January 2021 by Olivier Dupon - AWS
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Notes on an Obsession • January 2021 • by Olivier Dupon
Notes on an Obsession
In this January issue, I have curated for you an eclectic
selection to enter 2021 with gusto and style. A much
anticipated high jewellery launch, the comeback of
FAWAZ GRUOSI with 400 plus creations and the opening
of a sumptuous boutique on Berkeley Square in London;
a limited edition, triple distilled, 29-year-old single malt
whiskey, The Devil’s Keep, courtesy of the CRAFT IRISH
WHISKEY & Co.; the introduction by DOLCE & GABBANA
of a multi-dimensional family, each member of which is
bedecked in flamboyant high jewels; the new bespoke
furniture and accessory collection by Roman designer
ACHILLE SALVAGNI; and lastly, an abstract profusion of
colours, an ode to the floral world, a high jewellery capsule
collection by CHAUMET. Happy New Year!
Olivier Dupon
January 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Fawaz Gruosi Boutique Berkeley
Square, London, interiors
designed by Francis Sultana.
Ring in 18K rose gold set with
one emerald-cut rubellite,
brilliant-cut white diamonds
and pink opal. POA.
Fawaz Gruosi is a man of many lives. Early palette is peppered with brown wood lines
2019, his departure after 25 years from the and occasional gold touches. Lie de vin
company that he founded and successfully seaters delineate the salon area. It is a long
propelled into the realm of top high jewellery space which has been cleverly broken down
brands, left many in disbelief. What would into special zones and without the need
be the next project of a man, who is quoted of physical walls. One can really see how
as saying that there is not much else that he this calm environment suits well the many
could do (i.e. jewellery designing, and having colourful creations; acting as the perfect
been in the business since he was 17)? Fast backdrop for the jewels to shine.
forward to late 2020, and the answer has been It is clear that what has made Gruosi’s
embedded in the quote all along: FAWAZ creations so distinctive throughout his career,
GRUOSI, the brand, has been launched, replete is a highly specific aesthetic; and so FAWAZ
with the opening of a flagship boutique on GRUOSI is where one can again find daring
the prestigious Berkeley Square in London. colour combinations, play on convex shapes
As far as comebacks go, this is one for the (curves, domes, ellipses) and featuring of
books. Francis Sultana was entrusted with hard stones alongside favourite precious
the designing of the shop. A warm cream stones, such as rubies and emeralds.
www.fawazgruosi.com
January 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Known for having launched his game-changing Black
Diamonds collection in 1996, Gruosi has now set his Ring in 18K rose gold
set with brilliant-cut
heart and mind on repeating the same feat, this time fuchsia sapphires,
with amber. A spectacular bangle made of amber and cabochon-cut onyxes
gold with one single marquise-cut diamond set in the and cabochon-cut
centre is again proof of the virtuosic skills of the Italian amber. POA.
lapidary atelier. The seamlessness with which the single
block of amber is curved, is also apparent in pieces with
half-moon onyx slices, or turquoise and opal curls. The
unapologetic voluptuousness and maximalism is key to
creating enough drama. Green jade oozes out from a bril-
liant-cut amethyst pavé; fossilised mammoth ivory, pink
opal and amber make the solid end of oblong-shaped Earrings in 18K
renditions where the rest is mini cabochon-paved; em- white gold set
erald briolettes animate blue sapphires; majestic emer- with brilliant-
cut white
alds (Colombian or Zambian) embrace brilliant-cut ru- diamonds,
bies…And when the latter two cardinal gems are set on brilliant-cut
their own, heart-stoppers ensue. One is the one-of-a- emeralds and
kind double row cuff set with a mobile cascade of un- half-moon
onyxes. POA.
heated marquise-cut and brilliant-cut rubies; the other
is the triple strand of Zambian emerald beads that have
taken years of collecting (special mention for the oh-so-
elegant infinity loop-style fastening). I will close this re-
view with another unique pièce-de-resistance; an all-in-
one colour-block marvel: the torque bangle with two Sri
Lankan oval-cut blue sapphires on each end, baguette-
cut emerald on their base, and a full pavé of pink sap-
phires (with further sapphires set inside the prongs of
the decorative main gem setting) on the body. With a
Bangle in 18K rose gold
boutique and 400 or so creations, the FAWAZ GRUOSI and amber set with
brand projects a sense that it has always been there, if one marquise-cut white
not in the mind and heart of its founder. diamond. POA.
www.fawazgruosi.com
January 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Necklace in 18K white gold and
rose gold set with brilliant-cut
white diamonds, brilliant-cut
rubies and Zambian emerald
beads. POA. Torque Bangle in 18K white gold
and rose gold set with oval-cut Sri
Lanka blue sapphires, baguette-
cut Zambian emeralds, oval-cut
pink sapphires, brilliant-cut pink
sapphires and brilliant-cut blue
sapphires. POA.
Bracelet in 18K rose gold set
with marquise-cut rubies
and brilliant-cut rubies.
POA.
www.fawazgruosi.com
January 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Late last year, the CRAFT IRISH WHISKEY Co. launched The Devil’s Keep single malt
tripled distilled Irish Whiskey;
a limited “333 bottles of very rare triple distilled, limited numbered edition of 333.
29-year-old single malt whiskey, The Devil’s Keep”, Euro 10,000.
and hereby simultaneously broke a world record
for the most expensive inaugural whiskey release
ever at auction at USD $60,000 (almost £46,000
and €51,000 Euros). In the process, no expense was
spared in sourcing the finest ingredients so as to
achieve maturation of unparalleled breadth and depth
of flavour: the freshest Irish water (“adding water in at
the start allows the water and whiskey to marry over
time creating a far smoother whiskey”) combined with
the finest barley aged in 200 litre ‘first fill’ American
oak casks previously storing bourbon, then finished
in rare 100-litre French Oak barrels that held Tawny
Port, before a final finish in virgin Hungarian oak to
“caramelise the wood’s sugars and impart rich vanilla,
wild honey and toasted maple syrup notes”. The
resulting cask strength emerges as a perfect 48.5%
ABV.
At 10,000 Euro a bottle, the Devil’s Keep is an
investment and a sound one. CIWC’s sister company,
WHISKEY & WEALTH CLUB, has seen a significant
uptick in interest from investors hedging risk by
seeking stable alternative investments outside of the
traditional financial markets. “The company offers
private individuals access to the rarefied world of
wholesale premium cask whiskey ownership”. Rare
whiskey was deemed the best performing collectable
in Knight Frank’s Wealth Report, with the value having
increased in the last decade by 564%.
www.craftirishwhiskey.com
January 2021 Notes on an Obsession
The Devil’s Keep
full experience
encapsulated in
custom locked
cases.
Euro 10,000.
The liturgical references extend to the pipette, allowing the initiated to open up the
‘angel’s share’ - what has been taken by years flavours without dilution – all to be drunk from
of evaporation, or what according to legend a custom designed glass with science and
is the spirit that the devil keeps for himself. craft built in to enhance the nose and amplify
Such an expressive narrative is completed by the flavours”, the team explains. “Also found
a show stopping display. Each Devil’s Keep within the case are whiskey stones which have
comes in custom locked cases, secured by been crafted from obsidian to be used in place
a bespoke brass Japanese style lock. “The of ice to avoid further dilution — as well as an
bottle, created by designer Tiago Russo, is atomiser containing the ‘angel share,’ captured
unchained to unleash The Devil’s Keep taste by expert perfumer Sarah McCartney. Never
experience. Water from the same region the before has anyone attempted to capture the
whiskey was made from is also impeccably unmistakable aroma one gets as they walk
presented in a glass carafe within the case, to through the hallowed halls of a maturing
be applied with precision using a gold-plated whiskey warehouse”.
www.craftirishwhiskey.com
January 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Ring in yellow gold
What does a ‘modern’ family truly look like? The topic has with a marvellous
diamond and
been explored in 2020 in all areas of society (most notably Necklace (featured
in politics, media and fashion). Diversity across gender, alone) in white
age and race is the key concept to guarantee better and yellow gold
representation and bridge gaps between generations with “Rubellite”
tourmalines, blue
and continents. For one, DOLCE & GABBANA’s Alta sapphires and
Moda, Alta Sartoria and Alta Gioielleria presentations diamonds; Alta
have continuously celebrated the “beauty of generational Gioielleria. POA.
diversity” through mixing elegant with fresh silhouettes,
conveying traditional attitudes alongside ground breaking
ones, and tapping into the spontaneity and creativity
unleashed by the use of social media. The online short
movies that the Italian fashion house released late last
year to introduce the latest Alta Moda, Alta Sartoria and
Alta Gioielleria collections are case studies about the
above.
Befittingly, Family Affair was the title of the project. Shot
inside the DOLCE & GABBANA salons in Corso Venezia,
Milan, the movies evoke a family portrait, a juxtaposition
of different generations, who each interpret the Alta
Moda world in their own way; the idea of a cosmopolitan
family, whose members wholeheartedly embrace their Necklace in
yellow and white
individualities and uniqueness. In turn, this has shown gold with fancy
that there are many possibilities in the way one can wear intense yellow and
the Alta Gioielleria (high jewellery). “Look at it!” A young colourless diamonds
curly haired, blue-eyed Adonis opens his shirt to reveal and Earrings in
white gold with
a garland of “Rubellite” tourmalines, blue sapphires and exceptional brown
diamonds; while a ribbon necklace in yellow and white and colourless
gold with fancy intense yellow and colourless diamonds diamonds; Alta
Gioielleria. POA.
work wonders on a young ebony beauty with a pared-
down black bra styling.
www.dolcegabbana.comJanuary 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Tiara in white and pink gold with Stickpin brooch in white gold with
amethysts, tanzanites and diamonds aquamarine, black and colourless
and Necklace in white and pink diamonds; Alta Gioielleria. POA.
gold with amethysts, tanzanites and
diamonds; Alta Gioielleria. POA.
Tiaras are here genderless, colouring Fine Jewellery Necklace with multi-
one’s hair to match one’s jewels is colour gemstones and pearl; Fine
Jewellery Bracelets with multi-
encouraged, opting for drama or colour gemstones and pearl; Ring
simplicity: the choice is yours; mix and in yellow gold with morganites,
match, try it on, adopt it… The sky is tanzanites, peridots,“Rubellite”
the limit and high jewellery turns out to tourmalines and diamonds;
Floral Motifs Necklace in yellow
be at times empowering, beautifying gold with blue zircons, rhodolite
or simply part of oneself. This is a garnet,“Rubellite” tourmalines,
family where jewellery is more than yellow beryls, citrines, aquamarines,
something being passed down from pink, blue and yellow sapphires,
multi-colour tourmalines, diamonds
one generation to the next; it is shared and South Sea pearls; and Silver
in the moment. gold-plated Tiara with multi-colour
tourmalines, citrines, colourless
www.dolcegabbana.com sapphires and topazes;
Alta Gioielleria. POA.January 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Silver gold-plated Crown with multi-colour
tourmalines, citrines and colourless topazes
and “Sicilian cart wheels” Earrings in
yellow gold with blue zircon, “Rubellite”
and pink tourmalines, aquamarine, yellow
chrysoberyl, peridot, orange fire opals,
rubies, yellow sapphires, tanzanites and
emeralds; Alta Gioielleria. POA.
Tiara in white and pink gold with
amethysts, tanzanites and diamonds
and Necklace in white and yellow
gold with tanzanites and diamonds;
Alta Gioielleria. POA.
Ring in white gold with diamonds;
Bracelet in white gold with Paraiba
tourmaline and diamonds; Necklace
in white gold with diamonds and
Tiara in white gold with diamonds;
Alta Gioielleria. POA.
Necklace in yellow and white gold
with diamonds; Ring in yellow and
white gold with diamonds and
Bracelet-timepiece in yellow and
white gold with diamonds;
www.dolcegabbana.com Alta Gioielleria. POA.January 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Hera Bar Cabinet
in black parchment
with red lacquered
feet, bronze inlay and
burnished cast bronze
top. Edition of 6. POA.
Aldus Ombra 1, 2 and
3 hand-blown Murano
glass candle holder
with cast bronze
tealight holder.
Edition of 20. POA.
Italian designer Achille Salvagni knows a thing signature elements such as 24K gold-plated
or two about the “art of unique”. The ACHILLE bronze hinges and door handles are there,
SALVAGNI ATELIER indeed specialises in as well as innovative disruptive qualities
bespoke furniture and home accessories in (asymmetry or the use of empty spaces for
limited edition made out of the finest materials the Indore Cabinet).
and by Rome’s highly skilled artisans – “renow- Colour block and intricate chiselling is the key
ned for their traditional techniques found in the attribute for the Aldus glassware pieces. The
Vatican City and amongst the cabinetmakers of hand-blown Murano glass candle holders in
the Quirinal Palace”. The new collection explores saturated colours project upwards like Olympic
further Salvagni’s knack for sculptural curves torches. A special mention for the alabaster
both in the furniture (new cabinets, lighting and vases, also from the new Aldus collection,
sofa) as well as in the Aldus accessories. There that evoke antique urns that one could well
is hardly any sharp edge in sight. find in a museum, if it were not the Salvagni’s
What impresses most are the voluminous firmly contemporary details (e.g. bead-like
cabinets’ body sometimes perched on fine rock-shaped decoration in gold enamelled
feet, elegant slivers in contrasting colours. This cast bronze for the Aldus EOS Con Collana
is defying the law of physics. For furniture, Sassi vase).
www.achillesalvagni.comJanuary 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Aldus EOS Con Collana Sassi Alabaster
vase with gold enamelled cast bronze
decoration. Limited edition. POA.
Indore Bar Cabinet in
black parchment with red
lacquered feet, bronze inlay
and burnished cast bronze
top. Edition of 6. POA.
Aldus EOS Con Serpenti
Alabaster vase with gold
enamelled cast bronze
decoration. Limited edition.
www.achillesalvagni.com POA.January 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Éclosion de Chaumet
Ring and Earrings, both in
18K yellow gold; Ring set
with a 3.33-carat oval-cut
tsavorite garnet, Paraiba
tourmaline, carnelian,
tsavorite garnets, rubellite,
onyx and brilliant-cut
diamonds; Earrings set
with two oval-cut tsavorite
garnets (approx. 2.50cts),
Paraiba tourmaline, yellow
agate, carnelian, tsavorite Éclosion de Chaumet Butterfly Brooch in 18K yellow
garnets, rubellite, onyx gold set with a 5.30-carat cushion-cut Mandarin
and brilliant-cut diamonds; garnet, yellow and pink sapphires, red spinels, Paraiba
Chaumet in Bloom. POA. and green tourmalines, carnelian, emeralds, tsavorite
garnets, lapis lazuli, rubellite, onyx and brilliant-cut
diamonds; Chaumet in Bloom. POA.
The world of botany has been a key inspiration hues and illuminated with mandarin or tsavorite
for CHAUMET with key collections re-inter- garnets or pink spinels. Sculpted and colourful, it
preting flora, such as Jardins, Bee my Love blossoms on asymmetrical rings, while its petals
and Hortensia. You may also remember the emphasise the curve of the ear”, the team says.
capsule collection of figurative and whimsical A butterfly openwork brooch is in particular a
brooches that celebrated gardening (a water splendid and bold revisiting of a motif present
can, trowel and a scarecrow). Late last year in the Maison’s historic creations.
came an abstract addition to the theme, a two- The use of the Chaumet ranunculus motif
part high jewellery collection under the title, extends to exceptional timepieces (five
Chaumet in bloom. iterations for Éclosion de Chaumet, and
Ranunculus is the new core motif for the two one for Esquisse de Chaumet). “Blooming
chapters, Éclosion de Chaumet and Esquisse up to the bezel, they transform the dials
de Chaumet, and it is seen through the prism of into intensely coloured paintings expressing
the Fauvist masters in terms of strong colours unique virtuosities: hand-painted structural
and free-flowing marquetry of gemstones. “In volume, subtle gold work and grand feu enamel
an ode to radiant femininity, the Éclosion de produced in collaboration with the celebrated
Chaumet ranunculus is enlivened with bright specialist artist Anita Porchet”.
www.chaumet.comJanuary 2021 Notes on an Obsession
Esquisse de Chaumet
Watch in white gold with
Swiss mechanical self-
winding movement, bezel
set with brilliant-cut
diamonds and inlaid with
blue lacquer. Dial in white
mother-of-pearl, adorned
with a blue hand-painted
ranunculus décor. Blue
Esquisse de Chaumet shiny alligator leather strap.
Ring in white gold, set Pin buckle in white gold set
with a Sri Lanka oval-cut with brilliant-cut diamonds;
sapphire of 6.05 carats, Chaumet in Bloom. POA.
paved with onyx, tanzanite
and brilliant-cut diamonds;
Chaumet in Bloom. POA.
Esquisse de Chaumet, the second chapter adopts a different chro-
matic ensemble (blue, white and black) as well as fuller volumes
made out of outlines. Void and fulness, light and shade. The essence
of a drawing is prevalent, the stroke of a brush delineating the
ranunculus skeleton. The various shades of blue (sapphire and
tanzanite) are supported by the white of mother-of-pearl and
enhanced by the black of onyx. As for Éclosion de Chaumet, this
second chapter comes with a timepiece, this time in blue. Each
Esquisse de Chaumet transformable
time, the décor of the dial is a free expression of hand painting with Necklace in 18K white gold set with
multiple layers of colour, the brighter ones instilling some iridescence. a Sri Lanka oval-cut sapphire of 6.13
Testament to Chaumet’s pursuit of perfection, lacquer and/or carats, paved with onyx, tanzanite,
gemstone details adorn the left side of the bezel, as if the flower in mother-of-pearl and brilliant-
cut diamonds. The centrepiece
the centre was seeping out of the dial. A sign of undeniable vitality. is a brooch that can be removed;
Chaumet in Bloom. POA.
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