55% are concerned about cleanliness when it comes to rental options Like other retailers, rental services and resellers, such as Rent the Runway and Poshmark
COVID-19 is causing some to alter behaviour and have more concerns over sanitation (Mintel,2020) have released information to customers about their sanitation practices and shared what they’re doing to
take precaution (Piras and Stott, 2020). But unlike other retailers, they’ll face more challenges
74% of women aged 18-34 said they were washing their hands more often as of March 12th, compared to 57% as of the week ending March 6th convincing consumers to shop them when things get back to normal unless they implement sharing point
of origin information about the products they’re selling. Another option they should consider is allowing
50% were using hand sanitizer more often as of March 12th customers to choose who they want to share with; for example, creating groups that allow a select
number of consumers to swap items within a certain time frame. The aforementioned health concerns
38% of men and 31% of women aged 18-34 were trying to avoid crowded places (Mintel, 2020). may result in increased use of apps like DePop, where consumers create their marketplaces to shop and
sell items secondhand, communicating directly with other users (WWD, 2020). Even if they’re buying a
preowned item, shoppers may be more inclined to use an option where they have more information on
the seller versus shopping a larger consignment service, such as The RealReal. In a time when consumers
are looking to maintain some type of control, the unknown aspect of shopping circularly may prove too
big of a risk that’s not always worth the reward (Mintel, 2020).
21Conclusion
As the circular economy business model and innovative retail strategies continue to
rise the industry is taking a step towards a brighter future, However, the impact of
COVID-19 could potentially sput the focus on innovation on hold to focus on
financial recovery.
Despite promising innovation and big improvements in the manufacturing process the
industry still has a long way to go to truly improve. The lack of solid regulations and
legislation that sets a universal standard and the inability to compete with established
second-hand retailers or fast fashion giants when it comes to price point and ability to
offer trendy/personalized clothing, eco-conscious companies lack competitive
advantage besides ethical manufacturing.
As the majority of the consumers remain undecided and refuse to hold themselves to
the same moral and ethical standards as businesses, the decision to push towards
sustainability still seems like a risk that would not necessarily pay off.
As of now there simply too many obstacles and lack of structure and funding that
would allow to successfully mass-produce sustainable materials, However, the
industry is making strides and constantly growing to hopefully produce only
sustainably sourced and manufactured products.
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